I used to be a swimmer. It's called interval training. It's hard work but it gets you very fit if you do enough of it. No one who hasn't trained knows what it feels like and how beneficial and satisfying it is. You didn't give up and you got this beautiful machine started
@@mykaskin I always like your videos. I've been trying to teach some friends a few basic knots. A bowline, a round turn and two half hitches, a reef knot, a clove hitch, a figure of eight stop knot and how to make fast on a cleat. Very basic. But they just don't understand how useful and effective these knots are. There are knots I don't know the canal traders would have used. I would love to know what they are
@@johnswimcat Hi John, actually I thought you are the John Melville I know personally hence the Morris reference. The main knot used on inland boating is the boatman's hitch (sometimes called the Tugman or lightermans hitch) you'll sometimes see me put one on when I'm mooring the boat. I mean to make a video of the knot as it's about the sjngle most useful thing to know on the canal.
I had a hand crank Petter in a fishing boat and had to loop the decompression cord over my foot and swing it at the optimum moment. I was always a bit worried the whole unit would break free from its wooden mounts and fall through the bottom. Ha ha.
Nice job, she’s running sweet as! I’ve got a Ruston and Hornsby in mine with an electric start, it’s still an event firing it up but you don’t have to have a lie down afterwards haha 😊
Not sure about the JP engines but later Lister SR, LR, ST, HA, HR, AND LT's all recommend straight SAE20 in summer, straight SAE10 in winter. Most people used Agricastrol multigrade which made the engines hard to start by hand when cold. The early LT's (concrete mixer engine) would fire OK at cranking speed but would just not overcome the oil drag. The single grade detergent oil was getting hard to get in the 1980's, does anybody stock it today? Some way of warming the sump would definitely help, cardio vascular surgeons don't come cheap, and they are not always around when you need them! At least its not a Bolinder, keep up the good work!
Not bad, matey! It's not the smallest chunk of metal to start by hand when cold. Thanks for showing us, nice to see Vicky again, it's been a while! Good luck with the repairs.
So much easier to disengage the decompressors when you have momentum , rather than to leave to a piece of string, unless you enjoy a little work out or torture ?
I think if you shorten or lengthen the rope by a bit so that it closes the decompression valve at a different point in the engine's cycle it would go much easier. If you watch where it starts the rope actually tangled itself a bit and caused the valve to close a bit sooner. Maybe this let the engine pull in a more moderate amount of air since it couldn't pull in air through the decompression valve too, therefore it wasn't as much to compress so there was enough momentum in the flywheel to turn it over compression. I don't know, might be worth a try or a bit of experimentation
Hi Mike long time no see trust you have had a good year, More vid's please, On your Stove pipe it just goes to show the Acid in the soot and the need to sweep it. Cheers
The Indians make a reasonable copy with poorer metallurgy and machining and sell them to this very day for use in the backwoods of third world countries to pump water etc.
Is it safe to assume that you seldom have to start it when cool or cold outside? There are, I believe, a few things that you could do to make it a bit easier, with and/or without AC or DC available. Good on ya either way
Sounded very fit when running, but a good case for a trusty CAV starter motor as an alternative to a coronary ? My JP1 is enough for me by hand, my JP4 is electric start. Heavy generator flywheels help I think. Good point made on oil to seal the valves. I sprayed some WD40 into the air intake at last JP1 start around 3 deg C ( first time in 5+years) and that encouraged it. Armchair engineer advice - check fuel rack slides freely and can shut off fuel on the closure spring to avoid risk of a runaway !
@@mykaskin Well it must keep you fit! Some bodgery with a friction drive might work and remember some cars had vee belt driven "Dynastart" units. The main problem here seems to be just getting over a compression stroke and the flywheel seems fairly small requiring a relatively high cranking speed in decompressed mode.
Reminds me of my 2 cylinder dumper. Starts OK in warm weather, but on a cold day?? The oil's too thick to get it to turn fast enough and I end up too knackered to turn it fast enough, etc. It's great once it going and warm though :o)
"This one thing makes cold starts easier" - what, giving it excess fuel. It is correct and so many diesel 'difficult starts' would be 'cured' by putting enough fuel in the engine but the facility is often not available!
Lister JP2 Heart Attack. A longer crank handle would help. Or better still a Starter Motor and Flywheel conversion. Need to do something before it kills you bud.
Somehow, I would get rid of that thing and put about a 10 hp newer diesel engine in it, with electric start. All that cranking etc. is for young folks.....and young folks do not buy narrowboats! Old guys do not want to go through all that. Wake up!
Good job it’s not your boat then! Have some manners and respect for this guy keeping a historic engine in use. It’s running sweet as a nut. Just because it takes some effort doesn’t mean it isn’t worth it and plenty of people old and young appreciate such things.
