@@Fighter_Builder imo if you have 120w heatbed remove connector and directly solder wires to pcb or in case of over it i would recommend using external relay and xt60 connectors they are rated for 60a.
Those screw-contact "PCB" connectors are not much trustworthy beyond 2A or so. They can handle greater current but they will soon fail due to contact resistance heating. Power (heating) increases with the square of current passing through the contact resistance.
@@inlasttonowhere4459 The NEC won't let you run a coax cable through a doorway in your home, but is happily unconcerned when your power company pulls and leaves your neighbors' power line 10 feet above your lawn
You should add a note that for all the connectors there should be no copper wire visible. You're only leaving the wire exposed for your testing jigs so you can clip on leads.
Agree. I know it was done on purpose, but if this is a how-to, I would suggest re-editing or re-uploading every part that showed the bare wire after the connector. Especially the ferrules!
omg! i'm with you!!! This is REALLY REALLY Imprtant! ich habe solche Aderendhülsen leider als Elektriker zu oft gesehen... und dann auch noch in 230 bis 400V Abzweigdosen :((( SCOTT!!! BITTE UNBEDINGT DEN HINWEIS DAZU!!!!!
Designing real world devices, the cost of connectors can easily eclipse the cost of processors and all the really important parts. In my experience the best connections are the ones that dont require hand work. We ended up using pre moulded m12 cables for everything because they are robust and didn't require assembly.
Some economy idiot decided to save 5 bucks on some Relais The Relais required 15 mm long crimping thingies idk how to write them In English We had a machine to do the 10 mm long 1.5mm2 So we sat there probably a few weeks making cables...
It depends. I have seen many pieces of serious/expensive equipment where outside conditions made a connected connector unusable after a few years. In some situations the choice of connector protects the equipment during it's use. Sure, there are situations where choice of connector is not important, so you go for most affordable connector that is easy to use, but in some cases it makes a huge difference.
Funny, I just inspected and checked terminal tightness on my household mains panel earlier today. It's a good practice to do once a year if you know what you are doing, of course. I found a sparking/crackling connection to a 30 Amp circuit breaker at work the other day and tightened it up. Luckily, I caught it before anything worse happened.
Seeing this reminded me of the stuff that I saw at my (previous) workplace. I was employed there as an electronics/electrical maintenance technician (don't know if that's the correct term) Some idiot that had worked there before me was connecting CFL lights and while wiring it he didn't pull it through the distribution box and connect it to a breaker. NO SIR. He just stripped the wires and pushed them directly into the 230V mains sockets on the box. When I saw that, I thought: Well, there's something every self respecting electrician would kill you for. And it's not like I knew a lot about mains wiring at the time either. I was like 3 weeks into the job with no experience in the field.
Same here. I test the RCD monthly and borrow the company torque screwdriver and torque each breaker annually. The inspector laughed at me when I said the RCD actually gets tested 🤣
@@zanpekosak2383 You are the most dedicated person I know. Hell, I don't even know how to open the panel so I can tighten the screws (Granted I shouldn't really be doing it, but someday after I get licensed to work on that stuff, you bet I'm gonna start doing it)
@@gamefan6142 I wouldnt really care much about it, but electrical is still more of a passion than a job to me. I am fairly certain that will change one day though 😆
It would be really interesting to see the same test done that measures resistance of common modular connectors (molex, xt60, etc) as well as the same connector types of varying quality.
molex makes a huge variety of connectors and are widespread in the US. they work well enough but usually not my first choice any more. I like Anderson power poles for high power applications
"Butt connectors" are so called because of the way the connection or _joint_ is formed-- the 2 wires "butt up" against each other. Not sure if it carried over from woodworking ("butt joint"), but the idea is the same. I like to use IDC or Ethernet for lots of data lines.
When I discovered them, I tossed all my wire nuts in the trash where they belong. The countless number of times I had to retighten a nut is aggravating. I've never had that problem with Wagos.
@@Rudofaux Same, here in France we don't have wire nuts, but in the past screw terminals were our standard. Never again used screw terminals since i discovered Wagos. No more retightening, and as an added bonus much time saving and much more practical to install.
It's great to see the soldering connection winning out. I'm getting tired of people saying that soldered connections have resistance! It is fused metal after all, and the surface contact area is much bigger ( even if solder has a higher resistance than copper)
He should have done a Western Union twist anyway before soldering. I never just solder two parallel wires. We're always getting into it with guys who insist crimps are superior to solder in every application because of vibration. NOT.
Screw terminals and "when are you ever going to run 10 amps through them?" Almost all 3d printers run screw terminals for their main power input to the control board, and most also run them on the heater outputs, both the hot end which is relatively low current, as well as the heat bed output. Many printer heat beds will run 300-400 watts. Even at 24v that is a good few amps, but the older printers running 12v have burned boards and started fires. Mine is switched now from being a high current 24v bed to a mains powered and SSR switched bed, but that's taking a few extra steps beyond just using heavy terminal blocks on external switching, as well as bootlace ferrules.
YEP! Thats why I replaced my Hotend/Heatbed connectors with a MOSFET board that has some beefier connectors. All you run through the stock screw terminal then is the signal for the MOSFET :D
Completely agree. Another example: I play a lot with LED strips, and prefer the 5V varieties because individually addressable RGBWW LED strips only come in 5V. I can easily push 15A through the power lines (which I usually use 1.5mm or even 2.5mm twin and earth to power, for that reason!)
Great video. I 'discovered' ferrules about 8 years ago and pushed hard for my guys to use them. When inside a large panel/cabinet, hanging upside down, trying to stuff a stranded wire into any sort of screw/spring terminal is nuts. Crimp a proper ferrule on it and it's a piece of cake.
I just discovered ferrules today. I was having so much trouble with my USB screw terminals using stand wire and now hopefully won't have any more problems with the crimping and ferrule kit on the way!
It is not only handy, but safer and gives longer MTBF. Of course one can live out of making such timed-faults ;-) Small quiz: what is the colour of stranded copper wire after 5 years in an outdoor cabinet?
Yeah i know what you mean, an electrician recommend them to me years ago for wiring heating systems, which often leads to multiple, stranded cables all in the same terminal. Good advice but luckily, since then, there's better, larger boxes with semi-pre wired terminals.
Did I always do my crimp connectors wrong? I thoght the bit of plastic/isolation on every connector is supposed to cover all the copper wires, so you cant touch them direclty when they are inserted.
What others have said. It's an oversight in the video. You're doing things correctly.
2 года назад
I'd like to point the importance of choosing the correct crimping profile when it comes to cable ferrules - there are two common profiles: square and hexagonal. There are also two types of PCB screw terminals - with a square hole and with a round (or a semi-round) hole. So, the square profile is intended for square screw terminals and the hexagonal profile is better for round terminals. Also, it would be great to include the XT connectors in the comparison (XT60 and XT90), which are becoming pretty common in hobby projects (like RC models, 3D printers, etc.)
aren't XT60/XT90 good anyways since they are made for drawing 60/90 amps each? So they are a good connetion as long as you bought good quality ones and you solder them in right.
Huh, I didn't know about crimping profiles. One degree and over a decade in the field, and there's still more to learn about the basics! PS: For anyone new, that's not a bad thing, and is half the reason I wrote this. There's always more to learn.
Thanks for the heads up, I was also wondering what's so better about the hexagonal crimping tools I saw when I bought my square one, my thinking was that the square crimped joint has better surface area on the terminal I was using (in fact, a square terminal as you mention and he shows on video). Might grab for work an hexagonal tool too, there it's more likely to use higher current terminals that I've seen in round form. I'm also curious for the X60 ones, those are certified for some serious amps (I think it's straight up it's name right?), I use one for my print bed indeed. Tho that's bellow 15A.
You should try using good quality screw terminals. There are two types of therminals, the ones you use are the shitty ones. In those a screw pushes a metal sheet onto the wire. In the good ones, the screw pulls up a kind of metal 'elevator' that squishes the cable. Imagin a very big cable entering the door of a regular elevator and then the elevator goes up until it crushes the cable with the door frame and it can't go higher. I call them the "gillotine " type. I am pretty sure you'd get a VERY different result with those!
The first ones (the ones Scott uses) are the "leaf spring" screw terminals, the other ones are called "cage clamp" screw terminals. And I agree, the leaf spring are absolute garbage, not only they have high resistance, they also cannot bear any mechanical stress whatsoever.
The PCB screw result is actually quite alarming because my 3D printer and many 3D printer mother board use them as input. The current requirement easily exceed 10A with heating elements and motor attached.
Besides cooling the drivers, the fan in the control box should remove some of the heat from these connectors. I still added ferrules to my printer because bare stranded or tinned wires are dangerous anyway.
I absolutely agree. Just a few weeks ago I wondered why the Filament suddenly smellt so bad while printing. Until i found the problem, the screw terminal housing was completely melted.
If you're going to join wires with solder (which is a great idea), at least twist them together before you do. Better still, use a linesman splice (also called a Western Union splice). Some wiring regulations require mechanical connection between wires and solder alone will not pass inspection.
@@jaymzx0 Wire splices hold things in place. The solder just ensures electrical and heat conductivity remains high, and corrosion between the spliced wires, low. Electrical conductivity of a spliced wire and solder join is excellent, but mostly because you have a large surface area of contact between the two joined wires.
I learned how to solder when I was about 11-12 years old I still have my Weller 8200 soldering gun to this date. It's had a new case, replaced the cord a few times, but keeps on going. Early on I learned about cleaning the conductors, and making a strong mechanical splice whether butt splice, pig tail in both solid and stranded wire. Apply heat to the work, let it get hot enough to "melt the solder, and flow into the joint"
Solder is like thermal paste. Not a good conductor, just a lot better than letting an air gap form. And a weak glue that is strong enough for unstressed connections.
I've recently found that "fork" connectors work well. They are just like the cable shoes, but instead of having a full circle, they have straight "forks". This means that they can be screwed in with the same contact resistance as a cable shoe, but they can also be inserted in the side of a screw that's already in its hole. It helps to keep the screws in place!
They're so freakin' practical. I've added them to all the screw terminals on my 3D printer (the power supply takes most of those), bought some ferrules too for the other type screw terminals (yeah, confusing I know: the former is the one where you can insert a fork terminal, the screw goes through the place where the wire goes too, the other one you use ferrules on, is what Scott showed on the video). They're specially easy to work with when you have to do some maintenance and remove cables and such, dealing with the bare wire is annoying.
I work in low voltage controls. (HVAV, security, etc). A sign of great work is what he is talking about. It takes a little extra time, but you avoid intermittent issues and it makes reusing existing wire a snap when it is time to do repairs or upgrades. Wagos are the best. Also are handy when you cannot turn off power. (Of course you never do that right) put the wago on the hot wire and now it can't accidentally touch something it shouldn't letting you hook up/disconnect your equipment much more safetly.
As an electrician we always used stranded wire with ferrules when hooking up motors and magnetic starters. The solid core would vibrate loose over time from the motor vibrations or just the frequency of the mains power. But the stranded wire with a ferrule due to the flexible nature of the wire wouldn't carry the vibrations and hold the connection
Great Video. Another connector type that I sometimes use when higher current might be possible are the XT60 and XT90 connectors, but those are overkill for most projects and you will pay a premium for them, at least if you get the real ones (which are probably the only ones you should get)
That's why you go for the XT30 instead. They're much more manageable in size, don't take 10 tons of force to separate, and you can get them in packs. My favorite connector, hands down.
@@SianaGearz a key difference is connector stability too. A cheap and presumably fake powerpole is absolutely a fire risk. It depends on the construction of the plastic housing to keep the connection intact and stable. An XT is essentially a bullet connector in a keyed housing. You could remove the entire housing and the connection would still function as designed. Thus a cheap XT... is not nearly as risky a proposition providing the connection internally is sound. Though I'd still go legit only.
You've always got the most wonderful tools. That knipex set is 800 usd. I love the knipex tools I own but have to draw the line at those models. You lucky dog.
Well this whole video is a sponsorship. I like knipex it's a great brand and I guess it's good to show some connections but he's simply whoring himself out for money and really nice tools. Too bad. This may be the end of my great Scott watching videos. I'm tired of all the shills on here.
@@etherealrose2139 Heck, I'd jump on the chance to make a video about my knipex tools if I were paid 1 to 3000 or even Raid Shadow Legends; they pay nicely. You can't blame a person for being obligated to a company for assistance in feeding his family. Remember - you're not a shill until you cash the check. (jk)
Dissenting opinion here... it depends on your needs. For tools that make me money I absolutely will spend cash. For hobbies, I'll save up for certain things that I want or need. 800 is a lot of money, but I know people that will spend more than that on a fishing pole or car tires. I don't crimp a ton of connectors. I don't need it. But I have other knipex (and other good brand) tools and treasure them. Also everyone bitching about shilling when youtube really doesn't payout crap anymore. Most people don't the time/money to pop out high quality videos. If you are going to get a sponsor, get one that does good products. I can't think of a better company to sponsor a channel like this than Knipex or JLC. Period.
The soldered connection is often the worst for long term applications. I have had so many occasions when the wire breaks off at the place where solder ends. This is the biggest issue with multi-strand wires and always have to use connectors in vibration environments like automotive. Also don't solder the wires in the crimpable connectors. Same problem with wires breaking off
Great work, but I'd like to see you have a baseline with bare wires in the screw terminals, so I have an idea what I'm missing by doing it the ghetto way. And by the way, this video convinced me to finally get some crimping pliers and ferrules.
3:57 Solder is also not recommended because the leftover flux makes it oxidize exponentially faster as it reacts with the oxide and flakes it away. It also introduces a new metal really far back from the low end of the standard potential table which also increases the speed of corrosion
Flux can be cleaned off with alcohol or white spirit and the usual rosin flux is barely corrosive anyways. Tinning wire strands is totally fine on a screw terminal with not much strain on it and low amperage. No need to look at periodic tables. Low current -> use solder, High current -> crimp. Simple as. No need to look at periodic tables. Frankly, this video is just a German wondering how to make life more complicated, and as such is not very suprising.
@@westelaudio943 That all is mostly untrue. On a PCB where the surface is smooth and watertight, where flux can't remain in cavities, it does work. But in the case of large conductors and stranded wires what you can end up with is cavities where the flux gets stuck between the strands, gets wicked up into the wire under the insulation (you may have experienced wires stiffening under the insulation, even when solder doesn't go up that far, that is because of solidified flux) and then you run into the issue of what the flux is made of. You have rosin core, acid core, ammonia salt based, really a bunch of them and they might not be alcohol soluble (such as the latter two). About tinning wires. Are you talking about tin or solder? Because tinning does work to prevent corrosion. Soldering makes it worse. You, my guy, are confidently incorrect and hope you don't ever design a product.
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 I meant cleaning the surface that goes into the connector. Of course rosin gets sucked up the wire, but you totally ignore that's also what happens when you solder the stranded wire directly onto something, which I've seen so many times in commercial products I've lost count, some made before Boe Jiden entered politics (and that's a long time!) and as of yet, none of those connection has gone thermonuclear in my face because the wires were rotten inside. I've seen Russian electronics where rosin was left on the bare copper PCB, and none of the traces were corroded, like, at all. Old Russian electronics are actually cherished for their reliability. Maybe cool it a bit with the paranoia. You're repairing an old radio or designing an LED flasher, not a nuclear reactor. Have fun!
@@westelaudio943 You don't consider that the placement of a wire connection greatly effects the lifetime of a connection. The plastic insulation can let oxygen or water through. If you were to solder rubber insulated or cross-linked PE insulated cable, I would not care at all. Those are fine with oxygen and moisture, but PVC and Neoprene let a lot more through, making it an issue. I have seen so many solder joints rotten to shit that I lost count. You might have been just lucky! There is a very good reason I cannot leave a single solder joint in house wiring in my day job.
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 I do not ignore that. I've already pointed out situations where tinning (or soldering, whatever) the strands is not acceptable - like when dealing with high current or strain. I'm sure there are others as well. I've never said this technique is the right thing to do in every application. But in "comsumer grade" domestic electronics or simple DIY projects, which this channel is mostly about, you can very often get away with it. Even with normal PVC wiring, you see it done all the time. My problem is not pointing out the issues with such a connection; it's that Scott just plainly stated it's a "no-go" which simply isn't true.
Please do the same experiment on XT60 and XT90 connectors. Maybe get some "original" ones and some cheapo ones from Aliexpress for comparison. They're designed for high currents and I used some in my Ebike build recently and was curious to see if they perform adequately enough. Seeing how you seem to like EVs as well, you likely encountered them and would make a good experiment. Cheers.
For 3D printers I’ve found the screw terminals used for main power and the heat bed are usually the right size to replace with an XT60 connector soldered directly to the board. I started doing that after a fire with my first printer (lucky I was sitting next to it at the time….)
2 года назад
I offboarded my bed heater MOSFET using XT60 .... Kind of regret it though, the cables are really unwieldy....
Also ich arbeite in der Schaltschrankindustrie und wir benutzen hauptsächlich Federspannklemmen von Phoenix Contact. Ehr selten benutzen wir etwas anders. Bei der Einspeisung verschraubt die Leitungen mit Drehmoment. Löten etc. kommt gar nicht zum Einsatz.
Solder has a much lower conductivity than copper. I think Scott knows it, but viewers might not, so make sure, when you solder anything together, that there is bare contact between the two pieces of wire or anything you're soldering and you're not just bridging the gap between them with solder. In low current applications the bridging is fine, but in high current applications, that can lead to a bad or dangerous result
Someone suggested he did this for his 'test setup' so he could connect his meter leads right behind the ferrule / connectors. I can excuse him for that, but otherwise you're absolutely right, the insulation should be up inside the ferrule's insulation.
@@mikefochtman7164 If you're going to demonstrate a tool, especially if you're being sponsored by the toolmaker, you should show it being used properly, and if you're going to use it incorrectly for your own reasons, you should explain what you're doing, and how it should be used. I wonder if Knipex ever sponsored GreatScott! again after this.
Sir can you add MOSFET based active full bridge rectifier to your to do list....? I heard that it offers very low voltage drop compared to traditional rectifier circuits.... By the way informative video, thanks for that.... :-)
I have been using these kind of butt connector that has low melt temp solder inside of a shrink wrap tube. When you use a heat gun it melts the solder and shrinks the tube at the same time. They are kinda pricy but they work great for fiddly stuff that is difficult to solder.
I'm just looking for a good wire and connector for a moduled PSU . I'm planning to make my own moduled wire to make my computer setup more tidy,however,it seems different wire gage and connector type really do something to the power performance?
The way the gauge affects the terminal is only in regard to the voltage drop across the wire, which increases with more current draw. Hence, a bigger conductor has less drop. This is an issue with REALLY thin wires. the 28-22 AWG wire in PSU's is generally sufficient. Silicone wire sheething (outside plastic) feels nicer, and is more flexible. The xx/xx numbers on stranded (AWG) wire are a combination of the individual strand gauge, and the count. For your connectors, you'll have to the standard Molex MiniFit Jr that almost all pc parts have.
@@AnnaVannieuwenhuyseThanks , however, based on my current knowledge,there are several types of connectors(for cpu 8 pins ,PCIe 8pins and MB 24pins),the long one,short one and one with glod layer. There seems lits to do to make a high quality and durable moduled cable!
9:41 werden die Hülsen nicht eigentlich ganz bis zum Ende geschoben, so das der breitere Teil bis über die Isolierung reicht und so mechanisch eine geringere Beanspruchung auf dem Kabel hat und eine voll isoliertes Kabel? Und aufjedefall sehr interessantes Video👍
That is very interesting, in 3D printing, some companies like creality use to tin the tip of stranded wires that then go in screw terminals, that's used for the bed and hotend heaters, therefore high power. It's not uncommon to hear complains from people of melted screw terminals. With what you found out, it would be better to replace the screw terminals altogether, as when heating up, bed and hotend can draw over 10A. Did you test the screw terminals with stranded wires or with ferrules?
That was no doubt a cost-cutting measure considering the market segment Creality occupies, presumably to aid in assembly without stray wires shorting out against other terminals. Crimp ferrules are cheap and are the right way to do it. I recently rewired my Prusa knockoff printer bought 5 years ago with ferrules and Wago terminal blocks. Even with the 200mm 12V heated bed at 90c, the connectors are as cool as a cucumber. When I first got the thing, the cheap knockoff 'Phoenix' connector that plugged into the RAMPS board melted and almost caught fire during a print. I replaced it with a legit Phoenix connector and it was fine until I replaced the board a few years later. So, beware of knockoffs!
Can confirm, I have an Ender 3 Pro and am planning to replace those terminals with Wago connectors instead... Never realized how awful those PCB screw terminals are and I'm very glad I learned from a RU-vid video rather than personal experience.
Wow, sponsored by Knipex! They are my favourite handtools, but I don't by them that often anymore, since they last me practically forever, my oldest one is nearly 40 years old.
Although soldering makes great electrical connections, it might not be the best solution in environments with lots of movement (near motors or inside vehicles). Stranded wire tends to break at the transisition between solid (soldered) and flexible parts of the wire. In these environments it's better to use terminals. When you do solder, always use heat shrink tubing that extends well beyond the soldered part, to stabilize the connection.
Please help make a force feed back sim steering wheel with an Arduino (nano if possible) I don't have the budget to get a fancy one and don't enough enough to design one myself.
tittle advice, change the title to "Which connector is the best? let's find out" because people know connectors are important and it's stated again in the intro and the first part of the video, I didn't know this video was as interesting until it played automatically after another one.
Soldering wires together has one disadvantage you didn't mention: durability. Crimp terminals and ferrules tend to hold up a bit better against vibration, and often include strain relief. Solder prevents any bending of the wires, it leads to a stress concentration, and soldered wires are more likely to break than crimps.
In Australia for power circuits it is not permitted to put a soldered wire or soldered connection into screw terminal. The reason is that over time the solder will flow very slightly, but enough to increase contact resistance and form a hot joint.
Also unterm Strich finde das Video absolut gelungen. Aber meiner Meinung nach hast du ein par wichtige Dinge ausgelassen, die durchaus gefährlich sein können. Zb sollte bei keiner Verbindung ein Teil vom blanken leiter außerhalb der Klemmung sichtbar sein. Hat man ein par Mal gesehen, beim aufstecken der Aderendehülse. Außerdem darf ebenfalls kein Stück der Leitenden Teils eines Verbinders, also zb der Metallteil einer Aderendhülse, aus der Verbindung raus schauen. Dafür ist eben der Kundtstoffkragen dran um die Isolierung mit einzuführen, und Berührungssicherheit zu gewährleisten. Genauso ist das Verdrillen der feindrähte, bevor man eine Aderendhülse aufcrimpt nicht zulässig, da so keine Gasdichte Verbindung gewährleistet werden kann. Eine Aderendhülso sollte auch immer bis zur vorderkante komplett mit dem Leiter ausgefüllt sein, ohne vorne eine frei Stelle zu haben. Wichtig ist auch zu betonen, dass die Längen, die abzuisolieren sind, bei jedem Bauteil abweichen. Es gibt Aderendgülsen in dieversen Längen, Wagoklemmen haben meistens 11mm aber ähnliche Fabrikate anderer Hersteller vielleicht andere. Genauso bei Schraub- und Steckverbingungen, kann das sehr stark abweichen. Leiterenden von Feindrähtigen Leitern dürfen zb auch nicht mehr verzinnt werden, un sie irgendwo in eine Schraubverbindung zb einzubringen. Das ist also nicht mehr zulässig in Deutschland, und das hat auch seinen Grund... Ich denke gerade der Teil der Berührungssicherheit ist für die Zuschauer deiner Videos auf jeden Fall noch wichtig. Ansonsten danke für das interessante Video, und Viele Grüße aus Köln
I always prefer termination with Lugs crimp and solder them . It is very reliable in all weather,indoor or outdoor . But it takes time. I had applied this method on 400 KV/ 220 KV transformer control wiring and it is working very fine since last 10 years in extreme weather condition
Never used ferrules before -- they required carrying large stocks of different sized connectors and yet another hard to find expensive crimper. Often used "cable shoes" but never called them that -- always called push-on connectors in my world. Often used Molex connectors and can vouch for their poor current handling capacity. Was once employed by a computer company that used Molex connectors in their 1970s vintage airline reservation computers. Half my job on customer sites was just reseating those connectors or replacing whole power supplies whose connectors had browned or become brittle due to the heat given off by them.
Great Scott!! Great video! Please make a video about the US method of making residential electrical connections!? I.E., twisting solid gauge wire strands tightly together with electrician's pliers, then capping with a wire nut. Anywhere from 2-6 wires are commonly twisted together, and any gauge from 14AWG to 10AWG. Would love to see that experiment!
As an electrician myself I appreciate the level of concern about not having a labeled panel or very dated components in your household. We electricians would absolutely be willing to neatly label all panels and do regular updating and maintenance. However we're on the customer's dime, and it is important as a business to provide quality service without breaking the customer's bank. To change a service panel at a house can cost anywhere from 1500-$2500 dollars or more, depending on materials and labor. Is a customer now really going to want to pay extra for neatly labeling their panel? For existing homes we also have to search every circuit in the home to make sure it is correctly labeled in the panel. Ive had customers request that we find where all the circuits go in their home and label their panel, but these customers are typically very well off and have the funds to do this. And now covid has consequently made prices of equipment more expensive. At the end of the day we want people to feel safe in their homes. Im out there making sure im putting my best foot forward for my customers so that we're not risking burning their house down. And I also want to provide a quality service that the customer can afford, and they dont feel like they gotta poor into their life savings to pay.
Nice video! I had this problem a couple months ago. There was a loose connection in my breaker box that caused unstable voltage on some power plugs, a differential breaker and current breaker were shutting down and you could feel some heat on the breaker box. Fortunately we found the problem quickly and didn't end up in something serious like a fire.
I would like to see the test with a stranded wire vs solid wire resistance on a screw terminal. Ferrules are also good for keeping the strands tidy, but probabbly the lowest resistance will be on a recently tightened stranded wire conection. Naturally there are some applications like induction heating that benefits from stranded wire lower overall skin effect. I would also point out that corrosion is a big contact resistance impactor, as well as vibration or movement.
I have a problem with your comparison at the start of your video between the blue perfboard connectors and screw terminals. Pls correct me if I'm wrong, but the perfboard connectors you have are not screw terminals. They have a piece of flat metal that pushes down when you tighten the screw - NOT the bottom of the screw, and in my opinion these are BETTER for stranded wire and not good for single core. (Opposite to what you said.) I completely agree screw terminals are not suitable for stranded wire without ferrules. But the perfboard terminals are different to screw terminals in that way, I think. Also - as your experiment noted, those cheap Chinesium PCB connectors really are rubbish. Do you know of a suitable quality PCB connector? Maybe Phoenix?
Power input on a 3D Printer Mainboard and the Heated Bed on a 3D Printer. Most use PCB screw terminals with 300W+ Power supplies at 24V. And many Chinese manufacturers using stranded wires and some dumber ones soldering the tips of those wires inserted into the screw terminals.
I'm currently working on diy ECU for my car (based on the speeduino project). And the connectors that used in the schematic is hard to find here where i live.. The highest power my components will take is no more than 3A (injectors and fuel pump). Can you suggest a connector that are inexpensive, safe for automotive use and easy to find everywhere?
@@thisjt 3 injectors, 3 ignition coils (low current), 1 fuel pump, 4 terminal TPS sensor. Everything that is used for sensors are low current. only the injectors and fuel pump that are going to suck some power (like 3 amps because 1 paired 2 injectors per channel)
