Common problems on V Twin Nikki Carbs found on Briggs and Stratton Intec engines 

Thank you viewers like you keep me motivated to provide content like this...it's always nice to receive kind words for my effort. if I can help in anyway with a small engine problem don't hesitate to ask.

thx for the O-ring info. Was having hard time figuring out the sizes.

Its a great way to visually inspect and by comparing the two holes can easily reveal if additional cleaning is required .

Jeffery....so nice 👍 to be corrected on my Grammer...thank you .....your even better than spell checker.....one quick ❓......why is such a profound intellectual such as your self feeling compelled to view my video when my ideolect is or was indicative of my lower comprehension skill....Geee......guess I should be greatful you graced me with your devine presence and Superior pronunciation capabilities.....I am guessing your 20 years of selling parts diminished your social interaction skills....lol..one more thing FYI....Anti afterfire solenoid is the proper way you pronounce....your coined so called fuel shut off solenoid .....Seriously 😳.....uhhhhhhhh......look it up in any Briggs service repair manual..... 🤣....but hey don't take my word for it they just made me a Master Service Technician for the hell of it....(experience).....nah... Shit that's just a formality..... Persistence.......and dedicated results that the 🗝️ to success....passing asinine commentary......certainly makes for intelligent individuals 😁 a chance to stand out among the common folk. Subscribers love a individual with a superiority complex trolling there every word ....Keep up the good work... you'll be on your way to 3...... possibly even four subscribers to entertain your comedic justification.

Your very welcome ....viewers like you make my videos worth while .....Thanks again for the kind words.

Thanks/ its always nice to receive a compliment ........Glad to have helped ...

McMaster Carr will not sip to Canada right now due to COVID. Would you be willing to sell some to me. I am in Ontario

@@briannicholson2027 Sure. Just not sure how to get in touch. I don't see any option to message you on here and I don't want to post my contact details in a public chat.

Did you end up get the part?​@@briannicholson2027

Thanks / always glad to help respectful viewers .

Your welcome Bjorn Valsinger as viewers like you make these videos worth the effort and time .And thanks for being a respectful viewer .

Your welcome....glad to have helped .

Look at your valve adjustment, check the guides and be sure you don't have a bent pushrod. All of these things could lead to a lean cylinder.

By the way, the two jets are different sizes. Maybe yours are reversed. That would lead to one cylinder being too rich and the other too lean.

I have the later carb on a JD G110 and I discovered the plastic manifold was warped on the throttle facing surface. I use some silicone to seal it. Also found the port facing sides warped and clear signs the O rings had been leaking. No wonder I had to keep it nearly full choked just to start and stay running. I sealed with a little bit of silicone.

Welcome/ glad to have helped...

Very Welcome glad to have helped....

I do agree that the o rings can be purchased via different alternatives and companies . But penning the valve guides is a foolish waste of time ,effort ,and money .....If they move once ....they can and will move again .......trust me viewers if you have a head that the valve guides have moved in you basicly have two options that are viable .......Simply purchase a new head or find a good used head ..........I personally would opt for the new head if the equipment dosent have substantial age or hours .

Adam Dorris by providing this opinion please don't take it personal .......You penning of a valve guide is effective .....And I personally have done it as well but its often just a patch job at best simply because of the expansion rate range of alum used in the heads . Peening only puts pressure on the valve guide at the top and bottom of the valve guide . Heat will expand the alum and oil will carbonize due to heat allowing the valve guide to move once again as the guides are pressure fitted in the heads from new .

Follow the money, they can not make money if you fix the problem yourself, they want you to buy a new part.

Thanks/ I did try but it just didn't show up the way I had hoped it would ...

Mike...I would check mc.mastercarr... They offer a large selection of o rings. Sadly I have know idea what the actual size of the o ring is you need..... alternatively you can likely find the OEM kit on partstree.com.

You likely have one of the passages internal to the carb clogged as a result of just basic tarnishing of old fuel . Clean the carb …..Then make sure your jets are secure into the pickup or transfer tube .

Your very welcome / GLAD TO HELP anytime .......

David Dixon yeah, same thing here for me. did you ever find out which one goes where? I've got 1.1 and 1.4

I have the same problem. Despite trying not to let them fall out, they did and now I don't know which is which. It took a magnifying glass to see the numbers on them. One is marked 116 and the other 113. Plus there is a place on the carb body with a L and R. EDIT: according to a picture I enlarged from a B&S carb rebuild site, Jet 113 is on the L side and 116 on the R side. FWTW. Also, since they won't stay in place, I must assume the O rings on them are bad. So most likely I'll be ordering some from McMasterCarr soon.

The smaller jet goes on the left side, you have to get a magnifying glass to read the numbers stamped into the base of the jets.

Well if that be the case ....Check the carbs throttle {butterfly} plate shutter as the screws likely have came out causing it to remain wide open ...because the only way a engine will run wide open under normal failure is improper governor adjustment .....broken governor ......or carb failures such as butterflys sticking or in rare cases the jets having a issue .

@@kevinbolin7665 nope they were fine. It appears the Intake O-ring gaskets developed a leak causing a severe leaning out of the fuel being delivered. Checked the intake manifold for leaks/cracks seeing as it is plastic, didn't find any. I just thoroughly went throughre and re-built the Nikki carb, (I am fond of those Nikki's) making dang sure it is in 100% working condition.....I'm waiting on parts to close her back up.....KEVIN Thanks for the response!!!!

Yes /although this can be a challenge in its self as often the jets etched number will have been affected do to the vibration of gasoline in the float bowl ......The best way I know how to describe this effect on the etched numbers is {think of a ultra sonic cleaner for jewelry } pro longed exposure to the vibration of normal sediments that often just accumulate in modern gasolines will just eventually buff off the lightly etched numbers.. A small drill index works great with the aid of Parts tree .com website { By even calling the company they can often tell you the numbers of the jets and where to place them in the transfer tube.} Although what I personally do is look at the intake manifold .....You will notice that with it facing you in the direction it would go on there is a right and left side ...often is the case that the bigger jet gos to cylinder 2 or to the right....but keep in mind that these jets are so close in size that it is often a pain in the butt just to try to identify one from the other when there are no etched numbers visible to be read ...{ So I recommend contacting Central power distributors or the helpful folks at Parts tree .com} ......Note that on some engines on Parts tree.com they even offer the numbers of the jets to be purchased and indicate the left or right .....Sadly this isn't much help if you intend on reusing the old jets as the etched numbers quite often have faded or became distorted ... But personally If I were you and have access to a small drill index I would just insert the bigger of the two jets into the transfer tube on the right.

Thanks Kevin

Its likely a passage restriction like I have shown how to clean in my video....However jets can be distorted and allow the carb to have to be in a partially closed state to provide the engine to run as it currently is. Thorough cleaning is highly recommended.

On mine, when the jets fell out, the engine would not run or start no matter what I tried. So its a good bet Kevin is right, its likely clogging somewhere else in the carb cause at least in my case, once the jets fall out, the engine won't start or run no matter what you do.

And miss out on such asinine commentary like this ?......NEVER......

Toolman if every action I displayed was carefully executed then I would likely only be committed to the perfection of my video and not the premise witch would defeat any reasoning by intent .

@@kevinbolin7665 Ya I'm the ass. Right?

@@CorbinAce SEE.....{fellow viewers}.....I knew {toolman }wouldnt miss out on my perspective .......Very attentive and perceptive individual .....{I will give you that toolman } Might I ask wheres your content upon your channel as I see your accustom to holding others to asinine standards yet never advocate by example .....You Know I could be wrong but providing content of any kind would likely gather liked minded individuals to your channel ......and maybe then .......Well .....you might find less time to be critical ......Just saying .....5 Subs dosent make you seem validated by casting sarcastic remarks .

@@kevinbolin7665 What the hell are you talking about? Suggestion. #1 Please run through your video just one more time. It seems the name calling are all on your side. The Sarcasm is all on your side. Again viewing your' Wrist was very helpful. Dude: try not to be so sensitive. We all make mistakes. Most learn from them!!!

Yes part number 842627 is for the right and part number 792296 is for the left...

Glad to help ...

Ok / I order theses o rings from Mc Master Carr ….They are 75 viton ….The size is 1x2.5 ...Qty is 25 per package ….Bar code numbers read as such 1A 18011614144435 /CAA086 . When I wish to purchase more typically I provide this info via phone and within 3 days will receive my order .

The 1 X 2.5 o-rings are too thick for the late model jets. They will not fit!

This is indeed a very difficult task your faced with .....hopefully the numbers are still visible ....parts tree .com can be helpful in finding witch jet went where .......Also Mc Master Carr sells the o rings just simply order 75 viton {size 1x2.5} and typically they come 25 to the package .

@@kevinbolin7665 that sounds like a plan I know after cleaning it it didn't run any different than it did before it still runs like crap at an idle it's fine at full throttle mowing but not at an idle popping and cracking valves are adjusted perfect didn't have to touch them so it's got to be the carburetor

Not that I have seen.....

On mine the o-rings were eaten away after a few years, leading to the jets falling out of the riser tube and several other o-rings becoming useless. There is a carb rebuild kit you can get on eBay for less than $10 that will have all the gaskets and o-rings, but like Kevin said, it doesn't include the jets or the o-rings for the jets. I can attest, without the new o-rings around the jets, it will only get worse and they will continue to fall out and cause the engine to stall. So you have to order new jets with the rebuild kit or new o-rings for the jets, or the rebuild/cleaning will all be for naught.

Lightly apply grease to both the openings and the jets .....use a vice to insure your jets are being pressed evenly into there respective openings . You can often use a small Allen key or short socket like a 3 mm to help aid in the task . Just be careful when applying pressure with the vice .

@@kevinbolin7665 The 1 X 2.5 o-rings are too thick and never use a vise to insert them, everything is plastic and you will surely crack the plastic housing! Use only Briggs and Stratton parts!

Loud popping and flash flaming with back firing threw the carb .

I am a bit confused about the question so please forgive me....I think your asking about the tip end of a After fire solenoid that screws into the bottom of the carb .....If so its not a o ring that gos on the end but a molded piece of rubber that is slightly smaller than a eraser in appearance ....When they become affected they often will pull out of a small circler grove that can be seen at the end of a after fire solenoid. I really don't think the ends can be bought without purchasing a whole new after fire solenoid . IF you do find it to be the case and are able to purchase the plunger end of the after fire solenoid please provide a part number for me. It would be a great piece of info I could use to repair about six I have hear at home.

Quite alright....easily done.....glad you liked the video

Thanks....... Did you try them on a jet yet ?? I got some from a friend and I think they were 2.5 and they were a little tight to get the jet back in the hole....

Partstree.com should help you / All you need is model ,type,and code .

You can provide me the model ,type ,and code and I will help you as well if you don't find the info from Partstree.com.

@@kevinbolin7665 thank you very much huge help

You could check you choke linkage ......but to be honest this problem is often due to a clogged passage or jet in the carb....I will run but only if it receives a little help from carb cleaner, gasoline ,starting fluid ...ETC....you may need to purchase a carb kit..

Mcmaster carr part number{ 9263k546 } multi purpose .....also part number{ 1185n21} will work if you prefer colored o rings. I prefer these o rings because they seem to hold up better than the ones Briggs use . fit much tighter and gas dosent seem to affect them as bad. The first part number I provided cost about $3.38 and the second cost $5.27 .....so very affordable... If you have any trouble the size is 1mm x 2.5 mm viton and they come 25 in a pack

We n Bolin 0

​@@kevinbolin7665 McMaster-Carr recommends Part # 1295N113 instead of 9263k546. The difference is 50 instead of 25. $4.30 v $5.98. # 1185N21 is a brown viton. 25 for $6.33? More for less!! As for durability, Buna-N is probably what Briggs is using as it is 1/4 the price. From older comments, it seems the o-rings on the new jets are smaller. If the cross section is still 1 mm, there are 1.5 x 3.5 and 2 x 4 MM ID/OD part #s 1295N111 and N112 respectively. The brown vitons are once again more money for less quantity.

Yes purchase a carb over haul kit ...and clean the carb...

Kevin Bolin appreciate thw response! i will try that

would you happen to know the o-ring seal size for that solenoid retainer?

I really cant say that I do ....It should come with the carb kit...

I have seen this only a few times/ on these carbs a great way to clean the inlet needle valve seat is by taking a small amount of lapping compound found at most auto motive stores {fine }not course and gently buff the seat with it on a small Q.Tip used to clean out ears . Note a great way to provide a mirror like finish would be to dilute the lapping compound with Go/Jo hand cleaner also found in most automotive stores.....Just make sure you spray out the seat once you have buffed it .

I appreciate you taking the time to reply.Thanks for tip I will give it a try.I assume the seat is not replaceable on these and if lapping doesn't work a new carb is needed?

You are correct/You in honesty have about a 50 /50 chance .....You could place a in line fuel shut off valve but in truth the small diaphragm fuel pump should help assist the carb in retaining fuel flow intel the engine is turned over by cranking or starting.

Thanks Kevin.Gonna give it a try this weekend.Found a new carb on ebay for $50 and will probably keep this one for parts.Can't complain much,Tractor has been trouble free for 16 tough use years.

Best of luck ...Hope it works out for you ...If I can help in any way I am only a reply away.

It prevents gas from entering the carbs jet or jets once it is shut off / also prevents gas building up and blowing off a muffler .....Although sometimes you may still have unburned gas react {ignite} in a muffler once the engine has been shut down........In truth its a way for a lawyer to make a dollar ......But the obligated answer I am required to say should be ......{safety}

I think I read it in the O.M., its a safety feature. With the blades engaged, the seat switch tripping for no weight on the seat, will cause the solenoid to close and cut off fuel killing the engine. The idea is if you tip the mower over and thus fall off the seat with the blades engaged, it will kill the engine as quickly as possible. A simple engine like this, when hot can continue to run even if you cut the ignition, most assured way to make sure it stops running is to cut off the fuel. But it also closes anytime you shut off the motor, for all the reasons Kevin mentioned.

captainslowking wrong numbers

captainslowking briggs engine u need to look on the valve covers one will be stamped on top . U need the model and code xxxxxx-xxxx-xx Model - code

No problem just replace it with the newer carb / they mount the same way and you truly in most cases get better performance from the engine. { if your model used a restrictor plate just remove it }

was thinking that but will the fuel shut off still go together for i have that black cont and i see new carbs have the white

Yes / the anti afterfire solenoid for the carb should be the same . its connection should be exactly the same ..

thank you

Glad to have helped....

Yes def will keep it from starting/ I would like to help.....Please provide me the model ...Type ...and code of your engine....They are typically found on the valve covers and blower housings..{795969} wasn't providing many results..

No...sorry..it is a choke shaft ....but I can understand the confusion ...{easily done}...look carefully at the carb ..the carb throttle shaft is to the rear ....look carefully and you will see the idle set screw to the left ..

What?

@@kevinbolin7665 I bought a whole new carburetor and was in and out in less than an hour. If I got to pull a carburetor off might as well just replace the whole damn thing.

@@jamesm568 In most cases I would agree ….But these carbs are expensive ….And repair kits are around 56 to 70 dollars tops …...The oem carbs range about 135 dollars …..But the aftermarket cost typically 40 dollars …..But be warned the aftermarket carbs aluminum is terrible for oxidizing .

@@kevinbolin7665 When it comes to Briggs & Stratton I only buy OEM parts.

​@@jamesm568some of the current cheap aftermarket carbs are pretty good these days. Saved me a couple of times with discontinued parts issues

True......wasn't intended ….But it just happened to be that way …...Still it can be very imformative.