Great video, I'm looking to upgrade from a 20w galvo fiber. It can't really do the 3d coins in a short time or very deep. This one did an awesome job on both coins.
Thank you. Yeah I have done more in 2 hours with a 60W fiber and a smaller lens then I have with a 20W fiber with a larger lens in 8 hours. It really makes a huge difference.
Just to add a little perspective for some of those leaving comments, I have a 20W MOPA and it is awesome, is it as powerful as a 100W MOPA? No of course not but these machines are all very powerful, capable and blazingly fast, if a job took 8 seconds on a 20W and only say 2 or 3 on a more powerful machine does that really matter? Max power is only 1 factor in any case, for example, engraving on plastic is likely to produce a dripping mess on most lasers that don't have the finer MOPA control options. The video was excellent and I think it represented the options very well, it just seems from the comments that many are looking at outright wattage on these machines as the be-all and end-all.
@@secobaairways4585 no no . If i was on the moon id be good with the weaker laser. I need the 100W so i can sit in my yard and write my name on the moon. Actually go outside and look up, i drew a dickutt on the apollo capsule
I haven't tried colors on silver personally so I'm not 100% sure that is possible. For stainless steel and titanium even the 20W laser will give you color.
Hello! I’m using a ComMarker B4 20W engraver with Lightburn, and recently I encountered a connection error while engraving in 3D on brass. The issue occurred while engraving a 3D relief pattern with the following settings: speed 6000, frequency 45kHz, power 90%, line spacing 0.0254, image mode set to 3D Sliced, and 150 passes. After about 6 hours of engraving, a connection error occurred. I paused for a while and resumed engraving, but the previously engraved pattern disappeared. Then, after about 1 hour, the connection error happened again. Is there any solution to this problem? And is there a way to resume the engraving from where it stopped? I would greatly appreciate your help in finding a solution. If you need further assistance with refining the details or want to send this in a specific context, feel free to ask!
Great video, Thanks. I just wonder : does 60 watt is too much if I want to create my own "PCB" (circuit boards) for electronic projects or does the 30 watt is enough or just barely enough ?
I haven't made PCB boards myself but I want to say I have even seen those made with 20W machines. Just keep in mind that just because something is 60W doesn't mean it's always running at full power. While it's not exactly the same ,60W at 33.3% power should be very near a 20W at 100% power. I would think 30W would be just fine.
As always...another great video! You hinted on my biggest "complaint" about Fiber Lasers (I have one), the colors usually only look good at certain angles. If you look at other people's samples, they always show it at the best angle, something the colors look black. Even your great Mickey Mouse engraving would not look that colorful if it was hanging on a necklace. Even black doesn't look that great unless it's in the "perfect" angle.
Honestly the settings that I used for the Mickey Mouse do hold up pretty good at angles. The black is something you can feel on the surface and same with the white and they really don't fade much at angle. The red and blue do go a little darker but still hold up at many angles. I have that file I created for Lightburn in the video description so if you have a MOPA give it a shot!
I've been looking for a different way to cut very small parts out of hardened stainless steel. .22mm thick. They are very small and detailed. So far I've had them made through chemical milling but that's getting too expensive. Just wondering if this laser could do the task?
Yes the laser can do the task, it may take a long time but it will eventually cut through. You can also do a wobble setting which essentially makes mini circles around the cut likes, this means the beam cuts a larger kerf but will help speed up a cut. When you say .22 do you mean 22 gauge or almost .25in? At .25in it's going to take a very long time to cut. It can still be done, but you may have to adjust the laser focal distance 2 or 4 times to complete and run the file many times. I'm not sure it is the best tool for .25in material. If you want to cut that thick cnc mill is probably still the best option to get it done in a reasonable time frame. 22gauge, that is much thinner and could be done on a laser but it will still take a substantial amount of time to complete. Just my 2 cents.
There are some mopa laser videos that prove that it can engrave on wood or cardboard... Somehow the focus lasers were not in focus... Maybe you can play with the focus to engrave on other materials... 🤔 I'm still waiting for my laser to arrive... There are some scam sellers on eBay... I'm on my third attempt to buy one since October 🤦
I have seen some videos where people either coat the wood or use some chemical mixture with titanium dioxide but it's really not recommended to use on wood. You are very likely to start a fire so it's really not recommended. A simple diode laser, even one with a simple galvo setup would be better suited for that.
How long do the lens normally last? Assuming maintenance will prolong it but on average how long and what is the cost to replace. I feel like this should be part of the review if it's ridiculous.
The lens is not a consumable product so there should be no reason for ever replacing it. However if you want to get different focal distance lenses or if you happen to damage it somehow you can replace it and they are not overly expensive. I think around $50-$70.
It looks like there is a lot of user requirements in order to get the laser dialed in with the two points that shows it is at the proper focus level, to me that seems like a turn off. Since you’re sharing your honest opinion, what is your honest take on this machine versus a commarker b4?
My recent B4 is in a totally different ball park since it's a MOPA and 60W. I do like the smaller form factor of this machine however just from an ease of use standpoint. The B4 also has the longer cord for handheld use which I'll never do so it's honestly more of a hindrance. Both machine require at least a little tweaking to dial in perfectly but I did go into more of the setup with this machine since some of that info was lacking. The laser focus of this machine was a pretty easy and quick adjustment, the rest of that Lightburn setup was really just inputting the proper settings.
@@BusterBeagle3D I apologize, I should have clarified which B4 model, and I was referring to the smaller unit. Regardless, great videos of both machines with a honest review. Thank you for the reply.
To a certain degree based on the lens you use and by how much. Basically it doesn't need to be perfectly flat but you only have a short range until the focal range falls off. The large the lens the bigger the focal range.
Thanks for the great review of the 60W. I work out of my house, so I'm wondering what are the power requirements of fiber lasers and are requirements different due to the wattage of the unit? In my work area I only have 110 available
It all depends on your needs but you can get a lot of stuff done with a 20W fiber laser. It might be slower but that doesn't mean it can't handle tons of jobs.
Color does not determine the optical density protection of the shield. While I can't vouch for the lab testing on this particular shield you can find may orange safety googles in the 1064nm range.
Thanks for a great review.2 Important questions for the nice 3D engraving job you did at 14:20: -How long did this one take? -In your experience would a 100W model cut this time in half?
@@BusterBeagle3D Interesting that it took the same amount of time(or more) than the more detailed work you did at 13:19 . Now I know 20W version to save some bucks is a no-go, cheers!
@@AllenCote4 The times can vary based on the detail of the engraving but it's almost backwards to what you would think would take longer. After the design is sculpted out the laser will skip over that area at a faster speed then the laser is engraving the parts it's still cutting out. This means that even with a lot of detail, as long as it's uncovered it will now skip it. With something like the Air Force coin there were lots of deep open space which meant that that laser was still moving at the cutting speed over those areas instead of faster skip speed. Hope that made sense.
I'm thinking too that a 100w model will also let you more easily use the larger 200 and 300 lens sizes since you'll have more power at your fingertips. Lower wattages won't do as well with the larger lenses. Correct me if I'm wrong on that.
Up to 300x300mm with an additional lense, but they only recommend this for a minimum of 50W. 110x110mm and 200x200mm lenses are included even with the 20W B4 variants.
Why don't these "reviewers" NEVER say how long it takes to make all these samples? WHY??? (Oh, yeah, if you knew it takes more the 90 minutes, and used so much electricity, I WILL BE A DEAL KILLER)
True a 60w laser probably uses more than 60w to run everything, but a standard size TV will use the same if not twice as much especially if you're looking at anything over 55"....
