Good work. It's gonna run like a monkey on dope. I've been messin around with all things Coleman fuel powered for a few decades, hundreds of stoves and more lanterns. I'd buy em at garage sales and such for a couple of bucks, spiff em up, replace/repair parts and sell em. I enjoyed it, but if I tracked my time, it wasn't gonna be a career. Haha! Anyway, I'm not telling you what to do or not to do, only recommendations based on lots of success and a few failures. 1. If the check valve is working, don't remove it. Even if you have the tool, as we both do. Pump it up with pressure, remove the stem and pump and pour a little fuel, carb cleaner, even soapy water(I don't like introducing water into the system so make sure you blow out the tube with compressed air and give it a shot of WD-40 if you use water) and look for bubbles. Even if you get just a few tiny bubbles, that's ok. It's only there to keep air from leaking back when pumping. The air stem is a positive stop when you snug up the pump knob. Reason? The pump tubes are strong but when you twist one, it renders the entire fount unusable. You can usually solve a leaking check valve with some spray carb cleaner and let is set unpressurized with the fuel cap off. This floods the valve and air tube inside that goes to the top of the tank that keeps fuel from coming back if there is a leak. Then install the pump and cap only, not the air stem, and pump it HARD to flush any crap out of there. You can repeat this as many times as you like, but if it sets for an hour, that's usually enough to get any gunk off the check ball and seat. Sometimes, if the air tube is blocked, it might take a week or more soaking. Removing the check valve won't help you clear the air tube. If it's still leaking badly, or still leaks with the air stem snugged down, go ahead and pull it for replacement 2. To troubleshoot a not so sweet spot in the pump stroke, remove the air stem and pump it. If the spot of resistance is still there, it's not the stem. Thoroughly inspect the pump tube for deformations. and check it the pump rod is bent or dented and is catching on the pump cap. That air stem wasn't bent enough to cause problems, though it may have a lump of goo in the pump rod, try easing the corners on the top of the air stem with a fine file or sandpaper or stone. The pump rods are usually just a tube with flats crimped in them at the bottom to engage the air stem. But somethings gotta be binding. Look for wrench or plier rash on the stem and inspect for clean smooth, but not sharp corners through its full length. 3. I Strongly discourage oiling the check valve, or over oiling the leather/rubber pump cup. It should be saturated, not dripping. Reason? Oil of any type will attract dust and dirt an can degrade over time and get gooey. This is not what you want in your check valve. 4. Those generators are possibly one of the best designs ever for control and reliability. But they are getting really hard to find and they cost an arm and a leg when you find them. The good news is, they are easy to service. Once pulled remove the gas tip, install the flare nut end but not the gas tip end on the EMPTY stove and pump it up with lots of pressure an heat the hot zone with a propane torch while opening the valve, The combination of heat and air passing through will quickly burn out all the nastiness and restore full flow and contact area like it was new. I made a handy attachment with pneumatic quick connects and a ball valve on one end out of 1/2 in pipe with various fitting for the end for lots of generator sizes. Screw on the right fitting, install the generator on it, start the air flow, and start heating with your torch in the hot zone. I get them to red hot and lots of nasty smoke comes out. You can shut the air off and light the smoke, which will burn nicely and not stink the place up near as bad. Let it cool, spray come carb cleaner in it and blow it out again with air. I don't recommend heating the valve block on the end to much, but haven't dared take that one to near red hot. Do so at your peril. All of my 400 series single burners are still have their original generators except one B model that I accidentally kinked while red hot. Lesson learned. While brass is very forgiving when hot, it has limits. Haha! I don't do this to be negative in any way. I do this because I had to learn my lessons the hard way and truly enjoy helping others enjoy their stoves and lanterns without fear of danger. As for operating them? RTFM, FTFI. Read The F-ing Manual and Follow The F-ing Instructions. Don't wing it. Don't ad lib bs into the mix unless it works better than the instructions in the manual and printed on most stoves. Absolutely try things and experiment. Just don't make a HOW TO video and post it with 6 foot flames licking your ceiling. That alone will scare any novice from ever trying these. That's the opposite of what I'm here to do. Anyway, hope this helps someone out there. Again, this is not how _TO_ do it. It's just how _I_ do it. Like chili and barbecue, there are lots of right ways and only a few ways to screw it up. Take what you like and leave the rest. Feel free to question, comment, complain, bitch, gripe, or moan. I'm a big boy and constructive criticism helps us all learn.
Mike GREAT info for sure, everything said helps. I had a good laugh about reading the manual and the 6 foot flames, way to funny. And yes that's why I like these little Coleman stoves, instruction are on the fount label and everyone should be reading them before lighting them or read the booklet if they have one for that stove. These stoves have very little parts to them and are easy to maintain. All it takes sometimes is a drop or two of light machine oil in the pump cavity to keep everything operational {depending on storage time}. I've not had to unseize or unblock a generator do to carbonation or nastiness as you call it. As for my pump, valve stem, mine rocked like a banana LOL After the video I took it back out and gave it another light bend in the right spot and now it's free as can be. The tube was fine no marks from pliers nor signs of indentation other than where its crimped square for the stem and the caps hole seemed OK. I think who ever owned this stove before me was a little rough on it while pumping up the fount?? who really knows. Carb cleaner, I use it on everything, nothing works better in freeing something up from any gunk. Dust, yeah dust is a killer. I didn't mention it in the video, I will next time, I use compressed air from a can that I also use in cleaning my computer keyboards and fans, which also works great on cleaning crap in the burner rings and or check valves. {quick clean}. Good constructive criticism / wisdom should be shared, it's up to the receiver to research it's credibility. Experience goes a long way. Thanks for leaving your comment. I sure hope that others can take away something positive from it to use for themselves when preparing to work on their Coleman stoves and or lanterns. Mike your experience and input is very welcome on any of my videos. Again thanks and take care.
@@danielcharbonneau222 Thanks Daniel. Don't use canned air if you're gonna heat it up. All the canned air I've seen is flammable. I think you could actually run a stove on it if you could work out the plumbing. haha! That could get exiting! Ok, I learned something new about the pump air stem then. Good stuff! I'll add that to my troubleshooting checklist.
@@mikemorgan5015 Hahahaha That would be a light show. No I just use it to clean junk out when it's not being used for a while. Then once everything is put back together and sitting for a bit I'll fuel it up and take it outdoors for it's first burn. Your welcome, I too learn new stuff everyday.
