I still remember my first mouse which was sold with Amiga 500. It was a hudge move from 8-bit to Amiga world. Playing first game, Lemmings with a mouse :)
It looks beautiful. You can't beat that factory fresh look. Although it's just a small thing it makes a big difference to the overall enjoyment. Cheers
The retrobrite will last longer if you protect it after you do it. I've seen Adrian Digital Basement use 303 spray. That seems like a reasonable choice.
Use WD40 to remove the glue underneath the glide pads. Just spray a little on them, wait and remove/scrape off. After all IPA to clean all off. And for retrobright, better use fluid peroxide than that cream stuff. Just better and cheaper and no stain/marble effects. Submerging full in a bin works then much better. And you don't have to massage it ;)
Living in Sweden, I don't have much sun these days for retrobrighting. I always use 12% peroxide and just heat for 3-4 hours, and it's easy and works great. :)
The mouse came out great, nice work! I've been looking for a 1351 for ages, but the prices on eBay are often higher than the cost of the computer these days!
Good to see it lookin' nice now, at the time a mouse wasn't a big thin' for computers yet but somehow thin's were still made for them anyway, and I wager there was some variation in them, so thus that leads to my question - how do you think the Commodore mouse stack up to the mice of that era or even to the next set of computers up which likely required some sort of mouse?
Kudos to you! I'm coveting a 1351 since I left mine at my parents' place, never to be found and had to replace it with an optomechanical one with the [M]ouse Interface. Nice repair (on the other vid) and restore. I'm sure the Glide Pads they sell on eBay for gaming mouses can fit beautifully on the 1351 if your solution doesn't last as much as you desired :)
Jan, I love your channel, your enthusiasm and your amateur approach is what makes it great for me. I have one little complaint, if I may: The volume of your intro music is very high compared to the rest of your videos. I have to set the volume very low for the intro and set it high again when it finishes in order to be able hear you. Can you please re-edit that intro clip to lower the volume a bit (like half actually). Many thanks, and keep up your great work as it is.
Yes, they used larger tactile switches. I think the original Amiga 1000 mice used the same size. I don't know if they are better necessarily, they feel less "clicky" overall.
I did a mouse retro bight recently, but due to the uneven surface on top, I got some striping. I would say a mouse is a better candidate for the submersion method instead of creme and plastic wrap.
I recently bought a 1351 off ebay for my C64, and it is boxed with manual and in pristine looking new condition, trouble is, i'm not sure if it works properly or not! I plugged it in and tried it for the mouse controlled games that I know of and read that it worked with, ie - Arkanoid, Operation Thunderbolt etc etc, but the mouse didn't move properly, only in one direction I seem to recall. This was disappointing, so I put it back in its box, and intended trying it again another day but I still haven't got round to it. I don't know if I did something wrong, or maybe the mouse is probably not working? It is nice to just keep as a collectors piece though being in such lovely cosmetic condition, but I would like to use it on the few games it is meant to work for!! I have a couple of boxed Neos mice which both work great for Arkanoid etc, and work first time when I plug them in, but my 1351 doesn't do that! Would you have any advice at all Jan? It would be greatly appreciated if so :) Great video as always, and keep it up...cheers! :)
i heard that the yellowing has something to do with the bromide in the plastic that has been used as a flame retardant. but i don't know if that is true.
Im about to do something similar on a 1351 mouse I just picked up. I was wondering what to replace the pads with, I was thinking about maybe Teflon disks or pads.
You can buy sheets of glide pad material actually (I think it is Teflon coated but not sure). Should be relatively easy to cut to size and probably better than my makeshift solution (although it still works pretty well).
I done a quick search but can't find out if the mouse uses the analog inputs on the joy port or not. I'm using a winsid but that doesn't emulate the analogs for some reason. I wouldnt mind a mouse. Bugger, NVM 6:54
Just to comment that you (and every single youtuber out there) make the retrobrighting process completely forgetting about adding Active Oxigen. I mean the cheap one that you can buy for laundry, that the creators of the Retrobrighting process indicated on their formula (and they invented it and you can investigate on the Wiki). And also, placing that cover over it, that isn't as good as just brushing the piece again every half an hour because it can leave marks. But I'm not saying At All, that your process with such a small piece hasn't become absolutely perfect, but it's just to comment about how it should be made in general, mostly with larger things.
I would have used thin double sided tape, and no glue, but the mouse look great again, maybe i am also going to Retr0bright My Amiga Mouses and My C128D plastic case, but it's a lot of work taking apart my C128D again, already have done it to replace all the caps on the MB and in my PSU, and Floppy Drive, and put a new fan (Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX, 60mm) in it (PSU) so he is now a LOT quieter.
