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I've watched so many of your videos about Kubota tractors . . . easily the most informative and well done videos on RU-vid. I wish I lived closer to Pennsylvania so I could just drop by, chat it up, and then purchase by tractor.
Every dealer should have a sign with this on their sales floor. Very well said. "Painting with a broad brush is never a good idea. One implement is never the right choice for every person out there. "
I just purchased a B2601 with this rear finish mower, Dealer said the mid mount mower wouldn't do as good a job. Also got a 60" rotary cutter to do the grown up pastures. The pull behind mower takes getting used to but it certainly does a good job. I now have 20 hours mowing and bush hogging and I can get closer to the trees and poles than I could with my previous belly mower without any scalping that I got with the belly mower
so coming from a belly mower...do you prefer the finish mower now?? I will be mowing 3 acres around my house and then 5 acres fescue field. I will need to cut along house landscaping and along drive way. other than that it will be pretty open...field has a 16 degree hill on some areas
@@adamaustin3373 I wish I knew the answer to your question. I just purchased 5 acres and am trying to decide on a belly mower or finish mower. I am leaning toward the finish mower because of the ease of install and removal. I will have to cut some manicured lawn (front yard) too but 85% is short pasture.
just switched from mowing with BX25d 60" mid mount to mowing with L4060c and 72" finish mower. brand new learning curve. got a small mower to trim with and gave up trying to get close
Recently replaced an older B2610 with rear finish mower with B2650 with belly mower. Biggest factor was space in the garage due to other implements. If space wasn’t a concern I would opt to stick with the rear 3 point. The belly mower is a pain to switch out compared to the 3 point and you lose a ton of clearance when using your loader like mentioned elsewhere.
Another great video Neal. I think you missed one point with this one. If you're using the tractor for multiple purposes the tractor can be unwieldy belly mower, and removing it and installing it can be a pain. To me the three point hitch is much easier to install and remove.
Thank you, this is the only video I have found that gives a very detailed explanation between the two and what benefit they have over each other. cheers!
Not sure what you are do'n with the rear mower that takes four goes to clean up around a pole ;) First off, use a weed wacker, LOL. 2nd, not as hard as you are making it look. I love them compared to the headache of getting under my tractor to mess with MMMs. SO easy to always have access to the belts, blades, everything, without a back ache. You can just back up to hit the other side of the pole. Takes a couple seconds. AND you can actually do more with rear mower, like get under scrubs and trees. Not sure why dealers are always pushing MMM's. Larger properties (which one assumes you have if you are spending 20-30k on a machine) are easier to keep up with large rear mowers IMHO. ;)
I mow about 7 acres with a 6' 3-point mower behind a 1985 Case IH 245D. I am waiting delivery on a B2650. My dealer recommended against a belly mower. I don't have fences to worry about. With the mower being wider than the rear wheels, cutting close to the edges is no big deal.
will the b2650 be enough HP for a 72" finish mower? I recently watched a video with a guy that had that setup and basically stalled out going up about a 15 degree hill mowing pretty short grass
We have a New Holland TC 29D with a 60 inch mid mount I love it for mowing along fence lines the super steer makes it nice for getting around I wish Kubota offered a super steer model.
I went with the RFM for my TC 26DA, and it's great. I can see the advantages of a mid mount, but would never get one myself, except on a lawn or garden tractor. When the old Wheelhorse died, I got a Kubota GR 2120 because the bigger tractor can't cut under the apple trees and such, and do most of my cutting with that now, because the AWD is better than the 4 wheel drive as far as being gentle on grass. But there are times when I get it stuck, and the NH TC26DA comes in very handy for yanking it out. The New Holland gets all the snow and gravel work, though, so it gets plenty of use.
My mid mount mower causes clippings to clog up my radiator screen. I have stop every hour to clean it off. Thinking a three point finish mower completely behind the tractor wouldn't have this issue. A forward mounted mower ahead of the tractor would aggravate the cooling issue.
I have a woods rd60 behind my Kubota B7100D. I have very little trouble with grass or any other debris getting in the radiator screen. That’s one thing a rear mount rear discharge mower has going for it.
The drive over mower is basically just more money for less return. You can take a standard deck off a tractor in about two minutes and hook up just as quick. The wheels extend down and turn out so it just slides out after releasing your mid pto drive shaft and three pins.
Love your videos, thanks a lot. I am looking for a video on how to properly adjust a rear finish mower. I have mine hooked up but when I try to lift the mower, only the front wheels come off the ground. Ideas???
instead of having that 3 point hitchmower dragging after the tractor, make it a 3 point attachement a frontmounted mowe... In my mind it will be superior to any midmount mower
Guy i knew had a Gravely tractor that he mounted out front and said it was better than midmount because he had a bunch of big pines with laying branches and he could get under them and never get stabbed by the needles and it swiveled up and down on the left and right and i mowed with it once and you could just watch the mowers lines.
Except that you and your tractor are breathing all the junk it’s discharging. Rear mowers are nice because you’re driving away from your dust rather than into it.
Rear mower wider than the tractor and let the rear arm stabilzers to float around. Go slow and the mower will move around the fence post and get under the wire as well in one pass.
It would have been helpful if he discussed ease of attaching the equipment and quality of cut both grass and brush. He also neglected to mention that the rear mounted cutter has great adjustable height and floats over uneven terrain better thus avoiding scalping. But thanks for explaining the fence issue 10 different ways, I got it.
Personally, I don't want the hassle of attaching and detaching the belly mower. I have a zero turn for mowing and it does it better and quicker. I want my tractor to do tractor work.
Zero turns are ok on relatively flat land but many have been rolled into water from hills. Less than a week ago a lawn service guy drowned using a zero turn.
Yeah, that belly mower would get in the way of most of my tractor work. I can see the appeal of it being more stable than a zero turn but just can’t justify the additional cost.
Neil if you get a chance do a video on the woods 59 mmm showing taking it on and off and whatnot. Show whether it lifts good, if you can still use the 3 point
I wonder what the price difference is between the two and if it would make more sense to get a finish mower and a brush hog for the back and leave the mid mount out of the equation I bet they are pretty spendy and quiet unique for the tractor
I have a 1957 John Deere 420 W with a 6 foot Brush Hog finish mower that follows me. I use Gator Back, low vac blades. I finish with John Deere 500 series zeroe turn ( rear wheel steer) Cat's meow!!
3 point mowers are better when it’s time to sharpen/replace your blades. I have a 60” 3 pt which is the same width as my tractor (very easy cutting along objects) but then I disconnect from the 3pt and use the FEL forks to lift the entire unit up for blade maintenance and under deck cleaning. Also, ground clearance is an issue with belly mowers. Try going over a ridge and not dragging a mid-mount mower....
I have about 8 acres to mow. 3/3.5 acres around my house and then the rest is field that's on a hill of about 16 degrees in areas. which would u recommend for my application? of course I need to mow/trim around my house landscaping and building. not many trees to go around at all...and along driveway etc...
If it's a primarily of knowing tractor, b2601 will do just fine. If there are more demanding applications you might want to consider the bigger tractor. I'm not sure I'd let the mower deck options sway your decision either way.
I have a BX 2380 with a 60" belly mower that I use to mow my lawn. I've been on the lookout for a finish mower to mow a large pasture area on my property, and I haven't seen many options that are spec'd to run with my tractor. Just saw a good deal on a Woods RM59 finish mower, but specs say it needs a 28 hp tractor to run it. Here's my question... is it possible to run that mower on my 23 hp tractor if I take it slow? Or am I asking for trouble?
Having a mower out back is like swinging a club. Zero turns with baggers hanging out the back have the same problem. It sort of defeats the concept of zero turn.
That's a terrible comparison. The rear mounted mower is much narrower giving the false impression that the mid-mount is better. The rear mount is vastly superior for trimming around things. Back in around trees and overhangs. Make tight passes in reverse that are almost impossible when it is under the tractor and obstructed by well.... everything. The mid mount is always in the way and getting hung up on things if you are using the loader. Best thing I ever did was toss the mid mount mower and buy a 6 foot Woods finishing mower. Easy to attach/remove if necessary but also has the benefit of adding rear weight for loader use. Less complexity. Sturdier. Just all round a heck of a lot better than you might think if you never tried anything but a belly mower. Ideally, a front mount would be the real ticket, but not so simple to accomplish without some drive train challenges. I will admit that if you have a gear drive rather than hydrostatic unit, there may be some loss due to having to stop and back up to trees and things when trimming, but I never found it was a big deal. Toss the belly mower. You'll be happier. :-)
My thing is I have a yard with a couple of very steep sections that level off then steep again with decently large angles. Would a rear mower come up off the ground as the tractor goes over the hill?? Same with going up the hill, as the tractor tops the hill will it raise the rear mower or will it be able to drop far enough to stay on the ground?
@@hugostiglitz8465 ok good to know, I’ll watch for this too. I assume your referring to when the tractor enters the hill while mower is still flat type of bind?? Right.
@@jacobhendrickson8935- Exactly right, my bellymower is in the center so I can climb any hill and back down very easily. No worry of tipping when climbing.
tow behind deck with rear discharge keeps you more away from poops and toxic weeds like star-of-bethlehem kicked up in the air especially when winds blowing from your rightside
Is there a difference in cut quality in the under vs the read mower? I was hopping you would make a cut with one then the other to show if there is a difference.
I can see that different grass and situations will play a big part in it the cut. So in picking a mower is all in your application like you said. Thank you.
What about if you have wheel spacers on your tractor and having the needed clearance for operating the tractor if you have a mid mount mower. I’m looking at purchasing a new LX 2610 tractor pawn where I do a not a snow removal and will need wheel spacers to put on tire chains, probably the 2 inch spacers. Can I get by using a 6 inch mid more deck or would I have to go to 72 inch mower deck or could I use any of them in more decks at all with the wheel spacers still on the tractor or would I have to take them off every time I went do use the mower..?
Question, Messick's: We've currently got a Deere 5320 with a 6' bush hog, and a Scag Tiger Cat. The bush hog mows the open field areas (maybe 10 acres) well, and we do around the trees and smaller areas with the Scag (Between 6 and 10 acres, depending). However, the whole place is hilly, and we've all slid around on the ZTR. Not getting rid of the 64HP tractor, are there any mid-mount mower solutions that are as durable as the deck on a commercial ZTR, or mow as fast in a straight line? Or are we just better off putting those ag/ATV tires on the ZTR?
Find a front deck mower. They are basically a sub compact tractor driving the opposite direction. They usually have all wheel drive or four wheel drive with locking front differential and will climb like no other. Being rear wheel steer, they can get into very tight places, of course not as tight as ztrs, but you'd be surprised where you can get one to go. That said, they can go around trees and any other obstacle as well as a zero turn and with the deck out front, its probably easier too. Either Kubotas or Deeres are well made and will last a long time. They can usually reach speeds up to 10-13ish mph, (don't recall how fast a tiger cat is) so speed shouldn't be much of a concern. Only down side is price, even used ones are in the ball park of a newer scag. My experience was while I was away at school for a year on campus maintenance and they are were a blast to use. i ended up being the only kid that was allowed to use them on hills that even our supervisors hated mowing. Great machines.
I have 4acres of land would a rear mount mower be better than a mid mount Wich is what I have and it's pain in the but hooking up the PTO. Also what's the price range for rear mount mower?
I'm sure you've figured it out by now, but for anyone else asking this question....if you don't have a bunch of obstacles to mow around in an open area I'd go with a 3 point finish mower over the mid mount for that application. In your lawn yeah you'd most likely want the mid mount mower as most people have flower beds, bushes, trees, etc. in their yard to have to trim around. Another option to that, I just have a 21" regular old push mower I use to trim around the perimeter of my yard, bushes, and trees, then mow the rest with my lawn tractor, takes a lot of backing up and turning around out of the mowing task by doing so, and it only adds maybe 10 minutes to my mowing by trimming with the push mower first.
If you just mow grass buy the zero turn. If you are out mowing a very large property say 4+ acres the rear mount mower which you most likely can get a larger deck on might be the way to go. Course you can buy 3-4 zero turn mowers and still be cheaper than even a BX with a rear mount mower most likely or be very close in price. I don't have a zero turn mower just a lawn tractor. I have an acre, takes maybe an hour to an hour and a half to mow everything. Not too bad, however, I'm at the point where a loader and a few implements would be very useful so in my case buying the BX with a mid mount mower might be ok for the open what used to be pasture area but in my yard a lawn tractor or zero turn would still be the way to go, people think the BX sub compact tractor is just a lawnmower but until you've tried operating one in a small yard with obstacles you have no idea how much bigger even the BX sub compact tractor is. You can mow faster on a zero turn mower than you can with the mid mount mower on a sub-compact or compact tractor, and you can more easily maneuver around obstacles with a zero turn mower or even a lawn tractor than you can with a sub-compact or compact tractor just due to their size and weight.
David Seehorsch option on kubota website has the 72" mower. The 60" mower is tractor width so if you are going through trees it's much easier to maneuver because of less overhang.
Well, okay, you can do stripes with a roller behind any mower. A reel mower cuts with a bladed cylinder (like an old style manual powered push-mower). That naturally lays the grass at an angle, which gives you stripes. Pull-behind versions are often used in stadia or golf courses, and make the stripes. If you want the effect, pull a roller around to tilt the grass in each direction, behind your mower.
@@MessicksEquip Thank you.....it will be cut at 3.5-5" depending on rain....it is already manicured. I am trying to crunch numbers to see if I can up productivity on a couple large properties to buy a tractor. Currently mowing with a Scag V-Ride II 52". I guess I will have to go bigger to get the 6 foot finish mower. Thank ypu
Recently i picked up a used woods rear mower, i have it hooked to my b23s. Having a hard time keeping the height consistent as it only has 2 rear castor wheels out back. Also the bx23s dose not have a 3 point stop settings. ...... any suggestions?
@@seankelly353 I thought they all had that "speed valve" just in front of the seat. Set the height you want by turning that knob as it lowers....... No?
There is an optional kit to add front casters and/or a front roller. Work great. Otherwise, set check chains to hold the draft arms up to guide the front.
Anything bigger than about 54 inches is VERY hard to service, remove the blades, clean the underside, put sharp blades back on. The RFM isn't easy, but at least it's possible.
Agreed. When I remove the loader on my B2601 and mow with my 4ft bush hog, the front end wants to slide. So I just remove the bucket and leave the loader arms attached and that is enough weight to counter the 4ft bush hog. 5ft would be a lot for the B2601. The 4ft mower doubles the length of the tractor so there is a lot of weight cantilevered out back.
Man if you had a front 3 point hitch you could get the beat of both. If only there was a comoact tractor that had a front hitch. 🤔 **cough **cough* *Ventrac**cough* Lol.😁
We sell Steiner, Ventracs cousin. Fantastic tractors, for some applications. Phenomenally expensive, which is the biggest drawback. Performance of the Implement is inconsistent. Great machines, for the right application.
