Fantastic content. So few people are talking about stuff like this, or doing much than repeating common cooling myths. CFD has shows that the coolant flow VELOCITY through the tubes is WAY more important than previously, though, too. -This is where I think at a certain point there can be challenges with 2x1.25" wide tubes, or the event wider extruded tube radiators -they seem to need to be combined with high flow water pumps and thermostats to keep the coolant in turbulent flow. I think C&R / PWR said that when the coolant in a radiator tube moves from turbulent to laminar flow as it slows, the cooling efficiency can drop by 50%. Theoretically, these radiators with more coolant flow area through the tubes need either more water pump flow or dimple tubes to increase internal liquid turbulence. What was your crank to water pump pulley ratio for this test out of curiousity? Cold Case is the only one with those 2x1.25" tubes for ANYWHERE NEAR that price point. They're pretty crazy value. My critique is that sometimes the Cold Case radiators come with smaller inlet and outlet sizes when larger ones were available from the factory for the same radiator. I'd love to see those big 2x1.25" tubes not being restricted by tiny inlets and outlets. I also think they really should be letting people know that the big tubes work BEST with high flow water pumps and thermostats, too.
Thanks Adam... agreed about laminar flow, versus turbulent. In my readings, that has a bigger impact on extracting heat from the block, which is also related to the type of coolant. Anyway, my crank to water pump pulley is pretty close to stock, but I do have a FlowKooler pump. I think my next experiment is using a dual flow radiator, also from ColdCase as I like their internal design. Thanks for the comment!
I'd be interested in seeing a video where you adjust your coolant to water ratio down to something like 75% water and 25% coolant and make sure you have at least a 16 PSI radiator cap and do the test one more time. Just add a compatible anti-corrosion / water-wetter product to provide the extra corrosion protection for the extra water. I did NOT realize you were using Evans coolant! An even more interesting test is possible: Evans vs. A typical 50/50 glycol blend, then remove a calculated amount of the coolant blend (using an online dilution calculator) and add enough distilled water and an anti-coorosion+water wetter product to do a final 75/25 water to glycol blend. -The Specific heat of your coolant will improve every time and the viscosity / flow due to the reduced viscosity will, too. At 180F, +14% coolant flow is required to make up for the decreased thermal conductivity of a 50/50 blend vs. pure water, I don't know the difference for pure propylene glycol, but it's not insignificant. -Might even convince you to stop running Evans Coolant... If you think you'll do it, let me know and I'd be happy to donate $20 somewhere to help cover coolant costs for the test. The Net Heat Transport Capability of 50% propylene glycol is almost exactly 1.5x as much as the 100% Propylene Glycol
Ha! Nope. Not gonna change from Evans coolant, i love it. As you know, it has no water in it, which raises the boiling point dramatically. Evans' site has some great education on why it works so well. To your point, water helps with heat transfer, BUT, it boils too easily causing too much pressure, and possible cavitation, when both are combined, BOOM. Good thoughts, non-the-less. Thanks!
@@FastMonty I know what Evans SAYS. But there's many reasons why almost every form of racing uses pure water, high volume pumps, and high pressure radiator caps. Faster coolant flow and a higher radiator cap pressure will also resist boiling dramatically (282F) AND will give you way lower engine temps vs. Evans. Evans is trading more boil protection that you don't need, for higher engine metal / coolant temps that are quite beneficial. Takes only one easy test to prove it either way and "good content". Drain the Evans, replace with VP Racing High-Performance (30% Propylene Glycol / 70% water.).
Where did you get the large A.N fittings for your radiator? Can you do a quick video on power steering hose routing to remote can. Thank you for all you do sir. # lifesaver!
Hey Chris, good question... this video summarizes the radiator hose and AN Fittings, etc... I'll be briefly covering my hydroboost system when I install my new Wilwood Master cylinder. In a couple months? Stay tuned! Thanks for the comment.
Hey Monty Do you have any part numbers for the cold case rad and fan set up your using? I've also been building a 69 goat with a 468 torque monster and i'm not wanting to use the stock rad and or shroud fan combo. I really like your set up and thanks for the videos
Thanks Glenn... you'll have to search the radiator on their website, because it'll depend if you need the built in transmission cooler, or not. Then, buy the SHROUD only. See my latest video as to why. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pYkuNP1RnoM.html Don't forget my discount code when shopping at Cold Case. Thanks again!
Again great tutorial i have a cold case on my 65 lemans but have not started the car yet... any thoughts on using a anode (Flex-a-lite Radiator Zinc Anode) i have one installed on my alum rad on my chevelle
Thanks Steven! The jury is out on using an anode. I know it can be worse with coolant that has water in it. I use Evans Cooant, which does NOT have water. So, maybe that's why I don't see any residue or damage?
Great video and WOW the detail !! , Thoughts on dual fan setup vs single Lincoln Mark VIII fan? I have heard many people use the Mark VII fan with minimal customization with the same controller you used. . CFM rating and AMP draw are very close yet you save on $$$.
Thanks Raffi. Yup, Mark VIII fan's work great. HOWEVER, they only have two wires that pull 40 amps. Versus twin fans I'm using have four wires pulling 30 to 40 amps total. Moral of the story is the Mark VIII fan connectors are a trouble spot and must be upgraded in size. OR, some other work around as to not fry that connector. Thanks for the comment!
Mine has been working great! The only thing I'd recommend, if you're using electric fans, is to buy the Cold Case shroud/fan kit, then upgrade the fans to SPAL fans... here's the video I did on that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-roExpEcuAKM.html (Don't forget to use my discount code for that new radiator! "FastMonty") Have fun!
Awesome video thanks for the content! Looking to buy this radiator. What are you thoughts on it being made overseas and how do you think it compares to other USA made brands like Griffin?
Not sure it matters where it's made.. the design of "wide Tubes" works. Griffin makes an awesome product too! You can't go wrong either way... have fun!
Good question... the sheathing on the fans, came with the fans. But, if you're referring to my engine wire harness, that's the Painless Performance "PowerBraid". Hope that helps.
Hey my friend. It might be an illusion but it looks like the upper radiator hose doesn't have any give in it for when the engine torques on acceleration. From the camera view, it looks like a good hole shot might yank the upper fitting off the radiator. Very nice work.
Did you ever find the link for the petcock on Amazon? I have the cold case radiator and dual 12s on my 69 GTO, but recently one of the fans stopped working. Even so this thing stays very cool. If I can't get the second fan back online I'll go ahead and order the dual 14s from cold case. But the petcock would be a nice change! If you remember thread sizing, the link or anything else I'd appreciate it!
Good question, Peter. I don't know. I'd call them to find out... I'm sure they'll have some good ideas for you. AND, you can still used my discount code, "FastMonty". Let us know what happens!
That's a bummer... is there something "close" where you'd need to modify the core support? Sorry, I know nothing about 65 F100's... just thinking out loud. Let us know what you end up doing! Thanks for the comment.@@PeterHatch-mx7zc
Higher boiling point but way worse specific heat and thermal conductivity AND worse dynamic viscosity which reduces coolant flow. -You can increase the boiling point of a water-glycol mix by just installing a higher radiator cap pressure when everything is cool and have WAY better cooling than an Evans based-system.
Im using a summit 4 row radiator with a mechanical fan it works great..even in 90 degree weather in stop and go traffic it doesnt even run hot..im kinda afraid that it might be running too cold 🥶 …Anyways your videos are awesome!! I almost bought a 68 gto before I bought my k5 blazer..
That's awesome! If you haven't done so, I'd recommend a Mechanical Temperature gauge, just in case your stock gauge isn't "telling the truth". Assuming you are running cold, that's fantastic! You can increase the temp with a higher temp thermostat. Thanks for the comment!
I have a cold case on my 65 GTO. Fortunately the radiator does a great job of cooling with a single electric fan because there isn't enough room for 2 14 inch fans
@@WaveCrusher Great question... before you go there, make sure you watch my "How to Measure CFM" video. My suggestion is to do what I did and measure several fans BEFORE committing to a shroud. (I do like the Cold Case Shroud) Here it is ... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pYkuNP1RnoM.html
I installed a cold case in my big block nova in the spring, after having my engine rebuilt. It had a small block aluminum radiator before. Found no difference in cooling between the small block radiator and the big block radiator using stock fan. Wanting to keep under hood looking original. Now looking for another alternative
Thanks Mike... sorry to hear it didn't meet expectations. My favorite aspect is the change in shrouds, and fan size. Good luck on your hunt! Thanks again.
@@mikeburnett7028 Bummer. What about using the old radiator? Did that change it back to running cooler? This isn't the first time I've heard of someone getting their engine rebuilt, and it's suddenly running hotter. So many things can change in a build, it's frightening. (The biggest problem is the ground path from the stock sensor might have changed enough to give you a false reading, which is why I now also have a Mechanical Temp gauge) Just food for thought... keep us posted!
@@FastMonty the old radiator was for a small block. Less water and cooling capacity. Also before rebuilding, ran no shroud and had a cheap flex fan. Guess I’ll add an electric pusher on the front and see if that helps. Car is put away for winter now. Gets cold here in Indiana in the winter
@@FastMonty using a Derale 18” 6 blade fan. After looking at the box it came in, and pictures online, it may be backwards. Had it turned around the other way, but still got hot. Recently modified fan mounting bracket to locate 1/2 inch farther forward and reversed fan in the process, thinking that would help cause the fan has a curve at the top. Looks like the curve should face forward. Won’t know now till spring with cooler weather here if that helps.
