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Complete Teardown of the QS138 90H Motor | The Best Cheapest Motor? 

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Complete disassembly the QS138 90H motor. This motor was damaged due to a fire and I decided to take it apart to have a look at the design and construction. Definitely some interesting results!
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Some more stats I forgot to cover in the video:
# of turns in the stator coils = 50
Coil wire diameter is ~0.5mm - I think that's 24 AWG
Phase wires are comprised of two coils so 100 total strands = 4 AWG
Aliexpress store that sold me faulty motor *AVOID*
www.aliexpress.com/store/1100480730
0:00 Intro
1:06 Removing the bolt
1:30 Removing the sprocket
2:05 Inspecting the shaft & sprocket key
2:26 Removing the front face
3:30 Removing the front face bearing
3:48 Inspecting the damaged windings
4:30 Inspecting the stator design
5:42 Pole pairs disambiguation
6:15 Removing the back face
7:35 Looking at hall sensor wires
8:02 Removing the hall sensor cover
8:41 Inspecting & removing the hall sensor
9:50 Removing the back face from the bearing
10:26 Removing the back face bearing
10:40 Separating the rotor from the stator
11:30 Inspecting the rotor design
12:40 Inspecting the coil windings from the rear side
13:17 Disassembling the phase wires pass-through
14:00 Closer inspection of coil windings
16:07 Cutting the coil windings for removal from the stator
17:17 Separating the coil windings from the stator
18:20 Closer look at bare stator and damage from fire
20:13 Thermistor removal
21:02 Summary
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21 ноя 2022

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Комментарии : 120   
@MrDehicka
@MrDehicka Год назад
Thanks from all of us QS138 owners for such a quality and detailed video! I have disassembled QS120 and QS138 before, so some little tips if you are do it to a healthy motor and then reassemble it back without a damage: Unscrew the hall magnet plate before taking the rear cover off. It is not shown in this video because it is between the two rear covers behind the hall sensor pcb. Mark the rear cover position over the casing so you can correctly position the hall sensors during reassembly. The easy way to take out the rotor is to secure it in the vice and just pull the stator away by hands with one quick motion. If you can not do it completely in one motion, it can damage the stator windings because the shaft end will try to stick to one side of the stator. If you plan to replace the shaft (you can get spares from QS), it is not easy to pull the shaft from the rotor. It is glued with permanent threadlock and you need to heat it up before pulling the rotor.
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
This was my hope & very good tips! Thank you!!
@Fellafoe69
@Fellafoe69 Год назад
If you heat the shaft up it will permanently damage the magnets!
@toroddlnning6806
@toroddlnning6806 11 месяцев назад
​@@GaiusGarage would it be possible to convert this type of motor into a variable magnetic field motor. The rotor seems a bit hard to press back and forth. I was thinking about reducing the torque for regenerative braking. hydrogenerator from a boat propeller in reverse, maybe with some flywheels and gears to help.
@eastwood111
@eastwood111 Год назад
That’s pretty cool trick with the magnet in your hand to count the poles
@ryanm158
@ryanm158 Год назад
seriously impressed! I have a qs13870h V3 and this is the first insight I've had into getting at the hall sensors in the 138 motors. excellent content amigo ;) thank you!
@tuguybear930
@tuguybear930 4 месяца назад
Rewinding can seem and look daunting but just making notes as you disassemble helps and winding coils is easy. Just count the number of winds on the original coils. I've done it. It isn't so difficult.
@cesarhoyos6955
@cesarhoyos6955 Год назад
beautiful technology, thanks, I learned a lot about this motor
@ELECTRICMOTOCROSSMACHINE
@ELECTRICMOTOCROSSMACHINE Год назад
Thanks for doing the work for us!
@ize100
@ize100 Год назад
Wow that's incredible figuring the magnet positions so simple but smart
@natygueta
@natygueta Год назад
Awesome video brother!! Keep doing it bro!
@HubbHubbs
@HubbHubbs Год назад
Brilliant vid, I dont even have these motors, but couldnt stop watching, I bet they are all pretty similar.
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
Thank you! actually a good deal of variation in terms of design between definitely popular EV motors
@natygueta
@natygueta 19 дней назад
Thank you so much brother ❤
@mrkelkel11
@mrkelkel11 Год назад
Dropping by just to say thanks a bunch for this teardown! I'm using the QS138 on a PhD project, didn't want to tear down my brand new motor just yet :)
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
much appreciated! glad it's helpful. What's your PhD project covering?
@mrkelkel11
@mrkelkel11 Год назад
​@@GaiusGarage Its mostly about real-time torque ripple reduction under different speeds, loads and no. of motors, and I'm trying to achieve that solely through control, so no structural changes to the motor itself. I'm still reviewing literature and prepping for FEA (hence my gratitude for the teardown :)
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@mrkelkel11 Ah interesting! Would definitely love to read the dissertation once completed!
@mrkelkel11
@mrkelkel11 Год назад
​@@GaiusGarage Absolutely! Good luck with the ebike builds too, the Fardrivers are notoriously hard to tune (spent a month wrangling my 72360 for a 14kW, 9kWh moped build) but work like a dream once tamed.
@Codyhumburg
@Codyhumburg 2 месяца назад
Great knowledge shared here!
@renegarcia1807
@renegarcia1807 Год назад
Very good job man very interesting and like I said the controller had nothing to do with that fire in the motor nicely done
@Ali-Builds
@Ali-Builds Год назад
Thanks for your great effort
@user-tp9jk9vi4t
@user-tp9jk9vi4t Год назад
Thank you for this video ❤️
@fjrh8911
@fjrh8911 Год назад
Very informative video, thank you! Would be interesting to get a clearer view of the magnets and laminates in the rotor.
@renegarcia1807
@renegarcia1807 Год назад
Thanks for your video very, very good!!!!
@ElDiabloDirt
@ElDiabloDirt Год назад
Great video. If you leave out the soldering issues, the motor actually looks really well built for its price. Two questions: Did you ever count the conductors per slot and/or the turns in series/parallel. And secondly did you analyze the phase distribution before cutting the winding? For 12slots/10poles there should be two coils of one phase in two neighboring slots. Maybe that's why there was a problem with the software saying 4 rmf poles when it's actually just 2?
@joaopauloxavier5318
@joaopauloxavier5318 8 месяцев назад
Excelente! Sou do Brasil!
@aaronjones356
@aaronjones356 4 месяца назад
I have one small correction, because you keep switching the terms: The STATor is STATionary, and the ROTor is ROTational If you're ever wondering which you are looking at just look at the beginning of the word! Very easy. Otherwise very useful and informative video. Thank you!
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage 4 месяца назад
I may have misspoken somewhere - correct, the rotor is the thing with the magents that rotates inside the stator with the coils. Thank you!
@daruspastorello
@daruspastorello 9 месяцев назад
Too bad you burnt your motor but this was a very interesting and informative video! Kudos!
@The205GTIman
@The205GTIman 2 месяца назад
Very interesting and useful! I have a qs180 incoming and will for sure check the lugs. Probably I will cut the 30mm2 phase wires and replace/enhance them with 95mm2 wires. I’m finding it difficult to understand why the bad connection of the p-wire lugs would overheat the coils inside the motor. I can understand that the p-wire lead into the motor would overheat when only a few strings are actually connected to the controller. But after the splitting of the phase wires inside the motor, into two parallel strings, twisted and connected with solder, every string should carry current. So then it is not logical to me why the phase wires inside the motor itself would also overheat. Maybe there was a problem with the controller after all and the ‘firing’ of the phases was not timed correctly? It seems weird that it would fail this way, just because of some poor connection at the lugs?
@VictorFainello
@VictorFainello Год назад
Wow. This was very informative. Thank you for showing us this. Do you mind measuring the rotor diameter with your calipers just so I can compare with a different brand of motor? Thanks
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
The rotor is 84.85mm in diameter
@user-iu8yl2ff4g
@user-iu8yl2ff4g 3 месяца назад
Are you going to rewind it? Would be hella interesting, maybe this time in a delta configuration instead of a star config
@Enonymouse_
@Enonymouse_ Год назад
The bad cables with the lugs also had no weather sealing at all.
@Vmaxfodder
@Vmaxfodder Год назад
extra crispy ! get some dipping sauce !
@painmad
@painmad 4 месяца назад
Hi, I found your video very interesting. I hope you are still around because I need to ask you something, I have a faulty hall sensor and need to replace it... only 1 place I found was on Alipress, I think is not possible that I am the only person that have a faulty hall sensor. THX
@veldhuisracing
@veldhuisracing Год назад
How did you end up getting the pulley off? I’ve tried an impact gun, but the only thing I’m moving is the skirts of the pulley…
@jamesford1709
@jamesford1709 Год назад
They’re tamperproof torx bits, the first set you undid
@cesarhoyos6955
@cesarhoyos6955 Год назад
It is curious to see that if they soldered well inside the motor but not in the terminals, the terminals must be soldered, very good analysis.
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
I think maybe the motor was manufactured by one party then shipped without the terminal lugs to a reseller. just my guess
@christianpaulroldan4010
@christianpaulroldan4010 7 месяцев назад
If you want to remove the rear cover, first you pull out the shaft carefully on a vise. That way you can remove the shaft on the cover easier
@Codyhumburg
@Codyhumburg Год назад
My favorite so far. Hey, what do you use as your phase wire termination block on you swingarm? (Bomber)
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
I just used one of those blocks that come with certain ebike kits. not really sure what the proper name is
@n0s0ul333
@n0s0ul333 Год назад
Great video! thanks for taechning me about the poles and pairs! Do you know the Kv of this motor?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
Thank you! I actually don't know the KV of this motor off-hand. But since this is a PMSM AC motor the KV would be expressed in terms of frequency per voltage applied. so the formula is RPM/60 = frequency, and KV = frequency / voltage
@christianpaulroldan4010
@christianpaulroldan4010 7 месяцев назад
Why not use vise grip? You can hold the shaft from the chain.
@DPTech_workroom
@DPTech_workroom Год назад
How much RPM can produce this motor in star connection and delta connection with 48v? In delta it should give more RPM and need to handle more current (need more thick wire)
@josedelmontealmansa6259
@josedelmontealmansa6259 Год назад
its epic owemzome!!!
@Vmaxfodder
@Vmaxfodder Год назад
finally !!
@GroovyVideo2
@GroovyVideo2 Год назад
maybe cut wire bundle with vibrator tool ?
@Vmaxfodder
@Vmaxfodder Год назад
great !!! now do a fardriver controller ! no one has done one yet !!
@jppatel4831
@jppatel4831 Год назад
How many turns per slot you would have considered for rewinding the Motor? And also a number of wires in One Strand?
@Bigmouthh69
@Bigmouthh69 4 месяца назад
How long it run before it burn ,thank
@zacharycofer5929
@zacharycofer5929 4 месяца назад
How do you plan on rewinding it when you cut all the winding out of it without counting how many turns each one has?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage 4 месяца назад
I gave up on re-winding it. too much work when I can just sell the sell the rotor and stator for parts and put the proceeds towards a new motor, which is what I ended up doing
@wahyuwiant1791
@wahyuwiant1791 Год назад
What about golden motor? Better than QS motor?
@dbc105
@dbc105 Год назад
Good stuff, great vid, thanks. Do you know the difference between the 90H and the 70H? My guess is it is a bigger motor but I don't know that and in trying to look at specs it can be hard to get the same info on the same motor in 2 different places. Also, what controller were you running it with?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
I honestly dont know what the "H" in 90 & 70 refer to. If I had to guess it would be related to the KV value of the motor..the rate at which it turn per volt. This is probably why the 70H often comes with a gearbox. The controller I was using is the Fardriver ND96530 - but I dont particularly recommend it mostly because the app and/or PC software to program it is total garbage. constant bugs that wont allow you to dial in the settings and support is shit
@dbc105
@dbc105 Год назад
@@GaiusGarage Do you know if they are they physically about the same size? Not figuring the gearbox 70.
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@dbc105 the 70h is smaller
@dbc105
@dbc105 Год назад
@@GaiusGarage I found what the name all means, 138 is the diameter of the rotor and 70 is the width of the magnets. So a 138 90H has magnets 20mm longer that in turn would mean the rotor is longer also. that is the way I understood it all and it makes perfect sense. I also saw that it looks as though they are either building or working on a 138 90H with gear reduction built in. Given the motor being at least 20mm wider I'm thinking it might be better to built with a jackshaft so the motor can be centered in the frame. I'm not yet building so that is just a guess.
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@dbc105 Ah! nice! it does make total sense. Thanks for the update on this! Mystery solved
@wahida5355
@wahida5355 6 месяцев назад
Where can i buy that kind of hall sensor pcb? My reading on green is not same with yellow and blue..
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage 6 месяцев назад
I don't think you can buy just the PCB. maybe you can pick up a motor that's for parts or reach out QS motor and ask if they can sell you one
@THEPAINOFITALL
@THEPAINOFITALL Год назад
How much was the motor on aliexpress, it been blocked?
@madanpatil1578
@madanpatil1578 Год назад
Very good informative, Sir. Also please counts no of wires in slot. Wire gauge. And number of parallel wire also which is also for us.
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
ah! I meant to do this but forgot 😖 I will add to the description
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
I don't know the wire gauge but one is 0.5mm in diameter and there are 50 turns per coil
@VictorFainello
@VictorFainello Год назад
@@GaiusGarage It appears to be a 22 or 23AWG. By 50 turns per coil I think you meant 50 strands, right? If so, that would roughly equal a 6AWG wire, which is the same thickness of a Sur Ron phase wire.
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@VictorFainello 50 turns per coil in the stator so yes, 50 strands per coil but the phase wires were comprised of two coils so 100 strands total in the phase wires - they are 4AWG
@Funfailus
@Funfailus 8 месяцев назад
this motor easily rewind if he understand the winding data otherwise stator are fine
@maarkkkm
@maarkkkm Год назад
Great video, really in depth. Do you have another motor on the way?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
Thanks! yeah I have one swapped out already. Runs cool as can be now
@jamieforrester7108
@jamieforrester7108 Год назад
did you go with a different vendor? I'm curious how you could know how to avoid one with issues with the lugs like this motor experienced?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@jamieforrester7108 I dont think there is any way to know ahead of time but I did use a difference vendor for the new motor. Official Siacosys store on Aliexpress seems to be legit. I added the vendor who sold me the faulty motor to the description
@matickovac
@matickovac Год назад
@@GaiusGarage Thanks for sharing. Isn't that the official QC motors shop on Aliexpress? And wouldn't the terminal be mounted by the producer, directly in the factory, and has nothing to do with the vendor?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@matickovac I don't think so - there are a bunch of these clone shops on Aliexpress and there are a few different "QS motor" websites -- I don't know if they're all affiliated or if it's branding. I *think* Siacosys is who actually develops (and manufactures??) these motors then they resell them to various vendors. But I suspect they sell them without the terminals crimped. The other motor I got from Siacossys was crimped correctly. but I'm really not sure how it works
@peterfleming494
@peterfleming494 Год назад
Hi the qs138 v3 90h How many wire strands in each phase wires ??
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
50 turns per coil but phase wires are made up of two coils so 100 strands in each phase wire
@peterfleming494
@peterfleming494 Год назад
@@GaiusGarage hi thanks, for the info, the wire strand diameter ?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@peterfleming494 0.5mm I think that's 24AWG
@peterfleming494
@peterfleming494 Год назад
@@GaiusGarage hi thanks
@jeffreyrh
@jeffreyrh Год назад
What is the screw size for the 6 mounting holes on each side?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
M8
@jeffreyrh
@jeffreyrh Год назад
@@GaiusGarage Thanks! M8-1.25 and looks like about 12mm of thread depth.
@megicom
@megicom Год назад
pls make winding video 😁✌
@Dat_Sun
@Dat_Sun Год назад
How much does the electric motor weigh?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
I did not weigh it before disassembly. this information is likely available in the spec sheet
@Adrian-hw1no
@Adrian-hw1no Год назад
My engine also burned out, only the qs 138 70h model, the copper winding was replaced and everything is ok, but it overheats at low current, e.g. 150A, and the previous qs 138 50h did not heat up so much and was much weaker. The driver is FAR ND72530. I'm afraid that during the combustion the magnets may have lost their power and therefore the motor draws more A than it should, e.g. when it accelerates. If it's not the fault of the magnets, what could it be overheating from? I would be very grateful for help. Regards and have a nice day
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
hard to say, unfortunately. could be settings in the controller but I'm not sure what the correct ones would be
@Adrian-hw1no
@Adrian-hw1no Год назад
@@GaiusGarage Hello friend thank you for your answer, and this driver with this engine works well for you? I don't know if it's not the driver's fault, I want to try votola em150 or 200.
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@Adrian-hw1no actually, I am very much unsatisfied with the Fardriver controller. Price is good and it does work, but app is garbage making good programming virtually impossible. documentation is inexplicable, and support is useless. I would use this only if you are on a budget. Many better options out there. I plan to make a video on why this controller sucks in the near future
@Adrian-hw1no
@Adrian-hw1no Год назад
@@GaiusGarage Well, I think I'm going to change it to something else, what would you recommend instead?
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@Adrian-hw1no just depends on your budget. Kelly controllers are pretty good. BAC4000 and BAC8000 are great but more expensive. The EBMX X9000 looks really awesome but price is too much. Then there's the Votol controllers, which I think are made by the same company as Fardriver..I don't really have an experience with them. The bottom line is that all of the common controllers on the market will do a good job, if you can program them correctly. Unfortunately, these Chinese companies don't put seem to put very much effort into build intuitive and robust software or good English documentation
@dilanmontgomery5505
@dilanmontgomery5505 10 месяцев назад
So I had a ebike motor and Il couldn't figure out the hall sensors wires so I just deleted them all and I never saw a difference in performance or speed control am I gunna end up destroying something
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage 10 месяцев назад
you probably have a BLDC motor (as opposed to sinosoidal AC, like this QS138) or what you removed was not a hall sensor. the hall sensor tell the controller when to switch phases - it's like your brain reading the position of your legs to tell you when to switch for walking. if you did not know where your legs were at any given moment, you would not be able to coordinate a stride
@dilanmontgomery5505
@dilanmontgomery5505 10 месяцев назад
@GaiusGarage ok ya I remember reading something blcd or we but thanks I didn't know the difference
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage 10 месяцев назад
@@dilanmontgomery5505 no problem! BLDC motor are more simple and just require a speed controller that switches the three phases at some rate - you don't need any other components, although you often have an additional signal wire that let's you increase or decrease that rate. With sinusoidal AC motors, the motor controller needs to know the position of the rotor relative to the stator and adjust the amplutide of the three phases accordingly. a hall sensor is one way to read the motor position, a sinusoidal encoder is another common one..probably some other techniques as well
@vijaykorvekar1009
@vijaykorvekar1009 Год назад
For how long can I run the motor at 15kw straight
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
I'm not sure - better to ask the manufacturer
@jacobclark89
@jacobclark89 2 месяца назад
I would be more concerned that the heat might have damaged the magnets
@Ray88G
@Ray88G Год назад
This is second case when I see one of these motors burned up like this . To prevent this from happening again I would suggest pot the motor with special heat conductive motor potting compound after re-winding it . Here's a very good example of what happens inside the motor with windings when it operates .. The windings rub up against each other .. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lPNU2vniUIc.html
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
very interesting! thank you for the link. the new motor I have barely heats up even when riding aggressively. I think in this case, crimping the lugs onto enamel was the primary cause of the fire
@rvvlogs4077
@rvvlogs4077 Год назад
Please upload video on rewinding this motor
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
the stator was a bit damaged and I sold the motor for parts already so no rewinding video unfortunately
@rvvlogs4077
@rvvlogs4077 Год назад
😊 thank you
@rvvlogs4077
@rvvlogs4077 Год назад
How much price you sold the motor
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
@@rvvlogs4077 around $200 I think
@renegarcia1807
@renegarcia1807 Год назад
Honestly I do not think it would be a good idea to reuse that stator to me it seems damaged as you mentioned
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
agreed!
@Ray88G
@Ray88G Год назад
That's not how you remove windings. You had to find one of the phases and remove all stops which in tje middle of stator teeth , then you un-wind the motir and see how it's wound . This way you also see how many turks there are . Now you will have difficult time figuring out how it was wound ..
@GaiusGarage
@GaiusGarage Год назад
yeah no kidding lol. this was my original plan but it just seemed impossible to pull an individual winding out of a slot. I forgot to count the turns for the video but I can still do this from the windings that I pulled out. I probably will not attempt to rewind this motor, just seems like alot of tedious work and I'd prob screw it up anyway - lose count of turns, etc. plus, like I mentioned, there's some evident damages to the stator laminate so not even sure it's viable to do. will probably just sell for parts or turn into an art piece
@authentic4225
@authentic4225 7 месяцев назад
My wires are colored
@nicod974
@nicod974 Год назад
If you pushed 13kw through this 4000w motor more than 10 seconds , no wonder why it's fried...
@TheAtomstrike
@TheAtomstrike 2 месяца назад
нет пропитки лаком, нет изоляции лобовых частей обмоток. При работе мотора провода немного вибрируют, протирается лаковая изоляция и происходит замыкание