I think the issue is your idle control valve. What that is when you are in park or stoped or applying the brake your foots off the gas pedal and it on the brake so to keep the engine running the idle control valve allows air to pass by the throttle body and keep the engine running at idle. Sometimes these little valve get dirty and they become stuck closed and chokes the engine of air stalling it out. You can find this valve by your throttle just follow the hose by the air box and you’ll see the mass air flow sensor right past that you should see the throttle position sensors and the air control valve. Unplug it pull it out clean it. The reason the engine stays running with your foot on the gas pedal is because you are keeping the throttle body flap open.
I love watching videos of people fixing there cars specially with a speaker all you hear is a car not starting and a grown ass man moaning and grunting I understand why my neighbors hate me now it’s not because of the loud cars is because they think I’m watching porn at 3am on a Monday while I’m making a ruckus cursing at my self
i've had similar issues with my ef hatch, mpfi converted. i have a walboro 255 fp, brand new. has 40 psi going to the rail. ive pulled out the pgm fi relay and cleaned off some corrosion but still no progress. ive rebuilt the injectors, cleaned the maf sensor numerous times. cleaned the throttle body, flushed injectors. flooded pistons with top fuel cleaner. im stumped and its driving me insane. i want to mid engine mount this but if it dont run theres no point. tempted to just pull it out and tear it down and rebuilt it with new wire harness. ill try swapping ecu's beforehand.
@@2LAZY-2EDIT distributor is new. Maybe timing though. If it's all good and ecu doesn't fix it then I'm just pulling it out but ill keep posted. I never really comment on videos but I'm glad to see similar issues and different thoughts.
Im having same problems with my car the stupid mechanic changed everything and still couldn't figure out that it was temprature sensor which is fluctuating telling the computer that its hot through less gass then it thinks its cold throughs more fuel in. If you wait for the engine to cool off it will work again until it gets hot. Short term solution in cold places direct the fans so they start on ignition when the car won't reach the ideal warm middle spot where the car goes crazy the car will keep running but change the temperature sensor not the thermostat valve or some other thing. Try the direct fan hack you will know where the real problem is
Thats a distributor problem im sure, and bro don't rev your car on u cold engine, well it isn't a Hyundai but you can cause piston slap, not the end of the world but just a very annoying sound
Man I was driving my 93 hatch down the Boulevard last night after going out to eat with my girl, and I got to a light and I was playing around downshifting all through the gears and went to hit the gas again and the car just bogged down and shut off, and would not cut back on at all, I had to get it towed home and was pissed off, but I been messing with it and still cant figure out, I know it's getting fuel, it will almost start but wont just cuts right off, I'm thinking it has something to do with the ignition switch, I do get the check engine light, when I put the key in but it goes away I wonder if I can scan it still would it show anything
@@2LAZY-2EDIT Also when I cold start the engine there's a rough idle the revs will climb to 2k rpm then drop this happens 2-3 times and then resumes a smooth idle
@@stephanopapadimitriou4789 can't really give you good advice buddy I read up some stuff, some people saying coil pack gets moist due to cold morning dew which can cause it.
@@atticusspontaneous I had a similar problem of keeping it running when I could get it started, my problem turned out to be a broken tooth on the timing gear.
Well my fcking CIVIC 96 Lxi 1.5 does the same and I can't even figure out the problem and I am literally out of patience now. I don't have a fcking fuel pressure test and that is what I am thinking right now since the car starts normally, idle but can't hold the engine running as if the injectors are losing gas that is why it hesitates to continue running.
Keep it simple, check back distributor, if you got to check for fuel open up fuel line by gas filter in engine bay, but my issue was fully timing and distributor.
Having same sort of issue with my 1998 Honda Civic. Starts and idles fine after 1-2 days of sitting and doing nothing....run it to warm up....turn engine off, leave and come back after 20 minutes, and have this shit start with the rough idle and stalling. Replaced fuel relay about seven months ago for a different reason. On all occasions, I was able to drive it back home but I literally had to drive my old girl (212k) at the speed of heat at high RPMs and pray that I didn't have to stop for a light. No, I don't think I can trust Betsy for a ride to the 711 anymore. Check battery light is flashing when she starts over but turns off once I get her started also no smoke.
My issue was distributor, i would check distributor cap and rotor first, i had that issue with my old blue civic, would stall when i got to a light when RPM got to low. If i kept driving would be fine
r0mulyni2 So the issue for the stalling was your distributor? I’m currently dealing with the exact same thing. I’m getting fuel on both feed and return, checked the main relay because it died on the road. Got it to start and brought it home barely but it wants to stall and die out at low rpm or when I give it any kind of throttle. Just tapping the gas from idle makes it want to die.
@@tco8183 yep it would spark sometimes, why was a pain to trouble shoot, i took it in to guy who works on track cars, took him a few to figure it out too, but it cost me 5x amount, just buying distributor your self and installing, would save money before a pro has to look at it, and i changed my fuel pump too before i took it in, which was not needed.
r0mulyni2 thx for this! Right, I changed my fuel pump because when I googled stalling, hard start etc...nothing but fuel pump stuff comes up...thx for the reply
Sre you manual car? If you are a manual car you too fast relase the clutch to fix it you need to slowy relase the clutch and then shift up or down the gear
@@2LAZY-2EDIT Hello friend ! i have the same damn issue with a 2001 skoda 1,6 Audi engine , what is a Distributor ? is that the one that gives power to the coil pack and coils ? God Bless ! car works fine now you say ?
r0mulyni2 so Im on my wife's account, but I digress. I actually just did some head work on my 2005 Honda Civic ex, but I was surprised at how easy the timing belt replacement was... I had an idling problem or surging rpm after I put everything back together, and tried the idol reset your doing in the video, but didn't work. Mine was a vacuum hose was off the intake. But scannerdanner and "ErictheCarGuy" has some good Honda Civic vids. Also, I've seen some Vtec solenoid issues create similar problems to yours. However, I'm not a mechanic, but rather a parts changer, which is not the cheapest thing often times. Check out those two channels and see if you find anything. Also search any check engine light codes. Great info out there for older hondas. But timing is definitely something to consider. Good luck sir,
