Chuck changing on Bosch PBD 40 

how many mm is the thread size?

@@bonjob47 Thread size is 1/2"-20, not mm.

Thank you very much for your kind words.

Thank you for your comment. Regarding the extra force, it's nothing compared to what people use when they smash the Allen key with a mallet... I mean, have you seen all the RU-vid videos about how to remove a chuck from a drilling machine? ALL of them I have seen recommends the use of an Allen key and a mallet. That's crazy, because it is simply crazy to hit the Allan key because it will bend or damage the axis. Can't those people think and come up with a better idea? Using a tube extension means less force than using a mallet, and it can't ever hurt the axis.

Thank you very much for your kind words. I am glad that my video helped you (and others) out in this decision. I also understand your joy. Every time I use my machine ever since I made this change it is a joy to use it and the only thing I don't understand is why I did not do it earlier...

Thank you very much for your comment. Yes, your problem was my problem also, and in fact, that was one of the main reasons for me to change the chuck. That locking mechanism is just a joke, I never liked it, and it can actually become quite dangerous. Sadly, the machine is sold with the same chuck even today, but maybe it's been improved. Anyway, after the chuck change, I never had any issues with the chuck releasing a drill bit. It is also easier to handle it.

Thank you for your comment. I am glad I helped you making the decisions, and hope you will be happy with the machine. All I know is that if I had to buy a new one I'd still buy the same machine, but I'd do the same as you, i.e. buy a chuck at the same time and install that on day one.

Thank your for your comment. Actually, mine was so tight that I couldn't use a pipe wrench, unless I'd have used a very large one, which I don't have. So the Allen key with a pipe extension did the trick for me. I have still not changed my bearings, but one of these days will do it...

Do you know a source on how to replace the bearing?

@@JustinShaedo search for SMR128ZZ EZO Stainless Steel Miniature Bearing 8x12x3.5 Shielded, if you were uk based Wychbearing is where I got mine.

Thank you for your comment. I wasn't meant to be humorous, but it's great if you not only found it useful, but also humorous.

I am glad that my video helped you out. I had no idea that the replacement chuck costs more than the Supra S, but it is definitely not worth paying for the original if one has to replace the chuck anyway.

Thank you for the feedback. Yes, it is like day and night. Huge difference, I agree. I see people changing the handle but that does not improve the machine at all, just changes the looks, However changing the chuck is a definite improvement.

@@AdaptingCamera brilliant thank you once again

Thank you for your comment. I bought mine from Amazon.de and the link is only because Amazon is really bad in providing description and their translations are horrible, so I did not want to provide a link to them. Anyway, my next work will be changing all the bearings. I have already ordered them (not from Amazon) and now waiting for delivery. I will also try to eliminate the play caused by bad design of the center column / motor head connection. So... stay tuned... more is coming. I just need some time. :)

​@@AdaptingCamera Hi, great mod! Too bad we need to spend € 60 on a € 300 drill to make it half way decent. Worst part is, looking at prices for the SK E, that's € 60 for us, when it would have been ~€ 5 for Bosch... Did you get around to changing the bearings? How did that turn out and what bearings did you use?

@@paulnieuwkamp8067 I haven't changed the bearings yet. Maybe later on during this summer. I agree that Bosch should have added this chuck, and not the one they have it on the machine. The price difference would have been minimal. Now we have to buy the drill machine and pay for the chuck we don't want to keep and pay for a new and MUCH better chuck, so basically we pay twice the price because of that.

Thank you for your comment.

Thanks.

I bought mine via Amazon.de. I don't know if you can get it directly from Röhm for a better price, but I think not.

Since I’ll have to get it back to Australia, a few euros either way isn’t going to be that big an issue. Röhm’s e-shop has them at €79. Even with shipping, that’s way cheaper than I can buy one in Oz.

@@julianwhitta1114 Well, buying from Germany and shipping to Oz would not be a good idea... :) I am in Sweden, so for me it was good.

I tried that but in my case it was no help. Also, the original chuck is really crap because it has that locking ring, which WILL release the bit now and then. The self locking mechanism is not good enough, and if you look up the chuck, you will see, just as I show you in the video also, that the chuck is made for impact drills, and small hand drills which rotate in both directions, not designed for bench drill machines. So in every aspect, even if you magically can get rid of the runout, the chuck should be replaced with a proper chuck, designed for bench drills. Runout is not everything, there are other aspects of a good chuck also.

@@AdaptingCameraYeah, you’re right that the chuck is bad. Just didn’t feel like spending 70 bucks on a budged drillpress :p But it’s probably worth the money.

Thank you for your comment.

Thank you for the feedback. Yes, it is a fairly simple thing to do and it results in a huge improvement.

I am happy that it helped you out. Good luck.

Thank you very much for your comment.

That's great! Thank you for your kind words.

Thank you very much for your words and good luck with your machine. Yes, unfortunately, it is a common practice to hit the Allen key in the chuck. It's been done for as long as I lived (65 years) but I always thought it was a REALLY poor idea and always avoided doing that. EVERYTHING in the machine gets the hit and may be damaged. Bearings, axle, gears, chuck and even the motor. I don't understand that this is still the recommended way also by some professionals. Also the clockwise / counter clockwise thing is confusing unless it is clearly indicated by a picture or stated if you are facing the axle or looking at it from above, like you normally looking at the chuck of a bench / pillar drill machine.

Also did the bearings. Not a project for the faint-hearted I would say but perfectly possible if you take your time. Take plenty of photos as you go and watch out for the contents of the gearbox falling out onto the bench! Took an hour in total and all was well. Very satisfying to grab the chuck however and feel no movement whatsoever.

@@cmbd9301 Thank you for your comment. Yes, it's a good idea to change the bearings also. I have all the bearings, just need some time so that I can start and finish without anything in between, other than a cup of coffee. While it took an hour for you, I think it will take more than that to me, since I want to take pictures and video and also want to change the large spindle bearing, and that is a bit more work than the small ones. I also don't want to brick my machine, so I am not a time optimist.

I am glad you fixed it.

Right. I don't understand why hitting the allen key with a mallet is more or less a standard procedure. It results in a HUGE and totally uncontrollable force on the chuck and the whole machine, so I don't understand why people prefer doing that instead of a better controllable method. When hitting the allen key, you not only risk damaging the chuck, but also the spindle or the gear box and can in the end brick the machine. So in my opinion, that's a brutally dumb way of removing the chuck from any drill machine.

Thank you. I will definitely do it, but right now I can't since I don't have time. I have all the bearings needed, and know it is easy to disassemble, have done it before. Nevertheless, if I open it, I change all the bearings, or at least it is planned that I will do it that way.

Thank you for your comment. I hope everything went well and you have a bran new machine, which this one becomes of after a chuck change.

But you don't really know how much improvement the chuck change would have made if you only did that, because you started with the bearings. Anyway, yes, changing the bearings definitely is needed also, and I plan to do it one of these days also, but I need my machine because I use it almost every day. Also, chuck changing is not just about tolerances, it's also about NEVER dropping a drill mid work unintentionally, and is also about comfort. The original chuck is for impact drills and hand drills which can rotate both left and right. The three ring design is stupid and difficult to tighten. The new chuck is in a completely different league all together, so for me, even if the tolerance and play would be the same as before, I'd still be happy with my decision of changing the chuck.

Thank you for your comment. I appreciate it.

Thank you very much for your comment.

Thank you for your comment. I am glad you found my video helpful.

Well, I disagree. Even after spending more that that I still think it's a good machine and would buy another one today if the one I have would break down and would not be possible to repair, but of course it's a shame that Bosch delivers this machine with such a crappy chuck, which is not even made for bench drill machines, but hand impact drills.

Thank you for the comment. I am happy that you found it useful.

Thank you for the comment. The link is updated now. Rohm have changed something on their site since the structure and the links are different now. Amazon is a bit of a lottery, not always easy to find a good deal. I bought SKF bearings but have not had time to replace the bearings in my machine yet, the work is still on my "to do" list.

Thank you. So basically, it is half the run out compared to the original. What we don't know is how it would be if you'd have used better quality pin bearings of the same dimension. Anyway, I still think that most of the run out comes from the spindle bearings above the chuck. If I get on with this work I will change all bearings. Was it easy to remove the pin bearing? What tool did you use? Bread...? 😀

@@AdaptingCamera When I look at your video I see that your indicator arm is not parallel with the drill. A 45 degree angle implies a lot of cosine error. The indicator may allow the arm to be angled but it should imho be parallel with the measured object. Am I wrong? Compare to my setup. I described most of the bearing change in an earlier comment here, and gave a link to some pictures I shot during the operation. I made a bearing extraction tool from a 100 mm M8 screw with hex head. I began by splitting the screw a few centimeters from the head and upwards to the threaded part with a saw. Then I squeezed the halves together and machined the hex part to 8 mm diameter, and removed material at the end, so I got a sharp edge around the perimeter. Think of a very short head of a countersunk screw. When the compression over the head is released the two halves separates. Next I made a shim of aluminum. The shim should be as thick as the saw blade and fit into the saw slit. To remove the bearing, squeeze the halves of the tool together and insert it through the bearing. If properly done, the hook part is exactly 8 mm wide, and it is perfectly round when compressed! (That's why it should be split first and machined to 8 mm diameter afterwards.) Release the pressure and insert the shim. I used no force at all to do that. It is not much to grip on since the little space under the bearing is occupied by a bearing washer of the same inner diameter as the bearing housing. I guess my tool slipped upwards a bit until it stopped against the needles. The other part of the screw has threads so it is straightforward to make an arrangement with some clamping and nuts to get leverage on the bearing. All this is made easier if the motor is detached from the gear box housing. But don't remove the motor until the whole package is lifted off from the machine. When you have the bearing in your hand, you have earned a cup of tea! Sorry about this long description, I just recalled that RU-vid is for videos, not long text reports.

@@paullehmor982 Don't worry about the length of your message. This is my video and I have the power to do anything I want with it, if it would disturb me I'd delete it. Instead I say thank you for taking the time in typing that detailed explanation. Written instructions are easier (for me) to remember than to watch a video and remember what I have seen. Maybe it's the age. I am a "reading generation" guy, video for me is mostly for entertainment and for getting /sharing ideas. Anyway, regarding the angle I measure vs. you measure, I don't think it matters but I can be wrong. Maybe next time, I'll check both ways and see if it makes any difference. In any case, what I think is important is the relative change, not that it is measured exactly, and since we measure both before and after the same way (you do it your way, I do it my way), any error in the measuring method is removed. We simply compare and can see that the improvement is obvious and the run out is about half compared to "before" in your case with the bearing change, and more than 3 times in my case after the chuck change. The 0.07 mm my indicator shows after the chuck change may turn out to be 0.1 mm using your indicator and your measuring angle, but it doesn't matter to me, since in that case even the original 0.23 mm run out error I am measuring before the change should equally be more, so my improvement should still be 3 times or more.

Yes, I have considered changing all of the bearings and have in fact bought all the necessary ones but had no time to do the job yet, but it is definitely on my list. One problem is that I need the machine quite often, so once started with changing bearings I must finish fast. I also understand that changing some of them might cause some headache, so I want to make sure I have a time slot to do it properly without stress. Anyway, I considered that changing the chuck was the most important thing to do, and yes, it is a huge improvement.

@@AdaptingCamera I wouldn't bother to change the bearings for the internal gear axle or the motor. The most important ones are the two on the main spindle. The needle bearings sit on top of a bearing washer with the same inner diameter as the bearing itself. There is not much to grip on other than the needles. If you have a dedicated hardened tool it should not be a big deal. Be aware there are some delicate electronics and wirings. Thin wires go to the lasers, the rpm sensor, the light diodes and the drill depth meter. There are four micro connectors to pull out from a circuit board in the front panel. I would suggest to secure the front panel to the left side with gaffa, as a temporary swivel. Then loosen the power cords and the four cords connected to the motor. There is also a small piece of circuit board on top of the motor that has to be pulled upwards. Now the front panel is ready to be removed. The left panel can be left hanging in the mains cord. It is convenient to keep everything on the column as long as possible. Don't forget to calibrate the lasers before you close the case! I shot some pictures during the dismounting procedure. Annotations are in Swedish though, sorry. You can translate with google, or feel free to ask for explanations. www.dropbox.com/sh/et2gtlu8cpgxljy/AAAFfRcwpKyM1Mc_LRLSGp7Ea?dl=0 I am not sure the two ball bearings I used to replace the needle bearing are optimal. Maybe a bronze bushing would be more appropriate? A Russian guy here seems to have come to that conclusion.

@@AdaptingCamera Hello, today I measured the run out in the old chuck with both a DTI and an ordinary dial gauge. I used the 10 mm stem of a new edge finder and, for comparison, also a 6 mm cutter. In no case did the run out exceeded +/- 0.05 mm. Unfortunately I did not measure before the replacement of the upper needle spindle bearing last week. I'm sure a forthcoming change of the chuck will bring down the run out to maybe just +/- 0.01 mm. The stock chuck really sucks. Sometimes it even drop my tools. New chuck next!

@@paullehmor982 Hi, so you mean you changed the needle bearings and now your runout is better than +/- 0.05 mm? Because if that's the case then I think that's excellent. I agree about the original chuck, one of my problems was also that it did NOT held the drills firm enough, at least not all the time. After changing, the new chuck is easier to tighten and it NEVER let the drill fall out or the spindle spin without gripping the drill. I am very happy with the PBD 40 now, that's for sure.

@@AdaptingCamera Yes, I changed the bearings as described above. The runout is +/- 0.05, no less, no more. I'm thrilled as to what a new chuck will do! It seems we have the same experience with the stock chuck. The grip is completely unpredictable. I would say it can be a safety risk to use it. Well, these two improvements are easy. The lack of quill is a major one which I don't know how to address. The whole assembly is guided by a rod running through a bushing. It is reasonably secured if the big red handle is tighten very firmly. But on my machine it is not consistent. It seems a little more stable when I lower the unit with the wheel. In my opinion, this is a main construction error. I don't really know what to do about it. Do you have any ideas?

To be honest, "for the price" it is an excellent machine in my opinion already without any change. Changing the chuck is very easy, it can be done by almost anyone. Too bad Bosch did not mention that in the manual and also not very supportive about it. Changing the bearings is a different thing. It needs more skills and should only be done by people, unless they are professional, who are ready to brick the machine if the change fails. Also, I think the biggest issue is not the bearings in the gear box, but the two on the spindle. Those are the ones causing the spindle wobble, not the ones in the gear box. Anyway, I plan to change tall bearings but have had no time to do it.

@@AdaptingCamera The spindle bearings. Ok, I see. Yeah, I'm not planning to dismantle the whole thing, but if some bearings helps and it's easy to do, then it could be an option.

@@gsolas I can't say how easy it is to replace those because I have not done it yet, but it should be easier than the pin needle bearings. Never the less, in both cases you must dismantle the drill head. Bearing replacement is never easy.

Yes, it's a good idea to change all the bearings. I also have a set of bearings and will change them one of these days.

I don't know where you looked, but it's hardly what I call "sky rocketed"... Easy to find for around 110 USD on Amazon. Röhm original was always a bit higher priced than cheap Chinese knock off.

Welcome to Australia. It's about $300aud for me.@@AdaptingCamera

It depends what you compare with and what you expect to get for the same money. I think that the PBD 40 is in many ways better than most cheap drill presses, even regarding the wobble. I do not regret buying this machine.

The thread is 1/2" 20 UNF. It is NOT mm thread, it means the diameter is 1/2" and the the thread pitch is 20, meaning there are 20 threads for each inch length. 871046 has a B12 mount, it is not a 1/2" 20, as you can see in the table here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nCqVoaGVK8g.html 871039 fits also, but the chuck is for smaller drill bits, from 0.5mm to maximum 10mm diameter. I need the maximum 13mm and never drill less than 1mm on this machine, so for me the the 871050 was the best alternative. The original chuck had a span of 1.5-13mm, so my new one has a bigger span anyway.

Thank you for your comment. I am glad you found my video useful and hope you have managed to change your chuck.

@@AdaptingCamera No, it did not work. I did not succeed in loosening the old drill chuck.

@@volkerweber1063 Did you try the same way I show it in the video? I mean, it feels a bit scary to use a long pipe and having to push it with such force, but in the end, mine did release with a huge bang. The "bang" is not in my video because I did that before I made the video. Anyway, if you try again you must be careful and must make sure that the Allan key is inserted and tightened properly. Some people managed to insert it wrong and after tightening, had problems with removing the Allen key again.

Thanks. Yes, it is the 871050 and I don't understand why the link is dead. Maybe they stopped making it with that number.

@@AdaptingCamera Seems more like it's some sort of page update where they didn't migrate the links. I bought that same model from them just this week and installed it a few minutes ago. That first chuck is stuck on there really tight, but the 'handle' tricked work (eventually). No loud bang, but a lot of sweat! Thanks for the video. Really appreciated!

@@Drokkstar_ Good news. Thank you for your comment. I am glad it helped you out.

Thank you for your comment.

@@AdaptingCamera 🤗

You are welcome. I hope it is helpful.

I don´t understand how you managed to destroy the chuck. You must always check that the Allen key is properly tightened and NEVER use a hammer or anything that you hit it with. Many video on RU-vid shows chuck removal totally wrong. Hitting the Allen key might cause damage to the chuck. Also, one can also use a chuck removal tool, which actually fits in the two upper wholes of the chuck and use that, not the Allen key, but most people don't have such tool. The method with the Allen key is safe, but as always, you must know what you are doing BEFORE. Attacking the chuck the wrong way may of course cause damage.

@@AdaptingCamera Because allen key is not enaugh tight in this quick chuck ,this is the reason.

@@alexandrubogdanjacob In this respect, this chuck is not different from any other chuck. It is possible to tighten it enough and safely remove the chuck, but you must do it properly AND the Allen key must be large enough AND as I said, NEVER use a hammer. Tightening it like a drill bit and using brute force and hammer can destroy any chuck. I am pretty sure that this was the reason you destroyed your chuck. Your Allen key was not tightened (you did not check it in time) and you used brute force. How to tighten the chuck with difficult bits is described in the manual of PBD40. It is NOT my fault if you did not read it and started to remove the chuck without checking that it has a good grip on the Allen key. It is also possible that there was something wrong with your chuck already before. Anyway, saving the old chuck was not my goal, so even if I'd have destroyed mine I would not cry over it, since it is really crap. I would definitely not sell it or replace any of my other chuck with that one. It's the worst I have ever seen on any machines I ever had.

I also had issue with presented method. in my case, 12 hex+pipe, the lock mechanism yielded and chuck started turning on it's own, rattling. I ended up grinding two parallel planes on the metal part to have better grip with a french+pipe extension and that finally did it. Also exchanged both bearings of the chuck shaft. Used a concrete anchor to extract the little one. Result? Zero play to naked eye 😁👍 And just in case - NO. HAMMER. WAS. USED. i should know - i was there 😑

I just measure rounout after some drilling and still 0.07. Chuck on my Bosch PBD 40 is Röhme Supra-SK E from factory.

You are lucky. If mine was easy to remove I would have done that day one after opening the box. Though, I don't understand how can get worse runout when you tighten yours. Something must be wrong. Maybe your drills are crap, maybe your chuck is wrongly assembled. You should claim warranty because it is not normal, not even for really low end drill machines.

@@AdaptingCamera I think it might be due to the one of the mating surfaces on either the chuck or the spindle not being perfectly perpendicular to the thread. That way, when the tread is tightened, the misalignment will get worse. If i only tighten it by hand, there is almost no wobble at the tip of the drill bit. Remember, i am talking about tightening the chuck to the spindle, not the drill bit to the chuck. If it is the mating surface on the spindle though, it will not help changing the chuck. Unfortunately I have no way of checking it, as my dial gauge is not "petite" enough to get close enough to the tread to be able to make a reading all the way round. I would need a lever type dial gauge for that. And the one I would like to have (Mitutoyo) is more than $200. It is a bit like a bench grinder. If the spindle's mating surface is out of allignment, no amount of dressing the stone will make the vibrations go away, because the stone wobbles sideways.

@@HepauDK OK, thanks. It sounds still very strange and if you are right plus the fact that your chuck was not glued, then my guess is that this should be a manufacturing problem with your machine, so it should definitely be returned and you should claim warranty service, which in this case means replacement of the whole machine head.

@@AdaptingCamera I want a different chuck no matter what, the original just isn't meant for drill presses. But if that doesn't solve the problem, I will deffinitely return it.

Update: I just got a Röhm Supra L in the mail, and what a difference! I haven't checked the runout yet, but the tip of the Bosch forstner bit I tested it with was dead center. "Much improvement, so wow!". :) Best part is that I bought it as a Wolfcraft part at about 2/5 of what I would have paid for a Supra S. :D Had to wait for it to get shipped from France to Denmark, but well worth the wait.

To be fair, I don't understand why you want to go to lower RPM than the low gear allows you to. What you want to do is illogical. When you are drilling with small drill bits, you actually want high RPM, otherwise you will break the drill bit. The friction will also generate far too much heat, so you'll make it into a dull drill in no time. What you are saying makes no sense to my ears. I drill a lot of very small holes in metal and those require high RPM. Actually, most of the time, drilling in plastics means lower RPM than in metal, but of course, that depends on the plastic and the drill bit you are using. Large drill bits require slower RPM, but never slower than than this machine can deliver. Anyway, I would not modify the machine regarding the RPM, but there is a gear box, so if you want to, and can find, or make the right gear combination then it may be possible. Anyway, the general rule of thumb is: small drill => high RPM, large drill => low RPM regardless of material. Otherwise you will burn the material or the drill, or both.

@@AdaptingCamera unfortunately i cannot remember the precise reason for this. however it was something recently featured by ox tools, within a monday night meatloaf episode. tom lipton was fingering through some really old machinists book and was explaining that while this is something that is completely counter intuitive, smaller drill bits can in fact require a slower cutting speed. maybe it had something to do with the material depth on thicker materials. but i really cannot remember now. tried looking for it but unfortunately i have this stupid bug in by we browser. and his meatloaf videos are not indexed or time stamped. and i simply cannot remember which episode. but it must have been one of the last 3, so maybe 141, 140 or 139. this guy is a well respected long time professional and very dedicated machinist and so i am sure you would find his advice of relevance, and of value. so i dont think your time would be wasted to find out here and yes, they do noodle a lot more so there is then a compromise or a limitation in how slow you can actually go down to. but i have now tried it myself (just with a hand power drill, going into steel). and it actually works!! (believe it or not) so will try to download those episodes and then get a better reference for you to watch... it just take some more time

@@dreamcat4 OK thanks, but I don't know who he is or what a "Monday night meat loaf" is. Anyway, if you believe him and believe that the whole world is wrong and he is right than that's fine for me. I will continue drilling as I learned and have been doing it for many years. One thing which is very important is that you are using the right drill bits for the material. Many people ignore this and just buy any cheap crappy "universal" drill bits and use that on everything and then complain about the machine they are using... :)

I am sorry for the problem you experience. Maybe the locking mechanism is not really broken, so try rotating the Allen key slightly so that all three jaws get a good grip of the Allen key surfaces and then try to lock it again. If it clicks then you are good, but if not then your only option is to use some sort of special tool made for chuck removal. There are two holes on the top of the chuck, above the red locking ring, so if you insert two pins into those then you should be able to twist and remove the chuck. If that doesn't help then you could get an adjustable pipe wrench with rounded jaws, put some soft metal (aluminium or cuper) sheets between the jaws and the chuck and lock it on the top ring, above the red locking ring. That should definitely do the job. Just be careful, the chuck gets easily damaged if you are not using some soft metal sheets between the wrench and the chuck. At the same time, you must tighten it hard enough so that the wrench is not slipping. Good luck, I hope you will be able the remove the chuck, especially if the locking mechanism is really broken.

I use mine mainly for drilling in aluminium, but how precise you are drilling depends not only on the machine, but also how well you marked the holes and how good your drills are, as well as how you actually do the work, i.e. your skills. I use it also for the type of job you want to use it for, but on the other hand, I could use a manual, hand drill for that purpose also. Drilling holes for potentiometers does not require extreme precision, so yes, this machine is more than good enough for that purpose, at least when I am using it.

I didn't look at the Spiro series, but you are wrong regarding the new chuck I installed. It is better than the original for several reasons, one is that it has less runout even according the specs, the other is that it is MADE for pillar drill, unlike the original one which is made for hand drill, the third is that it can take smaller drill bits, the fourth is that it does NOT have that stupid extra ring for locking, the fifth is that the original one some times releases the drill bit because the locking ring is not always locking tight enough and the self locking mechanism is a joke... I can go on an on about the differences, but if you don't care, that's fine. You probably don't have the machine and never handled that chuck, otherwise you would know all that.

Sorry, I don't remember. It was the largest I could find around me.

You really need the largest you can fit in the chuck….it’s simply used as a lever to unscrew the chuck against the 16mm spanner fitted to the spindle…put the short end in the jaws and tighten the jaws to grip it.. You need a largish one or you are likely to bend it, as it initially needs some brute force and an extension tube to move it….it’s quite tight…

Yes, it's possible.

Thank you for the comment. I didn't change the bearings yet because it's more work than I have time for. Maybe one day I will. I am sure it improves the machine even more, especially in my case, since my machine is old and well used.

@@AdaptingCamera yes that's why I wonder, it's a lot of work and a bit risky that's why I wonder if the chuck is enough

@@quentinschreiber7926 I really can't say if it's enough for you or not, only that it's enough for me for now. It improved my machine a lot, but I one day I will definitely replace the bearings also. I have all the bearings needed, just have to do the work.

Actually, it makes no difference for that instrument. It shows the to and from direction of the movement. If the dial would be facing vertical it would still be the same to and from movement. Anyway, the most important for me is not to quantify the measurement precision, but to see the difference of before and after, which can be seen at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nCqVoaGVK8g.html and as long as the setup is the same, the difference is clearly visible.

I don't understand how your drill bits can get stuck in the chuck. I mean, are you sure you insert them right, in the center and not offset so they get stuck between two chuck jaws??? That's the only time I ever had drill bits getting stuck, but even those times I managed to remove using hand force. Using a wrench should be avoided because it can damage the chuck. Anyway, the best way to avoid that is to close the chuck as much as possible before inserting the drill bit, and while inserting, "playing" with the drill bit, pushing in and pulling out lightly to feel that it is in the middle. This is what I do with small drill bits. Larger ones are easier to place in the center. Anyway, it seems that your issue is not related to the drimm machine, since that can happen with any drill machine and any chuck.

@@AdaptingCamera it's probably my fault, but I'm also using it on metal, in particular hard stainless steel, probably i broke it with the step drill, it was very intense, now it's also difficult with M10 bit... but otherwise ok with smaller bits... I thought it was also due to the automatic retightening which I appreciate in fact. I prefer to use a wrench than not having a retightening effect. Is there any way to correct that, using WD40 or so ?

I am sorry you have problems removing the chuck. If I had problems I'd make a special tool, similar to an oil filter remover tool for cars, but would make one more rigid and with two pins which would fit into the two holes on the top par of the chuck.

@@AdaptingCamera so it turns out I did undo it. I turn around the chuck et voilà. So it's not that obvious when it's undone with the spanner. Thanks

I don't know who say such stupid thing. It's not a pillar drill, it's a bench drill, so if you want perfectly drilled holes you must think about that, but there is no way you can drill anything other than 90° holes unless you tilt the head or the fot. The column is not weak, it's very stable and rigid, but for best results you should fix it to a sturdy bench. Mine is bolted and is drilling very precise holes. You can't get a better machine for 330€, that's for sure. If mine would die today I'd buy a new one to replace it with. You can buy a lot cheaper machines, but those are definitely not better or equal.

@@AdaptingCamera Thanks for this clarification.

The drill bit does not have that huge runout. It would be totally useless with that much runout. Also, the same drill bit is used on both chucks, and after the change the runout is dramatically reduced. The reduction is a fact, it has nothing to do with the drill bit since the same one is used in both cases.

Thank you for your comment. I am glad you found my video useful.

Sorry, I have no idea. Any chuck with 1/2" - 20 works, but I have no idea which is good and which is not.

I think you are wrong. I have no problems with quality keyless chucks at all. But sure, if you are using cheap crappy ones then keyless is not as good in gripping as a cheap and crappy keyed chuck. Nevertheless, the keyless chuck of the PBD 40 is really bad, not even designed for bench drill machines. Replacing that with keyed chuck is also better than not replacing it at all.

You are comparing apples and oranges. The Woodpecker Auto-Line Drill Guide is a toy and the Makita LXT, while it may be a very good cordless drill, it is still, "just another cordless drill", cheap, impact drill with low RPM. Impact drills are NEVER comparable with any bench drills, and I bet you will have a lot of play in that chuck and axis. But of course, if all you do is drilling a few holes in wood and never need to work with metal, it may be good enough for you, but you can't really believe that the weak 350W motor outperforms the PBD 40, which has a 710W motor, with constant speed and torque electronic, which actually works very well. The Woodpecker Auto-Line Drill Guide is nowhere near making your cordless drill into a bench machine, it is intended for other type of use. If you buy a cheap knock off, you will get something even worse. All in all, even right out of the box, the PBD 40 beats your alternative hands down, that I am very sure of. I also had your idea and actually bought this: www.wolfcraft.com/products/wolfcraft/en/EUR/Products/Attachments-for-Machines/Drill-Stands/Drill-Stand/p/P_5027 which is very good and useful, but still, NOWHERE near the usability of PBD 40, even though I have a very high quality hand drill, powerful and is not cordless. Yes, the PBD 40 is noisy, but otherwise, even out of the box is very good and useful, well worth it's price.

Thanks for the comment. I am glad that my video helped you out. The B16 is indeed better, but it does not fit because it is a B16. The Bosch PBD 40 has a threaded motor axis, so it needs the threaded chuck. The threaded chucks are normally worse than the B12, B16 and B18 types, which have conic fits, no threads. I am no expert, but the reason must be the fact that every kind of thread must have some play, otherwise we would not be able to twist them on/off. This play causes some extra concentricity error. Anyway, the 871050 is miles better than the Supra SK E, even if the data sheet says only 0.1mm better concentricity, in reality the difference is huge and feels immediately after the first drill.

@@AdaptingCamera In all honesty, that's the most useful piece of advice I've received from a comment here on YT. So I will go with the 871050 :-) Thank you!

@@photobastlmichael9810 Thank you very much. I really appreciate it.

Good question. I will measure it as soon as I have time, but currently, my way of "measuring" is simple. I use this machine mostly on metal, so now and then I measure the hole diameters. Just yesterday I needed some precise 5mm and 10mm holes, so I measured those, and they were all very precise, right size all of them. That was never the case with the original chuck, so I guess that the run-out is still very good. I still have to change the bearings, just need to find the time to do it.

I am sorry you found it confusing, though watching it one more time, to me it still seems clear, since I do it slowly in the video and also unscrewing the chuck. Also, unscrewing is always done in the same direction the motor is rotating normally. Otherwise the chuck would unscrew itself during normal use. I find that using the terms "clockwise or anticlockwise" can be confusing unless you know which way you looking at it. Just watch the video again between ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nCqVoaGVK8g.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nCqVoaGVK8g.html where I remove the chuck and then between ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nCqVoaGVK8g.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nCqVoaGVK8g.html where I screw on the new one. You unscrew the chuck through turning it into the same direction as the motor normally is rotating and screw on the new through turning it into the opposite direction.

@@AdaptingCamera thanks.. Your video was clear but with that weird style chuck and you saying it needed a lot to remove it first time... Just want to be sure.. Appreciate your reply.. Now time to order the chuck.. 😊

@@newbeginnings8566 The weird chuck is designed for impact hand drill, which is why they felt necessary to have the locking ring. I agree it is weird and feels really awkward to use it on a pillar drill. Also, the locking ring actually makes it difficult to tighten, which resulted in several incidents with my machine. No accidents, but incidents where the drill actually came lose halfway in the material I was drilling. So it is definitely advisable to change the chuck, because incidents like those can end up in accidents also.

@@AdaptingCamera Just wanted to say my chuck change went well.. I had a T handle Allen key set and I was able to release the Bosch chuck without need of a cheater bar.. In fact it all went well and a medium snug up tighten for the replacement Supra S chuck and it was complete.. Next plan is to fit a custom bolt on handle to the wheel as that wheel is a bit awkward.. Of course these two custom add- ons have increased the original price by 100€. ( I paid 225€ at Amazon for the drill - they have 25€ at the moment)... So 325€ but a much better tool now.. I found the motor very smelly from new.. The laser point was spot-on.. Depth control and general control all fine.. Registration on Bosch website for the 3 year warranty.. Anyway best regards and I hope Christmas 🎅 brings you some new workshop toys.. 😉

Please watch the video. I think I am very very clear in it about which chuck to buy and why. Only one of the 1-13 fits this machine.

Thank you for your comments. No, I did not consider that one because I could not find anyone selling it. Looking at the specs, I don't think the differences in concentricity (0.05mm) would be noticeable on this machine.

@@AdaptingCamera OK....I've just now checked the Röhm catalogue more closely and by the looks of it, the "I" version wouldn't fit anyway, as it's not manufactured in a 1/2" 20 mount (!!)

@@Lignumopus Actually, according to this document: eshop.roehm.biz/media/attachment/file/d/c/dc0001470.pdf it does exist, but may be hard to find, depending on where you live. It has item number: 871055 in the document.

I am sorry, I am not a chuck expert. Also, this machine is not suitable for tapping. It is a bench drill machine, not a mill, so reversing and running it slow enough for tapping is not possible.

There is a slight wobble, but it never prevented me from drilling accurate holes.

@@AdaptingCamera I actually saw (after I wrote my previous comment) that you mentioned this issue as well in the conversation below. Interesting that it doesn't affect drilling. Feels like one might tend to pull it to the side when drilling. Also, did you ever change the needle-bearing?

@@JWAM If you start drilling at a precise spot then as soon as you have started there will be a guide for the drill bit, so it stays there. The drill head is not wobbling during the actual drilling, only when in the air and only when pushed. There is no uncontrolled vibration, which would create too large holes or breaking the bit. Anyway, it's on my "to do" list, but have no time, and since it is no big issue, the priority is set accordingly. BTW, you asked about the needle bearing, and the answer is the same. Not been changed due to the fact that it takes time and during that time I can't use the machine, and I also don't see that it causes such issue that I can motivate spending time on it. But one of these days...

@@AdaptingCamera I will post a link here and the message in the next, in case this gets censored. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HguFMdCACJc.html

@@AdaptingCamera If you didn't receive my message with the link, please check your spam-filtered messages in the RU-vid menu. Look at 2:58 and the obvious wobble of the whole head. The bigger the forstner-bit or hole-saw, the bigger the problem, I guess. Thanks for the update on the bearings. I think I'll change the chuck and try to reduce the play (a simple shim somewhere?) and see if it feels sturdy enough.

Yes, I think you are clear, but I can hardly imagine that the actual change of chuck caused the issue. However, you could open the side of the machine and check is the slider attachment or the other part is a bit lose. Maybe one or two screws need to be tightened inside the machine which causes your problem.

@@AdaptingCamera thanks, I agree with you. I’ll open it and check it inside

@@polochevs Good luck. I hope you will fix it.

Well, what is there to confirm? It's in the video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nCqVoaGVK8g.html and it fits my machine. I think it even says in the manual, but not sure. It definitely shows on the original chuck, so you can check on your machine to confirm for yourself, but so far you are the first of 15 700 global viewers doubting this information. In fact, it is VERY common and I don't think Röhm actually has any metric threads at all even though Röhm is originally from Germany as far as I know. Anyway, very few machines use metric threads on chuck. I even have another, Made in West Germany (yes, it's that old) drill machine which also has 1/2-20 chuck, so it is not exactly strange at all in Europe that in some areas imperial units are used, for example aviation, carpentry, different machines... you name it.

Thanks Ar M this is the critical information I needed

1/2” x 20, and 3/8” x 20 UNF are the standard size threads for drill chucks….there are loads that will fit…Jacobs, Rohm etc…

That would be to logical!

Dude, Röwe lists their chucks at 8K! LOL

I don't know what you mean by no longer available... I mean, it's made and is definitely available but perhaps not in the shop you wanted to buy it from. You can buy it from here: eshop247.roehm.biz/DE-en/supra-s-264.html Sorry you ordered the wrong one, try to return it because you have no use for that one. When you order you must type the right part number. Only the ones with 1/2"-20 mount fit this machine, and the one I am using is the 871050. That is very important when you buy the chuck.

@@AdaptingCamera thank you for responding to my comment. I think being sent the non-threaded version bearing the model no. 871050 didn’t help and suggested the correct chuck in your video was not available now. I spoke to RÖHM and they confirmed 871050 to be the threaded one as you state. Quite why the one I bought from V-TOOLSTORE in Germany isn’t the threaded one albeit bearing the same model number confused the guy at RÖHM so not sure what’s going on at V-TOOLSTORE 🤷🏼‍♂️. But I was advised by RÖHM in U.K. to contact a U.K. company called Cromwell to buy the correct one and it’s being delivered Monday. The non-compliant one will go back to Germany for a refund. Thanks for a great video and your help towards me sorting it out. 👍🏻

@@TonyGator78 If they sent you the wrong chuck they should exchange it for free. The Röhm product numbers are different and unique. The 871050 is the only one with that number and that is threaded. If that shop told you otherwise then they are lying.

@@AdaptingCamera I asked them if they could get the version with a threaded back end but after saying today that they cannot they agreed to a refund. I have contacted RÖHM at their U.K. distribution centre and while they cannot sell me the correct one they told me who could and I ordered it today. So hopefully I will get it on Monday and the refund will pay for it. 👍🏻

Thank you for your comment.

Thank you for your comment. It is difficult to answer your question without exactly knowing the problem or having seen the results. "Not drilling straight" means for me that the drilled hole is not 90° to the table surface. In that case I think it is your table attachment not properly installed and aligned to the drill head, or the column holding the drill head is not squared properly to the surface. You should start by checking the alignments and square the machine properly. Buying a new chuck would improve handling and the chuck wobble. I don't know if it would fix your problem, since I don't know what exactly means "not drilling straight".

Thank you for your reply and your responsiveness. You are right, the expression "straight drilling" is a bit vague and I apologise for that. I meant drilling at 90°. My table is orthogonal to the drilling axis. What I have noticed is that there is almost always a deviation of the drill bit between the entry point and the exit point. Hence my question about a possible cause due to the concentricity problem, which would make the drill deviate under the cutting force. Take care of yourself and your family.

@@marcciesla9238 Thank you for clarifying that. Anyway, I am by no means an expert, but it's a rotating tool, so the way I see it, it can't make holes which are not aligned with the motor spindle axis. So the only way I can think of making holes which are not 90° compared to the material surface is if the measured surface is actually not parallel to the table, or the column is not 90° to the table in every direction. Even if the machine head is not aligned to the column, the hole should still be aligned after drilling, but would be bigger than the actual drill. This is also the case if you have concentricity issues. Concentricity problems means the drill is not in the exact centre of the rotation, so it is not concentric. That means that the hole it is drilling will be bigger than the actual diameter of the drill. The chuck I have now has a better concentricity than the original chuck had, so now I can drill smaller holes without breaking the drill bit, and of course, I can now drill holes which have the diameter of the drill bit, so now I have higher accuracy.

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply to my last comment. Your analysis is good. It is now up to me and my PDB40 to improve on this... Lol Greetings from France

Hi, I think I used a 10 mm (220 mm long) Allen key plus the tube to extend it. The trick to tighten the Allen key in the chuck is that the jaws must be parallel to the key sides. Be careful, if the Allen key is incorrectly inserted and tightened, you may never be able to release it again. It is important that the chuck gets a good grip on the Allen key sides, otherwise it may get stuck when you twist it. Good luck, I hope you manage to remove it. Mine was also very difficult to remove the first time, maybe they glued the threads, or maybe it was because I have used the machine for several years before removing the chuck, or maybe the original chuck was installed by a huge alpha male with too much muscles and too little brains... 😂

Hi Eamonn, Yes, to unscrew you rotate the chuck in clockwise direction seen from above. Your chuck may feel totally non-removable, but don't worry, you can do it if you do it right. Probably you need a piece of pipe also, just like I did. Mine was VERY hard to remove when I did it for the first time, and I mean REALLY VERY HARD, so I definitely couldn't have done it without the pipe and without actually fixing the axis with the help of the16mm spanner. Follow every advise on how to remove it, starting here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nCqVoaGVK8g.html and you should be fine. Whatever you do, don't use a hammer because it will damage your motor axis and the chuck you are trying to remove. The Allen key should be a large one, as large as you can find, the larger the better because it makes it easier to remove the chuck. Make sure you are buying the right replacement chuck with 1/2"-20 thread, not B16.

@@AdaptingCamera Many thanks - I'll give it a go!

Success - I may have a few burst blood vessels but the chuck is off! :) Thanks again.

@@eamonnmcgreevy6665 Great news! So yours was just as difficult as mine to remove... Good luck with the replacement. My PBD 40 is like night and day. It is really a joy using it now. I don't understand why Bosch selected that chuck at all. It is for hand drill machines and impact drills, not for bench and pillar drill machines, and actually the price of both chuck types are about the same, at least if I compare Amazon prices. BTW, I did not use any super glue on the new chuck. The machine rotates in one direction and is tightening the chuck on the axis during the rotation, so there is no need for super glue.

@@AdaptingCamera Yes, tough to remove, I was about to give in but give it one final squeeze and it relented with a crack, not quite an explosion. Quick question though... I want to now sell the original chuck on eBay and need the exact item no. Is it 1193005: eshop.roehm.biz/roehm_de_en/1193005.html ?

I like keyless chuck solution more, so I never tried any other.

@@AdaptingCamera This chuck is 1/2 the cost of the drill press here in New Zealand. I paid $400 NZD for the Drill ( on sale ) the chuck is listed at $230 NZD. Its quite a cost.