Calling all BAKER Gearheads! Class 14 will show you how to properly adjust your primary chain. For any further questions please refer to your factory service manual or give us a call at 517-339-3835. www.bakerdrivetrain.com
If you are setting the chain at the tight spot, why wouldn't you set it at 5/8"? That way the looser spots would be more than 5/8". It seems to me, that setting it at 7/8" would mean that the loose spots would exceed 7/8". Thanks for the video.
Wouldn't tight spots be created by an elliptical rotation of the comp gear or clutch sprocket , like excessive crank sprocket shaft run out or trans input shaft ?
I have a 2012 fxdb installed a comp eliminator and threw everything back on. It came with a boot to go on top of the chain tensioner. The bottom chain is now millimeters away from the gear shifter link is that safe? I know the chain gets slack when torquing or slowing down
David McAdams check at 5,000 miles initially and as another commentator said check if you hear any out of the way noises in primary. I have the Baker Compensator and the Baker Tensioner. When I checked my tensioner at 5k miles it was still exactly where i set it. I now check every other primary oil change and so far its stayed at where i set it when I installed.
@@scottgorman7166Today that gasket is $45! I reuse them 3-4 times. Torque on the light side first use. Add a few pounds torque each use thereafter. FYI, the little round derby cover gasket is $15 now. 🤕
Crazy ..the only cause for a difference is the e runout on the crank, unless your trans shaft is already bent ( tight spot should be 5/8 so the loose spot is never more than 7/8)...... otherwise noisy primary
Would it not be a good idea to remove the chain from sprockets and relocate so the power stroke is not always at the same place . This should streach the chain in a new section and over time chain would not have such a mark difference between loose and tight spots .
@@BFG100K If your crank shaft has that much run-out, you have a serious problem!. Chains don't stretch evenly all the way around, hence the different tension during rotation.
david co Thanks for your opinion, I agree that it is a problem, but I have to disagree on the chain. Its a common problem for Harley cranks to have runout, and new chain links are incredible uniform, so the tight /loose is not the chain. The Harley shop manual describes how they adjust it for tight/loose during assembly at the factory with new chains. The large factory runout becomes a very real issue for those who wants to change from chain drive to gear drive on the cams in their TC engines. There are interesting work shop videos here on RU-vid discussing the issue.
@@BFG100K No other manufacturer has flaws like that. Just check the machining quality on the inner primary gasket areas... An 8th grader could do better. Last harley i ever own.
Sounds like your gonna need wing nuts on the primary cover bolts for as many times the cover will be off and on. Doesn't sound very productive. Sigh..!
Should be named improper way to adjust tension...You shouldn't have loosened up anything until you check the tension with a ruler in multiple spots not the way you're doing it doesn't make sense.. The tension could have been in spec. and you did all that for nothing.
Good God why make it so complicated? All this measurements points do this look there angle this and that. Look. It's done cold. And it's I you can move the tension of the chain more than one I said 1 only one depth of the chain it's too loose. Going down is always pretty tight.
