Concrete anchors 

Every time I have a DIY job to do, I come to your channel and there's a video there waiting for me. This morning I had no idea what an anchor bolt was, now I know how to fix my fence post to concrete. Please keep these videos coming, they're a goldmine of information. Thanks again.

Best video about anchor bolts. I've been looking at several and yours is the only that explains its use and removal. Thank you.

Good idea about using rustproof bolts. I wasn't sure whether the bolt would split the brick as it expanded, so you've put my mind at rest. The timber is 2" thick which is about 50mm, so I'll look for bolts which are around 120mm. Thanks again for your help, much appreciated.

I had a few questions on using these before starting work on a deck frame. All questions answered. Cheers fella!

+varun009 It's a Halfords professional ratchet spanner- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qd2LLH3UNmU.html

A simple and effective way of explaining things thank you

Just the information I needed, well explained and thanks for taking the time to post it

Don't forget to blow out your holes. A lot of times trash can get in the way of driving the bolts to the depth you want and you can't remove them to do it later!

Probably one the best videos on this I've seen. Great job!

Brilliant, thanks. I'm not a handyman, so this is very helpful. Hanging a heavy side gate soon and now I have a good idea how to do it. Thanks 👍

Thanks. It is smart to keep the hole deeper so you can drive the anchor down into the hole later if you want to so it doesn't harm anyone for the rest of its life.

Great video. Excellent tip to drill the depth out more than needed for an easy solution if you want to remove the bolt. Well done. Cheers and thanks.

I find the bolt goes in a tiny bit easier and grips slightly better if dust is blown out of the hole. A short length of flexible tube can be used to blow dust out of the hole before the bolt is inserted. Finally, as shown in the video - there's no need to over tighten these bolts. If you do you risk pulling the bulb-end of the bolt through the jacket - and then the bolt and hole are useless. Thanks for yet another great video!

I enjoyed watching your video also another name of that anchor is sleave anchor I used these all the time because they can hold tons of weight. I used them one time for fastening garage door tracks to concrete walls🤩😎👍

the job itself isn't particularly difficult but it doesn't prevent it from being a great tutorial video! I watch it through and find it very useful and enjoyable( nice and clean, no talking shit). Thanks for sharing with us!

This is a cool video. Good basic info on the anchor bolt (thru-bolt as the English gentleman says) which, in my business (architectural graphics) is the most used and most unseen of hardware. I'll be passing it on.

really simple straight to the point great video!

Nice video, great tip about avoiding possible trips. Thanks.

Thank you very much for the description and example... Rich

Thanks for the video, now I can go back and fix the loose wall my contractor should of fixed. He replaced all the wood in the wall but didn't anchor it to the foundation. Thanks again

+Efstathius Placidas I don't think so, although you can use Rawl bolts etc. which leave a threaded female insert in the hole, which you can then bolt to.

great vid - quality little tip about an extra 1" in the hole, I'm away to use some of these to fit a hanging sign iron bracket to a wall. thanks again!!!!

Well made video and explanation on how to......thanks Ultimate Handyman

Great advice! Not what I came looking for but, Thank You!

Thanks for taking the time to demo this.

Outstanding explanation. Thank you for your time to post this video for us all to learn!

This is exactly what I needed. I am going to secure a costco gazebo to an exposed aggregate concr deck, and hopefully keep it from blowing away. Thanks man.

112 dislikes? Why? Top video and explains to the point and helpful. Thanks for posting.

Useful video. Thank you so much. Now I have a better idea of what I got to do for my home project. Thumb up to you

Hopefully you still monitor these questions! I am trying to mount a ledger board on a cinder block wall, so the anchor bolts will fall into the cavity behind the holes I drilled. Also - the expanding flange doesn't expand. perhaps the cinder block hole is slightly too big or the cinder block material is too easily broken away inside the hole making it too loose?

Thanks Great point about drilling deeper I didn't do that on a wall for bike rack Now they're sticking out

Excellent video. I'm building a timber mono-pitch outbuilding/shed and looking for a suitable fixing to bolt/screw the timber frame walls to the base. Obviously these are around the edges of the concrete base so are close to the edge. My question is - how close is too close - the timber frame is made using 3"x2" (the 3" dimension is the width of the frame) so is this too close for this type of fixing? What would you recommend?

Excellent video, thanks so much.

Thanks for taking the time to post this video, it was a great help.

I use a small length of plastic hose from a washing machine, (flexible), and about twelve to twenty inches long to blow dust from inside the hole...... Any length of tube or pipe..... even a drinking straw will do if necessary.......and it can be rigid, (say a piece of copper pipe).......or flexible. The advantage of a flexible bit of pipe is that you don't always need to be on an exact level with the drilled hole to use it.........so if working on a ladder, or at any height on a wall, for example, you can be slightly above or below the hole, or to one side when you blow..... If you angle the tube or pipe slightly at the surface of the hole and dust inside it will come out much easier than if you are 'dead straight on' to the hole. Most important point to remember is that at THE MOMENT YOU BLOW into the tube or pipe, CLOSE YOUR EYES...... It's only a momentary 'puff' or 'blow'............BUT........any debris or dust in the hole will come out at some speed..... Hence the slight angle of the pipe or tube at the surface of the hole..........it will expel it more easily.......and hence the need to momentarily CLOSE YOUR EYES.... James Hennighan Yorkshire, England P.S. A flexible piece of pipe stores more easily in a tool box or bag........

i was not a viewer in 2011 and you showed me more of what this fastener can do

oh, thanks! if i hadn't seen this, i would've probably tried to eventually remove them by trying to saw them off, which would've taken AGES. well this was straight-forward!

Good video - thanks for sharing 👍

Great video clear instructions

Wow -- fantastic video! Thanks!

Thanks! Got a new season subscriber!

Great video! Thank you

Great video

You my friend, are a life saver!!! Thanks so much!!

Great video, concise and spot on. Thanks for the information.

Did u say u were going to fasten that wood block to some concrete gummy bears?

Perfect. I always thought that the hole had to match the length exactly. That is a great tip.

fasten-ating!!! thanks for your help

Thank´s man, it was very useful. Regards from Colombia

Thanks for sharing your knowledge ... very helpful!!

@Ian Brooks I'd got for resin fixings so close to the edge to be on the safe side ;-)

Thx. Enjoy your videos

hy can these b used to attach wall brackets into brick? I am using a length of unistrut to brace against my back garden gate to make a solid secure retractable bar lock. the unistrut will slide in and out through the bracket.

Yet another video that will come in handy in the near future

Wish Id watched this two hours ago..I made a right bollox of the job.. nuff said.

Very nice video. One suggestion: Use a shop vacuum to remove concrete dust from the hole.

If its in a floor, I *always* drill straight trough. If the anchor gets screwed up (buggered threads, spins in the hole, etc.) you can pound it down and install a new one on top of it. Hitting rebar is always fun:)

thanks mate, i will use this to bolt my safe to the concrete floor in my closet.

I have a 30mm slab. How long should my anchor bolt be? Can I use a wall plug and screw as well as an alternative?

Thanks man that's the one for me to fasten wooden ramps to infront of door ways

hi pal those helicoils worked perfect !!the moped man rides again 😃😃😃😃😃thank youuùuu!!!!

Great tip. Thanks for sharing.

it better to saw it off than tap it down. u see if u planning to tap it down later, then u must drill the hole deep for it to fall thru or fall deeper inside but what you forgot to mention the thickens of the concrete needs to be taken into consideration. if the concrete is 4" thick, and u drill deeper than 4" so you can tap down later, then the wedge part is going to pass the 4" when installing and the wedge may lock under the 4" slab of concrete which you don't want as that wont be strong and defeats the purpose of the wedge anchoring to concrete. Better to drill 3" deep, the wedge locks at 3" deep solid concrete which leaves 1" solid concrete before the concrete ends. later grab a grinder and cut off the excess if you want but al least until that time u are sure the wedge is actually anchored properly on your concrete and not below the concrete.

THANK YOU!! I'm going to try it. 😬 Wish me luck. I need to secure a polycarbonate sheet over a basement window that's broken. Hoping this works.

Thanks for this video.

Thanks for the reply - will look further into it - good stuff!

Do they make a bolt that could be unscrewed in half essentially, leaving nothing sticking up above the surface of concrete? Then when you use it again, you just screw on the other half... Something that would connect kind of like the pieces of a gun cleaning rod.

Thank you sir! Much appreciated

Perfect, just what I needed to know, thanks a lot!

Thank u.. Iam working as store keeper and I had benefit out of this

Thanks for the quick respond.

Please, can I hear you yell, "THIS! IS! SPARTA!!!"

I'm just revisiting this video for my next diy job :) Would these kind of bolts be appropriate to attach a 2.4m piece of 2x4" wood vertically to the side of my house? I need to attach a new gate to the side of the house and want a vertical to hang it from. Also what diameter bolt would I need? would 6mm be strong enough, it's a fairly heavy wooden gate. Or would I be better off using masonary screws or some other fixing? Thanks

Thanks for the video. When you say they shouldn't be used near the edges of concrete, in case of cracks ; do you think I'm safe to use it about 50mm from the edge? I'm thinking about anchoring a wooden beam to a concrete strip foundation 100 ish mm wide (width of a brick) by drilling and bolting into the middle of the concrete strip, hence , "50mm ish from edge".

Hi, I've used a 8mm x 85mm though bolt, similar to the one on the video. I drilled a 8mm hole with a 8mm drill bit, and hammer the bolt in (it was quite hard to push it in), but when tightening the bolt, it seems that it doesn't tight really hard. it seems that tightening torgue increased to some limit , and then stays the same. I have a feeling that if I continue tightening the bolt will continue to move out gradually until it is fully removed. Is that expected?

Can you help out with my question? I'm attaching 3x3 wooden posts to side of house to hang reasonably heavy gates from. How deep do I need to get the bolts /screws into the wall? Obviously 3x3 is 75mm thick so a 100mm hex bolt will only be in wall by bout 30mm even if I counter sink whole on post first, I can't imagine 30mm being enough. Can't find any bolts longer than 100mm. So I'm thinking 150mm Easy drive concrete screws from screwfix will be good.

Good video great tip thanks again

Good video...but. when clearing the mound of dust after drilling the hole, use a vacuum instead of a dust pan. Use the vac to clear the mound of dust, then position the vac hose over the drilled hole to clear debris from the hole for a better, more secure fit for the bolt.

That is why I personally prefer shield anchor bolts. The bolt is removed if you decide to remove something, so no bolt left sticking out of the ground to leave a trip hazard. I just used some shield anchor bolts to put up a door canopy that I made for a customer. So if they do ever move they can take it with them and no ugly bolts sticking out of the wall.

I need to fix several 75 x 75 x 1800 fence posts to a single brick width wall so I can extend fence panelling above the wall. Would concrete anchors be too much or would 150 masonry screws do the job? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Is it possible to embed the anchor bolt into wet cement? That way you will not need to drill into concrete. Will the end bit still expand if it has concrete surrounding it?

Great tutorial!! I'm planning to add some joists above the ceiling rafters in the loft to make a storage room, would you recommend these for attaching a wallplate to a stone wall? Thanks

Wonderful! Thank you sooo much you video very very helpfull... 😊☕

amazing video

Thanks man. Good info

Excelente video 👍

Looks good thanks for the video.

Could I use these in sandstone or is there something more suitable? It's to fix bolt down brackets for fence posts on a low wall.

I am a bit on the thick side,do you mean place frame on top of sill,and drill straight through both,if so they would be hard to stop moving.

Excelente y gracias por el consejo.

Great videos

"UH", thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I love them! Can you use this same technique in a vertical stone wall? I want to fix something to my limestone house.

Is it the same procedure if I was to put shelves onto a concrete wall in my garage?

Just bought from Bolton BandQ packs of M10 I was trying to find some with strength specifications as this one suitable for stair case going off picture on the "diall" pack but other m10s have picture of heavy gate.. hopefully a video of strength tests might be produced sometime.. just wondered what you thought. Thx for video. 👍

Excellent, very helpful!!

How would you go about fixing a ledger board? Do you think I'd need to drill all the holes out first (6 metres in total) or could I go along drilling and fixing as I go....any thoughts appreciated

Great video, thanks for info and tips. I want to use a couple of these to affix a timber post (for hanging a gate off) to the end of a breeze block wall. How far from the end of the wall do you think I'd be safe fitting these (to avoid cracking the breeze blocks)?

thanks. is their a anchor bolt in stainless steel? i might use it outside or in damp places.

Good video

Great, but where was the stage of checking what was under the concrete that you mentioned?