Just changing the fluid would have made a huge difference as old fluid will have collected moisture causing it to boil quicker. Those higher spec discs and pads will keep their performance better at higher temps so less drop off in performance as laps clock up. Not surprised there wasn't a lot of difference on the road. Upgrading the rear too much isn't a good idea as it's not uncommon to see track cars locking the rear wheels as lap times drop when more weight is transferred to the front on super sticky tyres. I've even had rear lockups going around the alps in a loaded MK2 Caddy van going hard on the brakes into corners. Never happened when I was running the discs and pads it came with even when lapping Nürburgring.
Love the series. I recommend getting new rear bearings and take the new discs and bearing to a friendly garage and have them press it in. Then you guys can just fit them DIY!
Probably wouldn't have fitted those new pads to the old discs, they'll got clogged up with rust, get the new discs fitted and carefully clean those pads with some new emery cloth. Great vids
Well done guys, I have never taken so much interest in a clio sport before, but loving this series. Looking at those rear disc wear marks, there does not seem to be much contact patch with the rear pads, ie one third outer area around the rim looks to have been untouched, is that normal for these cars. ?? also would it be advantageous to get hold of some 6 or 8 pot calipers on ( ok i know its probably overkill but just a thought.) second hand from eBay or is the cost too prohibitive vs the cars value. Keep up the good work chaps. !! .
Nice channel &series. Nice car modifing! As Mentioned by others, swap all 4 tyres for some good sticky rubber. The difference will be huge. Keep up the good work! Please test again then, curious about the results.
Tires are the key here, and suspension and bushings basically everything chassis wise comes into account, as for the rear brakes stick to the new disc and just take the time to push in a new bearing rather than pulling the old one, future proofing or preventative maintenance
Nice series this great editing and good detail , a 10ton press will be invaluable guys.when you put the brakes back together did you clean and grease the slider pins up ? Nice work 👍🏻
damn boys some blocks of wood and the right size socket that fits the out side race with a hammer will do the trick...backyard press. even a bit of hear with a heat gun..... the biggest thing is to size your socket or pipe or what ever your using to the outer race and make sure there are no dingging issues etc.... I just bought a bunch of alumnum round stock in different diameters for bearings and seals. i also use nylon round stock if things are really sensitive.
The rear hoses that are crimped to the hard brake lines are already high pressure hoses, hence do not require replacing. I would also echo some of the other comments that genuine Renault rear discs and bearing last significantly longer than any after market options
The rear brakes do next to nothing on these without a bias valve, do some hard driving and give the rear discs a touch - you’ll see what I mean. If you do change the rear discs pay special attention to the shims that are fitted between the disc and the hub, sometimes they bind to the disc and if you arnt looking for them you can end up fitting new discs without. Your also missing hub caps that fit over the hub bolt, not that they do a whole lot mind. Looks like tyres are holding you back at the moment, AD08R and NS2R’s are a popular choice.
Why less fluid is wasted when pressing the pedal? It sounds a bit counterintuitive. By the way, as I suposed and your test has shown, changing braking components doesn't improve braking distance. If the brakes have the power to block the wheels are already doing all the force you need. You will notice and improvement with pedal feel as you show and brake fading. What a great series!!! Can't wait to see the track test!!!
Hello boys nice videos with details!!! I will be changed my front disc with brembo max 259mm and ferodo pads this week this moment the car have too hard pads when i brake and the are hot i hear a sound like metal to metal the disk also reduce at 18mm , will i see a big change to my brakes? I also have replace all tyres at August 17 with goodyear efficiency Grip 195/50/15 and all my abs rings that was damaged but when i press hard the brake the ABS is working overtime the serbobrake is working perfect says the brake technician . I also have done a wheel alignment and i have not any other damage
1. Rear Brake lines : do them yourself, you can find DIY parts for braided. 2. Buy new rear bearings, they're cheap. Go with them and the disc to any car repair Shop to be pressed together. 3. Take care when replacing the rear discs, NOT TO LOSE THE SHIMS !!!!
Once you get the interior out of the Clio, arm yourself with a heat gun and a paint scrapper, if you remove all of those sound deaden patches on the floor and roof you will be amazed how much it adds up to!
I would estimate about 20kg. I have been preparing my Clio 172 for competing in a road going class in sprints and hillclimbs. I have to keep my full interior so removing the sound deaden was a good gain for me. Its easier than you would think aslong as you apply plenty heat with a heat gun, then i used tar and glue remover to remove the residue. Air Con delete kit would also be very beneficial as compressor etc is heavy. Also there is this really odd cast iron weight just under the offside engine mount must be about 2kg!
Might wanna get rears done even though it may be a pain, the braided lines at front may cause the rear none braided lines to over pressurise possibly burst
I’m guessing the real difference here is that on track the pads and disc will last longer without fading, not a great difference in stopping distance in your one or two stop test, if you did 5 laps, that gap would be much bigger.
no need for vented discs front and rear on these, oem spec brembo HC discs were great on mine I ran them with minted 1155 and ATE200 fluid and it stopped quicker and more aggressively. wouldn't use EBC yellow on any of my cars on track there terrible.
Just stumbled upon this series, subbed! Do a suspension overhaul, with sway bars, coilovers and bushings on the 7th episode. Btw, my ocd is suffering with the rear rotors! Keep it up
An excellent idea. Will def be upgrading the suspension in the next few episodes. I agree, the rear rotors are really bothering me too! Gonna get them changed asap!
Waste of time & money changing the rear pads as they do very little on these cars. Also you would be better putting genuine Renault rear discs on as the bearings come already pressed in & the bearings don't fail like aftermarket items do.
I don't agree. Changing the front and rear pads to the same compound allows the car to stop a little quicker. Often the car will be a little flatter also, rather than pitching forward. Still think you should overhaul the calipers, as binding in an old caliper will cause the brakes to drag. Use to overhaul calipers in my race car at least twice a season. Tyres will now be the next big improvement.
Probably in a heavier car Gavin your logic works but not with the Clio. The rear breaks do next to no work at all due to the weight of these cars. A couple of my friends have race prepped 172's that they use in a race series at knockhill & they run standard discs & pads on the rear.
