I built 2 homes and had the mason state the degree of level and square that needed to be achieved in his proposal. I had seen the results of bad foundations on some of the tract homes I had worked on and didn’t want to start my home on the wrong foot. Your fix was a great suggestion.
I finised ICF wall out a little because of plasticizers and rocks staying on top so not smooth, yes I'll use your tip it's the perfect solution, thanks for the video.
Great trip on this technique. I've always wondered about this but have never seen or heard anyone do it, at least not professionally. Everyone talks about bonding agents these days. I wonder if this method will work for concrete floor leveling or resurfacing.
Great tip! Quickrite sand mix topping has a 5000 psi compression rating. Do you see any reason that couldn't be used instead of the 50/50 mixture you mentioned?
It's all about aggregate SIZE. The PCA states that the MAXIMUM size of aggregate must not exceed 1/3rd the thickness of the slab/overlay. So, if you're going to pour a 1.5-inch overlay and it's the same thickness across the foundation, then your largest stone in the mix can't exceed 1/2 inch. Rhetorical question: What is the THICKNESS of your overlay? You can get many many more detailed tips about overlays at my www.AsktheBuilder.com website. Type: concrete overlay into the search engine.
Great idea if the carpenters are multi-talented. This crew couldn't speak a word of English. That's not to say they couldn't do it. The fault lies at the foot of the BUILDER. He should have checked the foundation forms for the chalk line and finish nails.
You mix equal parts of sand and Portland cement. Blend until mixed and a uniform color. Add water. Mix until the consistency of firm applesauce. If you need phone coaching, I offer it: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
I’ve got a tangent question. I have a concrete block foundation that is not to height. Do you see any reason why I just can’t attach the plywood to height and correct it when filling (grouting) the cores with concrete? Thanks for the tip!
Do it. Go to my www.AsktheBuilder.com website and READ my past column about concrete block vs poured concrete foundations. There you'll discover the CORRECT way to reinforce the wall using pencil rods and...
I agree. I discussed this in one of my syndicated newspaper columns that was spawned by this video. As for naming the offenders, I'll pass. I'm not about to risk a libel lawsuit. The point of the video is that buyers and homeowners need to take a more active roll in their jobs, especially at critical times as shown in this video.
I use the type that comes in 94-pound paper sacks. You should REALLY go to www.AsktheBuilder.com and READ all my past columns about Concrete Overlays so you discover the SECRET INGREDIENT!!!!
Tim- There is NO "Thanks" button anymore... It was there a couple of weeks ago, when you first did references to the Thanks-function, but it is GONE now... Pete C., in NH
@@askthebuilder Tim- For certain there is NO ❤️$-Thank You (TY) function on my device, and probably not a lot of other people's if they also, as I have NO linked credit/debit card to the internet account. U-Toob gave the misleading info, originally, that EVERYbody would have a ❤️$-TY "button", but that is true ONLY if a credit/debit card is linked.... Hence, U-Toob has now REMOVED the ❤️$-TY button for accounts with NO credit/debit card... Pete C., In NH.
@@askthebuilder What I came to realize many weeks ago is that you have to be signed into RU-vid for the Thanks button to appear. If you view things without being signed in, it is absent.
@@askthebuilder Actually, I’m pretty sure you “implied” that, not “inferred” that. BTW, an actual bonding agent (glue) is designed to adhere new cement to (what is now) old cement. Available at Home Depot, Lowes and most material houses.
@@seanm3226 My guess is you've never finished concrete and not perfectly cleaned your tools. Then you'd become an evangelist about how well cement paste *STICKS* to things. What's more, what do you think the old concrete mason used 70-80 years ago to bond cement stucco to freshly poured exterior steps? They didn't have bonding agents. It's really important for you to keep an open mind realizing that there are old methods that are in many case much better than what is in use today. It's very common for great methods and products to transition from history, to legend, to myth. That's what's happened to cement paint. It's mythical and I'm doing my best to make it historic. You should try it.
@@askthebuilder the way you said is probably easier and faster. I’d cut it only if it was my own house because I like the one solid pour is stronger, but for someone else’s house or job I’d do what you said. Idk what they were smoking when they put those shims in there and thought it looked good omg
Very likely. You can't assume the wall sheathing makes perfect contact with the sill plates. And even with an air barrier, there could be leakage in the gap between the two plates.
Sure you can grind it. The issue is what is the most economical and practical way to repair it and not compromise strength. The way I showed in the video is the answer. Period. Can you imagine how long it would take you to grind down that length of wall? Holy cow....!
This isn't actually the correct advice because you shouldn't have a cold joint anywhere in your foundation unless the new pour is tied into the existing foundation with rebar and epoxy.
I beg to differ in this case. This cold joint is above the grade line. There is no tension force whatsoever on this cold joint. It's 100 percent compression. Please defend your claim.
