Climbing Training Board Comparison: Moon vs. Kilter vs. Tension - Which One Is Harder?

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I visited Whetstone climbing gym and there are 3 most popular boards in it, which are Moon, Kilter, and Tension. We compare the difficulties of one V3/V5/V7 on each board!
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26 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 170

@4nickjay 4 года назад

As a coach and someone who trains on a kilter board a lot most of the value(for me) comes from the variable angle of the board and being able to take easy/moderate climbs and make them near impossible by increasing the angle and using it as a training tool. In addition to creating climbs that isolate my or my students weaknesses. Likewise since anyone can make a climb on any of the boards how hard the climb is is less dependent on the brand of board and more on the climb you select, who made it, and if the grade is even accurate given that there's no oversight or indication of the creators experience level. All that being said I love videos like this and I'll be trying all the kilter climbs you guys did when I'm back at the gym! Keep it up!

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I totally agree with you and the kilter board is definitely my favorite among all of them!

@ripperfisher182250 4 года назад

The tension board in my gym is adjustable, though I dunno if that's a feature all ship with. But difficulty actually does vary significantly by hold choice and friction. If you compare the friction you'll see how big of a difference they are. There are not many jugs on the tension board, also the pinches and crimps will feel horrid at 35 degrees. I feel that it does limit training for beginners(hold slipperiness and types), but I don't think boards are ideal for beginners because of the restriction on possible moves and repetitive nature of board climbing. I feel they ought to do more interesting routes or they may come to hate climbing. Board climbing should be viewed more as a hang board that actual climbing at the end of the day so I wouldn't toss v0 climber on any of them, just don't think they'd enjoy it much.

@climberdad 4 года назад

Great video! I like the tension board because of the mirroring, the kilter board because of the design and the moon board because of the community behind it.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Yes! I wish my gym had all three of them, too, haha.

@MattVentures 4 года назад

Man, my new gym has a tension board and i thought i was being a wuss when i couldn't do so easy climbs! Nice to know I'm not crazy lol

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Haha, that was probably the hardest V3 in my life!

@MattVentures 4 года назад

@@GeekClimber I believe it, the tension board seems to be a good challenge

@flip_lange 4 года назад

Climbed on a tension board twice and I also found it super challenging, especially remembering which hold to use, because somtimes you can't see the LEDs behind the holds while climbing. But, I think it's similar to the moonboard: it takes some time to get used to, untill you are familiar with all the holds and what you need to do, to be able to hold them and then it gets better. I love those training boards, they're my favourite tool to push myself to climb harder.

@undermykeyboard 4 года назад

These boards are all harder than your average graded gym routes. takes a bit to get used to using them but they are great for trainning. I have a Kilterboard at my gym and i spend most days trainning on it and ive already seen great improvements in my strength. Ive tried all 3 and the Kilter is my favorite.

@ckokomo808 Год назад

I can climb V5 and a few V6’s. I tried a tension board yesterday finally and was struggling on V2’s 😂 At least there’s lots of room for growth!

@zacharylindsay2302 4 года назад

Was scrolling through and saw the thumbnail and was like "damn that looks like my gyms set up" turns out it is my gym🤣 hope y'all grabbed beers at the bar afterwards.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

We climbed until the very last moment, so the bar had already been closed when we finished, haha.

@shadowmage680 4 года назад

Only criticism i have is to really compare them you should have climbed benchmark or benchmark equivalent problems. The ones you and rockentry did on the tension board have like 2 repeats and were set by random people. The one garrett did you was at least set by will anglin who makes the tension board. Speaking from experience ive been basically shut down on some WAnglin V2-3s and flashed random peoples V5-6's on both sides. Other than that great video/concept that i think will help you engage with the community more! looking forward to trying these ones!

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Thanks a lot for the suggestion! I am fairly new to the boards so I asked Garret to pick the problems for me this time. For the next board video, I will definitely pick benchmarks problems to climb!

@timothygats Год назад

The takeaway was the the tension boards holds were slippery aside from the problem itself

@crescentfuze 4 года назад

If I could have a single one of any of them, I would definitely go for Kilter board! (even better with a dark board colour hehe). Can go to ridiculously steep angles, and the lighting feature of it is by far the best (and coolest!).

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Same here! Kilter board is my favorite among all of them!

@MelanieRobertson03 4 года назад

Yeah we have KB at our gym and the light system and comfort level of the holds is so much better

@kayfodisch8399 4 года назад

i dont think the boards are comparable like that, it highly depends on the problem you choose on each board, theres sandbagged ones and easy ones for each grade on each board

@davidoakes7782 4 года назад

Great collaboration. Always like seeing you meet up with other climbers I follow on RU-vid.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I always tried my best to reach out to other climbers on RU-vid to make things happen!

@alltheway3 4 года назад

I’ve never heard of the kilter board before, my gym has both tension and moonboard but I always get lost with the lights. Kilterboard lights look super useful!

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Kilter board is my favorite! Part of the reason is definitely because of the lights!

@deez_gainz 4 года назад

Man its so cool that you are doing board episodes, would be great to climb with you dude!

@imagzz4942 4 года назад

I'm so excited for our gym to get a moonboard. Even though I would prefer the Kilter, we simply don't have the money or space to get one (tiny gym with no more than 190 members atm). Can't wait.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

That's so awesome!!

@Tripleyou 2 года назад

My local (small) climbing gym is getting a Kilter Board and I am STOKED!

@KilterClimbingGrips 2 года назад

Awesome!

@gnarshar 4 года назад

So stoked on this video! I love board climbing and wish youtube had more videos on them!

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I will be making a lot more of them, so stay tuned!

@dark-o 4 года назад

Great collaboration 💪

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Glad you like the collab!

@jonkrause6714 4 года назад

Well done. Totally liked the various styles, support and sass-ha ha ha. Never really knew the difference of the boards. When an opportunity presents itself, will try them. Thanks-guys! 🤘

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

You should definitely try them out, Jon!

@kickmonlee3390 4 года назад

My gym just recently got a tension board to accompany their moonboard, but I haven't really trained at all on them. Now I am super pumped to try the new tension board out and give the moonboard some love too!

@MrSchafonator 4 года назад

aah what a great video!! Im so psyched to try this moon board V3 tomorrow =)

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Yes! Go for it, man!

@alexbarnard1372 4 года назад

Keep doing more on the tension board!! That’s the only one I got around my area!!! Great video by the way!!

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I have a Tension board video planned in 3 weeks! So stay tuned!

@alexbarnard1372 4 года назад

Geek Climber sweet! I’m looking forward to it!

@ejl74 4 года назад

Cool video! That gym looks amazing.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I was totally blown away by it when I stepped into it!

@pert4361 4 года назад

Niceeee! Literary contemplating which to build!

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Haha, have you made up your mind yet?

@Jsoccer1999 4 года назад

Moon or tension fore sure. Tension beat for getting strong, moon also gets you strong but is a lot more fun and holds have more variance

@pert4361 4 года назад

@@GeekClimber most likely moon! :)

@fufumccuddlypoops5502 4 года назад

Love these Colab videos!

@victorialee3975 3 года назад

this is really interesting but i just noticed that the far right handhold on the tension board v3 is displayed as purple on the app, which would mean just a foothold, but blue on the board. this would really change the problem and make it even harder

@ledzep369 3 года назад

I STILL DON'T UNDERSTAND THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THEM. HELP ME.

@brenttsuji3031 4 года назад

My personal rating from difficult to easiest: moonboard tension kilter

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I thought you are really good at crimping haha, surprised to know that you think the moonboard is the hardest.

@austrianmountaingoat 4 года назад

Great vid Geek! Would love to see you do some moon board problems. Just starting on the moonboard myself... :)

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

There’s a MoonBoard in my gym so the videos are definitely coming!

@flubberamoebes 4 года назад

We had a Kilter board at adidas rockstars this year and I spent a couple of hours playing around on it... I love the texture and shape of the holds (the lighting is also dope and much easier to read than on the moon or tension board) and feel like it’s the most conducive to big dynamic moves while also still providing plenty of smaller holds to crimp the shit out of. Love it :)

@KilterClimbingGrips 2 года назад

Thank you!

@KyleAndersonSkates Год назад

the gym I go to just replaced their tensionboard with a tensionboard 2 and it's amazing, it's a mix of wood and plastic holds

@awwsomeeonez2085 Год назад

ROFL!!! The first 10 seconds in I hear a NICE followed up by the gnar fall

@davidnguyen5936 4 года назад

I'm so glad it's not just me. I can climb some benchmark V4s on moonboard but v0s and v1s are a struggle on tension board

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Tension board is definitely the hardest among all of them!

@doronbroitman26 4 года назад

now do: Former Average Guy Learns the front lever pls

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

In the middle of learning it now!

@doronbroitman26 4 года назад

Thanks man

@edwardsamson1677 Год назад

That’s crazy. My gym has a tension and a moon board and everyone finds the tension to be the easier of the two.

@stavbarmeli1067 4 года назад

You are damm good at what you do💪🏻 keep it up🔥🔥👌🏻

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Definitely, glad you like it!

@dustinhansford8270 4 года назад

Just bought the grip block from your review, and can't wait until I get past this minor a2 pulley injury to use it. Wish I would have known you were in Colorado, would have loved to meet up for some light bouldering.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Haha, I did announce it on Facebook and my Instagram story since there isn't a good way to do it on RU-vid.

@dustinhansford8270 4 года назад

@@GeekClimber I'll follow you there then thanks for the reply and heads up.

@ollie-d 2 года назад

@11:25 Ayyy grotto 1 back in the day. Now we've got more boards ;)

@Jagknorr 4 года назад

I started board climbing the last two gym visits and its soooo addicting. I dont recommend hang boarding afterwords though haha.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Haha, I totally agree with you!

@mark69064 Год назад

Some routes are underrated in board apps, today I just got an all-shit-holds(original school holds) route on Moonboard, and just a V3. But I need to say, for moderate climber, training board is very good for enhancing finger power than just go bouldering.

@frictitiousclimbing4991 4 года назад

4:58 - am I right??

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

😆😆😆

@ianbrannan9608 4 года назад

i think that the problems you chose on the Moon Board were some of the easier ones for the grade. I personally think that tension and moonboard are similar difficulty on average.

@AEClimbingTV 2 года назад

Quality content!! I wish I had this setup so awesome having all three boards in one gym!

@the.Aruarian 4 года назад

Take a shot everytime Geek Climber says nice ;)

@omallykaboose 4 года назад

all system boards benefit hugely from aggressive downturned shoes to out force into small edges on an overhang. i think its time you switch shoes and did a comparison of stiff shoes vs soft shoes (as i don't like people calling stiff shoes beginner shoes as they have their place well beyond the beginner phase and many manufacturers actually recommend a soft shoes for beginners; la sportiva maverink.)

@littlelawson06 4 года назад

omallykaboose with 81,000 subs I’m sure one of the manufacturers would throw some shoes his way. He probably produces more content then most athletes!

@0supernova081 8 месяцев назад

Weird, I managed a V7 on the Tension board but I couldn't do v3 on the Moonboard

@theunmobablespes6582 Год назад

Can someone easily explain what the difference is? They look almost equal all three.

@NorthOCkook 4 года назад

@Geek Climber what angle is your gym’s Kilter board set to? I am relatively new to climbing and can send V4 and some V5 in my gym but I cannot even send a V1 on the Kilter board. The board I’m using is set to 50 degrees from horizontal

@KilterClimbingGrips 2 года назад

Try 30º or so and see how it goes, then adjust from there!

@David-ud9ju 4 года назад

But if the climbs are rated at the same grade, one board shouldn't be more difficult than another. If one board has slippy holds and one has grippy holds and they have a similar route and hold design, the one with the slippier holds should be rated as a more difficult climb.

@brandonsparks5786 4 года назад

You should hit EarthTreks Golden while you're here in my neck of the woods. The have nice roof sections in their lead walls. Downtown Denver has Movements bouldering gym too. Welcome to my home crag, Oswaldo!

@yesoer6635 Год назад

This is a pretty old video but I thought I’d just leave my experience anyways : my gym has a moonboard which is ~2 years old I think and a new kilter board at 50 degrees. On the kilter I can easily climb 7A , which feels reachable on the moonboard benchmarks but I haven’t been able to send it yet.

@DavidWKimber 4 года назад

Climbed on a Kilter board for the first time yesterday and loved it! We messed around at 35 degrees and then 70 (!!) degrees. I was flashing all the 5's at 35, so got a really good workout over about 2 hours or so. Trying 6's at 70 degrees was -intense-. Make sure you designate what angle your specific board is at next time (yours looked like about 45 I'm guessing?). My board is also the smaller one at 14x8 (yours looked like the big 'un (14x14?)).

@NarutoUzumaki-hj2hb 4 года назад

Geek climber’s fore arms are insane actually everyones fore arms are insane because of the huge ass grip climbers need

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Yea, if you climb regularly your forearms will become strong naturally.

@lukasz-dg5rn 4 года назад

Doing one moonboard problem is not a good indicator of difficulty... actually - moonboard grades are not good indicators at all - those grades are really horribly mixed. E.g. I once did a 7b (which was quite hard even for 7b...) and on the same training I found a 6a+ (yes, 6a+) with exactly the same holds minus one hold, so much harder version of that 7b. Moreover on 2017 hold-set almost each single 7a+ is more difficult than any 7b or 7b+. At the same time some 7a blocs are ridiculously easy, like no effort at all, while other are probably closer to 7c. Moreover if we compare 2017 and 2016 sets , then we will find out that 2016 set was way easier than 2017. I always found moonboard grades confusing and inconsistent. Imho there's no point trying to compare grades on moonboard while even 7a boulders are not 7a but something in range 6c-7b+. xD

@nickr8702 4 года назад

I think they're all great training tools, especially if you're a frequent climber and your gym doesn't set often. My gym sucks and only has one of the boards with a grid system (no lights/markers). It makes it really hard to visualize and remember the route. Therefore, I never use it. I'd rather re-climb existing problems.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

It sounds like you should switch gyms! Can't give them your business if they are not doing a good job.

@nickr8702 4 года назад

@@GeekClimber I'd be all for that if there were more gym options. Looks like I need to move.

@Xenoxen34 4 года назад

thats just practice man, we dont have leds in our gym as well but ican easily remember each holds of a problem, just practice it☺️

@mckalewirnsberger1910 4 года назад

Where in Colorado is this gym ??

@KilterClimbingGrips 2 года назад

Fort Collins

@darkexcalibur87 4 года назад

Omg you are so close to me!!! I go to Whetstone sometimes. Are any of you located in Colorado?

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Garret is!

@alexmalafeev5344 4 года назад

I've climbed on all 3, and I built a Tension Board in my apartment to train on. You can't rely on friction and past the jugs there aren't too many great incut holds. The feet are more slippery too.

@olivierdebruin3484 4 года назад

Alex Malafeev this means you find the tension board the best out of the three? Could you give me insight in why? Thnx

@alexeymalafeev6167 Год назад

@@olivierdebruin3484 Hi Olivier, I didn't see this comment for 3 years! I have a climbing garage w. all 3 boards, angle adjustable. I really, really like the system board mirrorable aspect of the Tension board -- I can climb the same problem left to right and right to left. This makes training balanced and similar strength on both sites doable. I find that on the harder climbs on the TB (say v7/v8+) there are many problems I can only do one side. So training up both sides is really a good goal and something I continue focusing on.

@olivierdebruin3484 Год назад

@@alexeymalafeev6167 Nice! Thanks for your reply ;)

@jared3165 4 года назад

Haha @andrewscott2395 lurking in the background at 4:00

@jimjones2287 4 года назад

Hey GC, can you do a video on foam ball rolling and stretches to help recover fast? Thanks ;)

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I will do it once I learn the front lever! Otherwise, I don't think I have enough street cred for people to take me seriously, but you are right, I am really big into recovery.

@SeraphinoII 4 года назад

I saw the board as too tendons intensive, i fear for injuries. And usually they don't really teach how to preserve you energy but just to power through problems, which is fine for bouldering but not for the rope in my opinion.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

There are V0s and V1s in the Kilter and Tension, and they are generally less crimpy than Moon. Did you have a chance to try them out?

@SeraphinoII 4 года назад

@@GeekClimber Unfortunately in the gyms near Milan i found only MoonBoard, but who knows i could found the kilter or the Tension in an another gym! If i will have the chance to try them i will! But i will wait a long time before trying the Moonboard! Thx for the answer!

@gavin8249 4 года назад

How is your finger injury coming? Did it hurt to be back on a moon board?

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I feel 100% recovered now. It’s been 4 long months but I am back!

@wesleythompson3917 4 года назад

Awesome video! Whetstone is my main gym I climb there all the time, sad to see I missed you guys. Are you and Rockentry still in Colorado? If so will you be returning to Whetstone before leaving?

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

It was a short visit so we are already back in California, but I can say for sure that this won't be our last trip to Fort Collins!

@johannesjojo6199 2 года назад

I only climbed Kilter and Moonboard and I must say, if you climb for a long time only kilter board and then switch to moon you can't do a shit there. I can climb on kilter 7a and on moon 6b+ xD

@Outlabyrinth 2 года назад

Thx ! Could you compare moonboard 2016 vs 2017 vs 2019 I can’t find any comparison online ????

@andrewle2476 4 года назад

Come to Vital in Oceanside and we’ll climb the tension board together. I got V0s down!!!

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

OMG, there’s a tension board in Oceanside?! I am definitely going to visit Vital in the very near future.

@christinecelestial5024 4 года назад

Where is it

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

It’s Whetstone climbing gym in Fort Collins, Colorado!

@baaiiimmmm 4 года назад

wow, that was fun xD

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

It was super fun!

@mattikeller1781 4 года назад

are they all 40° angle? i feel like the 25° moonboard grading is wayy easier than the 40° moonboard

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Yes, they are all angled at 40 degrees!

@DerButzemann94 4 года назад

You probably have strong arms/fingers and a weaker core if steeper climbs at the same grade feel harder to you

@mattikeller1781 4 года назад

@@DerButzemann94 I have really strong arms for my level, but quite weak fingers since im still a beginner. I didnt think my core was the problem til now, but maybe thats what i should focus on more.

@DinoTamer23 2 года назад

What angle were. The boards set too in this video?

@leoingson 4 года назад

Is the tension board probably about getting used to its less friction (wooden holds)? Or are the problems just ridicioulously sandbagged (WTF)?

@sethwhite4155 4 года назад

You can also climb longer on wood holds b/c your skin doesn't get destroyed.

@Cacovangor 4 года назад

Bla Blum because of the reduced friction of the holds, the main style of climbing each of the boards targets is magnified. Done well, a problem on the boards requires an intense core engagement and driving through feet with the potential of feet cutting. Having less friction means the core tension has to be maintained for longer because recruitment strength cannot compensate enough. Hopefully that makes sense. For me, that is why the moon board is probably the best tool because the holds have good texture but are poor angles and better replicate climbing hard boulders outdoors.

@leoingson 4 года назад

@@Cacovangor I think I understand, thus the name "tension board". Interestingly, v7 guy calls it "very outdoor-esk" :) Aren't cutting feet a major risk for finger injuries?

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

The holds on the tension board look bigger than the holds on the MoonBoard, but they feel equally crimpy and have less friction as well.

@abiyanfathan8266 4 года назад

Literally shocked at 3:41

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

😆😆😆

@hyau23 4 года назад

The real question is... Which one is cheaper

@imagzz4942 4 года назад

Asking the important question, haha.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

😆🤣😆

@shmalts1 4 года назад

Tension is “the” board. Best for training. Love the moonboard so fun and while the kilter is mostly just soft, has the best power training applications with its intended design of super steep angles. The three of the them make a happy three :)

@angel-bi5qw 4 года назад

Average guy learn the Straddle Planche in 40 days until he can stand for 10 seconds

@Karmakameleeon 4 года назад

i want to know are the climbs in each app typically comparable to outdoor ratings? Or is it similar to how the crux move on a v7 in many gyms wouldn't even be a v3 move on real rock.

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I don't think I am qualified to answer this question so hopefully, someone will jump in to answer you!

@Mrperson662 4 года назад

much closer to outdoor ratings than most gym problems. it’s pretty tough

@m.wunderlich4942 4 года назад

They are usually pretty legit. Especially the benchmark problems on the moonboard (selected by Ben moon) are absolutely comparable to outdoor grades.

@pokefox493 4 года назад

3rd

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

Glad you tuned in so promptly man.

@laputahh 4 года назад

The amount of dabs in this video omg

@mongoose1804 2 года назад

say sumthin for the camera man 😐😐😐😐

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

It was super fun climbing with rockentry and Garret!! Be sure to check out another video we did: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NtKSWLTsKRc.html

@rockentry 4 года назад

It was fun climbing with you guys! I will have my vengeance on that V5 Ethan Eighty2 problem. It will be mine... oh yes... it will.

@frictitiousclimbing4991 4 года назад

@@rockentry hardest v5 I've tried on a systems board!

@hyau23 4 года назад

Do you climbing the 2017 MB set or the original?

@frictitiousclimbing4991 4 года назад

@@hyau23 we climbed 2017, my favorite.

@BlocBusters 4 года назад

when your gym has to much money to spend and has every e-board :D

@GeekClimber 4 года назад

I think it's a good investment. These boards draw more customer.

@Lilwayha Год назад

Classic short climber saying "i cant reach that hold" without even trying. seen it way too many times. If your a shorter person stop comparing yourself to the lanky guy next to you. I swear they just want to not be able to reach it so bad.