I've been having problems with plan sales so I have begun selling with Etsy. This also means you can buy plans with PayPal. Check out my store here: www.etsy.com/au/shop/ParabellumArms
Привет чертеж обоймы куда резинки одеваются и крючок с зубьями чтоб они могли выстреливать сможешь именно этих деталей дать чертеж бесплатно хочу применить его в своих изделиях. Пожалуйста очень нужно если не сложно.
hey parabellum, i love your videos! they have inspired me to create some of my own videos, but one thing i would like to know is how you come up with your designs. do you just think of them, or do you draw up plans?
my gawd rubberband guns came along way and there still kicking i cant believe it but i just made a popsicle stick pocket pistol rubberband gun found it somewhere here on you tube it was simple enough to make so i made one
Do you have any video explaining your blowback rubber band gun mechanisms? Such as that in your mag arm 1 submachine gun, how does the mechanism actually work?
i have been subscribed to your channel for a long time now and now would like to build one of your models do you have any advice on the methods i should use and the equipment that i need?
+parabellum1262 that would be very use full as I and a number of my friends would like to attempt lots of projects like yours but we lack the skill and the knowledge of what equipment we would should buy
vicoshel Have you considered local interstellar commercial layovers? Not too bad sitting in cargo as long as you can deal with possibly being crushed alive. Other than that, quite comfortable.
Hi parabellum, I'm running into problems. When I cut parts on my scrollsaw, I'm getting a lot of tearout despite using a selfmade zero clearance insert, same for the drilling with backing. Makes it look rubbish, inaccurate and a lot of your designs, that I like to modify, are really based on accurate and crisp lines. How do you personally deal with this problem, do you have some tips and tricks? I'd love to hear from you. And remember: Si vis pacem, para bellum!
I use a scrap piece of thick MDF for drilling. It just sits on the drill press table and I hold the parts down with my fingers. The MDF serves as backing and I get no tearout. For drilling larger holes, I clamp the parts onto the table so the drill doesn't wander. You'll see that early on in the video. You need to move the backing plate each time you drill so that the bit punches through into fresh wood each time. Not sure why your scrollsaw is doing that. I fitted an MDF plate to it so the blade passes through a 5mm hole but a zero tolerance insert should be better. Try to cut with the grain when you cut angles and curves. I don't use particularly fine or good quality blades either, but different types may work better. Having only bought my scrollsaw a few months ago, I'm definitely not an expert on the topic but I hope that helps!
Are these the plans that are needed to build your M1 Garand? Or is that a separate tutorial that you're still working on? I know the body of this gun isn't for the garand, but the mechanism look similar?
There isn't a tutorial for the Garand because contrary to what many people think, this is the improved version. The trigger on the Garand is far too heavy.
Is there a notch on the fixed part of the frame (upper 'rail') near the front end where the front sliding part can 'latch' on to when it is under tension from the loaded state? Or is it just held locked towards the front with pure friction?
Matthew Green Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Teach a man how to build his own precision clip-ejecting band rifle and all which stands in his way shall burn in the forsaken fields of retribution for all eternity.
