Yes, and I'll stick this comment to the top. I actually downloaded a vibration monitor app on my phone and did multiple before/after tests. I spent a TON of time in excel trying to tease out the results, but just couldn't get anything consistent. I tested the RPM range from 1k-6k RPM in 1kRPM increments and there was a really big difference. The sound/feel of the machine is very much smoother, and at certain RPMs the difference is very noticeable (harmonics I suppose). Since the data was more or less useless, I didn't include any of it in this video, and I actually deleted it out of frustration so I won't be bringing it up later either.
The old human measurement systems are pretty sensitive, I would not think the cell phone sensors would have enough dynamic range. Hard to measure, but everyone knows what smooth sounds like....
Hey Sam. I didn't say, but it is 6,200. I run them at my max though, which is 6,500. Some day I intend to go faster, and at that point I'll start looking for a higher rated bearing.
Thats good for tapered bearings, I still have the stock bearings in the mill and was planning on going with the AC bearings for more RPM but things always seem to change as I go. Please let me know if you have issues with these. Be Safe, Sam
nachi-tool.jp/bearing/sdata.php nachi-tool.jp/bearing/sdata.php ...... looks like the number is an iso standard look for 32005 and 32007 nothing else and you get the other brands too the 32005 is used in kawasaki and suzuki motorcycles as a bearing in the steering
I just did the same bearing change. I haven't done a belt drive upgrade nor changed the motor yet, and I'm fairly certain I have my preload too high. Runout looks to be less than 0.0005 with my crappy surface indicator. Really happy. Way better than the AC bearings I was running. Thanks for sharing this, Russ!
I'm glad to hear it! I'm pretty sure my preload is to high too, as I'm getting a little more heat than I would like. I'm not sure it's going to be a problem in the near term too. I guess we'll see :)
Hi Russ- thank you for your video work. I was wondering about the high-speed conversion. I see that you are using the stock motor, What happens to the low speed torque? Thanks, Howard
Hey Howard. Are you referring to the belt drive on my mill? The stock motor isn't going to do well with a high speed setup as it's pretty weak. I burned it up a few years ago then went with a 2.8HP DC motor and it was OK at high speed until I burned it up. Now I'm running a 3phase AC motor and it's in a completely different league.
9K subs for this type of quality info/work makes no sense! Just be patient Russtuff, only a matter of time before others jump on board. Well done bud, quality vid here
I was wondering when the angled contact bearings were going to start giving higher run out. Hoss has some good stuff but I think he also has time to play and modify. Russ your videos rock, my stock bearings are still good but a motor upgrade is lying in the wait or bench. Thanks for all the info on your dime, saves so many of us our dime.
I'm running the stock head but I'll be upgrading soon. I have to use an oven mitt to change tool holders. That's not normal, is it? On another note, it's kinda funny how I've had to explain to my wife the difference between Nachi bearings and 'notchy' bearings.
My gear box was getting hot so I added a trans cooler, pump and fan myself and switched to gm synchromesh fluid and now it seems to stay right at 100-110 degrees max but the r8 holders can get up to 130-140. Not sure that those temps should be concerning yet other than changing tooling. Mine came factory with p5 taper roller bearings. The gear box doesn’t seem to be troubled and my speeds up to 8,000rpm with no vibration. I haven’t had any reason to really run it past 5-6,000 rpm even on aluminum except cutting polymers and it seems faster with alloy that it doesn’t toss nice uniform chips. More sliver like when speeds are too high. I’d like to consider making a belt drive but I also like the high torque ability of the gear box. Considering ac bearings but I’d probably buy nsk in a matched set. Ran them before in another mill with almost zero run out but they do cost $150 each. I may try these and see how they work.
FWIW, the Fanuc Robodrills we use at work (Leatherman Tool) have anywhere from .0002"-.0005" of spindle run out when brand new (10k rpm spindles). We don't have issues until we see close to .002" of run out from wear. I would be VERY happy to only have .001" run out from a small, cheap machine like this, .0001" is ridiculously good. I do wonder how accurate that Shars indicator is though. It would be interesting to see the run out with a higher quality indicator.
@Mr. Morningstar Actually Starrett's last word indicator isn't a great comparison to any indicator. Those who have had them for years pretty much all say the same that there one of Starrett's worst indicators. Long Island Indicator Repair says about the same on there website as well. Once in awhile some have mentioned there's do work well, but on average not many like or are impressed by how well they work. B & S or Interapid test indicators are probably about the best on the market today. I've got a couple of Mitutoyo's that I'm happy with fwiw.
@Mr. Morningstar Well I'd put money on a B&S .00005" test indicator beating anything from Shars, Grizzly etc. I've also got a not so cheap set of Chinese gauge blocks that somehow missed the fact on the fancy certificate of accuracy that 2 of the blocks measure and are marked the same. I've also got a 4" & 6" set of Chinese digital calipers where the grinding noise while moving them can be heard and they can't repeat to much better than .003", sometimes triple that number. They eat a battery every 2-3 months, I get 4-5 years on a battery in my Mits and there the most accurate calipers I've ever used. I didn't say some of the cheaper equipment couldn't be decent. But your not going to get it at a rock bottom lowest possible price. Russ's Shar's indicator proves that. A whole lot of the brand name and expensive metrolgy gear is even made in China today. As I said I'm happy with and know by testing that my Mit indicators are accurate and more importantly do repeat there readings. So yeah both are far more accurate and repeatable than the Shar's indicator in this video. After a whole lot of wasted money my findings are that the cheap stuff is almost always inferior and far from trustworthy. The one exception was a cheap pair of 123 blocks that do meet there accuracy specifications. So either you've been real lucky and I haven't, or one of us is wrong.
Yes that is the grease I used, but I didn't pack them, only lightly coat. My spindle is warmer with these bearings than it was with the AC bearings, but it runs super smooth so I'm not to worried about the extra heat. We'll see how they look in a couple months.
I do not understand what you are turning down with the lathe. Due to the camera angle I cannot see what you are modifying. To me it looks like you are turning down the gears.
Factory stock mills like this one come with gear drive, some of which are plastic. When you do a belt drive install like he did, you no longer use the gears. Typically, the belt drive gives you much higher rpm, and the gears are changed out due to the higher rpm requirements....
Yeah that may be right, I don't recall. I'm limited to 6500 for now anyway, but I do intend to take them closer to 8k at some point so we'll have to see how it goes. I'll report back.
Also as far as the splined shaft goes I believe the Grizzly g0761 and similar models come with those without the gears attached so for some that don’t want to machine the stock part they can consider one from another machine.
kind of a bummer the limiting RPM is down to 6200rpm. Did you spend much time looking for anything with a bit higher range? I did the AC bearings also and was surprised how much worse they were for run out. I just finished adding a servo motor for my spindle and won't be going over 6000 but would like to have the option some day.
+Michael Alcocer agreed. My Max RPM is 6500, and I'll continue to run at that. I'm not worried about smoking the bearings. No I haven't researched higher rated bearings but eventually I would like to go faster too.
How much did you "preload" these? I went a hair past snug and got a bit more heat than I anticipated during break in at 6000rpm. I let it cool off and backed off to a very light snug and am running it back up to 6000 again to see how it does. but I already noticed I doubled my runout. Went from .0002 to .0004 not much to complain about but I was happy to see the first number considering I knew I have a not perfect spindle.
There are things I changed that had to be rechanged, so I guess that's a yes. I would say the two biggest are: 1. Burned up to many DC motors before going to 3 phase AC 2. Went with a toothed belt drive instead of the ribbed belt drive I have now
But what does it say? “The word is near you, in your mouth and in your heart” (that is, the word of faith which we preach): 9 that if you confess with your mouth the Lord Yeshua ישוע (Jesus) and believe in your heart that God has raised Him from the dead, you will be saved. 10 For with the heart one believes unto righteousness, and with the mouth confession is made unto salvation. 11 For the Scripture says, “Whoever believes on Him will not be put to shame.” 12 For there is no distinction between Jew and Greek, for the same Lord over all is rich to all who call upon Him. 13 For “whoever calls on the name of the YHVH יהוה (LORD) shall be saved.” Romans 10:1-13
