Completing the Restoration and Testing the 1930s Craftsman Bandsaw. 

Thank you so much! Comment like this keep me motivated.

Haha,,, Thank you very much!

Beautiful job with a lot of visible moving parts. Would look fantastic under glass or clear plastic. Gear belts would have worked well on the final drives.

Thanks, I agree on the timing belt but finding the pulleys the right size is hard and when you find one the cost is high. @@ellieprice363

Interesting and you are welcome!

Yes indeed! Thanks

Thanks 👍 I've already used it several times, its great!

You bet

Me too! Thanks!

Wow, nice to hear, thanks!

I do like different, Thanks!

Good philosophy. I totally agree and will definitely use this saw... and have already.

Awesome! Thank you!

Could be, I was also a cheaper link belt. I have a smaller one on my drill press that is made much better.

The chain could do a lot more damage than the belt but the belt is still more concerning. It's on the operator side of the machine. I drilled some hole for a future guard over the belt

Thank you sir!

Very welcome, Thanks!

Glad you enjoyed it, I did too!

Interesting, i was thinking a multi-groove belt

A VX series belt is an enhancement of the V profile and the increased grip of them may be enough to work before you're forced into significant modifications (like multi-groove components). They're at least cheap to try first.

Thanks! 👍

Thanks, this was a fun project.

Thanks! Yeah the V belt still slips but it take some effort. I might try one of this multi-groove belts are a timing belt in the future but for now I'm calling it done.

Interesting, thanks

Good to hear, Thank

Wow, thanks!

Thanks, and I agree, I've already used it a few time.

The additional tension worked well but you're right, more wrap helps

Thanks 👍

Thanks

Thank you very much! Yeah, I think the link belt I have is not a good one. I have one on my drill press that works great

Thanks 👍

Go for it! But be careful.

And use white oak, red oak turns an ugly green color.

@@WinkysWorkshop I wonder if the fuming would turn white Ash wood a deep brown like the Oak.

@@howardosborne8647 As far as I know the only wood that does well is white oak. I've tried pine, poplar, red oak and beech. The red oak and beech both darkened but not as much and the beech looked okay. I have no idea about ash. Here's a cut and past from the Fine Woodworking web site: White Oak Fumes Well because of its high tannin content. Tannins are organic compounds that react to ammonia hydroxide fumes, darkening the surface. Mahogany, walnut, cherry, chestnut, redwood, and hemlock all have sufficient tannin content to fume. Keep in mind that there are no tannins in sapwood, so fuming won’t darken it. Also, tannin content varies from tree to tree, so select boards carefully-a tabletop made from several boards could have inconsistent color.

I had a plan but it did change for sure!

Thank you!

Thanks! Yeah, Its easy to switch to wood but I'm still thinking about keeping my other bandsaw.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks 👍

I think you are right. I might need to try that

I agree... also maybe a guard on the oppertor side pulley

@@WinkysWorkshop yes, 100% 👍 agree

120 is a good speed I think. Thanks.

Haha... you are probably right. As far as the belt goes, I tried belt dressing. The new pulley and tension are pretty much resolved the issue but I was also thinking about a multi-groove belt or a tooth belt.

Thanks!

Thanks, however according to the instructions I was running the belt in the correct direction. I just double checked several internet source and they all agreed.

Great work Mark. It's nice to see a project where aesthetic detail is just as important as the function. The wooden panels look beautiful.

@@Preso58 Thanks Mark, one reason I love the old machines is because they took pride in the design. I like to add to this or at least maintain the style.

@@Preso58 Preso intersecting with one of my comments? Too cool. I don't sub to anyone but have been watching your videos for years. Take care, G.

@@WinkysWorkshop Seems like the link I posted got stuck in a filter you need to approve. I've been using link belts for years and maybe I saw your video in a different way, but I will say it sure looks to me like it was running backwards. I have a video posted on Fenner link belts that should show what I'm speaking of. Take care Mark, G.

thanks

Haha... probably not buy it's a nice looking shop addition.

Ha, THANKS!

Thanks

I need to update my living room. Steel and wood look great together.

Yeah, its finished. I love woodworking but the combination of wood and metal is great.

Thanks

Thanks 👍 Haha... more Mellow on the way!

thanks

That would be ideal although the pulleys are hard to find. I'm thinking a multi-groove belt.

@@WinkysWorkshop A multi-groove belt is also a good idea, but would still require high tension.

You may be correct, I have never used one.@@keithviolette5870

thanks

A chian would work great for metal but it's too fast when cutting wood.

Haha... I like it! Thanks

The one I have is 8-12 v. pitch but you're right

@@WinkysWorkshop Side note: My Index mill was made in 1948.

I use 10/14T blades also but I sure hate that they stopped making straight 10T Bi-Metal. 1/4 x 10T x .035 Bi-Metal was our standard blade on a large Doall for 20 years in a tool & die shop. We purchased them in 100 ft rolls and cut them to length and welded and annealed them on the machine welder.

That would have been much better I think. The primary reasons were cost an availability but there was also the tension issue on the shorter belt. Easily solved with a tension idler but still another issue. So far I've only found a couple of sources for timing belt pulleys and the selections are limited and at a very high cost.

@@WinkysWorkshop Hi Mark. I buy all my belts and pulleys on eBay, very cheap and quick mostly come from China. If you pick the 5 mm pitch pulleys the belts come in 5 mm increments in length. You may have to go to one supplier for pulleys and another for belts if you want a particular length. Not all sellers have the same selection on belts. My last purchase I had to deal with 4 sellers to get the set I needed. Good luck if you do want to go down that route. Regards.

Sound like I need to dig a bit deeper, thanks@@daveticehurst4191

That would likely work well but right now its working fine.

The link belt I bought was not great... i've used others that are better

@@WinkysWorkshop where did you get it?

@@stevem268 FB marketplace

Yes, and I did. I had to order it.

Clear lens? You mean magnifying? You might be right about the electrode size.

Thanks

@@WinkysWorkshop Clear Lens: No magnification. Look them up. Instead of using the pink ceramic cups, available is a clear Pyrex lens. It's purpose is to allow you to see the work better and it also provides extraordinary light on the work. It's a whole new ballgame with these, but not harder. Welding wire / thinner tungsten: Just visit your welding shop who will provide the setup. Not expensive at all. With minimal practice, you will be able to weld intricate items with less heat.

@@richardgreen7811 AHH! Got ya. Yeah, I have been meaning to try those for a while. You just gave me the nudge I needed o:)

I like link belts but this one did not grip as well as a standard notched v belt

I think a multi-groove pulley or a timing belt. But the belt slipping isn't really a problem with more tension.