I cleaned my carb, and put it back together. Now I cannot figure out why its idling so high. Any sugestions? Ive look at linkages from choke to throttle. Idle screw makes no change and choke makes no change
Could be either one or a very worn timing chain, I would start with cleaning the carburetor, installing a new sparkplug and adjusting the valves the go from there, that's the cheapest and easiest things to start with
Thank you for the video, very helpful. I let my bike set for about 8 months and now I finally have time to get back on it but it needs the carb cleaned first. Hopefully I can I have it all done and running tonight
What is the purpose of the hose coming off the bottom of the carb that is attached to the brass nipple on the carb on one end and has a plastic valve on the other end (valve part #49116-1126)? What is the purpose of the valve? I have gasoline leaking out of that valve after the ATV sat all winter.
I will have to watch the video again because this was many years ago to see exactly what your talking about but a few things it could be is a check valve, a vacuum operated shut off valve or you could have a stuck needle valve letting in too much fuel and its leaking out of places it shouldn't like possibly a vent
@@SouthernMechanic The tube might be an overflow and the valve a check valve. The check valve allows gasoline to drip out but keeps water from coming into the carb. I have the dripping gasoline coming out of this carb hose/check value whether the fuel valve is set to OFF or ON. I perhaps have two issues going on. A faulty fuel shut off valve AND a stuck needle valve.
@@SouthernMechanic I removed the carb and gas tank. I hooked the gas tank directly to the carb on the bench. Guess what? No dripping! I put everything back into the ATV and it works fine. I figure that perhaps my jiggling of the carb while removing it loosened a stuck needle valve or got a blockage of the needle seat to move. Anyways, it is working now. Thanks for your help!
Thanks for this video man! Just picked up a Kawasaki KLT 160 three wheeler with the same carb and this video really helped out. You ahve a ton of useful information!
Could be wrong here, but when i took my carb apart the needles came out, followed by spring, washer, and oring in that order. The carb schematic shows that order as well.
Hey man I have a question my Kawasaki 220 runs fine but once I give it half throttle it's still fine but when I give it Full Throttle it starts cutting out there's no fuel filter installed anywhere what do you think my problem
@@SouthernMechanic no but I'm fixing to do that hopefully that will take care of it, my brother seems to think it's the gas I put in it he said I should put straight unleaded instead of buying this new gas with the ethanol do you think that's the problem?
@@aaronclark1599 this new gas isn't too big of a problem unless you let it sit then that's when it starts to gum up so that shouldn't be your problem, I would start with a good carb cleaning and make sure the fuel is fresh then go from there
Thanks for the video; just picked up one of these bikes yesterday. Would have been nice if you had added a startup of the bike to hear how it ran with the clean carb. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
your welcome, glad i could help, this customer hasnt picked this bike up yet so i will make a start up and run video before it goes back, lol i started to do that right after i made this video but i didnt think any one would be interested in it, thanks for watching
It's been so long I honestly dont remember but most of the time the designs will stay about the same for many years so even if the one you are looking at is a little older or newer it may be the same of close enough so this video still helps you if that is what your asking
Hey Southern Mechanic, what makes my 1995 220 bayou carburetor leak gas when it sets for awhile, it seems to be coming out of one of the black hoses on the bottom of the carburetor...thanks.
probably either one of three things, either you have a needle valve and seat that is not seating and is slowly leaking, the float level could be set too high, or the float bowl drain screw isn't tightened down good and may be leaking
Southern Mechanic, thank you for your reply but I did order on eBay a new after market complete carburetor. I plan on installing it tomorrow or this week. I have earlier this year replaced successfully the rear brake cable so I hope the carburetor will be as easy.
It works wonderful...no more leaking fuel. I payed $44.00 for mine from zoom zoom parts on eBay... Seller information m.j.zee (96659 ) 99.8% Positive feedback It now costs 29.21.
most of them have a cap on top of the carburetor that holds the slide valve and return spring into the carburetor body, just unscrew the cap and the whole slide assembly will pull out of the carburetor, if you are trying to separate the cable from the slide then take the cap and slide assembly off then push the slide against the return spring until the spring is collapsed then push the cable itself down and out of the groove it sits in, once you look at how its made then it will be simple to tell how it is connected, if it is made differently then let me know but that is how most of them are made
you showed me everything I needed to know to finish the job up and everything was step by step. I sure appreciate that brother.Couldn't find a video this detailed until I watched yours. thanks again man
I have a problem w/ my 96 Bayou 220 I was hoping you could help me with. It ran strong and perfectly until one day while we were riding, it stopped mid-ride -- and now it won't start. It's getting fuel, and its cranking, but we don't seem to be getting spark. Any ideas on what that could be? I can take videos and post if need be. Thanks in advance!
the first thing i would try would be the sparkplug, its most likley not it but for a couple of bucks its a good place to start, next thing would be to check the cdi box, stator, pickup coil and ignition coil, most of that can be checked with a ohm meter, you can get the specs either from a dealer, online or a service book, make for sure that its not getting spark though, also do a visual inspection for bad/corroded connectors and broke wires, oh and make sure the key switch and kill switch is good, sometimes they will go bad and will either ground out the ignition system or kill power to the cdi box depending on how that system works
i would start with the easiest things first like the fuses, not sure where the fuses are at on this model but im sure it has an ignition fuse, if that is good then just start probing for voltage from the coil back until you find voltage, other key points would be the key switch and the kill switch on the handle bars
after i fixed this 4 wheeler the owner picked it up so i cant look at it to see but if there is only one fuel line coming out of the fuel tank/valve then it will go into the inlet of the carb, if you are unsure which port is for fuel on the carb then blow through it, you will be able to blow through it when it is up right but when you turn it upside down you wont be able to blow through it because the needle valve will close the inlet, thats the easiest way i know of if you have the carb off of the engine, also most of the time your vacuum line connections will be a straight tube but the fuel line hook up should have a barb made into the tube at the end to help hold the fuel line on, that may be a way to tell if the carb is on the engine and you dont want to remove it
Hey man I got the same bike I cleaned the carb aswell step by step, when I accelerate all the way it's the only way it will stay on when I let go of the gas it will turn off
I tried adjusting the throttle on top of the carb and nothing not even the screw for Rpms it stays on with throttle all the way but when In gear it's not receiving enough power and before I cleaned the carb it was working alright just very slow slow where it would turn off
I was watching your video to see what the low speed screw was set at. Just after the 7 min mark you said it was 2 1/2 turn out when taking it apart. Then just after the 23 Min mark you put it back in and set it at 3 1/2 turns. You never showed starting it after to see how it ran. Mine is at 1 1/2 turn out that my factory service book shows to set it at. I have to leave my choke on half choke to keep it running. As you must know that screw is all but IMPOSIBLE to get at on the machine to make any adjustment on the machine running. (Thanks a lot Kawasaki) I am guessing it should be 2 1/2 turns and will remove it and try that setting to see if it will work any better for me. If you got a way to turn that screw on the machine Please tell what it is.
It's been many years since the video but I would try 2 1/2 turns, i may have meant to say 2 1/2 but yes it ran very well I just got busy and didnt film it and also didn't expect the video to get this many views, you may be able to loosen the intake boot clamp up and turn the carb to the side enough to get to the screw
I found 2 1/2 turns out fixed all of my running issues' I had. The shop manual shows standard setting of 1 1/2 turns causing me to run with the choke 3/4 on. Now it will start with little or no choke at all . Thanks for the video and reply. I still can not get a screwdriver in the bottom of the carb unless I put the right side wheels up on 2 milk crates and loosen the carb clamps then make the carb level with the ground. Then it is doable.
well there are a few things that could cause it to do that, intake leak, too much fuel, jumped timing, valves to tight, valves not sealing ect, about how many miles/hours does the engine have? has it had any recent work done to it?
+Southern Mechanic should be very low hours i just recently rebuilt most of the carb and have taken it off to clean it alot since we got it it was my little brothers my son bought it from my dad
did it run good after the rebuild then start back firing or did it do it right after the rebuild, may have got the cam timing off, does the spark plug look black and fouled?
+Southern Mechanic i got it with carb off and apart he gave me new o rings needle needle seat and float seat it runs great just backfires im running a cheap spark plug from part store made for a mower
ngk would be the best for that but that shouldn't be your problem, does it backfire at all rpm ranges or just like high rpm or idle? if it will idle you may try spraying some carb cleaner around the intake plumbing to see if its sucking air any where just be careful and try to do that test while the engine is cold if you can
+Southern Mechanic thanks for the reply. i fixed the cam timing. I didn't use the right marker thru the sight window. it turns over now and will run but when I hit the throttle very much it stalls out. My Bayou is missing the air box cover. Do you think that will cause this?
+wkualum it shouldn't make that big of an effect on it, try closing the choke a little at a time while trying to rev it up, if it starts to rev up while your closing the choke then most likely its in the carburetor, if it still doesn't rev up then it could be a number of other things like carb has a bad blockage, cam timing still out, weak ignition ect. let me know the outcome of the test and we will go from there
