I have a big soft spot for these ZZR i can remember when they came out can not wait to hear her start up,your doing a grand job so far so keep up with the good work your putting into your videos,as always stay safe fella
Cheers Ian, thank you matey 😁 Start up really shouldn't be far off once we get this weekend done and don't have any surprises. It'll be good to get it back on the road after such a long break hey 👍
Careful when doing valve clearances, Haynes manual sometimes if diff to Kawasaki service manual. Early Z's you did the clearance with the lob facing away from the valve (valve fully shut) Kawaskai modified this to do it as follows With cyl 1@ at TDC of the power stroke, measure the clearance on intakes 1 and 3. With cyl 2@ at TDC of the power stroke, measure the clearance on exhaust 2 and 4. With cyl 3@ at TDC of the power stroke, measure the clearance on exhaust 1 and 3. With cyl 4@ at TDC of the power stroke, measure the clearance on intakes 2 and 4 Kawasaki FSM procedure shows that Kawasaki deliberately chose those crank positions, and valve pairs, so that a clearance would only be measured if the adjacent cam was slightly pressing on the valve. This would ensure that the camshaft was lightly pressed upward, thereby removing any slop in the measurement, making it very repeatable and consistent. With these shim under buckets you can get them withing 0.01 of where you want it. Always aim for the middle of the spec. Also read the bit about the cam chain tensioner with the cam cover off. I think it has a ratchet mechanism so you could overtighten the cam chain if it is left in with cam cover off if there is only a fixed blade on the roof of the cam cover. As Del would say "you knew that already"
Thank you for that matey, very kind of you and I didn't know that as I've not read that bit if the manual yet. I've got access to a workshop manual as well as the Haynes for reference and will be using them both. Thank you for chipping in matey 😁👍
I'm not an engine builder, but when I rebuilt the cylinder heads on my projects, I put it in a plastic storage box with loads of washing up liquid and the hottest water I could bear. I washed it and then blew it it over thoroughly in all the nooks and crannies with an air line. The head being nice and warm appeared to dry completely and quickly due to heat from the hot water.
That would make sense... I was tempted to get the parts washer on the case, but give how stuff flash rusts in here once its been decreased, decided not to preasure wash it etc. Sis you have troubles with inserts etc rusting or no?
@@QuickBikes no problems at all, I had thick rubber gloves, once the head was on the bench fresh out of box and gloves with water inside removed it was still dicey touching the still hot head, blew it dry, run some oil down the valve stems and wrapped the head up in workshop blue paper.
I use the missus dishwasher ..works a treat for the heavy stuff,,,,,AND I get peace and quiet for, at least 2 weeks...for some reason she don't want to speak to me... all good ,win win me thinks
14:58 I’m in the same boat. My trials bike would only go into 1st and 2nd, so I’ve stripped everything off it and I’m rebuilding it, full nut and bolt. It’s only a 2 stroke though, so not as in depth but still new to me. I also watch Matt and learn loads from him but also yourself in your approach. Keep it up mate, it’s a great watch 👍🏻
Give the head a good wash in detergent or diesel and jetwash it out to get the most of those wire brush tails out, then air line it. when spraying with the brake cleaner do it over a clean bowl (washing bowl is my fav) and see if you have any more bits of grit come out. Pay particular attention to all the threads on cam caps as well as oilways. keep oiling the valve guides if using water to wash out. That glass plate comes in handy to clean the faces of the head and cam cover. Straight edge on the head and barrel to check for warp. Have always preferred to use Genuine Kawasaki head and base gaskets and also genuine valve stem seals over pattern one. ~You have done a great job on that head
Thank you matey. It's surprising how much work goes into just one bit of the engine to clean it up, but its worth it I think 😁 All good advice, thank you 👍
@@QuickBikes this is the cleaning i did on my Z500 head. Admittedly did blast it but washed the shit out of it after. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RgWCwTmR-BE.html
Yeah it’s funny when they do that. The first time I used one I just thought they were cheap crap, so I got in touch with the retailer who told me to turn them as low as possible. 🤬🤬🤬
My 1992 ZX11 I am rebuilding has been sitting 20yrs. I had rust in 1 cyl .Rear axle was stuck . rebuilding engine ,bearings and suspension ,and brakes .
Sounds like you've got your hands full there matey. This one is in pretty good shape considering, but we'll see when we try and start it hey 🤣Best of luck with it matey 👍
noticed you mixed up the valves. I pop mine in numbered compartment so it is less to grind in and keeps them mated up with stems as well as seats. also valve clearance wise. Have found a soda blast works great on carboned bits with zero damage.
Just put the valves in to protect the valve seats, then remove rest of the carbon. And last use compressed air thru the oil galleries, very important. I don't know about the zzr's but I can only see turbo potential in this videos and 150 mph power wheelies 😁
You can use a heavier steel brush and die grinder air tool, to clean all the "scale" in the exhaust ports...The head is made of pretty tough ally and won't get damaged if you use common sence..ANY pitting on the mating surface of any valve, throw it out and get a new one!!..You will not be able to remove the pits with "lapping compound"...Insert valves into valve guides and "wiggle" If you notice more "slop" on any particular valve..replace that valve guide...It is really nothing to go ahead and using a "rotary burr" clean those " casting marks" up in the intake and exhaust ports...makes the engine run SO MUCH smoother and increase's power..(takes very little time and is simple tk do)..Don't try your luck at cutting "port angles" until you have someone to show you how ( You cut metal out of the "top" of the "port runner" and not the "ramp"...You can also cut the "port openings" the same on the head at intake and exhaust. ..or "match the ports" as it's commonly called..HUGE performance upgrade!!...It is probably worth taking the cleaned head, valves, spgs, keepers to a Kaw shop mechanic and have him Grind, seat (lap), check spring pressure's and assemble the valves into the head..Looks like it needs it with the "scale" in the exhaust ports ( probably run on regular cheap fuel) considering the "pitting" you talked about on the valves (exhaust I bet..lol)..That Kaw engine loves High Octane fuel / race gas and will run much cooler and cleaner with good fuel..Lastly make sure and check the "valve rocker" mating surface and contact area on "valve stem" for ANY wear!..This has always been a weak part of that engine (and why I said to carry head to a wrench with tools and experience for the actual "valve job".. and valve assembly..I'd go ahead and have him set up the "valve clearance" and "spring pressure's" just because of the Patriot hassle to do it all without head machining equipment and tools, plus a "shim assortment" ..It would get the head "right" and save a LOT of time in the build...LOL..Just my 2cents..lol..It's gonna be a nice bike!!..Frame's a bit to long..(I like putting that engine into a "600" frame! .Oh boy does that make a fun bike!!..Your gonna due fine and you are already knowledgeable enough to build the bottom end..you just need to watch some one do it!..The HARDEST and most important part of the rebuild is building and setting up the HEAD!!..That's what makes all the powernin that engine!!!!!..Have fun 👍👍👍🗽🇺🇸
Mate... LOADS of good info and I'd love to donit all, but I can't.... it makes sense just give the head to an engineering gaff and get them.to do it, but to be honest it would cost more money than I have spare, and I wouldn't learn anything if somebody else just did it for me... Yes they would do a better job I'm sure, but I do like getting my hands dirty o stuff like this. The project has definitely got some interest behind it and I'm itching to get it done, so the money I have needs to go on things the bike needs rather than somebody else's time if that makes sense. I get where you're coming from matey, but Jamie is confident that we can get it done 😁👍 If only I was richer hey 😁🤣👍
Evenin' Mr Quickly, good progress, take the head across to Mrs Woman and get her to power wash it 😁 Chuck the valves up, or even better collet them if you can, and spin them up using some of the Scotchbrite, that'll save you a few hours.
Hehehe.... she LOVES that bloody thing 🤣😂 It's all come up lovely matey and we're in a good place for Saturday now. I'm seriously looking forward to it 😁👍
Yeah, but why the odd blue patches that aren't mirrored on all the plates in the same place? That's what I don't get... The race bike clutches got a proper cooking off the start line especially and the blue was always in a similar place on the steels! 🤔
So I have just been watching Fingerworks channel and hes doing a much older Kwak. But check out the cam chain tensioner on his one, cause I gotta feeling it's a very common thing among Kwaka . . Worth a look dude Well done from NZ
Not sure about that as I've never had or seen a GPZ, but you'd expect a bit of parts sharing to go on across models I guess. Thanks for chipping in matey 👍
What are the inlet rubbers like ? After 20+ years their probably dried out and rock hard, if they ain't cracked and leaking yet they probably will be soon.
lapping 16 valves before the weekend, you've got high hopes haha 45~1hr per valve, 16 of them? i hope youre bringing the head home with you, so you can do it on a bench in front the youtubes haha
@@QuickBikes that's awesome to hear, I can't wait for reassembly, I've had experience lapping valves, it's not an easy task but it is repeatable haha Loving the videos, always looking forward to your videos... Maybe in the future I'll have something worthwhile on my own channel haha
Thank you very much for watching matey, it's very much appreciated 😁👍 I love mucking about with stuff in the shop and it's very cool that people follow long and chip in with comments 👍 Best of luck with your own channel
I have an original ZRX1200,bought as a 40th birthday pressie and Im 60 soon..ANYHOW..notice the edge of the clutch basket has serated scars on it?..thats from interence from the tensioner /chain setup. Very common. A 'popular' mod is Kwiks chain tensioner from the USA..BUT others are available.
@@QuickBikes I think that chain tensioner is a weak spot from watching other kawasaki owners on RU-vid, have a look at shoestring shed he has a zx10 with a similar setup and has a video on replacing that tensioner
are they new valves? or do you know where theyve come from? if you dont know where theyre from youre better off lapping in new ones, youre in there, dont cheap out, do it once do it right
They're the original valves matey. I'd love to replace everything with new kit, but simply can't afford it and these ones are looking alright. I think we'll be fine 😁👍
@@QuickBikes so long as you know where they're supposed to be, all is well👍 Are they numbered? Orientation noted? My limited knowledge would be numbering and marking Orientation.. they will spin and do all sorts.... but they need to seat, if they're the right valve for the right cam, they'll correct themselves, otherwise you need to seat them all. I know fuck all about internal combustion engines, I do know that it needs to be an open and shut system.... I know you know more about this than me, I'm sure you're doing it right.👍
Yeah I've got a Kawasaki workshop manual as well which is my preferred one as it's specific to just this model and much more detailed. Haynes only goes so far really... 👍
