Coleman CT200U-EX mini bike brake light installation (step-by-step) 

Hi How did you connect it? What light did you use?

That's what I'd do too. I don't want a battery unless it's there to run a starter. Of course, for mini bikes that don't come with a headlight they might not have an engine that includes a stator/rotor for 12v+ supply.

But if you add upgrades to the bike and end up replacing the stock flywheel with a billet flywheel then you have no choice but to cut off the charging coil and then if you want lights a battery is the only other option. I cut my charging coil off and just got a small battery that i gotta find a place to rig it on to and hook up a toggle on/off switch and run to headlight. I'm just debating if i should keep the stock headlight or replace the stock light with an LED light. I like the way the stock headlight looks on it but the LED lights are much brighter. 🤔💡

This is another way to do it, and perhaps less expensive, but I think it's more complicated. A 12 volt battery should last quite a while, even without being regularly charged, since you only really need it for a few seconds at a time or when riding at night. Also, it's super fast to charge or keep on a trickle if you plan to use the bike more frequently.

How tho

That's a great idea. I didn't want to bother with swapping them out and recharging, but that would work. The little battery I used was pretty cheap and for as little as you use the brake light, it should last a long time.

"Never let someone ride a mini bike in stiletto heels," that's my motto.

@@channelyourinnermike used to have a moto also but again she stole it lol

Thank you for the kind words!

Happy to help

I need to know what parts to get

The brake lever that I had to buy to get the push-switch was too long for a mini-bike. It technically would work if you want to use it. I couldn't find just the switch, unfortunately, which is why I had to dismantle and then discard the longer lever.

That might work, but LED lights are not compatible with the power source used for the headlight and it could cause failure. This is why the separate battery is an option. You can add a rectifier / converter to run everything from the engine, but that's a different modification.

You can wire it this way, but (a) the headlight should ALWAYS be on when you're riding and (b) most folks probably don't ride with their tail lights on during the day, so a separate switch saves battery life.

@@channelyourinnermike link the parts because I cant find the parts

It really doesn't matter as long as you're consistent with the wire colors (to create a proper circuit).

Sorry, no links. Just use search on Google or Amazon (that's what I did) as the parts and suppliers tend to change.

12 volt battery should be plenty for signals

There are extra wires if you wish to have signals, but this also requires a hand switch on the handlebars. It is likely easier to buy a full kit with all the parts rather than piecing it together from different sources. Good luck!

The headlamp comes installed and connected from the factory. If you're asking how it might be connected to a switch, that's not super complicated, but I don't know that the halogen bulb would last. To mount an LED headlamp and run it off the battery, it is a more involved process and requires a few other parts. In my opinion, there's no need to do that.

Not sure what you mean - the switch is just that. It may be located away from the battery, but it serves the same purpose. Battery connects to switch connects to light connects to battery. There's the circuit that the switch interrupts.

There is no easy way to get the power converted from the motor, unfortunately. It's either battery powered or you have to buy an AC/DC module or replace the stator.

@@channelyourinnermike www.amazon.com/uxcell-Waterproof-Converter-Electronic-Transformer/dp/B01ARRA56Y/ref=asc_df_B01ARRA56Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193992629021&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4310578581947832603&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006629&hvtargid=pla-312676089275&psc=1

18 dollar solution and a big capacitor would fill out the half wave pulse of the light coil

@@sammyrothrock6981 Or a $12 battery and no need to mess with the engine, voltage regulators, capacitors, etc. Your choice. For the mini bikes that already have the empty replica gas can, there's no challenge mounting a battery and virtually no experience necessary with wiring and electronics. For the CT100 or others without a box, then your suggestion might be better.

@@channelyourinnermike yes but, you wont have the pulse from the coil... It will be steady

It shouldn't really matter as long as you're consistent. Also, there's a 50/50 shot. You aren't going to kill yourself by doing it wrong, it just won't work. :^)

I would recommend a separate LED if you need something to supplement the regular headlight. For that, I would also suggest that you link the LED to the same switch that operates the (running) tail light. Just take the two wires from the LED and one goes to the switch and the other goes to the battery to join the existing circuit.

No kit, just Google and Amazon search.

I do not believe the LEDs will work in the front because the headlight doesn't run off the battery.