Here I thought I would be posting original content on testing a CAI on an NA engine, only to wake up to this fantastic video. Well, two is better than none. Great watch - I found similar results on my Acura Integra (no vtec yo). There was an increase in power on the top end.
Joey Chong I'm not huge on link spamming so I didn't share it above, but since it wasn't obvious that I just released it here it is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-llKZdUyoz14.html
I don't know why but I get this passive aggressive vibe between your channel and MCM. Although they probably filmed this before you filmed your video they seem to piggyback off of your ideas and its kind of unsettling.
Biggest improvement is the NOISE!! Love that intake sound, its also much more dynamic than the exhaust sound, very quiet at low throttle and loud at high throttle!
On older cars it’s not just noise because the factory intake is garbage compared to the new intakes. I threw a cold air intake from a keep Cherokee onto a Buick rendezvous and it made the acceleration so much faster after I removed that small box filter. You won’t get supercharger numbers but on an 06 car I guarantee you’ll get at least 10 hp because your car couldn’t breathe.
Pro tip for all of you looking to get a cold air intake. Buy a cheap CAI kit on ebay, you can find them for about $50. Then, measure the filter that comes with it and buy a K&N or AEM replacement filter that is the same size. Replace the filter and you're good to go, and you just got a high quality CAI for around $100.
+Travis Pfeifer Doesn't PVC offgas some nasty things when it gets hot? I used ABS to avoid that, but not 100% sure if it's actually a material concern. Worth looking up, though, would hate to foul up your MAF sensor or something with nasty PVC fumes.
+MrJamesonStyles I'm not sure if that's something anyone has looked into. PVC fumes and MAF function...best guess is it's more dangerous for humans. K&N filters do have confirmed problems for MAFs however. Increased gunk on them and all of your intake. If this is not all cleaned up, regularly paper is better. Paper may still be better even if it's all cleaned up. MAFs for example already fail a lot on my car, the count may be 1 or 2 less without a lot of K&N filter time. 5th MAF in 140k miles. (Though 1 was just because new from the factory it was messing up fuel trims.)
+MrJamesonStyles Plus, PVC offgas is at temperatues that my intakes don't get to, even in the hottest of my summers, so a nonissue in most NA car unless you're 110 degress F plus...I haven't witnessed the data that hot.
+DE “AutoBravado” Nichols you must live where it's cold all the time then cause my Camaro in the summer will easily see 140 idling in the hot 100 degree summer heat.
firts thing boost the s2k and second ypou should consider coming to millwaukee wisconsin or west allis wisconsin to be specific we have a great car scene here that marty will hate cuz hondas everywhere
Mighty Car Mods Clearly the people on your forums are god damn idiots and have ZERO clue how a car engine works. It's essentially a giant air pump. The better you can get a larger and colder charge into the engine the bigger the bang you're going to get. Bigger bang means more power, taking out the very restrictive factory intake which is more designed around keeping noise low than making better power is good step in getting a little extra horsepower.
Watts come from Joules, a universal measurement of energy. The only system thats stupid is the Horsepower measurement, based on a dude testing with fucking pony's. The only idiot here is you, sorry for the bad news.
I did a K&N intake on my 05 S2K AP2 and i noticed the gains for sure. A noticeable amount of low end torque and for sure higher power in the high end of the rev range. Plus the sound is worth every penny! Great vid!
i would love to see you guys do a cold air vs stock air box on a late 90s early 2000s car like a mercury grand marquis. this stock box is just that. a box with a flat square filter. lets see what us regular folks will get from cold air.
Late answer… but absolutely agree 100%. Some people are convinced they either never work or always work and it’s annoying because there’s dyno data which shows they do in fact give you gains (depending on the car and setup) or lose hp if they are poorly designed.
My buddy had a cold air intake on his rx-8 and it made more power BUT, he also had a piggyback ecu, modified exhaust and the car was professionally tuned. It sounded like a beast until he blew the engine.
Factory systems are cold air intake systems(most). All the aftermarket ones do is eliminate the noise baffling and smooth the air inlet a bit. If the factory air box is not restricted, the throttle body, cylinder heads and cam profile are the only way to increase airflow. Short term fuel trim will correct changes almost immediately, so there is no “lean advantage.”
The S2000, like you said, has a very efficient induction system. On a real world environment in the US, by that I mean lots of expressways and interstate highways, you will see a small increase on an Accord or Camry or another family car With a K&N snorkel system. You probably won't see anything noticeable with just a K&N with the factory air box. As for a true performance car, don't expect anything as the factory induction systems are all optimized.
A new intake tube and high flow filter in stock air box on my Chevy pickup resulted in almost 18+ hp and lb. Across the power range. Only created 2-3 hp at peak. But across the spectrum I noticed performance gains that were worth the small investment
Sports car? Yes. High Performance? Mmm: I'm not gonna say it's a high performance car. An AMG GT? That's something I'd say _that's_ high performance...
8 лет назад
You're unlikely to see performance gains with a cold air kit on something more mundane either. In fact, didn't they do a pod filter test on the Blue Turd? while that isn't a cold intake feed system with the bonnet up and the dyno fan running at full tilt it showed no increase in power, in fact the factory intake made the most 'power'.
If you're chasing tenths of seconds on a drag strip maybe, which would be stupid to be doing on a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder car with less than like 100 kw to begin with. But you're not going to feel a difference unless you're making like 50< kw (67 horsepower), which why would you even waste time doing pseudo-performance mods on that trash of a car to begin with? And there's not really that many things you can do to a slow N/A car to get enough to feel something without just turbocharging it. Still a great result from a numbers standpoint, but not enough to matter
I've got an '03 Protege5, and it's pretty upgraded for a N/A car. When I put the intake on, it was mostly out of boredom, and while the bottom end and mid range power were exactly the same, I definitely noticed a slight difference in the top end power. On top of that, it saves room in the engine bay, and it sounds cool...because race car
Wow, 177hp at the wheel, that's about as much as my 96 Grand Cherokee. Kinda sad on my Jeep's part considering it's a 5.2L V8. After I installed my Cherry Bomb Turbo muffler, I got 7hp and 7tq more, couldn't believe it. 184hp, 239tq from a motor twice the size in a 4x4 that weighs 4000lbs with an outdated 4 speed auto. Next mod's a name brand chip(not a cheap ebay one like on an older episode).
Anthony You don't think I realized a difference in weight when I mentioned the Jeep weighing 4000lbs? Also, it's "their" not "there". Not as bad as Paddy's comment.... Paddy, I know it's outdated, if you read what I posted, I flat out said it's outdated. At the same time, I don't see many DOHC engines in top fuel drag racing. 8000hp from supercharged HEMI based engines.
Not really surprising. I think I read somewhere that the S2000 engine at the time had the most kw per cc of displacement for a NA engine. The Cherokee V8 is probably a tad overbuilt with reliability and low end torque in mind.
+bailey allaby first of all ford can suck my shifter and play with the lug nuts and all you ricers need to "drift" off a bridge or just drive into a ford dealer/ junkyard and just leave it there to rust away
You guys should put a cold air intake on a highly restricted, inexpensive and low performance but not utterly pathetic car and see if it makes a difference. Like a Toyota Matrix or something.
Too many people don't realize that with some cold air intakes, you add 10 feet of tubing to draw air from the fender. When you do this the added restriction defeats any gains you would get from the colder air. The best intakes use large short tubing to an airbox that is fed separately.
Wind provides much cooler air than a dinky fan in a dyno room. Wind also creates resistance as well.... I would say... buy a CAI if you like the better sound, the fact the filter is reusable and also buy a decent one, not some piece of junk off ebay .
But the point remains that even in a windless shop, the saw a gain in power, on an actual road it could have the potential for more power. Either way a lot of cars, mostly low end fuel efficient cars will see a loss of power from an intake, that isn't factory, because it changes the airflow, while the factory airbox was specifically designed for that engine. On performance cars, you'll see gains. But on a regular old Toyota Corolla you're probably losses a little bit.
On my Integra DC2 R I reduced lots of weight by using J's Racing Intake system. Checked on the dyno, similar results to your video! As for losing power down in the low range RPMS, I can justify it because I reduced tons of weight from the car and the car doesn't feel sluggish at all down low rpms. As for sound...that's totally up to the driver's preference. Love your videos guys! My DC2 is 998 KG and generating 252 HP NA B20VTEC.
I know this comment is over 2 years old but: The British and Australian use an intrusive R. Any word that ends in an A, they will put an R on the end, if the word coming next starts with a vowel. "Honda car".... is normal, but if the word following starts with a vowel: "Hondar is nice".
Yeah, they made a video of it laughing about it, saying it's a guide on how to add more horsepower using decals on your bonnet. Since then it stayed there, 'cuz you know... Performance lol
I got excited when the RX-8 was mentioned, nobody talks about them. hardly anyone near me has one, wish there was more for me to see to decide where my build should go with mine.
Hello, I am from Argentina and I own a chevy Cruze 1.8 aspirate, which brings in the interior of its original air filter box, an aerodynamic entrance of plastic of the type Intake. This funnel-shaped rounded entrance is on the clean side of the filter. From the dirty side of the filter enters the air that comes from below the gurda mud, this air enters through a small conduit with curves and very intricate. The modification I made, was to cut the plastic box containing the air filter on the side facing the car, the cut was like a window across the width of the box, which is almost not noticeable . Through this window, air now enters from the engine compartment to the filter, this volume of air adds to that coming from below the car. Conclusion ... my chevy improved in low and high notably, revolves quickly, something that has always criticized this car, is more agile at the time of departure and gained in elasticity when en route. The improvement was very significant, it is another car and all with just make a hole in the bottom of the original filter case. My next step will be to buy a K & N flat filter, which I think, will allow to increase even more the air flow. Comment: At the moment of acceleration you hear the sound produced by the Intake Kit.
idk you might get a tad bit more power on an older none performance car. the s2000 is designed with performance in mind. so its air intake is already performance oriented. take something else like a popular early 2000s late 90s honda civic dx. which its airbox is not made with performance in mind and you might get more of a noticeable gain.
I was wondering the same thing; why they chose sports cars that are already developed for power. why not use say an economy car/ car with a mor restristive system. like yhe guy said RX8's lose power if you mess with the air intake system which I have heard before, does mean all cars lose power if you change the parts that where "finely tuned from the factory." what I am saying is that they could have used a RX8 for this test and said cold airs make you lose power, look at the dyno results... also what about a car with a larger intake manifold? do you use the stock air box? pod? cold air? ram? Im not refuting, just putting the idea out there.
interesting fact, on my 1990 dodge w150 with the throttle body injected 360 pre-magnum motor i did gain a very noticeable increase in fuel milage and far better water/air separation when splashing around off road by getting rid of the stock round air cleaner and replacing it with the intake system and box off of a 2000 dodge durango with the magnum v8. seem to be leaps and bounds better with more square inches of air filter which by simple logic should mean less restriction at the filter itself. now on another note i used black rtv silicone at all the areas where air could leak leading from the throttle body to the filter which im sure helps as well.
You guys should read the "David Vizard" books, you will learn a lot about flow, pressure and temperature effects, even though his old works are mostly orientated around naturally-aspirated.
Some Episodes like the honda civic build would be great! Building a car from the scratch First it smells like scrottom but at the end a masterpiece is born (even its all fake like on the civic wich still smelled)
It's a complement mod, for something that needs more potential. Tuning Fork is awesome. The only other thing is that some of the manufactures who make nice systems spend as much time as the manufacturers to produce an effective product. Love the show, love what you guys do.
the other thing to remember is that the cars they did are preformance oriented cars were bolt on's don't do that much. On a civic or other commuter cars the gains will be bigger because the factor intake was designed with less preformance in mind.
It all comes down to each individual car. If I expected to see gains, it would be on the top end of a naturally aspirated engine, but even that's not always the case. My car is a great example. It's a moderately modified (extensive cylinder head work, amongst other things) NA engine, and I've gone through all sorts of intake configurations. Bizarrely, with the factory intake in place, I get severe detonation in the midband, and really, really shitty gas mileage at highways speeds. Cold air intake, no power down low, but lots of noise. Ended up doing some custom 2.75" piping from the factory airbox to the throttle body, then modified the factory airbox from a 2" inlet diameter to a 3" inlet diameter, maintaining the forward resonator box, and the thing runs smooth as silk from bottom to top, and factory quiet to boot. Dyno numbers went from ~145hp (108kw) to ~180hp (134kw), with fuel economy around 25mpg city/38mpg highway. On a car originally rated for 19/28. Airflow isn't just about volume, density and speed. Four cylinder engines in particular benefit from the laminar flow created by a properly-tuned resonance control system. The turbulence created by removing intake resonators can negatively impact the performance of the engine, and its ability to properly burn fuel. The change in sound that you hear when installing a cold air intake or an aftermarket cone filter goes both ways. If you can hear it, it's traveled to your ear from inside the combustion chamber. The "rougher" the sound, the more turbulence in the intake air stream. On a fuel-injected engine, turbulence has a severe negative impact on wet flow characteristics. Food for thought. :-)
I really wish they did it for different cars to show the variety. For example, on my car the airbox generates massive amounts of vacuum at above 4K. The maker did this on purpose because the engine is design for performance, but the car is designed to be economical, so they restricted the air intake to stop people reving it up so quickly for better economies. The maker actually sell an official replacement that they use on their rally cars, and it transforms the engine
I agree. some factory cars have terrible intakes. Like the Camaro SS, LS1 cars and trucks. my Colorado picked up 1.1mpg by deleting the OEM resonator box. intake is loud as shit now, but MPG is MPG.
OK so not only did the mightycarmod guys get surprised by the fact that cold air intakes actually do work. But there is also a lot more to consider here. 1. The CAI is lighter, not huge but weight reduction ends up adding up here and there. 2. It looks much better and is smaller, much more appealing engine bay and more room to work/clean. 3. A tune will help, sure your cpu might adjust for the difference but not as well as an actual tune for the specific parts you installed especially when its more than just a CAI. 4. More intake noise, this is a preference thing but 99% of people willing to put on a CAI wants to hear it roar too. 5. Change/clean the sensors, there are a couple sensors in the air intake alone like air temp and MAF, changing or cleaning off these sensors can offer more accurate readings to help the cpu get a little more efficientcy out of the new mod. Getting performamce O2 sensors can also help make the most out of intake/exhaust mods. 6. Ablity to clean and reuse the pod filter instead of having to buy new paper ones, this is a marginal benefit but is worth mentioning. 7. And also the biggest thing aside from it making you 7 horsepower is the fact that a CAI is just a stepping stone to other mods that definitely increase power,. Things like bigger throttle bodies and bigger cams, require bigger and less restricticed air intakes. And you would look dumb installing cams into a car and still using the stock air box You have to remember your not just paying for more horsepower you are getting at least 7 benefits from this, these guys need to get off the wagon of CAI being a waste of money and reaslize that people are going to start with the basics if they are going to upgrade something. I would like to see these guys take a highly modded engine and then see how much of a difference a CAI is vs stock box.
But if you know anything about s2000s you know they don't make any power with basic bolt-ons because from the factory they are already at peak performance only way to make power is to go force induction
The reason I slapped a cold air intake on my MK5 DSG GOLF is the 100% gain in smile factor with the gulping of air I get, seeing as I can't put a BOV on it lol
David Hill you're not looking at it right. your typical piston engine has each cylinder on a different stage at any given time. for instance on an inline 4 every 90 degrees of crank rotation a different cylinder is firing. all 4 cylinders will have fired in a single crank rotation. to compare the rotary you should think of the 2 rotor engine like a 6 "cylinder" as each rotor has 3 sides in a different stage like the piston engine. 1 side has compressed and fired while a second has powered and is exhausting, and the third is intaking a fresh charge. the firing order alternates between rotor 1 and 2 (like the firing order jumps banks on a v6 or v8) the ONLY similarities between the wankel and a 2 stroke are higher power vs displacement and the insane rpm redline. both are from less friction, fewer moving parts, and mass meaning less energy lost from combustion ( linear motion to rotating motion = lots of friction as do timing belts / chains, camshafts + pushrods or followers and valves of which the rotary has none) there's more to it, but that's the broad strokes.
David Burton David, good explanation; thank you. Wikipedia has a good demonstration video of the Wankel cycle running, as well as youtube. I rebuilt a rotary engine back in 1975 when nobody knew anything about them. Seeing how the rotor moves about in the rotor housing along with the ring gear, stationary gear and eccentric shaft; it twisted & nearly broke my brain.
Sorry to say guys after all the work you put in but you are the right people who install the weather station in the cellar. Well, what would you expect to improve if the car stalls in the dyno ? who is gonna blow air in the duct for an atmospheric engine ? St. Peter ? I would expect you to put car on the race track or motorway and run it high speed so air be naturally blown into as is moving through. Speechless
Stock paper filters on intakes also trap more debris which will help you with the life of your engine. High-flow performance filters are not as effective in capturing micro-debris. That debris builds up and can be seen later in the throttle. It's like shaving off your nose hairs, they are there for a reason, not crucial but with merit nonetheless. I swap my paper filters with K&N filters when I know I will redline and enjoy a nice drive. If you do keep your cold-air intakes... make sure you upkeep regularly.
How about Torque? Cold air intake kits, with LARGER area air filters, not TINY POD filters do make more power, torque and better fuel economy. It improves much greater with a free flowing EXHAUST system to allow intake and exhaust system to be matched with efficiency and flow. Your mythbusting busted nothing, you put an overly small POD filter which does breathe the same as stock since it is sized TOO SMALL.
+Budget Boosting Okay, that's a very good test. You've given me an idea for another video. I did one on the right temperature of an intake and how to manipulate that, that it's not always about being colder, you can get too cold for your build, I did, depending on weather.
+Budget Boosting Even removing the intake and running the throttle body naked wouldnt increase airflow. You could put a 6 inch intake pipe on a stock engine and it wouldnt make a lick of difference, if it did it would be a negative effect. The first few seconds of the video actually described pretty accurately why factory intake systems are very efficient and effective.
floridabrn If Im not mistaken, didnt that Honda have other modifications done to it? A modified engine can certainly take advantage of more air flow. So using a modified car to test the results doesnt really explain whats happening.....an aftermarket intake on a stock engine will actually be worse, as you MIGHT gain 1-2HP at the very top end, but you will most likely however have less torque at the low end which will result in poor fuel economy and those high flow air filters will most likely shorten the engines life as well. 1-2HP isnt even a noticeable amount of power, and chances are the Dynos that show even that kind of improvement could have had other variables that triggered that difference.....your car will vary HP output just from the slight difference in the quality of the gas.
3:48 would a stock ECU work the way that hes describing but be programmed to assume it is working within the capacity of the factory intake. eg- if a fault like a dirty intake occurs the ecu will accommodate by lowering the fuel, however it wont accommodate INCREASE in air flow higher than expected from a brand new factory intake out of (manufacturer's) fear of lean spikes? For example on my car (turbo charged) when i first installed a larger SRI, i took the car for a short drive to test prior to a reflash of the ecu. car was EXACTLY the same. I changed to the new appropriate ECU map suited to the new intake and suddenly the response of the car was massively changed and some noticable increase to torque. Feedback would be great. Thanks :)
+brad ley I don't think rich spikes are nearly as dangerous as lean spikes, so I don't think the manufacturers would be too worried about that. For the example in your car, it may be that the reflashed ECU needed the new intake, more than the new intake needed the ECU map, if that makes any sense. In other words, the stock intake might have provided more than enough air for the stock ECU, but not enough air to get the most out of the new map, especially if it turned up the turbo boost pressure.
There is a benefit to installing some types of air filters, however. Some, like K&N for example, are washable and reusable. This will allow one to wash and reuse it many times, sparing one from having to buy new filters. Saves $$!!
Really good watch, I always thought that CAI didn't make a difference for many of the reasons you mentioned, I guess for now on I will let someone have it when they tell me "oh i can feel the increase in power"
Thank! It's time to save up some money and buy myself one of those cold air intake! Thanks for the videos. You saved my money on buying one of those small supercharger that doesn't actually work, and you let me know the cold air intake actually works on a naturally aspired engine. It is a good investment. I am going to get one in a few months!
On most cars removing the resonator would make the airflow uneven thus causing a hiccup effect going into the intake manifold/throttle body. A cold air intake will add HP to any system in which the stock design is restrictive and when the stock application was not built with a performance oriented design. Let's use a 1989 isuzu pick up for example,An AEM Cold air intake will improve hp by atleast 3HP because the stock system is not so good in terms of getting a good flow of air to the engine. Now let's take a Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS with the Factory improved upon induction system,Which was designed and troubleshooted to the best of the engineers abilities too make more power of the base GT model,this application already has excellent flow therefore your likely to not achieve any gains at all by tampering with the stock design. So I assure you all,that this video can be misleading and that Cold air intakes do add substantial power gains,AS LONG AS THE CARS NATURAL DESIGN HAS WEAK AIRFLOW
What you say doesn't make sense. What is a hiccup effect? Resonators provide tuning to sound and a specific power range. Cold air intakes will always improve power. I don't mean those cone air filters that draw air from the radiator or the engine bay. I am specifically speaking of any intake that draws air outside of the engine bay (ambient air).
However there are also tuning effects with resonators and length of the intake on NA cars. Replacing the stock intake with a bolt on cold air can reduce power if the tuning is lost. For the most power, draw ambient air and turn the intake for the power band you want
What the hell is a hiccup effect? I'm not just asking because of the fact that I've removed the intake resonator on many cars of mine/my friends and had nothing happen other than the car sounding better, as well as removing clutter from under the bumper, but because I have NEVER heard that term used in an automotive sense.
One thing not mentioned and quite difficult to prove - negative effect on the durability of the engine... If the aftermarket filter has larger pores, it will let more dust particles into the engine.. That's the only reason I don't put an aftermarket filter on my car, since there are a lot of gravel roads in Latvia :D
It also depends on the pipes you use and how far away/ size of the air filter. If you had a tiny filter and a small intake and make both bigger while making the tubes hold colder air without heating up it causes your car to naturally let more air into the engine in result your mass air flow sensor with tell the ECU to put more gas into the engine. That’s when you do it correctly. Most people do not they just buy the kit online and install it thinking they’ll gain 10hp.
hey guys I totally agree with u on this, ive owned corvettes , mustangs, Hondas, and the cold air intake is all bullshit. I actually felt my cars got worse gas milage on all cars and noticed nothing for a power gain. im with you guys u this cols air intakes is all bullshit. my 2 cents...
all a natural asperation motor needs is a small air compressor very similar to a nos kit, injected right in front of the mass air flow. instant boost and the computer will adjust the fuel pressure. if done right, you will find about three psi during compression. depending on the engine, it amounts to about five horse and ten tourqes
My 1998 Prelude came out before the S2000 and it came with a factory cold air intake. I can't believe the S2000 box would not also draw air from a port or some other outside air source. I stopped and watched the factory intake go in and it's a cold air intake.
Figured I'd comment since this will likely be the most popular video on the subject for awhile....So I feel that CAI/SRI intakes are valuable depending on a few other factors, for starters diameter of the piping....I have a 3.5 Intake which is an upgrade over the pvc 2.5 stock tubing. I definitely noticed a difference especially when moving from a oiled to a dry filter. Another benefit of the upgrade was how it opened up a hole area of my car hidden by the intake box and mounts. I had an issue where my cold pipe kept popping off and I would need to pull over and spend 10-15 minutes removing the airbox to get to it in my car. I would imagine this design would only increase in heatsoak and hope that by opening it up, the air that would go to the stock airbox is instead traveling across the top of my engine, hopefully pulling heat out. Driving a Turbo down South is no joke. Of course the biggest selling point is visceral and changing the sound of your car so you can hear spool and bov (if no maf sensor) is a good way to enjoy the car without driving recklessly.
WOW 5 KW, so basically you have to drive the car at over the REV range around 5,000 to 7,000 RPM to feel anything, for what a car that you cant legally drive over the speed limit anyway ?
no just drive in a lower gear if you want to feel the extra power. German automatics have a kick down button on the floor that will put the car in the lowest acceptable gear when you put it to the floor.
I think this comment goes to show you don't know anything about an S2000 yet you're here commenting about the car as if you own one. If this is an AP1 red line comes in at 9k RPM and an AP2 comes in at 8k RPM, V-tec on a stock S2000 doesn't even kick in until around 5800-6k RPM. So no you wouldn't be driving it over the "rev range" you would be driving the car like it was made to be driven at higher RPM where the car makes most of it's power. I don't even know how to address the last part of your comment elaborate what that is supposed to mean? I think every car is illegal to drive over the speed limit last time I checked?
I think this comment goes to show you don't know anything about an S2000 yet you're here commenting about the car as if you own one. If this is an AP1 red line comes in at 9k RPM and an AP2 comes in at 8k RPM, V-tec on a stock S2000 doesn't even kick in until around 5800-6k RPM. So no you wouldn't be driving it over the "rev range" you would be driving the car like it was made to be driven at higher RPM where the car makes most of it's power. I don't even know how to address the last part of your comment elaborate what that is supposed to mean? I think every car is illegal to drive over the speed limit last time I checked?
I have been a fan of this show for a long time, and seeing how much M likes small cheap cars, how about modding an old Peugeot 106? They are cheap to modify and are such good starter cars for all young modders!
Well obviously he has had it for a while and overtime cars do lose BHP, especially if you dont service it or keep an eye on things such as oil or engine coolant.
I put the K&N short ram (they call it a CAI) on my Accord coupe 6/6. I like the sound, the throttle feels nice. K&N includes a dyno sheet claiming roughly 7HP/7lbFt. It was worth it to me.
The lesson is understand the concept of Cold air intakes (CAI) and not easily fall for the after market products calling itself CAI or removing an Oem that is already CAI.
So how did you 'bust the myth' here guys? That was a crap CAI and it still made money. A really well designed.. dual inlet from the front bumper from big trumpets fed into the stock box will easily double those figures, probably triple and give you a cool 15Kw at the wheels. More over that setup will make the car sooooooooooooo much more drivable, tractable and generally easier to drive providing more toque and less vulnerable to incorrect gear selection. It won't choke the car when you are in too lower a gear, probably improve fuel economy (never measured it)...well the list of reasons NOT to do it are too short.....and the list of reason to do it are to numerous.. however I stress, short run intakes removing the factory box are unlikely to make any real difference as you need the cold air from the front.... .
To summarize, a Cold Air Intake from a reputable manufacture really does perform what is intended, but there are various factors that will effect the benefits. If you drive a stock civic, the engine is optimized for efficiency, low noise, and cost. Not much heat is produced, so the benefits from a Cold Air Intake would be small. But, if you modified your engine to run fuel rich, and hotter in general, the benefit of a Cold Air Intake is furthered. In the other video featuring a turbocharged skyline, a turbo deliberately compresses air to much higher densities, rather than using cooler ambient air, so the need for a Cold Air Intake is null.
One thing worth mentioning, there must be a factory restriction in order for the cold air intake to actually help. You'll find a proper intake set up on more modern cars than on the older ones, but people keep doing the same things that used to work in spite of the fact that engines are engineered better than they were back in the day.
Sadly, another misinterpretation of a rotary engine being a two cycle but whatever. It's good they did this but I'd like to point out that not every intake creates power. Indeed most of them take away. For instance, there are only two intakes that increase the power on the RX8. The AEM/MazdaSpeed cold air intake and the Racing Beat REVi Intake with the cold air inlet.
There are plenty of intakes for a Subaru FA20 that will boost the power of your RX8. Assuming, of course, you're willing to change out more than just your intake.
Realistically, a tuner such as Cobb Accessport will free up the computer and properly utilize said components far better. As with all modern automobiles, they're set from the factory with specific air/fuel specs and therefore gains will always be minimal, if any. In my humble opinion, the best mods to do on the RX8 that really matter are the BHR Racing Ignition coils and a SOHN 2-cycle oil adapter. Promote a cleaner and efficient combustion while providing the proper oil for lubrication that burns away with no residue or soot. Not to mention the obvious benefit of running a high quality synthetic oil with no worries in the oil sump.
But their science only applies in certain situations. Maybe the higest end cars are fine tuned to start but once you slop on more parts and if you have an older car specially; then these things have uses. For my 97 the people who have the fastest made version of those 89-97 cars agree you need more airflow. These people dont need a "professional" to tell them how to build cars when they have the fastest ones and run them on tracks and dynos to prove it. The variables are still so vast that it likely helps on a few cars. My car is designed to take in cold air but many that is not can probably gain because my car does perform better with even cooler air in cooler weather.
I designed a ram air/cold air intake system on my mustang and it dropped IAT's by a shit ton and kept them low even after long drives, way easier to tune when IAT's are consistent
What the guy said about the learning the engine does is very true. The engine will recalculate how much air the engine is taking in. Putting a CAI on your car will only really help if you get a tune with it. Yes a few horsepower will be gained without a tune but the combo can get you much more.
![Cold Air Intakes Mythbusted [Naturally Aspirated]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
