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Thank you! I inherited a Sligh clock that I believe was made in the 1990s. Have been researching how I can get the mechanism out to oil it effectively since I am unsure how long it has been (though I do know my sister had it serviced). In any case, having watched your "other" video, I could not get what I learned to line up with what I see on this clock. This video seems to line up nicely in that my clock has the four screws on the face as you demonstrated. I kept anaylyzing trying to figure out what would happen if I removed them, but could not see the solution. This video seems to have solved the mystery for me. At least now I feel like I can give it a whirl to get the mechanism out for oiling (which I have researched studiously).
Mission accomplished! I removed the door that covers the clock face first by removing screws from the hinge. I was able to remove the mechanism still attached to my clock's saddle mounting board without removing screws that held the mechanism through the board where the cables pass through. My board goes fully from side to side near the access doors and was not the roughly 12 inches as in the video. After removing the 4 screws and the mask board, I was able to lift the board to clear the hold-down bolts, tilt the clock face out the opening, and then lift the works out at about a 45 degree angle toward the front until I had to rotate everything to get the board to clear through the front opening. Now I can blow it out and carefully oil.
Thanks for the video, this model is tricky compared to your 1st video! What are the steel straps (arms) on either side of the hammers called and what are they for? They don't touch anything nor do they move. My clocks have'em too and I hope you can identify and explain 'em! Thanks again, your videos are appreciated.
Hi, if you get me the numbers off the back plate of the movement I can get you a replacement movement. Or you can send me a picture of the back plate to my email jrclocker@gmail.com
