Complete guide to mixing lime mortar 

I am delighted that we could help you. Thank you.

peace out Agree

Great video, thank you

Thank you very much for those kind words. This mix was was on a pointing video which is also on our RU-vid page. We hope to do a plastering video in the near future.

Thank you for your lovely message. If you drop me an email on harry@lochplace.com, I will help you out as much as possible.

Here is the link to the images. I'll get an email sent as soon as I get the time tomorrow. Thank you! (Just imagine and entire basement like this and not just these small image areas) drive.google.com/folderview?id=15--g6ahGXhYzczVAzJKwJK6ZXoxJl4Kt

@@roundtowerlimes9863 thanks for the nice video can you please help on the mix of lime cement and sand for platering adobe house in africa

@@justiceforall2393 Hello, Can you send me an email to harry@lochplace.com please.

sorry - just saw the sharp sand comment below. Any guidance on washing ?

What matters is that the mortar should be a little weaker than the material it is being applied to. Cement is the strongest and is only for modern buildings. The problem with using cement on Victorian and older building is it can't flex with movement in the wall so it just cracks. Worse still, it does not let water vapor out of the wall so it causes damp problems, whereas lime mortar is breathable, allowing the wall to dry. Also, lime can self-heal to some extent. Natural hydraulic lime (NHL) comes in different strengths. Non-hydraulic lime (putty) is the weakest but most flexible and breathable so it is suited for earth and cob construction, for example. In other words, if the building was constructed before Portland cement was invented, then stay well away from cement as it will just fail and cause damage. Just my 2 pennies.

Hello Darryl, hydrated lime and natural hydraulic lime (NHL) are not the same. NHL is a binder, and when mixed with sand/water creates a mortar. Hydrated lime is used as a plasticiser in cement mixes. Ideally you would be looking for a NHL or lime putty. I would also be cautious with rising damp. There is no such thing really... Is there moisture coming into building any other way? Are all your gutters, downpipes etc in good looking condition? It is working increasing drainage on the outside. Is the exterior ground level higher than the interior? A drain around the outside of the house may help the problem.

Washed sharp sand.

​@@roundtowerlimes9863hi ,,is it possible to use building sand to get a smoother finish for pointing ?

Sand weight will vary dependant on water content. Measuring by volume is more consistent than by weight.

Hello, You can use 1 part sand but it would need to be fine silica sand mixed with 1 part Roundtower NHL 2. If you would like any assistance please do give us a call on +353 21 477 6677. Thanks

@@roundtowerlimes9863 Ok, thank you very much for the information. Much appreciated. Kind Regards.

@@roundtowerlimes9863 What is the difference in practise between nhl 2/3.3/5 in plastering etc?

What's your mix for the finish coat lime render?

Hello, we would usually recommend Roundtower NHL 2 for internal works. It is worth having a read on the technical section of our website for more info, www.roundtowerlime.com/applications/internal-plastering

Hi. Traditionally when working with lime the lime binder was mixed with the aggregate (sand /gravel) and left to sour out for a period of time. There were what was called non hydraulic limes. On this demonstration we were showing how to mix a Roundtower natural hydraulic 3.5 lime. Generally hydraulic limes are mixed and used immediately. I hope this helps clear up any confusion.

Powdered lime is safe to work with.

This mix would be perfect. It is made up of 2.5 parts sand and 1 part Roundtower Natural Hydraulic Lime (3.5).

@@roundtowerlimes9863 interesting, I do have to lay few courses in order to fix my front garden wall in front of my house and want use lime mortar as it was originally done. Therefore, I know in this condition mortar is good for pointing but for laying “bedding” bricks it looks to be in quite semi dry condition. Would it be advisable to add more water to make the mortar more workable and pliable? Would appreciate your advise. Thanks.

I tried quite a stiff mix with 3-/1 using sharp sand and it takes a mallet to knock the bricks down. I make it quite sloppy cement so the consistency is more like cement mortar. Had quite good results this way, just needs a gentle push or trowel tap to knock down

I would put water in first.

I find pissing in it first helps sticking

@@mikede2331 Dirty little habit you have there; but we don't want the sticking, do we, mike de!

@@johnsomerset1510 ;)

We were trying to do things slowly and make sure people got an idea of exactly what we were doing. It could be done quicker, should you be in a rush.

Hello, This was just a sample mix.

The lime sets it off slowly

Very true!

Hahaha!! Spot on there.

Thank you very much.

Lime need to be mixed dry first and left for a while...

How would you mix a fine dry powdered lime.

Hydraulic lime and Hydrated lime are completely different. Hydrated lime is used in cement mixes to make the mix for workable. Hydraulic lime is available from HSR group in South Adelaide.

Hi Katie, the amount of water added is determined by many factors such as, how wet the sand is, what job the mortar is going to be used for e.g Pointing or Rendering etc. If you would like some technical advice please give us a call 021 477 6677 or 0044 1737 245554.

On this demo we were using Roundtower Natural Hydraulic Lime.

You slake quicklime (raw pellets of bunt limestone. Bagged lime has already been slaked you are just rehydrating. A lot of purists use hotlime by mixing sand and quicklime with sand and slake on site.

Alexander Muir no way

I saw that and suddenly felt like my 3 year old mixer is in great shape haha