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I was thinking the same thing. Also make the center spike a half an inch longer so it holds the wood more securely. Then it would really go to town on a cord of wood.
Beautiful idea. But i recommend getting another square piece of metal and criss-cross cutting it into triangles then adding them to the base but welding them at an angle from center, down, and out like this "/ \". The objective is to force the wood outwards so you dont run into the issue where if the wood is soft it could get stuck at the base. Problem solved. It may also provide a little more metal to provide support for the middle spike by welding the tips of the triangle pieces to it in the center spike.
I thought the same thing. Instead of using four hatchet heads, use three for easier movement of the wood. Still a nice design. I'm surprised eBay hasn't been selling this thing
He invented a new, smart method which can be made in such a short time, unlike other inventions which need a lot of things to make, not affordable, which cannot be made by everyone. This is fantabulous, afforfable, efficient, can be made by almost anyone with appropriate tools. Great work, when are you starting your business? Good luck.
He's literally using the exact same tools that all those other people in those other videos used. They're the same tools you would find every fabricator using. The only difference is this design takes less time to make and uses less materials. It's not going to be any easier for your average Joe to make though.
Great creation to chop soft wood, I am in Australia and our timber is hard wood, I would be there for hours unclogging the axe heads, I did cringe when you cut the handles of the axes, but it was for a good cause, thank you
It's a start. I thought I would redesign it like a guillotine/ hammer Make the weight going down from concrete on a leaver and fulcrum with long handle. Enough to do two logs at once. Then I just need to jump up and grab the leaver and my body weight brings the leaver down. Leaver out of steel pipe, with a trip for when I want to release it.
Wood is ranked in hardness by pressing ball bearings into the wood and how much pressure it takes. On every continent with trees their are soft woods and hard woods. Hickory trees are some of the hardest In The world and they grow all over. The idea that all trees in Australia are "extra hard" is incorrect. Figure out the species of tree and look at the hardness ranking world wide. Australia doesn't have any top ranking species for hardness....
Easy soft wood easy split. Hard wood with hidden strong knots will make it difficult. A for trying F for safety Hazard. Try some western pine. Hear the huffing and puffing. Ok to make kindling.
Wonderfull invention. Perhaps, add a 4 inch extension plate, to the bottom (hammer end) of those axe heads........thereby increasing the splitting difference; very obvious at 6:00 time and onward. Maybe space the heads, another 1/2 apart, each one..... ( Weld this invention, onto the end of a hydraulic / motor powered horizontal splitter. Add a tip-over base, for it so the pieces, can roll on out.....foot operated with a lever, and maybe a spring return ?........? ideas.....
One, probably would've been easier just purchasing four axe heads. Two, can you make one for me? I'll pay for your time and parts and shipping. This looks amazing
Im pretty sure that wont work with, black jack, post oak, hickory, or any other hard wood, but maybe on some red oak. But looks like it works good with that soft wood
Get four younguns to swing them things! Why are people always ruining perfectly good tools? Original mousetrap still manufactured to this very day....."creating content"🙄
Your design needs one change. You need a central spike that sets just a bit higher than your blades. This would give a "seat" for the log to be cut. Other than that one change, your idea is good.
Ummm... Did you watch a different video. He welded one in there. I thought it may have needed to be a bit more stout but it did the trick most of the time.
Hey Kenneth. I have an answer to your question... Doesn't work with oak. We have Tan oak here in Northern California and they are dying from disease. So that's what we burn instead of cutting down redwoods. I made this over the last week and tried it yesterday and it will not go through the tan oak unfortunately. I'll probably end up using it for those few times I am splitting redwood or make it apart of a hydraulic splitter. I haven't decided yet.
@@roberthesse157 I made one of these over the last couple weeks and just tried it out yesterday. It will not go through our tan oak. It does get stuck but I used my splitting maul to get it off.
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Cool idea! I work at a steel supply company,so can take off cuts home. I’m thinking use HSS for the blades,sharpen with my grinder. Only thing I would possibly do a little different is to angle the blades slightly to get a corkscrew effect that should split the wood easier. Maybe wrong on that point,but metal is free,I can weld,so give it a try.
Definitely good idea... I agree with the idea of center spike being an inch or 2 longer.... Now 1 thing i do see that would make it better is an angled piece between each blade that comes up half way as an extra aid to the separation of the log... Each one should be broad sided like a slide almost
Another plate just like the bottom but cut diagonally into quarter pieces and welded intermediately at a 45° angle in the spaces between the blades...would allow better inertial flow during the splitting process!!!😁👍🏻
Wood looks like Fir . Split it with a butter knife. Try your idea on a good ol' wet piece of Maple, oak, Birch..yellow birch even better....It is a nice idea...good for Fir splits and kindling. Speeds up the process. I find splitting some splits & kindling on a nice sunny day, kind of like meditation , sometimes like widdling a stick.....peaceful...serene...then get up and go at some good ol' Canadian Rock Maple....yer gonna need a lil' more par ! 😎👍😉
Great log splitter! Only thing i think id add to it is some triangle pieces of metal between the ax heads to help spread the pieces out from the ax heads.. maybe a longer spike in the middle too.
Just a thought as an engineer, I’d be interested to see what a mk 2 design with a single, four bladed peace of steel with blades shaped to force the wood outward would do. I’d be happy to do some CAD mock ups for you because I don’t have the tools presently for fabrication and it seems you do.
Just a suggestion because God knows I hate it when a person comes up with the great idea internet person tell someone( an ex-employee of Lockheed skunkworks) and then they are going to improve on what as I see already works just fine. Would be four more blades in the gaps between the Four that you already have but smaller shorter. So that the quarters are quartered again .
Can someone tell me how to buy this now? This could have been a relief splitting wood for my grandma then in the days. Now I split wood for sports and helping my old neighbors in my neighborhood warm up.
Is Spike in the center needs to be about an inch or too longer. Great concept but I'd like to see you do that with seasoned oak that's not oak that's popular or something
I would rather see it done with elm. Red oak would be okay, but white or black oak would be a real pain to do. I can think of a lot worse things to split than oak though. For the last 3 weeks and weekends that's all we've done in our free time. Spent 4 to 5 hours every day this week splitting.
Truth. My father used something very similar in the 70s on our land in New Haven Michigan. But it's been decades since I've seen one. Great execution though!
It's so simple I would imagine it was thought of before. But a good idea just the same. However, I want to see it working on red oak, ash, etc. where it's a bit tougher than what was used in the video. On the other hand, if this is the wood the guy has around the house, then so much better for him.
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I made one today and can confirm its not as effective as I hoped it would be. What I have found is that the wood keeps getting stuck on it the middle spike before the axe heads have a chance to penetrate and split the wood. I had a few ash logs lying around that have been drying in the shed for a few months and they literally just hopped off this thing. Maybe on softer wood it would be ok. I might try and lower the middle spike or remove it altogether and see if that helps any bit.
Like to see what happens when he puts a gnarly or knotted piece on there and it gets stuck but doesn't split. Removal must be fun. That said, for perfect pieces looks pretty cool. Same exercise but without the aim of a splitting ax.
While this is a good idea the axe heads are too short and the timber is bottoming out on the steel plate as well as the centre locating pin is also too short.Longer steel strips instead of the short axe heads with some form of deflection plate on the base of the steel plate to force the timber outwards and a longer locating pin to hold the timber more secure would turn this into a very effective tool .
А то, к чему прикрутил свой "квадро топор", нельзя было выбрать ровное, или обязательно должно пошатываться....??? Да и размерчик, по-моему, не тот. Да и покраска, наверное для лучшей рубки...
took the time to grind and weld axes. Should have taken the time to analyze it and make a tapered skirt and place it on a Heavy solid block. The skirt would slide the chopped wood out. Nice idea, Needs improvement before you run to market with it.
Мне понравилось, а шесть топоров сваренных таким образом избавило бы от необходимости добивать деревянную чушку до приемлимой величины. Дядька молодец!!!!!!
@@machindramerkava7110 Виктор, обратите внимание на кувалду которой пользуется автор ролика! Импульса силы достаточно для разрушения бревнышка, это же удар, действие кратковременное.
Εxcellent !! How long should the metal part of the axes be to have the best result and what is the thikness of the center metal spike ? Your info shall be valuable !! Thanks !!
I think you could sell that. My thoughts are I think it would work better with a stronger & more stable base. Certainly something wider then what you're chopping. But great job ...also it gave me a new idea...
Seems like it could also be adapted to a powered log splitter. However, use splitting axe heads instead of chopping/felling axe heads. Splitting axe heads have a wider taper to aid in splitting.
I'm making this. Edit: Made it. Doesn't work with the Tan oak that we have here. Be sure the wood you have in your area will split easily. I still plan to use this for something else.
I was thinking same thing, that this would only work for wood that splits cleanly, like Ash but not for locust, sycamore, osage orange, etc. which are knotty and tough to split.
You can buy one, they were "invented" a long time before this guy and there is even a patented version from NZ. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4-RhakR3Hg8.html
