ComMarker B4 Fiber Laser Engraving Machine 20W Review | Galvo Laser | Hand held 

You are so welcome! Good luck.

Thank you as always for watching!

​@@BusterBeagle3D as i dont get how kickstarter and crowdfunding campaigns work, would u back this product? in case is not fully funded whats happening.. partial refund? not the right place to ask but i think u give some straight to the point answers xD i got a small business and im planning doing some lighters- pens- whatever costumer want on site.

1062 nm is Infra Red region, not in UV region.

@@antonis190811 Sorry, Not sure how I missed this. You only get charged for crowd funding campaigns if it meets it's good of fundraising and goes forward. If the campaign fails to fund you just get your money back. As for if I would personally fund it I would say if I was in the market for a fiber laser because I wanted to use it in business then I would certainly consider it. I think the machine is really nice and I really enjoyed working so if you are serious about laser metal work and you don't want to shell out more for an even more powerful machine I think it's a nice choice.

Yeah I can see how you could be worried. From what I can tell its a company that has shipped a bunch of fiber lasers mainly under the name Diaotool since 2015. They changed their name in the US market for trademark issues I have been told but you can find some data on the old name as well.

@@BusterBeagle3D !!! thank you so much for that info :)

Great to hear!

Thank you!

Thank you! I hope you do as well.

Hello. I did not try either of those things with this laser. Usually you can get a dark mark on stainless without any spray but again I haven't tried the spray.

60W should be more then enough. Split unit or a combined function pretty much the same. I personally like the combined units to save space but it's a personal choice. I have used ComMarker, Monport, EMSmart, and Gwiekie fibers and they are all good. I have also heard nothing but good things about Clouldray as well. I can't speak to any warranty or tech support as I really haven't needed any yet.

The 30W Monport is a better more high quality machine then this 20W machine but that doesn't mean this is a bad machine. The laser source of the 30W Monport is a Racus laser while this one was a Max laser so the Racus is considered a little higher quality. Now I have only tried the 20W Commarker and have plans to test some of their higher wattage machines in the future but if it was solely a comparison between the 20W ComMarker and a 30W Monport I would take the Monport if you have the space.

Thank you so much for the prompt replying. on Monport 30w there is also the compact one (Monport GP 30w) which on is better you think? The separate one or the compact?

@@behzadhonarjou1853 I honestly would have preferred the compact one. The other one just takes up so much room.

Hi. I don’t remember exactly. I just made a small box and hatched it going in opposite directions at full power. It was more of a little experiment then anything else.

The wattage is not the most important factor in colors. The biggest difference between the lasers I had was one was a MOPA laser and the other was a regular Fiber laser. It’s with the added pulse width setting on MOPA lasers that you really have greater and more consistent control over colors. Yes you can still get colors with a regular fiber laser but it’s always been a hard thing to get repeated results.

MOPA lasers are good if you want to be able to create colors on Stainless steel or Titanium. It also has the ability to work on different types of specialty plastics as well since you can achieve powerful marks at lower heat ranges. Regular fibers can also work on plastics but this just gives you a wider range. If the colors on stainless or the specialty plastics are not important to you then you can save a lot of money with a regular fiber over a MOPA. I have another video on my channel of a 60W MOPA B4 incase you haven’t seen it.

@@BusterBeagle3D I did watch that video, and I thought the coin that you made in honor of your grandfather was really neat! The MOPA probably has more power than I need, but I feel as I grow into it it would be better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it. I don’t think my budget would allow for a 60W MOPA and that is why I am leading towards the 30W MOPA. Is the 30W capable of all the items that you did in your review of the 60W MOPA laser?

You are correct. I meant to say Infrared but messed up. Unfortunately youtube doesn't allow you to re-upload the video but I'll see if I can edit it out.

While you may be able to cut very thin materials the machine is really intended as an engraver.

Thanks gain Ryan ... Can you do Tutorial with clear acrylic .

HI. I actually don't have the laser anymore as I needed to make some space for other machines so I can't check the model. You can however download the file I made here. drive.google.com/file/d/10OnZQxt4QqC0y89bCM9Ds7NMRuR99eZX/view?usp=sharing

@@BusterBeagle3D That's really good of you, thanks very much Ryan. Please forgive the potentially dumb question but... Now that I've seen the file do I need to print 2 or 3 of them or is it just the 1?

@@secobaairways4585 You need 3.

I suppose it is possible but certainly not easy. You would have to be exact in your positioning and any overlap or offset would be pretty obvious.

Certainly not a bad machine at all.

The dongle is referring to the machine being plugged in through the USB when opening ezcad. There was a section of the setup that needed to happen where you setup the drivers for your computer to recognize your usb device. I am unfortunately away for the holidays so I can’t look it up in my manual but you may be able to find the same instructions on the company website for the same setup instructions.

I would think yes on leather and probably on plastic if it’s thin enough although it’s not something I have tried.

I would highly recommend some sort of ventilation. I had a very powerful inline fan connected to a hose very close the engraving.

Really just how fast you can do something. If you are trying to make 3D coins for instance the 50W could do that same thing faster. That's really it.

Thank you. I saw your video on the Mopa version do you think it is worth the price difference? @@BusterBeagle3D

@@hopeless2390 Only if you care about delicate materials or colors on stainless steel or titanium. If those don't matter to you then save thousands and go non-MOPA.

Well i do care about the color so ill go MOPA but your saying 20W vs 30W is just a speed difference then maybe 20W is the way to go for now. @@BusterBeagle3D

@@hopeless2390 I think you will still get the same colors with a 20W that you would get with 30W. You still have to run tests per material as those things can vary from one object to the next but you should be able to get better consistency then you would with a non-mopa machine.

You could probably build an enclosure for pretty cheap. I thought about making my own out of 2020 Aluminum extrusion.

@@BusterBeagle3D People at work are really scared of lasers and don't really want anything DIY, especially that the machine is meant to be used by production people. Btw. I'm not so sure the included goggles you have are right, never seen laser protection goggles that are transparent, usually those are dark coloured.

@@Arek_R. It's a different type of wavelength, The color actually has nothing to do with the protection of the goggles. I don't know the exact model but they seem to be the same as this: www.civillaser.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1623

@@BusterBeagle3D General rule of thumb for me is that if those are sold be legit company and come with some paperwork to back it up then those are alright. Anything freebie included can't be trusted. Other youtuber reviewed same laser and those came with those even worse green goggles: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xbzX3eUD4_I.html

@@Arek_R. Yeah. Those green ones were absolutely the wrong glasses for these lasers. You can tell that these are not just clear but it certainly wouldn't hurt to pick up some professional ones if you were going to be doing this all day.

I haven't done it myself but I have seen others do so.

Marco has done a PCB board. Link to his vid with Contents search. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xbzX3eUD4_I.html

Hello. All of the information and links are in the description.

You can get it from their website or Amazon. amzn.to/44naH3K

I see them available on the amazon link. amzn.to/44naH3K You can also find them here: commarker.com/product/b4-laser-engraver/

If you go to the website you have to pick the options before the buy button will be active.

I never really include prices because they are always in flux and can range wildly based on when you watch a review. I have seen machines vary by over $1000 in price which can make a huge difference in someone's interest in a machine. Even this machine I believe can be purchased for almost $400- $500 less then when the video came out. Also sometimes I'm not even aware of the price as these reviews can be made before the product launches and a price is set.

It's a nice option. Nice and compact and very useful.

Hello. It still should work. RU-vid looks like they are shortening it but it still seems to be headed to the correct spot. I tried updating it again just to be sure.