That was an excellent video! How long did that entire process take you? Very impressive, your work shows how much care you put into what you do, young enthusiasts should learn from you.
Do you soak your engine parts in anything before putting the engine back together? Or do you buy a kit to rebuild the engine? Some say original parts, screws and bolts are best. What is your take on this?
@@thewholls7176 they definitely cool better, I do have quite a few friends out that way running the early motors though, and your in luck, my best flathead parts distributor is in Australia!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Very good but I can tell you don’t see many of em..... What you do see a lot of is 351 Clevelands and Windsor’s small block chevies...... I’ve got a 5.4 L Ford Fairlane which is a three 330 in.³ Windsor motor it does really well Same motor is in the Ford Triton in the USA and it gets a bad rap but if you change the engine oil every 5000 km you do not have a problem other than spark plug removal and there’s a way to handle that
@@thewholls7176 nice! I know a couple of the ford engines have problems with the spark plugs, either braking coming out or just plain blowing them out completely, I used to be a mechanic at a ford dealership here
Bro, Bout how long should I torche the nuts and studs its hard to guess with the video sped up. Also Should I use the rosebud tip ? Also did you previously soak all the bolts/nuts with solvent?
I have previously been soaking the nuts in Kroll penetrating oil for a couple days, when I am heating up the nuts I use a welding tip but a rosebud tip will work also, there isn’t a certain amount of time the goal is to make the nut red hot, once it is red hot you can move onto the next one, let them all cool before trying to remove, if one feels like it isn’t breaking loose, get it red hot again, last thing you want to do is rush it and break a bead bolt
Thanks for the videos! I’m tearing down a 59ab. I can’t get the heads to separate from the block (All nuts are removed). Any suggestions would be appreciated.
If your engine isn’t stuck and was running you could try cranking it over so it creates pressure and lifts the head. If it’s not running and spins freely you can try putting small rope through the spark plug hole in one of the center cylinders and spin the engine over with a ratchet and it’ll push the head up., worst case scenario you can lightly hammer a wedge on both sides but be super careful not to go too hard at it, you could damage the block surface
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thanks. Unfortunately the engine doesn’t run and is stuck. Hoping to have a look inside before I pull it out of the car... I appreciate your videos and your eagerness to help people!! Thanks again!
They are the same, I just worked on a 1950 Fire Truck and it was also the same, it “should” be an 8BA with just 8RT water pumps and might have two belts opposed to one, outside from that they are the same
If you don’t heat the head studs, they will break off in the block, then you have to weld a nut on to get it out, creating heat anyways, done about two dozen this way with no issues
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Yeah, I was working on an 8BA, the valves came out relatively easy, unfortunately when I pulled the pan off, the bottom of the block had massive cracks on both sides.
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop On the bottom sides of the block that mate to the pan. On one side the crack runs almost 3/4 the length of the block, not visible on the outside. The other side the crack is about 4". I was unable to load pictures.