Hidden Hinge Install on my #topgunjonboat jon boat to bass boat conversion. I go over installation techniques, tools needed, and do.an in depth demo of how I installed virtually hidden hinges in my boat build.
Hey Anthony, Nov.14, 2023 I used the same 1/4" ply for the deck on my boat. It is actually 2" thick. By using the idea of hollow interior doors with a honeycomb in between the outer surfaces. The whole deck is about i/4 of the weight of a single sheet of 3/4 plywood. The frame gives it the strength . On your hatches you could glue and screw on some wood strips around the edges. Do like wise on the doors . This will give you plenty of room for the screws. Enough to mount the hinges level to your deck and below the rug. Then the hinges would be hidden a little better. This would also prevent you from kneeling on those exposed hinges. Oooouch ! Going to check-out your video Clean Hidden Hinge Install BEEFED-UP!!! Curious as to what you came up with. Good Luck, Ray
Thanks Ray. Appreciate the insight. These videos are pretty dated, I use all aluminum lids now but in the event I do a wood project I actually have updated methods. Appreciate the feedback nonetheless.
Dude, I've been watching so many of your videos and some more on RU-vid, but yours are very great explaining and you do great work! You've motivated me to do my Lund boat restoration! It's in progress, but it's getting there! Keep putting content on, your channel needs more recognition!
Thanks so much man! I try to explain things the best I can and hope for the best. Channel is growing and i will keep going. Thanks for the input and helping the channel by subscribing!
Excellent workmanship. I just gutted a 16-foot vee and you're quickly becoming my go-to for tips and tricks. Thanks for the inspiration andn the thanks for sharing. 👍
I'm only 16 going on 17 I want my own boat after I get my license and get a job I love doing projects and all and you got me looking forward to doing so i would love to have one of a kind boat and you've thought me so O much thanks
Im Just Me Yeah it worked out well. I believe it will work out long term, just more upfront work to hide them. Design can definitely be improved upon but worked great for me!
Anthony. I don't want to be a pill, but honestly, that does not look like ¼: plywood. I'm pretty sure, even from the perspective that we have that you are using ½" plywood. I agree with the matter of saving weight but I've been a carpenter for 50 years and a cabinet maker for the past 15 before retiring.And like you always say, "I'm no expert" but I'd appreciate it you would take a tape measure to a raw piece and double check it. One reason I'm saying this is that I'm about to go out and find myself a Jon boat try to duplicate what you've done. I'm that impressed, especially with the work you did on your live well. but I really can't see ¼" plywood taking those ½" staples you used. I'd like to hear from you on this. Thanks, and great job all around.
I started in a later video that I mis spoke. Sorry for any confusion, it is actually 11/32 plywood. You are correct, not 1/4 but definitely not 1/2 inch as well. I do have some ideas on what I would do differently on the next build but I am very satisfied with the 11/32 plywood coated in fiberglass resin for this build. On the underside of all hatches I had to put a runner to make them stable to walk on which essentially made it over 1/2. Theres a lot of ways to do it honestly.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats While 11/32" is not ¼", (¼ being 8/32"), It is a hair over 5/16", which makes it just thick enough to accept a #6 screw without splitting out the veneers, especially since you took the time and care to pre-drill and glue the screw holes. That was my main concern, that you would eventually stress out the area around the hinges and cause the whole thing to come apart. Again. great job both with the mod of the boat and with the attention to detail when making the video. A question- after doing all of this, and considering the after-mods to beef up the door panels with 1x, would you reconsider going with ½" (which is no long ½") instead of the ¼"? I know some people are rolling their eyes wondering what's this guy got up his butt. But having worked in a cabinet shop for the past 8 of my 50 years in construction, and the shop being metric instead of standard, we got very accustomed to dealing in scotias, and splitting millimeters when figuring cabinet dimensions. And I was very impressed with your results when it came to the final tolerances after wrapping with carpet. It makes for a great first-class looking professional job. Here are a couple of charts I found that illustrates the differences. The second one might be of interest to you because it concerns the weight variations in different thicknesses of plywood. As you can see, there is almost an 18 pound difference between ¼" and ½" plywoods. What is the Actual Thickness of a Sheet of Plywood Plywood is often sold in 1/4“, 1/2“, or 3/4” nominal thicknesses, but the actual thickness is often 1/32” thinner. Because the actual thickness may vary measuring the plywood is the only accurate way to determine its thickness. A 3/4” sheet is actually 23/32” thick. A 1/2” sheet is actually 15/32” thick. A 1/4” sheet is actually 7/32” thick. Plywood Weight Chart The charts below show the weight of plywood panels at different thicknesses. Weight may vary slightly by manufacturer and product. Standard Plywood Dimensions Weight of 4′ x 8′ sheets of various types and thicknesses of plywood measured in pounds. Plywood Type Plywood Thickness 1/4″ 3/8″ 1/2″ 5/8″ 3/4″ 1-⅛″ Softwood Plywood 22 lbs 28.5 lbs 40.5 lbs 48 lbs 61 lbs 84.5 lbs Hardwood Plywood 24.5 lbs 31.5 lbs 45 lbs 53 lbs 67.5 lbs 94 lbs Marine Plywood 27 lbs 35 lbs 50 lbs 59 lbs 75 lbs 104 lbs Baltic Birch 26 lbs 33.5 lbs 48 lbs 56.5 lbs 71.5 lbs 99.5 lbs Particle Board 33 lbs 43 lbs 61 lbs 72 lbs 91 lbs 127 lbs MDF 36 lbs 46.5 lbs 66.7 lbs 78.5 lbs 99.5 lbs 138.5 lbs MDO 20 lbs 26 lbs 37.5 lbs 44 lbs 56 lbs 77.5 lbs OSB 25.5 lbs 33 lbs 47 lbs 55.5 lbs 70.5 lbs 98 lbs
@@crude4u1948 If you are asking how I would do it today if I were to do a 2nd build after what I have learned I will tell you this: The 11/32 is super light. We know this. Also total pain to work with. You saw th ed issues I had for pre drilling holes, finding hinges to accept the fitment, adding runners under hatches for support, ect. So, is it worth it to save the weight in the decking for a lighter harder to work material or would I do it again? I feel it wouldn't be worth the hassle of weight savings to go small and light. 1/2 inch, although heavier, would save me a lot of headaches if I were to use it just based off being able to plug and play piano hinges alone. I'd like to think I'd have some revolutionary way of doing it my second go round but sometimes I think it may just be better to keep it simple and go with 1/2 inch. I'd love to do some type of thin composite, metal, or hdpe plastic or something but we are talking a lot more $ and headaches. If I did build 2 tomorrow I would do it in 1/2 decking, try to do hatches in 11/32 with some sort of spacer under lips to pad it out to half inch, with smallest runners as possible in wood or some type of metal even, red cedar 2x2 framing again.
I did. They don't work on this setup. Cabinet clearances and designs are a lot different from how framing and decking goes into a boat. Also most cabinet hinges require an insert or recess drilled into back side of door and no way you can do that in 3/8 decking. Cabinet hinges also have a lot of parts/degrees of adjustment which seems problematic. The way I'd did it is the simplest way I could think and has worked very well so far.
This is a handsome build. I'm concerned about the size of the screws in the hinges vs the 1/4 inch plywood. Hope that it doesn't pull away over time. You might need to put some aluminum trim on the hinge side for reinforcement if you notice any fatiguing starting to happen. That will strengthen the plywood as well. I'm not as far as you are on my build yet, but I'm using thicker plywood, and I haven't decided whether I'm going to do hatches yet or not. I think I will now that I have seen how nice yours is. I'm not OCD, but I do love a good clean job and this is one right here. Thanks for this video as it's giving me some good pointers on my build.
Thanks for the compliments, I'll keep yall posted on the strength of the hinges and what not. I would recommend thicker plywood, I have since stated I got it wrong in this video, I actually have 11/32 plywood but regardless it was a pain to work with. Saves weight, yes. But harder to plan out build and fabricate altogether. Not sure what I will do on the next one. Good luck on your boat and thanks again!
Quick question cause I guess I missed it. Where are or should I say how does water escape while fishing and it starts pouring rain. I see no worm holes. I’d buy this boat btw. Lol
Just depends on the hatch. The molded in rear hatches and the one up front w the light bar have weep holes hidden in the corners, the other hatches have gaps in the floor panels. I made sure to leave space for water to find it's way to the factory channels under the floor system. If flooded it should make it's way to the rear where I have a 1,100 gallon per hour bilge installed. Hopefully that helps you. I'm probably going to keep this boat a while but you never know!
I'm 14 I just got my first bass boat and the storage on it is very iffy its a 1962 skeeter hawk nothing fancy but the storage doors are sticking out of the decking itself and Its not sturdy plastic that you can stand on. How do you think I can make wooden doors and hatches built into the deck to be flush? I need help a lot, Thanks
Everything from Snowboarding-hunting Huh... I'd prob need pics to see exactly what you are talking about. I'd think your best bet would be to build new hatches out of wood though. I love working with wood in boats because the possibilities are endless. You just have to spend a lot of time painting and sealing it properly. If you are on Instagram you can DM me pics and I can take a look.
Yo, it's actually 11/32 to be exact which really makes it's closer to 1/3 inch plywood but who really is counting .08 variance of thickness? After wrapping it carpet it would be 1/4 ply, 1/8 inch carpet on top, 1/8 inch carpet on bottom, equals 1/2 inch total thickness. Maybe that's why it looks thicker? But yes, 11/32 plywood to be exact, not 1/2 inch.
thats cool...i started a 12 ft john boat i was like i would love to use 1/4" but even at 10" aprart it was flexing bad..i used 1/2" osb..dont the the way its chipped and compressed together but 2 coats of rustoleum should be ok...
11/32 actually. I corrected on future videos. 11/32 actual thickness which is 3/8 nominal thickness. If you go to Home Depot and buy a sheet of 11/32 for under 30 bucks, that's what I used. In my WATERPROOF HATCH WITH FIBERGLASS RESIN video, I actually build a hatch step by step in raw form and you can see the thickness there.
I know , sorry. I feel I get to the point better in my newer videos. This one was still pretty early in my RU-vid channel. There's definitely a learning curve!
This is a great looking build. This isn't a suggestion but more of an inquiry. How about using strap webbing as hinges over steel hinges??? I have an all welded aluminum that I use for crabbing in rivers near Savannah but also bass fish out of it. I'd like to build a kit that I could winch out to use the boat for shrimp and crabbing.
Great idea !! Looks sharp ! Bad ass! I’m putting my hinges in the same way WOW love it !! Thanks for your channel such an inspiration for me , finishing my 12 foot aluminum will send some pics your way !! Keep it up brother :)
Sheetrock screws dont have a tapering on them. Idk how you feel about using them on wood, but ive never had a problem with them at all. Theyre cheap too.
if you would use a counter sink bit you would get the proper angle in the hinge holes and your tapered screws will sit flush with hidge , just make sure you get the right counter sink bit.. have different angled bits.
True that man. Unfortunately for this videos sake but fortunately for me, I have learned a lot since this video. As good as the counter sink bit works, I've learned the cleanest and most efficient way for me personally is a drill press. Thanks for suggesting!
Hello does those hinges held up well? Because I am thinking about doing it that way and I want to know if they hold up well! By the way great video!!🔥🎣
Still doing well on my boat but if your decking with 1/2 inch plywood the simpler newer solution would be purchasing 5/8 inch offset piano hinges. Available on tbnation.net
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats The only issue is that it’s very expensive and I’m from Canada so shipping + US rate change to Canadian gets me up for almost 400$ worth of hinges 😅
Don't need three. It has metal C channel runners under the plywood that doubles as jig holders. If I was relying on hinges to prevent the hatch from warping then I definitely didn't do something right...
Undercover_Bassin It is 11/32 plywood if you want to be technical about it. Easier to say 1/4 inch because it's only 6/100 thicker than 1/4 inch. I guess I can call it 1/3 inch. That's what it is believe it or not.
Undercover_Bassin No, as I explain in many of my videos the core strength of the deck solely relies upon the framing. Decking in my case is just a covering you can walk on, all strength and support is in framing. Yes, you will see I ran supports or runners under hatches to prevent flex on those. 90% of guys I see who wood frame use way more wood in framing than necessary and thicker plywood than needed. It only kills your boat in weight. No lumber store in my boat.
It's actually 3/8" ply if it's 11/32". Just like 2x lumber the actual thickness is less than the nominal thickness. 1/4" plywood would be 7/32" thick actual.
@@njsanna9709 1/4 inch plywood nominal thickness and actual thickness is both 1/4 inch. Going up to 3/8 translates over to 11/32. 1/32 inch variance in plywood between nominal and actual thicknesses is a far reach from 2x4 going to 1.5x3. At the end of the day who actually cares? We are talking about 1mm of variance here? 1/4 inch, 3/8, 11/32, the whole point is it is feather light and no where near the weight of anything 1/2 inch or above, which is what most people use. Big difference in weight when you compare my deck to say...5/8 plywood.