You don't really need to use the bulb as a "nib starter" with the old-style Rapidographs if you fill them by dipping the nib in your ink bottle, and working the plunger. The act of filling the pen "primes" the feed and point, so that it's already filled and coated in ink. All you really need to do is shake it a little and wipe off any excess ink--just like a traditional fountain pen. With the "new style" Rapidographs, you fill the reservoir and then attach it to a clean, dry nib unit, so you need to "prime" the feed and point by sucking ink through with a bulb. But you can ALSO get them started by shaking them a bit too...
I use bottled Rotring drawing ink in my Koh-I-Noors, its darker, and probably more clogging then the Koh-I-Noor ink. It's been a while since I tried Koh-I-Noor ink. I remember it being not as dark but had better flow. I wonder which ink would hold up better to an eraser.
I appreciate this information. I have a koh I Noor .18 that I'm trying to restart from years of non use. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner at this time, but can try soaking it in water and I do have some Rapido ease cleaner. Do you have recommendations (off the top of your head) on ultrasonic cleaners? I'm also wondering if food grade hydrogen peroxide will help as it has oxygen that lifts stains.
Hydrogen peroxide might work. .18 pens are a pain. I buy the least expensive ultrasonic cleaners (around 15.00) made for jewelry. The one I have now is about 2 years old, still working. Years ago, the Koh I Noor model was about 80.00.
Has any one had luck using Koh-I-Noor's in size 0.18 and 0.13? I bought them and returned them because one barely worked, and the other one didn't at all. Im guessing the cleaning pump tool could suck them working again. But I use Rotring Rapidiograph 0.18 and 0.13 as a replacement for these sizes. They work better because the ink that Rapidographs use isn't really waterproof and is less clogging. Also radiograph lines are a bit thicker.
junktube4000 yes. They do work. It is best to dilute the ink with distilled water and don't try to use flesh tint ink as it is too pigmented. The bulb should get ink flow started. They are a little more finicky than larger sizes but I worked exclusively in 6 x 0 pens for about 20 years. An ultrasonic cleaner is also good to have. Those are most commonly sold now for cleaning jewelry. They will help get ink flowing by standing a filled pen upright in one while it is running.
Thanks! I didn't know about this ultrasonic cleaner trick you mentioned. I guess I may as well get one. I love technical pens and I think the reason so many people abandon them is because they don't know all the tricks on how to keep them flowing. Im not sure if I would want to water down the ink to use a 6 x 0 pen. I would worry the lines would disappear after scanning and cleaning up the image in photoshop. The Rotring Rapidoraph 0.13 works fine with it's normal cartridge ink. It isn't as thin as a Koh-I-Noor 0.13, but like I said, the draw back is the ink isn't that waterproof, thats Rotrings trick. Putting Rotring cartridge ink in thin Kor-I-Noors is an idea you could try out.
Is there a particular ultrasonic cleaner brand or model you would recommend? There are so manny to choose from, all in different price ranges. Im excited to try this "standing a filled pen upright" trick!
junktube4000 no there isn't any particular brand now. Koh I Noor used to make an excellent one, but I haven't seen one for a long time. I bought one made for jewelry cleaning that has a basket that sits in fluid. I paid about 25.00 and I use diluted pen cleaner fluid in it.
Your my go-to technical pen expert. I’m leaving town for a month or two and I don’t want my Rotring Rapidographs to dry out. Would leaving them in the fridge be a good idea? I think the cold temperature would cause the ink to expand and leak but I wonder if they would dry out slower this way. Rotring Rapidograph refill cartridges cost and arm and a leg.
Hi- I don't think it would help. I think the ink will evaporate at about the same rate, even if the caps are on tight. With a colder temperature, you risk the ink "congealing" a bit and then sitting there. I personally would clean the pens completely before you go. Sorry.
@@junktube4000 the jewel tips are for drawing on acetate- they may also work on mylar. You might find them scratchy or wearing out very quickly on paper. I have mostly stayed with the stainless steel.
@@LaurieOMeara Ooo, darn, I was hoping they might be less scratchy and have better performance. I used to also think all the Jewel tiped nibs were meant for mylar, but there are two different kinds of jewel tips; Tungsten tipped and sapphire tipped. Apparently the tungsten tipped ones are meant for mylar and I think the sapphire ones might be able to be used on paper. It's hard to get info on these things, they're so vintage.
I know that the ink in "Rotring Rapidographs" aren't fully waterproof, and the nib sizes are slightly lager per size then the Koh-I-Noors. I think the Rotring Isographs are even larger per size then the Rotring Rapidographs, slightly.
The materials, construction, and overall durability of the Koh-i-noor is, IMO, far superior to the Rotring pens. I've used both, and the ones I own are Koh-i-noors. They cost a little more up front, but since they last a lot longer, they end up costing you less over the life of the pen. I have some Koh-i-noor Rapidographs that I bought in college in the 1980s that are still working perfectly today. And I recently picked up a vintage black-barrel Rapidograph that--after a little effort, is clean, and works like a champ! I would NEVER buy a used Rotring. They just aren't made as well, and if you let the ink dry in them and they get really gunked up, they are VERY difficult to clean, because the plastic they are made from doesn't hold up well to aggressive cleaning solutions. If you are serious about using a technical pen in your art, do yourself a favor, and spend the extra money to buy a real Koh-i-noor. You'll be glad you did in the end...
