Definitely worth a try! Be careful using the air compressor air, most compressors have condensate water in the tank that has oil and/or rust in it and you will ruin the window as you aerosolize all that nastiness into the freshly cleaned window.
Context is king. Like dozens of prior commenters, you are both right and wrong. Replacing the IGU makes complete sense if it costs $100 and is easy to install. Cleaning makes sense if replacement cost is in the hundreds or thousands (as is the case for me) and requires lifts and laborers to handle.
I am going to pay someone to do this because I am not handy and I do not have nor do I wish to obtain all the equipment you have around your workshop, but it has been an invaluable education on how this is done. I will understand the process when I hire the company who does this.
@@robbieg25 these folks have a regional business they send a guy and measure your windows. they show up with replacements and pop them in the frames. it was quite reasonable.
Yes, likely coming from a salesman too. My dad’s original gas boiler furnace is the original (1960’s) and we have been told to replace the furnace countless times lol. Just replace the circulation pump every few years and it’s been 60 years strong. Of course the 1st pump lasted the longest and subsequent pumps get progressively poorer in quality and higher in price. 😂 +1 point for the DIY’ers.
I'm going to try this but I'm a little concerned about the oilyness of compressor air. If a hairdryer takes too long, maybe my leafblower being careful not to blow in dirt from either the surrounding area or via the intake.
I am so glad I found this film. I have the same problem at my house and have done a lot of research. If you want to look at more of the same try searching 'get the mist out' or crystal clear window works. Both professional firms but the same end result. Using this set up will save me a huge amount of money. Many thanks.
To connect the chain of decreasing diameter hoses an adhesive like GOOP will aid joining as it will act like a lubricant and when set should give you a strong seal in the join. Great video, I will try on my cottage windows this coming summer.
Great vid mate. I have followed your instructions, the drilling the seal. Top tip.👍. I found normal strength white vinegar did the trick. VERY carefully drilling a 10 mm hole in the seal made the job easier..
Glad people like this... Hope your effort was worth it as you will need to do this fairly often as the seals are still broken and now you also have holes through them. Just being realistic....
You think so? Tomorrow it will be exactly 3 years since I cleaned my first window. It's perfectly clear today. Of course you may have a different definition of "often"...
Great video. I have 5 large windows similar to the dome window with the same hazing. Quite to “Replace and not repair” the issue were mind boggling. I saw kits such as your going for $360.00. I will follow your procedure and comment upon completion. I will likely usa C02 to blow out the alcohol. Thanks for the video, great stuff!!!!
Looks like ur easily pleased or you’re using sarcasm. I doubt this botched job will work and definitely not with seals left open. In winter when the air in the gap contracts it will suck in moist air and he’ll get condensation all over again 🤷🏼♂️
It's a very tricky long winded and sub optimal solution that requires to buy many special parts. I don't like all his heat gun to shrink or pull vinyl tube connection work. Also he is the type of guy that will hide the struggle he went through and pretend his idea is clever but will aggravate people who try it. That 's the main problem with united statian "must win, i'm the best" childish culture, they never give an impartial view, after they struggled their ass over it, they'll say that was easy look how good i am.
Great video. Yes, the argon doesn't add much. When you buy windows to install at high altitude they can install capillary tubes to equalize the pressure anyway, so there's no argon. Better to do it in a controlled way than to have them break as you get to higher altitude. I've lived at high altitude for a long time & you can always tell when people haven't used the capillary tubes - they get them at a home depot at low altitude & drive them up the mountain & pop! goes the window. Theirs are always fogged.
No, brother, we live at ELEVATION (I am at 9800 feet elevation). Altitude is height above the earth's surface, notably sea level. I am fairly confident neither you, nor your house, is levitating.
Amazing. I had no idea. Had 4 of our picture window (6ft x 4 ft) glass inserts replaced for $1,500. I bet I could have done this instead for $100. Will try it when the other 3 picture windows fail eventually. thanks
When I installed my new argon filled windows. The contractor working for the window company I bought the windows from commented that there was no guarantee that the argon put in at the factory was still present in the window due to the way windows twist and turn during transport and installation. They twist allowing for seal to sometimes be broken.
That is an interesting point. U ratings are probably accurate in a lab, but is window efficiency tested after delivery and installation, and compared to non-argon?
I had planned to drill 2 holes to let mine vent but now that I see your method for poking holes, ill try that first before buying a diamond tip hole saw.
Thank you for the video! We have a workshop window like this and wondered if anything could be done for cheap. It’s not a window worth replacing since it’s not a critical window or fancy building, but it bothers me that I can’t see out. If I break it, no big deal. Will be trying this trick soon! Jason
I did this and it worked amazing. They window got sparkling clean. Then I tried to blow air through the case to quick dry it. The window shattered. DONT BLOW AIR INTO IT! I was using a small pool float inflater and it was still to much pressure inside.
Thanks for mentioning that again. As I said in the description under "Corrections", a small aquarium air pump is the way to go. Air line should fit loosely into the hole and there should be a second exit hole. Sorry about your window.
I also made a mistake. I drilled a hole in the top and started to fill it with water and some cleaner. When the window got half full, it burst. The hydrostatic pressure was too much.
Thank you for teaching us how to remove mineral deposits between the window panes. I'm wondering if the water condensation between the panes isn't going to come back quickly after this cleaning procedure. I imagine it would, because the dessicant in the window frame is not dried during this procedure, also whatever leaks existed in the window seal before the cleanup started aren't fixed so the outside humidity will get right back in between the panes.
This is the most commonly asked question in the comments for this video. To summarize my prior answers: If you leave the holes you made open, fogging will be limited to specific weather conditions and will clear up on its own, eventually.
Excellent video! It is several levels above my pay grade/skill level but I “have people” with these skills and tools and I know they would definitely be up for the task! Do you think a can of compressed air might work? Thanks again for sharing this info!
I haven't tried it, so wouldn't recommend it. Compressed air from a can is actually a refrigerant that can hyper-cool the glass, and it may be difficult to control the pressure inside the window (it would not take a lot of pressure to break it). An aquarium air pump is still my top choice for drying (not an air compressor, but I can't change the video). It's slow and steady, and can be left unattended (overnight). Slow and unlimited is likely better than a quick burst, in this application.
Nice!😎👍 Now if this would only work for some of my 1947 Greyhound bus windows. Obsolete parts are quite challenging, so I’m always looking for ways to repair my labor of love. Enjoyed the video.
I'd recommend testing in an inconspicuous area or not trying this at all. Automotive double pane windows often have internal tint that may dissolve with solvents and make a permanent mess. Thanks for watching.
So you didnt fill your holes back to allow for a drain. But what you do to repair the seal which initially caused this problem to begin with ? Also, how long did your IGU remain "clean" before it started getting foggy again ?
My guess is that you lave it be. With this tiny ventilation you may not get that trapped humidity and evaporation cycle that will deposit minerals on the glass. Your local climate is a big factor. I’ll be doing this on my folks 4-season sunroom…although the cataract-like windows do offer some privacy lol.
I had a professional clean & reseal my windows and they got foggy again in 3 years. I think that once the seals are blown you'll never find every little break in them, so might as well give the moisture somewhere to drain.
I no longer recommend the use of a compressor (too dangerous, use an aquarium air pump). That said, it doesn't make as much difference as you may think. The window seals have failed. Even if you plug the holes when you are done, moisture will work its way in and out of the window over time. The little moisture you add while blowing air is negligible. Leaving the holes open tends to yield fairly satisfactory results (occasional minor fogging that clears on its own).
@@akomakomakomgood deal. Yeah it’s just a temporary fix no matter what. Thanks for all the tips! It would be cool to maybe be able to blow nitrogen in it once in a while to dry it out.
1 really big problem , here in th uk 99% of glass units have a low e coating on the inside ,the cleaning solution you used would destroy it leaving the metal oxide coating looking like an oil slik and also halving the thermal efficiency of the window
I must add that i also drill 2 holes in the glass so air I pump in one can escape the other. I finish by covering the holes with small circular band aids to keep bugs out and to breathe.
@@nutzablaze3339 OK thanks for that.. I live in San Diego, and it is amazing that you have 50 people that will install New Windows, but yet to find someone who will fix or even replace the glass. I just need to keep calling around.. My windows are 11 years old, spent a lot to install them, so they need new glass. Fogging up after 11 years, 1 year out of warranty. We have had a lot of rain this year, almost every week, but heading into some 80 degree weather and no rain later this week, so hopefully the moisture will evaporate as the south facing windows get that hot sun.. Time will tell...
@@myradiovideos I have 6, 4x8' , 300# thermos that started leaking, I had no choice but to fix, they are also 30' feet up and would need a small crane to remove and replace.. good luck
So, if you notice the moisture before it has built up gunk inside then all you really need to do is make the hole so the moisture won't build up anymore?
Depending on your climate, that may be all you need. I'm in a humid area, so I wound up getting intense fogging after rain on the glass after a warm day. Eventually I dried it again and sealed the holes on a cool dry day. So far so good, very minor fogging on extremely cold mornings. Probably will need to do it again in a few years, but it doesn't take long.
@@slkfjariao I'm the author. I didn't bury the answer, I simply continued to experiment and wanted to share the results. RU-vid does not allow me to modify the video, so comments seemed like the right place. At this time (a year later), I once again opened the holes and the window has been clear for months. Your mileage may vary. Good luck. Not everyone has ill intent.
@@akomakomakomany chance your humid climate is coastal Georgia? We would have a similar problem, so this is good to know before attempting. One idea, I’ve seen other RU-vidrs ‘pin’ a comment so it shows up at the top of all comments. A summary of your additional hacks and experience would be very helpful in the mean time of republishing a second video. Thanks again for your help!!
I use a little aquarium pump drawing the air through a container of desicc. You can improve the initial solution greatly with a small amt of hydroflouric acid , if you can find it (very dangerous)
I think you meant hydrochloric acid. It is commonly used to clean glassware in laboratories. A mild solution of this will be less concentrated than the acid in your stomach. Not dangerous if used carefully and properly rinsed after use.
I know what hydroflouric is , used it for almost 50 yrs. I am talking about very diluted(2-3%) with water, it will do what I say, you are scaring people from trying it.@@cornelisspronk4068
I want to drill through the side wood frame and through the seal. Put in liquids and shake removable window and frame. Then drain and dry. It will work. I'll let you know.
@@ajlifesolutions7072 nope. Didn't do it yet. I offered to do it for my girlfriend and she said she would think about it and it sounded like a good idea but she never said to do it and i wasn't eager to volunteer. Thanks for responding. I was totally sincere with my comment. Good job.
@@frankconley7630 - Yeah, I’m not sure if it’s worth it to do a DIY job. I have a few that have popped so I need to enquire with an outfit that can do the drilling and inside cleaning. I don’t expect they will use vinegar though, but if it is then it better be weak solution.
It would definitely have been easier to spray. With the windows I was working on, to make a hole in the top I would probably have to drill the outer frame or remove the IGU. If I were drilling through glass, then diagonal corners would make the most sense.
Can water vapor truly precipitate minerals or other chemical constituents on the inside of the glass, as you stated in the video? Or, is it the installed gas, such as argon, precipitating on the glass when the seal is broken? It was my understanding that water vapor is pure water thereby not able to deposit minerals on the glass. No?
I am not a physicist and these are my guesses. Water vapor should not contain minerals (however, it can contain volatiles and friends). That said, when vapor condenses into water droplets, it can pick up impurities from: A) Air (dust, pollen, etc) B) Surfaces (such as any interior surfaces of the IGU, including the seals and dessicant. Old seals and dessicant may have deteriorated, contributing minerals (or any powdery remains). Water can then transfer these things to the glass as it runs down the surface of the window, for example.
Great video, explained well. Any thoughts if doing this on a sky light would be any different. I am not sure I have see those those tabs (drain caps?) that you removed where you poked through for your needles. Thanks again.
How’s it working out for you with corrosive vinegar!? Would be better to use isopropyl alcohol. Air compressor without drying column will just blow wet air back into the gap…🤷🏼♂️
Are you asking about long term effects of a corrosive cleaner on the interior space between panes? I have not seen any ill effects. The alcohol that is applied after vinegar thoroughly removes it. Alcohol by itself would not remove mineral deposits on the glass. I also found no difference between using a plain air compressor and one with a water/air separator. Both worked great, however, like I said in the description, an aquarium air pump is much better and safer. Good luck!
I have 24 windows to do. I wonder if a way to streamline the process would be to drill a 3/16 hole at the bottom of the window and a 1/8 hole at the top, then, rather than going through all of the aiming and squirting, just fill the entire void space with the vinegar, drain, and then refill with alcohol, and drain. Next step would be to heat both sides of the glass with a hair dryer causing the alcohol to evaporate, and once it does, seal the top hole and tape a desiccant pouch to the remaining hole which will allow the cooling window to refill with dry air, then plug Using this method you might even be able to recover the solutions a few times and reuse them. As for preventing the fogging from happening again, I got nuthin...lol. I suppose if you are in a hot climate you could drill a small hole in the interior panes to allow inside dryish air to easily equalize the pressure in the windows, but if it get's below freezing it will frost up in there.
An interesting approach. I would advise against filling the IGU with liquid of any type. The amount of pressure on the glass may cause it to burst (I have no physics to back this up, just a guess). I am also concerned with application of heat to anything containing flammable vapors (alcohol). An aquarium air pump will purge the vapors gently and quietly in under an hour while you work on the next window. I think that you can get good results with a top/bottom hole arrangement and it should be easy enough to squirt in from the top. You can still recover the solution from the bottom hole if you like. The trouble with recovering the solution is that it will have dissolved solids in it, so it may wind up leaving streaks inside your next window. I'd say that it's not worth the savings. There is something I can offer about fogging. I have fogging in the spring that sticks around for a while, and I can see the fog moving around inside the window like in a lava lamp. My holes are both on the bottom. If they were arranged on bottom/top like yours and were slightly open (and protected from rain), the window would naturally convection-vent itself in the sun, purging the moisture.
110% helpful amazing presentation and skillfully executed; just one question, why wouldn't you seal the holes back up if moisture infiltration is what caused the problem to begin with?
Because moisture infiltration didn't happen through these holes, it happened through failed seals. In other words, it will happen again, and moisture will be trapped. I mentioned that in the video description, but I've been meaning to make a follow-up video with some other ideas.
@@akomakomakomyes, please, a follow up video with more tips would be incredibly useful. Also, any further ideas about aiming for large windows would be fantastic. Our DG panes are 8 ft tall x 85” wide (not including the frame, e.g. the glass itself). Pella, Anderson, etc. companies won’t install that size so we are having a lot of trouble finding someone to replace them. This could be our answer, thank you!!
Totally dependant on having Access to the Seal while the window is still in place. HOW !?? does one get any access to be able drill the hole though the METAL desicant block ????
As I recall, the video outlines these options: 1) Poke through a soft seal via the frame, as I did. 2) Drill through the exterior glass with a glass drill bit (non-tempered glass only). You can always seal it later with epoxy or install a small vent of some sort. 3) Remove the IGU and poke or drill from the side. With a large IGU like mine, you could partially pull out just one side (with adequate support or helpers), the glass unit flexed enough to allow this. With a small IGU, you might as well pull the whole thing out. 4) BONUS: If it's a removable pane (sash), drill through the window and seal at the same time, without removing the IGU. This could possibly work for sliding glass doors too. Hope that helps.
Great job on your customized engineering tools and showing how to clean these types of windows. Our primary living room windows are the only ones in our old wooden house like these windows and they are expensive to replace. So cleaning them is my only option to do. I love watching DIY videos & gave it a long shot to find a way to clean between the glass of these types of windows. We suspect they were installed in the 1970s and their age is showing. Thanks for your video & I hope to clean mine as soon as weather warms up and stays that way.
The best video I have seen so far!! I have silvery streaks in my double pane window. I am not sure what this stuff is. Is this the mineral deposit you are mentioning? Will your method clear this stuff?
Silvery streaks could be damaged/delaminated interior tint. "Low-E" coating is a type of tint. If you have nothing to lose, you can give this method a shot. You could also poke in there with a metal instrument (eg needle) and see how the streaks respond. If they are peeling like a tint, then it's probably a bad idea to spray solvents in there, as it could make a huge mess. Good luck.
@@akomakomakom thanks for the reply! however, it does not look like any tinting is peeling. The silvery streaks or dots look like made up of what looks like tiny specks of molds and most of my windows are developing this stuff inside. Any idea what it could be?
@@akomakomakom In my case, the glass has rubber seal covered under something gray. Not sure whether it is metal or plastic. So I do not think I can poke through into inside like you did. So it looks like I have to drill holes to try your suggestion. Once I find the right drill bit and proper equipment. I will try the vinegar and alcohol treatment. Nevertheless, I wish someone could tell me what the nature of silvery streaks and dots are. I am pretty sure other people should have similar problem but no one seems to know what it is. Thanks a lot for your replies anyway.
Argon gas makes very little difference in the first place, and if the seals have failed there is most likely no argon gas left in the window. More specifics about this question are available in the video.
Exterior of our house was painted recently with a sprayer and we have paint drips between some of the window panes now. Think this method would work on getting exterior paint out? Maybe with a less diluted solution of vinegar?
That's really interesting. Paint made it through the window seals? How does that happen? Off the top of my head I don't know of anything that will dissolve cured paint without residue and also will not damage the seals further. I suppose that paint thinner is worth a shot. There may be some risks. If you can get a strong enough liquid stream in there (without creating pressure and blowing up the window), you may be able to wash and scrub with the liquid jet. Good luck.
Yes, mid century windows versus 21st century paint sprayer :/ Excellent feedback, thank you. I was hoping just the denatured alcohol would be enough to cut the paint, then let it sit and use your method again to spray the loose paint with only water. Maybe it’s paint thinner then instead of denatured alc? Will be a lot of trial and error but your video is a great start. Thank you again
You can use absolutely anything you like as long as it does what you need it to do. If you have a hazy window that is the result of mineral deposits, alcohol is unlikely to do anything to clear that up. If you just want to rinse the inside surfaces of dust and would like the liquid to dry fairly quickly, then alcohol is a good candidate.
I live in a rental and my bathroom window has terrible disgusting steam streaks inside. I would love to replace it it's so ugly to look at and my bathroom never feels clean because of it.
Nothing. I already had condensation, so I wasn't overly concerned. That said, the bigger the openings you make, the quicker moisture will enter and also the quicker it will leave. The window seals failed, so the best I can do is make it clear as much of the time as possible. I'll need to make a video about some hacks I came up with.
@@akomakomakomyes, please share any additional hacks. I’ll check out your channel in case you’ve already made an additional video. Thanks so very much!!
Yes. However, the window seals are already letting moisture in, which is how the problem began. Therefore, hole or not, moisture will make it inside. Leaving the hole(s) open leaves a path for moisture to escape more quickly after condensing conditions, albeit gradually.
I realize the large window is out of the question but for smaller couldn't you remove and go top to bottom? Feed fluid (later air) from top hole - drain at bottom and when done run a thin bead of silicone around the exterior to reseal? Its a fair amount of work but IGU's are criminally expensive. (Coincidentally in my area the vinyl window companies seem to go out of business with regularity. No way to claim against the warranty.)
On my windows, those are drain covers for rain water, and possibly condensation. Your windows may not have them. Removing the IGUs may be an option if they are small, or drilling the glass if it's not tempered. Good luck.
@@dgervaz it is usually indicated on the glass. I included an example in the video. Your best bet is to Google that question for a more complete answer. Good luck!
I've never done a sliding glass door. Usually window units in doors are removable. If you can remove it, you can drill the (metal?) seal from the side. Let us know how it goes and good luck. Another thing worth considering is the cost of a replacement glass unit (it may be affordable), or even trying to find a used door of the same size.
@@akomakomakom Thank you for the response, I watched another video where they drilled a hole through the side and was able to clean between the 2 glass panels or I’m gonna look at habitat for humanity store..I will keep you updated. Thanks again, for responding back!
Question: I know how the moisture gets in, but I don’t understand why there are calcium deposits, or scale on the inside - does the atmospheric air leaks in contain those mineral deposits?
Here is my reply to a similar question from a few weeks ago: I am not a physicist and these are my guesses. Water vapor indeed should not contain minerals (however, it can contain volatiles and friends). That said, when vapor condenses into water droplets, it can pick up impurities from: A) Air (dust, pollen, etc) B) Surfaces (such as any interior surfaces of the IGU, including the seals and dessicant. Old seals and dessicant may have deteriorated, contributing minerals (or any powdery remains). Water can then transfer these things to the glass as it runs down the surface of the window, for example.
How about you pour in vinegar from a top hole and let is sit for a while. Then punch a hole to let it drain out. then refill with alcohol and let it sit then let that drain out. Seems it would be easier than making the spray contraptions and not very expensive.
If you can make that work, post a video, I'd like to see it. You would effectively be making an aquarium, so you would need a fair amount of vinegar (and alcohol). This volume would apply considerable pressure to the glass panes. Exploding glass, anyone?
@@d5oper Does nitrogen work substantially better than air (from, say, an aquarium air pump) to justify the cost? We are dealing with failed IGU seals, so keeping moisture out is not an attainable goal. Keeping nitrogen in is also not going to happen. Moisture will enter, moisture will leave.
It's not that the vacuum 'pressure' is powerful, it's that you're dealing with the atmospheric pressure pushing on both sides of the glass when you introduce hard vacuum in-between the panes. But Brian Little is correct; a light vacuum applied would accelerate the evaporation of the fluids and is a better solution than blowing humid air in there.
Good question. I wish I had thought of using an aquarium air pump before I posted this video. Sadly, videos can't be changed. That said, I think it's perfectly safe when used correctly (needle smaller than both holes, very low pressure).
The seales have failed so any argon is gon if you have soft coat low e glass in your units it will now oxidise giving a stained apearence that cant be removed . The units will still fog up this is only a very temperory fix, buy new high quality units . Soft coat low e duel sealed units .
I don't believe that it does. It does, however, condense onto surfaces where it can pick up minerals, then trickle down the glass pane, drying along the way and leaving the solids behind.
Adding pressure within the plains can be dangerous. You never explained what pressures you were using in your sprayer or worst on your air compressor. And you dident explain how big your volcano is. Many window seals are a gummy caulk and if it's seals around your needle your pressurrising the window which can cause the glass to explode. Especially tempered glass! So if you do try this trick, besure to remove plenty of the seal to allow air to excape and not pressure rise the plains!
