I tried using a Zephyr bar to polish my stainless breathers on my truck, after multiple passes and not getting the results I wanted I switched to your black bar for stainless and 1 pass gave a nice shine! Needless to say I trashed the zephyr bar! Thanks for making an awesome product!!
*It's far more important to do a good job with your pre-sanding than getting too deep into a bunch of rouges. Most people actually need 3. Brown for soft metals like brass & copper, black for hard metals, (steel) and white for finishing on both and for light buffing on soft material like wood, plastic, horn, ivory and similar items. The Wheel you use also has more to do with results than the rouge.*
I took the black powder paint of a Gibraltar drum 🥁 clamp with those paint removers from Lowes. The rest of the drum rack is chrome and I want to polish the clamp as close as possible to match everything else. Should I go with black, green and purple?
You shouldn’t do any buffing on chrome. You would need a gentle, hand polish such as the following www.renegadeproductsusa.com/products/rebel-pipe-dream-chrome-conditioner-and-polish?_pos=1&_sid=dea5a0107&_ss=r
He mentioned that the black, brown, green, and white compounds are usually equivalent across brands. The colors are standard for common grits. What differentiates brands, is the quality of the ingredients.
I imagine it’s the same for metal polishing as it is for car paint polishing. In automotive uses, cutting is for removing surface contaminants, or removing more of the clear coat finish if its scratches are obvious. Polishing is a similar but finer process. It removes material too, but it removes it more evenly and conservatively.
There's 2 types of white bars. Ones for cutting n polishing stainless chrome. The other white bar is finer n light used for finishing. I use white lighting bar for cutting n final step
