Gökmen Bey çok teşekkür ediyorum, evdeki çıkma tahtalar ile aynısını yapmaya çalıştım, gönyesi tam oldu, uzun zamandan beri daire destelemiş istediğim gibi kullanamıyordum, şimdi en azından diğer projelerinizi uygulama fırsatım olacak, yaparken makinamın büyüklüğü dolayısıyla ebatlarda biraz oynamak zorunda kaldım. Şimdiki hedefim plywood tedarik ederek daha sağlam ve biraz daha büyüğünü yapmak ve ardından matkap sehpası projenizi hayata geçirmek. Tekrar teşekkür ederim, emeğinize sağlık
Ich könnte Ihnen den ganzen Tag zuschauen. Sie sind ein begnadetes Genie mit magischen Händen 😉! Ich danke Ihnen für die genialen Lösungen in Sachen, Handkreissäge sowie der Stichsäge, baue beides nach😁. Dankeschön!!....und noch einen schönen Abend. LG, Petra
Thankyou sir, I just built mine today and it's amazing. You don't need rubber bands as the metal belt attachment will swing over. I use mine for kickerfaces in kitchens so my end timbers were 25mm. This way I could put the saw in a 45 degree angle to cut mitered ends.
Boa noite meu amigo, quero te parabenizar e antes mesmo, te agradecer por passar tanto conhecimento nessa arte dão bonita como é a marcenaria. Sou iniciante e um dos primeiros vídeos tutoriais que vi, por sorte foi um dos seus e desde então sou seu discípulo. Parabéns mais uma vez, pelo seu talento e que Deus te encha saúde para poder multiplicar isso, por muitos e muitos anos. Grande abraço!
Just finished mine. But it has my dimensions: 1000x400 mm, the fence is made out of oak, and I made myself, the rails from two pieces of 1000x30x4 mm steel band and two pieces of 1000x14x5 mm steel band. I drilled all of them and threaded the holes in the wider bands. Then I screwed the narrower bands on top, with M4x10 mm countresunk screws. Each rail has 10 screws. It makes them sturdy and stable, for the extended lenght. I tested it and I could perfectly cut plywood and particle boards up to 50 mm in thickness and 880 mm wide. The saw I use is simmilar with the one in this video - Makita DHS 680.
Станина под ручную циркулярную пилу-- хорошая. Я бы к этой станине снизу добавил ножки, чтоб мне дисковая пила не про резала верстак. А так ваше приспособления под ручную циркулярную пилу, мне понравился.
Пила так выставлена, что в основание заглублена всего на 1 мм. Только для того, что бы от чертить линию. Если разрезать основание, то станина просто развалится на две части. В Этой станине происходит не правильный рез, зуб на пиле, должен не поднимать деталь, а прижимать её (в данном случае к основанию) и сколов не будет и деталь и безопаснее работать.
Elinize sağlık ancak bir eleştirim olacak. Malzeme listesini video başında verseniz daha iyi olur bizim için fikir oluşturur yapım aşamasında. Hem izlenme orano da artar çünkü insanlar video izlerken bilgi verilmeyeceğini düşünüp kapatıyor. Saygılar
I made a similar jig over the weekend but using wood rails. After making it, I thought metal rails would be better and hey presto you upload this video. I like your thought process with adding the back fence at a later stage of the jig build to make the squaring up of the fence easier. I’m going to copy your design as it’s much better than mine. Is there a specific name given to the profile of the metal track/piece you used for the rails so I can find a source to purchase a length.
Gökmen ustam merhaba. Sıkı takipçilerindenim. Abi seni Çok başarılı buluyorum ve çok imreniyorum.Seninle Çokta gurur duyuyorum. Bende bir kesim istasyonu yapmaya çalıştım. Görmek istersen beni ziyaret edebilirsin.Ve ben çok mutlu olurum. saygılar Ustam.
Great thanks.. One thing I don't understand though.. To get the swivel point right with the protractor it seems to me I need to drill a hole right in the middle of the horizontal line/edge on the protractor which would be tricky.. But there is the middle of the circle though. You are a bit under it and still get a good swivel, doesn't seem to me that hole is exactly the middle of the circle right?.. I assume it didn't came included with the hole.
Wow ! You are genious brother, something cheap, simple and effective, I subscribe you now...where you get the two rails from? Is that wood or aluminum?
Very Good simply machine ,but can be improved : The angle roller must touch the end cut to achieve more support in 45 . And if so , you do not need to remove for 90 degrees . Do a hole in the ruler or table and a small pin give the necessary resistance to support this cut at 90 .Only in a very big peaces you will remove the ruler .I do not understand so many negative clickes .
Attempted to do this. Didn't account for the fact that my circular saw is only 5.5 inch, so it doesn't take the cut down to the plywood. Rookie mistake LOL going to need a thinner piece of track.
6 лет назад
This kind of things happens sometimes :) but i think you can easily overcome this.
