would be great if you guys could actually do a rebuild on that type steering box as well. The added info would be extremely useful for many of us Mustang builders out there I'm sure. thanks again.
Great video. Dustin Good man for keeping the language where it ought to be. Glad to learn from afar right now. Hopefully i'll get to work out there soon.
On my 68, the power steering pressure line blew and caught fire coming back from the car's 1st show after restoration. I was using the silver split heat insulation tape with the built-in velcro. The line was still too close to the headers, and the velcro part lit up. The big fix?... I replaced the original softer rubber hose I bought from Ecklers with a stronger, stiffer line that I got from Oreilly's. The replacement hose looks and feels like the ones you see on heavy equipment. The cost was the same, but the quality was far better.
Good video. I have a 72 ford maverick with this system. Issue I think I am having us the steering feels "dodgy".. like when you start to turn it turns quickly. Cornering is an adventure as it takes very little movement to go thru corners. My question is there an adjustment with the ram/ pump that attaches to the Pitman arm? I see there is threading and a pinch clamp. Steering feels as though the power assist to leading to quickly. Other idea is to change out the manual gear box for a PS and delete the assist system. Great videos.
Weld that ram bracket to the frame. They almost ALWAYS break the nuts loose inside the frame rail, from the extra leverage of the longer bracket. Thankfully mine is already done, since I installed headers on the car. They have the same fitment issue you did on the exhaust pipe on the wagon.
@@AutoRestoMod Did you use the Gates hoses/lines 353300 for the valve to cylinder lines. I am trying to test fit everything right now, and I am kind of worried about the lines kinking up and causing issues. Were there any problems with kinks later on? The fit looks nearly impossible with the parts in the car. I have everything loose at the moment.
Harry True. We went with Lucas to test it out and see how it performs. The pump seems less noisy at lock with the Lucas. At this point it is a wait and see.
Great video! I have a 67 Fairlane with a 390 4 speed. Would this power steering kit work on the 67? I know the 67 has a solid, one piece steering shaft all the way from the steering box to the steering wheel. No rag joint, I think Ford changed to the rag joint in 68.
First of all I wanna start out by saying These videos you make, Have been a life saver for me. I couldn't have gotten as far on this car for my daughter with out them. Now, I have the one piece long shaft box on my 65 mustang coupe. Can you tell me if there is a rebuild kit for that type of of box. I've tried to look one up. The ones I found look like they have to many parts and pieces with them. This may be do to the fact that the kits fit multiple steering boxes, but I don't know enough about them to figure out if it's the correct kit. any help would be appreciated. Thanks again for making these videos.
We'd contact Dan at Chockstang: (217) 882-2083, tell them you saw this video. He is a WEALTH of knowledge on these systems. He will probably have a rebuilt unit that will serve your needs quite well.
Another great video guys. I'm looking to replace the steering box on my early 67 coupe. It's manual but I want the quicker ratio from the power steering box. I figure it will keep me in shape. Have you used any opentracker products? I was looking at their roller idler arm for a little less steering effort with the quick ratio box. I heard that it might reduce the return to center, but the return seems pretty violent to me at the moment. Roller spring perches would be nice too, but it's all in the $$...
Great video. Very helpful. Question: Looks like you installed the power steering cylinder bracket about 6 years ago using the crush nut. How is it holding? Do you see a need to weld the bracket?
Hey Jeff, question on the center link itself. If you had to change JUST the center link (oh because just by some reason the car slipped on a jack off the center brace and bent the center link a bit upwards..not that that would happen...lol) , can you just remove it from each inner tie rode and it unthreads by turning on the control valve or MUST the control valve be remove ? That guy that dropped the car doesn't want that headache...Rob
Man, sorry to hear that you had that happen. Glad no one was hurt! The control valve is pinned to the drag link too, or should be. I have never removed the drag link from the car and left the valve attached, so I really can't speak to that. If the car is sitting high enough, theoretically the drag link should be removable from the car. Be careful!!!
+AutoRestoMod Muscle Car Resto and Modifications Cool thank you, I am in the process of rebuilding my 72 Mercury comet front suspension and need to rebuild the power steering components, I've rebuilt the pump thanks to your video but their isn't really a lot of detailed videos on the rest of the components
on my 1967 mustang . which end of the pressure hose should you hook up first .? the end that goes to the pump, or the end that is on the valve.? this maybe a dumb question to some but i need to know the correct way . thanks for any help with this.
Thank you so much for this very informative video,i have two questions please. i am planning to rebuild a control valve of 59 Mercury, however i am not sure what the correct kit to order as there is only (vertix) stamped and i didn't find any other code or something and i am not sure if the previous owners had replaced or it's the original part? How easy is it to turn the steering wheel on a stationary old car not moving? Cause mine is very different to turn the steering when the car is parked, however once it starts moving it gets really easy to steer you can steer with a pinky finger.
I would contact Chockostang chockostangclassicmustang.com/ And see if they could rebuild your stuff. Ford used pretty much the same thing from the 1950s all the way up to 1970. That slave cylinder style power steering system should be easy to turn at low speed as well as like you say finger tip and highway speeds. Your issues at low speed could have something to do with it needing a rebuild.
I know it has been a very long time, but at 18:00 minutes I notice that the driver side tire is actually hitting the end of the PS control valve. I am having this same problem on my '67 Fairlane and I wonder how you got around it? If you every put wider tires on it, then you are really screwed as your turning radius would be cut way down (or the tire would come apart). Thank you.
Water tires do affect the turn radius not really a good way around it with the stock power steering system. They weren't designed for super wide tires back in the day. Your best bet might would be to try to stay with a very thin sidewall on a wider tire.
Hey Jeff, I have a new center link (mine got bent) and on the passenger side, removal is easy. On the drivers side, it goes into the power steering slave cyclinder (like 5:12 shows on your video) How easy/hard is it to get it out ? I guess I am asking, without removing the power steering , what do you do to get THAT end out...I cant find steps anywhere...Thanks
If you are referring to the actual slave cylinder, the hardest part is the pin in the cylinder. I have never taken a cylinder off without dropping the tie rods.
Hi Jeff...Yeah, found a video ..bottom line, the center link and control valve all have to come off because they get joined internal (there is a good video thank God) and then mounted as one piece. I think my biggest challenge will be the studs (like the pitman arm connection, slave cylinder connection, etc.) UGG...Here is the video (start at 6:45 to see what I mean ) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zg17Noy82Pg.html
A question. Is this mustang used to be a manual steering? I have a manual steering '65, and I want to convert it to power steering. do I only need power steering control valve and power steering slave? Pls help. Thank you
Mb cB There is one, I had to take the one that we hand and cut a bit off to get it to clear the shaft. After the inside one takes a set I'll put another bush in that is thicker. Good eye Mb!
I thin space limitations was a big factor on smaller cars. In 1965 Ford went to a integral box on Galaxies but stayed with the rams on the Mustang, Falcon, and Fairlane until 1971 on the Mustang and 1972 on the Gran Torino. The Falcon never moved away from the ram valves.
