That's impressive. Well done, but I think that I'll wait for $299 Woodpecker version to come out rather than getting my hands dirty. Or, maybe even get the $799 Festool type, cause it'll come with a sustainer.
Tighten it harder! If it still moves wiggles then tighten it more lol! I have the same exact vise so I know the struggle but I put 1/2 inch blocks of red oak on the jaws to protect my work and you can tighten the heck out of it with no wiggle and no worries.
It's a very good solution and also an old one. You've created a type of pivoting vise jaw. Some of the Wilton vises used to come from the factory with a different type of pivoting jaw that did the same thing. Hold nonparallel parts. There have been aftermarket and shop made ones also. And the old pattern makers vises would move in all kinds of ways. Everything old is new again. Great work though I haven't seen one in the configuration you came up with.
The Late Robert Wearing of the UK had a similar jig in some of his books , Thanks for bringing it to a new generation of woodworkers. If we don't share these techniques we loose them (subscribed!)
What I'd say is that T-Guide thing that gave you so much trouble, you don't really need it. Just keep the two pieces separate. Maybe not as satisfying from an artistic point of view, but hey. My motto is, whatever works.
Hot glue doesn't dry, it freezes. All it is is a stick of plastic that gets melted. Beauty of it is that you could recover that first one by remelting it.
I didn't! Home Depot sold me three beadboard panels on clearance for $8 each. They were falling apart, so I had to glue them back together. Then I bought a bucket of barn paint for twenty bucks and used some scraps to build that small cabinet behind me. It just looks fancy. It's not.
@@worstworkshop That's awesome! I just rewatched your workbench video because I had forgotten about it when I made my first comment (forgetfulness is another sign of aging). BTW, I noticed you have a flag in a shadow box above your "fancy" backdrop. Was that for a relative?
@@mikehodges6598 Yes. I'm glad you noticed. My great uncle Bobby died in WWII, and that's his burial flag. I was torn as to whether or not to include it in the "set," but I think my family will be proud to see it there.
A little bit out-dated, my family have been doing this with our vices for over 50 yrs. This is only another variant of the inverted V blocks for holding dowels vertically. This is just a smaller variant of the old wheelwrighte's vice, 100's of years old.
Wheelwright's vises are severely underappreciated, as is the value of a vise that racks naturally. Rex Krueger has done some excellent videos on these vises, and has plans for one, I believe. I saw two advantages to this one. One is that you don't always want racking, and this allows for either configuration. Secondly, these cast iron woodworking vises are readily available. I could certainly build something like a wheelwright's vise if I wanted to, but between this and my twin screw vise, I feel like I'm covered...unless I have to start making wagon wheels, of course. Thanks for that insightful comment!
A tip for the bent strips: Don't use MDF. Use real wood. Cut to size, then steam or boil in a pot of water. Clamp to shape overnight in the vise. Then glue in place after they are dry. Obviously no longer a 2 hour project. 😁
Yep. I've done that before too. You can also resaw to thin bendable laminates and glue them together in position. But 1/4" MDF bends really well if you get it wet.
Consider using a shop made jig for the bandsaw cut of the trunnion radius. Then leave the trunnion mounted in the radius jig and use a Tee router bit to put the groove in.
OK, you're smart. That's exactly what I was planning to do if I decided on making a small run. And thank you for saying TRUNNION! That's the word I was looking for and couldn't remember.
You're not wrong. Essentially, that would allow for one point of contact on that side, but the other piece means you probably have at least two. It would work though.
@@worstworkshop vice is correct in UK English. Anymore I've taken to saying that I speak American these days. Our respective languages have diverged quite a bit over the course of time. A lot of Americans get the vice/vise thing wrong though. I see it a lot. "Vice Grips" Yeah you read.
Construction adhesive may work well for the track, since it can remain a bit elastic. Hot glue can actually be pretty strong, you just have to preheat the surfaces with a heat gun for maximum stickage.
Very clever idea! Thank you, grandpa/cousin. I don't know if you're 37 or 73, but either way, you've come up with a really cool idea that I legit had never seen before. Subscribed!
@@worstworkshop Dude you're 51?? You look so much younger! Wow. I mean the beard looks 73 - I see what that guy's talking about - but ignoring the beard, about 40 seems right.
@@worstworkshop Was thinking more of the constant clamping and unclamping load. That's not a scenario I would think CA glue is good for over time. But it's not like I ever tested it. But think about it. If you get some on your skin. You wait for it to dry (get brittle) then supply a load to it and it just crumbles and flakes off. Wood glue would still stay together. Not sure about Hot glue as I don't use it much.
@@worstworkshop There's different hot glues. There's even other thermosetting plastics. Which is what hot glue is. HDPE looks just like hot glue when it is melted. It's about as sticky too. But there's different kinds of HDPE. There's translucent and colored. Colored HDPE has binders in it. So it has different properties. Even white HDPE is colored. But plastic milk jugs that's translucent. Melting HDPE is a whole thing.
First video of yours I've seen ... 👍🏾👍🏼👍 *SUBSCRIBE* I do plan to make this. *NOTE* if you are prematurely gray and clearly not old, don't call yourself old. Those of us who really are old can tell the difference. 🤨 😉 I'm looking forward to watching a few more vids of yours. ✔️
Good idea! Lazy as I am I usually take my tapered bit as an angle spacer and run it together with scrap wood in my saw to get the matching part for my vice. Having your solution though would be nice. Maybe some day. 👍🏻 Kind regards Anders Sweden
Not on your video at all but around 10pm on July 9th google crashed I guess. Many diff creators of content that didn’t start or end as well in mids without commercials. Btw great video. Thanks.
You know what you can do in less than 2 hrs that would simulate this? A vertical dowel on one jaw. When the back side of the part is clamped against a single point, it doesn't matter if it's not parallel. -washed up diemaker with 20 years of experience watching youtube videos.
I have a sears Craftsman 16 direct drive model number 113.236110 and I only have plane pined blades and or any kind but pined adapter that came with it but not sure what other company product of other places may have the (pinless adapters for the top and bottom I need, do you know where i can get parts like that for a obsolete scroll saw?
Not sure if I’d do that, very rarely need to clamp angled pieces but regularly need more distance. And when need to clamp angled, it’s easy to clamp it some other way, like with a small wood piece or clamp-in-the-vise etc.
Thanks! It's funny you say that. I was thinking about you in some of the calmer, "zen" moments, reminding myself not everything has to be over the top. You're a good influence on me.
For someone like me who really only needs to do this every once in a while, an almost as good tool can be built in about ten minutes: just cut the two curved pieces and voila. Of course you'll have to manually hold both pieces plus your work piece as you tighten the vise, and it's not quite as convenient, but it does the job just fine.
now put one of those on both sides, then put two that are half their size inside of them, then put two that are half their size on the face of... oh... that's just a fractal vice 🤔🤷♂️
Clever solution, well done, seems pretty nice, but I would just use a wedge. Wedges work perfectly, and they're quick, cheap, and easy to use. Especially since this is not a super common problem to experience.
Sure. I meant to mention that in the video, but guess I didn't get around to it. This is really about what you do in your shop. Some people may need something like this once a year or less, and others will need it pretty regularly. It just depends on what you make and how you make it.
Thanks for the tip and idea. Something I can really use. As for AURA, not so much. Inform your viewers to Pay for a full years subscription up front or Aura won’t help you. They offer a month to month subscription where they treat these subscribers as low level members that do not deserve full support. CAREFUL!
Thanks for your comment. I'm not sure what you're seeing that leads to that conclusion, but I know what you're getting at. It's actually mounted about 1/8" below the surface of the table, so the stop works great. With wooden jaws, the faces of the face are flush with the table. The extra 1/8" is so I can resurface the table a few times before I have to remount it.
I am wondering how many headaches it could have saved me over the years - it's great! Umm, I don't think it's Worst workshop anymore, I think it's BEST :)
I have been wondering why no one has not yet to come up with a DIY plan for making a woodworking fractal vise with scraps. 😂 Idea itself is revolutionary, nonetheless.🎉
It could be developed further, to make it more like a traditional fractal vise. I thought about it, but it seems two points of contact on each side are enough.
Oh, I know. I've watched restoration videos on them, along with Adam Savage's videos on his. This is really just a pivoting vise jaw. You can buy one from Wilton with it built in, but mine can be removed, and is a LOT cheaper.
Stuffing something like a rag or shirt in the spaces that aren’t getting clamped works great. Just don’t be afraid to really crank on the tension rod and she ain’t goin no where.
@@worstworkshop yes sir I think about it every time I need to clamp an odd shaped piece lol! I definitely will make one . Thanks for the content. Great video
Except that engineers do use hot glue. They also use plastic injection molding which is the same process. And 3D printing is identical to using hot glue.
Late to the party this time - because I've actually been out in my shop, working on a massive build. LoL. While this may not have saved me any time on this one, im comfortable assuming it will in the future. Thank you so much for your consistently quality presentations. And, for the record, I'm proud to have been the first public recognizer. LoL. ;)
I have bought into the microjig dovetail clamping system. With two quick clamps you can clamp anything to your dovetail routed bench top and front. It’s so simple yet brilliant.
It's a good solution, and really clean looking. I do something similar with holdfasts, but sometimes you just want a vise to grab your work and get moving
You can make a vise. I made my first woodworking vise. Well, I found an old rotted out head of a vise and remade all of the wooden pieces. I got the screw and nut out of that. If you're good at scrounging you can find suitable nut and thread for a vise. If you're really desperate you could use blocks and opposing wedges. A screw thread is just a wedge in the round. It's an inclined plane that wraps around a cylinder. There are various schemes for hand carving wooden threads even. I've thought about making wooden threads. I haven't done it yet though. But it is possible.
@@fiveduckstudio I use vises quite a bit so I have quite a few. There's different kinds of vises. Some are more suitable for certain tasks than others are. Which is why I don't get by with just one. Although I suppose if I had to I'd manage somehow.
I love everything diy and this is an elegant solution...perfectly solves the problem, easy to use, and inexpensive. Yes, I do plan to build one. Thank you for sharing!!
Thanks! It's not a true fractal vise, but I bet one could be made, with enough skill and patience. I honestly think two points of contact on each side is enough though.
Nice job, normally when i see something using a wedge like this the faces are grooved, in this case, i bet you would get more range out of it by gluing some sandpaper to one of the faces.
Exactly. I've used it go glue boards together "temporarily" only to find out the glue is stronger than the lignin that holds the wood fibers together (at least on cheap construction lumber). But this wasn't a good place for it. I could have left that whole bit out, but what fun is that?
uhm, there are even steel vices like this and what is called fractal vices that can grip very complex shapes, these are mostly used in jewelry and small scale machining lkke watchmaking and such
Absolutely. But fractal vises are hard to find and cost insane money. Pattern makers vises do it too, but again, really expensive. They're also way better than what I made. Wilton also makes a vise with a pivoting jaw, but this just took a couple hours to build anyway
@@worstworkshop true, but being a trained instrument maker I have had access to some quite expensive and rare gear, like indexing that are repeatable to sub arcsecond and auto collimators to match... Very few of them are in the "wild", they need rooms with temperature/humidity/preasure co troll and stuff floating on air cushion... We could measure vibration from our heartbeat and breathing from several meters.
@@worstworkshop yes, but we where calibrating top tier surveying equipment for some government project... Money was a non issue, those where the days, sigh. Now that is a dying field
