Should NEVER overcut the rise and run intersection, it causes a failure point. Seen stairs broken at that point. But great to see young guys knowledgable like this. Need to get young people back in the trades!
@@andrewfreeman88 Maybe so, but in the case of an inspection, it might mean building them over again. Better to just not over cut the corners on stringers.
The only video I've found yet, that gives detailed tips on Trex stringer and tread installation. Thank you!!! Although Trex recommends 9 or 12 inch stringer spacing, depending on the Trex product used. (Personal Notes: 2:17 & 10:11 ...9 3/4" run for composite stairs. 10:31 ...Consider step from ground. 27:27 ...tread install sequence.)
2x12 stringers fellas. After the rise and tread cut you should always have 5"+ left in your stringer. For a better overall appearance deduct 3/4" from the top tread cut only. Install all riser boards and push the treads up to the riser board. Riser boards typically don't set on top of tread boards. Also, remove 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 from the bottom front of the middle stringer and place a treated 2x4 flat on the concrete to run the inside width from the outside stringers. nail through outside stingers, toenail middle stringer, and secure to concrete with 2 wedge anchors. Oh, and don't overcut your riser/tread intersection. Finish the cut with a sawzall. Free tips from a professional carpenter of 40 years.
Such a smart guy why no comment about stair stringers being 12inches on center instead of 16on center any good composition deck builder knows that.... Quit trying to act like a smart guy... It usually points out what u don't Kno.... doing something wrong for 40 yrs doesn't make it right...
Great video, really great to watch these young lads, took me back...way back lol. PS chaps, vertical is plumb and don't over cut your stringers (I saw you had a jig saw you could of used to finish the cut, it would also eliminate the coping saw), its a bad habit, although here not the end of the world ;) All said and done that was therapy to watch lol.
Very informational , good to see younger guys at work , few things with these videos ,one everyonr does things a bit different so you are going to have people tell you how to do this or that. There are a hundred different ways to kill a cat , now as for saftey , work boots fellas work boots nails and boards dont care about your feet, and when you step on a nail or drop a board on your foot ,your going to care. Also use a push stick on the table saw ,I cant tell you how many guys I've seen hurt on jobs from improper use of table saws. Remember you guys are sharing a video how to and safety should come first!
Please keep your fingers away from the wood when shooting a nail. I have seen a nail follow the grain and curl right into a hand. They don't always go in straight. And I agree, you shouldn't over cut the stringer like that. Whoever you learned that from cut corners, rather than doing it right and makes the piece weaker. I remember when I was doing construction as a young man. Its great to have all that energy, now just concentrate on the quality and you will be unstoppable.
If you read the specs for all the composites I've seen, they say 12" max gap for stringers. 16" is ok for floor joist but not sufficient for stairs. Other than that, it is a very helpful video
Just Curious why did you cut past the corners on the stringers? Doesn't that just weekend the string regardless of the length of the stringer. Sorry had to ask great video keep up the good work.
Dave S probably I'd guess it's because he's using a right handed saw which makes it difficult to see what you're doing. For safety the blade is away from your body but about impossible for me to use effectively.
@@ruckusbird8832 right hand or left handed saw dont matter. Ive got a right handed saw an can watch where my blade is at. An stop right before that corner. Then finish the cut with a jig saw which is the proper way to cut the stringers. Leaves a nice clean cut. Ive seen alot of cuts the way these guys are cutting stringers. An yes it does an can weaken the stringer. You want to keep as much as the board as possible because those are your main supports for the steps.
Hey great video guys should definitely invest in some video clip it so you could use a stationary work and both in the video but I watch this video to get the skirt board for some tracks decking I think it’s from Shawnee your stringer cuts I can pretty much figure it out
I I noticed that you did not show adding any fastening of the post or the stringer to the concrete surface... I find that notching the stringer allowing for a 2 by 4 to be fastened to the surface... this will keep the stringer from walking away from the attaching wall... in these steps, it will keep stress off of the siding boards... I also add a 2 by 4 to each stringer at the side bottom for greater support... since someone else noted the 2 by 12 verses the 2 by 10 on the stringers I will not address this any further..
residential code is 36in all staircases and hallways minimum. bottom line is post should be shaved to be up to the code. or moved. i had to do mamba-jumba in my house with the post. ended up welding 10mm plate on top of metal post and moved him 50mm away to comply 36in requirement.
I was taught that Level is Horizontal and Plum is vertical. You were instructing the helper to hold the 4x4 post level. I get what you meant but if your instructing use the correct words. Also why are you using Pressure treated risers when you are making a composite deck and stairs? Good idea to install the back treads first to give room to screw.
Where is part 2? Wondering why you put that trim board on the inside of the stringers rather than the outside, which I think would make for a cleaner appearance. Thinking it might have something to do with the rail ballusters, was hoping part 2 would make it clear.
It's for a cleaner look...this particular builder paints the stringer white with exterior semi-gloss. It doesn't have anything to do with the vinyl rail system.
2nd visit, more entertaining than the first!! After it's all said and done it doesn't meet the 12" O/C required for composite (garbage) deck material??
Those stairs are bearing on the deck by what, 1- 1/2"? undersized stringers, PT risers, pre primed wood trim, no screws and plugs. If you're doing trex decking, use all hidden fasteners and PVC trim. Those post sleeves were absolutely not Trex brand. they were cheap PVC Veranda or Fiberon. Trex specs call for no more than 12" OC for stringers. Shouldn't be making these videos and helping homeowners do things wrong.
PopulationParallax All composite decking that I’ve looked at suggests a maximum of 16 inch on center if perpendicular to the joist for residential installations and 12 inch on center for commercial installations (I guess because they expect heavier foot traffic).
why didn't you allow for your backers on your run if you would have worked it out you wouldn't have to cut your backers and also it's easier to install risers first I wondered if you shortened the top of stringer before you installed and also it's easier to notch the centre stringer then your left with some throat to fix rather than cutting it all off there's no structure there.
timcat100 Actually some brands of composite decking will not properly accept a cortex screw and leave a nice round flush hole like let's say a piece of white Azek will. Some decking will mushroom up on the sides of the holes leaving a raised lip that looks terrible and very noticeable. We usually pre drill a pilot hole then drill another hole with another bit matching the size of cortex plug with a collar stop on the bit to accept the plug. We always use the supplied screw bit with the felt collar that comes with the deck screws. When ever there isn't an issue with mushrooming we just let the cortex screw do what's it's designed to do with the supplied fastening bit then plug the hole with a cortex plug.
@@mafongojr164 It's a Trex issue. While 16 is usually good, Trex will void your warranty unless you do 12". I guess they need to pay their lawyers . . .
This video is great for basics, but before you start a project like this, look for newer videos and familiarize yourself with updated codes for stairs. Lots of things going on in this video that just won't fly these days.
@@murphythemenace3307 the plan for my stairs! The 45 triangle end just seems like more work and not enough support so the boarder will bee a cleaner option for me.
hate to break it to ya, but those stringers are non code compliant. pretty sure i wasn't the first person to pick that up. those stringers will deflect and those steps will feel like they're made of plexi-wood from the bouncing. gotta cut 2x12s fellas. otherwise, not bad. i just don't like the sneakers and shorts to a job site.
So much wrong advice given in this video. Never overcut the notches, stringers not made from stout enough material. And yes plumb is used when talking vertical, level when horozontal. Shouldn't do an instructional video with misinformation.
Rise total÷7 = number of risers plus fraction Total rise÷ # risers= rise height (eg. 7.23) .23×16= 4. So 4/16= 1/4 7 1/4 in each riser 18-7 1/4= 11 3/4 tread
Clearly these young guys have some experience to gain before doing more tutorials. The comments below highlight some of the problems. As for the quality of the video, again more experience is needed. One criticism I have is the excessive emphasis on shooting the speakers face instead of the work. Viewers are here not to see you but rather to see the actual work.
Most builders mount steps 1step down from top, but these young men made several mistakes and took a few shortcuts I wouldn’t recommend. Check out the Critical Connections vids on how to build deck steps properly
These guys are completely wrong and misinformed. Anyone installing stairs like they are, will be called back to fix the sagging. It’s apparent they’re new at this.
I quit watching when you over cut the rise and run!!!! And on all composite I always go 12" on center on stairs and even joists! Otherwise it's sagging in a year when sun hits it!!!
We call these type of track homes frosted covered turds , cheaply built cheap material ,and these young guys need to learn detail ,hence over cutting ,putting frosting on the turd to make it look nice ,in 10-15 years that shit composite and crap cardboard trim and stairs will need to be replaced ,weather will destroy. That cheap material,seen many time s
Plastic lasts a long time, smart trim will also last a long time if painted. This particular install was a little lacking but when done properly they wont have issues
@@bolerdweller ya well install a ton of trex and others and in az where i live the sun and dry air. Destroys it in a few years with 110 118 degree weather has be taken up and replaced with something else depends where ya live
@@rickdougherty8058 it seems to be ok up hear in Canada. I do mostly cedar, personal choice, but the trex does ok here. We get to about 104 degrees Fahrenheit here in the summer but we also have to deal with winter as well. Cedar is a great choice in a lot of areas here if you're ok with maintenance, the heat here bakes the oil out of it so it needs to be protected more to fend off the winters though
@@bolerdweller ya im sure its ok there ya hot but also humidity.. Arizona very high altitude 5000 ft 5 -10 percent humidity at best drys everything to crap. But am from vermont originally so wood and composite s do better there then AZ ..and yes i would prefer ceder also
Project Manager for step construction?? Eyes are the window to the soul and no one should talk to me through sunglasses. Seems like a Project Manager could afford proper working footwear! A coping saw for building stringers??? NICE TRY!!
bad video…. camera man films the worker more then focusing on the project itself...the worker must like to see himself on film... just build the steps we don't care what you look like. Must be why the views are so old.
