Contact Strength. What it is and how to train it

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Have you ever experienced your hand opening up when you hit a hold? We all have - this is contact strength.
The rate of force development (RFD) is crucial in climbing as it is determines if we can apply maximal strength quickly. It is all good having strong fingers, but can you apply it quickly?
This episode looks at what it looks like and how to train it, including looking up the chain.
Please visit our website to get more information: www.roapcoachi...
A big thank you to ‪@movementgyms‬ for letting us film in their Rino and Baker locations for this episode!
If you want to know the science behind it all, check out this video from Tyler Nelson: • Video
✅ For Business Inquiries: robin@roapcoaching.com
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✅ About ROAP Coaching.
ROAP Coaching brings Robin O’Leary (RO) and Alex Puccio (AP) together to combine their knowledge so that they can help climbers from around the world achieve their goals, reach their potential, and learn the nuances of climbing, movement, training, and the mind games that make the difference. This channel will share coaching videos and climbing, traveling, and training videos.
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Опубликовано:

26 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 43

@dan_boulders 3 месяца назад

Hi ROAP! I’ve been learning so much from your instructional videos, thank you so much for sharing such high quality content! Could you make a video on pulling with feet on steeper terrain? I don’t think it’s talked about enough and it still eludes me, it would be so eye opening if you could go over it! Thanks 🙏🏼

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Thank you so much and what a great recommendation - we can absolutely do one on that. Have you seen our video on pressure through the feet? (One of the early ones) Could help a lot too.

@normanquednau 3 месяца назад

It is so cool how the principles from martial arts that I learn apply alomst 100% to climbing: in Gong Fu the initial stage of developing power is structure (the ability of the body to be one connected unit, from head to toes). What I noticed in the training section of this cool video ist the application of isometrics: Isomteric holds on the bar with the shoulders, hangs on the fingerboard, etc. Did you know that Bruce Lee applied extensively isometrics in his training? Cheers to you both, mates. My favourite climbing YT channel by far❤

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Ahhh, we love your references to MA! Isometric training is crucial for stability and strength - from here you can learn to "be like water"! ;)

@jennifercasey7821 3 месяца назад

Another timely coaching video! I have been using your warm up routine since you posted it 3 months ago and I don't plan on chainging. I have seen definite improvement and have gone up a step with the resistance band. Can't wait to implement contact strength training as well. Thank you for continuing to put out solid, quality training videos.

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Ahh, great to hear, thank you. That warm-up is one that you genuinely can use forever and it becomes a tool in order to help you perform. This is certainly an addition to that video - as well as obviously climbing to gain the contact strength too!

@VertPerformance 3 месяца назад

Practical, useful, educational, approachable. Thanks for putting this out!

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Thank you Casey! Looking forward to creating content with you soon!

@Megiago 3 месяца назад

This is becoming one of my favorite climbing channels, great content!

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Wow, high praise - we appreciate it. We are always open to ideas too - so if you have any content you want to see, let us know!

@sebastian-ez1dj 3 месяца назад

i wish climbers and coaches would adopt the concepts of muscular irradiation. put short-the more muscles you can contract the more force you can exert.

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

The process of recruitment.

@J_c40rl3y 3 месяца назад

Great video, look forward to trying these exercises out. Thanks

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Excellent, let us know how you get on! Thanks for watching

@FullSpectrumClimbing 3 месяца назад

Good stuff!

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Thank you!!

@GucciFeet 3 месяца назад

For the Tindeq part on RFD can you explain how to read the results i get really weird results like 757kg/s RFD 2080 (R) and 555 RFD 2080 (L) on an uneven 25mm edge. That cant be possible right?

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Yeah, good question as it is slightly confusing. It breaks down essentially the KG or lbs per second, so your reading of 757kg/s shows the output in relation to time. The key, in our opinion, is that you are looking at your total output (overall kg) and the time it took to achieve it. You can ignore the rest! ;)

@edwarddannenberg5084 3 месяца назад

Great video and great execcieses, thank you!

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Excellent, glad you liked it! Thanks for watching too!

@nieziemskim 3 месяца назад

Perfect timing, I recently met with with term 'contact strength' and was wondering what is it and how to train it. Thanks!

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

That IS good timing! ;) Excellent, well I hope you find it useful and good luck with your training. Let us know how you get on!

@TheErno15 3 месяца назад

thnk yo vrymuch, it's a perfect video, and I would like to ask what is the name of the countdown app?

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

It’s the Tindeq Progressor! Such a good app and force plate! Highly recommend

@TheErno15 3 месяца назад

@@roapcoaching917 thnk you very much again:)

@brandonchu6820 3 месяца назад

how would you suggest someone to train contact strength when they have existing wrist problems such as RSI? I see you also have your wrist taped when you climb; is it long running wrist complication, or recent? and how do you get around training without putting extra stress on the affected wrist? As usual, keep up the banger content!

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Great question. Yes, Robin tweaked his wrist on an indoor dyne, so is being careful with some of his sessions. Board climbing can aggravate the wrist due to the shock-loading and dynamic climbing - you are right in that CS training can do the same. If you have a TFCC issue, then firstly, ask your Physio for expert advice. Beyond that, tape and ensure that the exercise is not causing pain during and then also the morning after. IF you are, then it's certainly worth waiting a little. The hangboard exercise and jump/catching exercises could be good alternatives in the meantime as it is all measurable and adjustable. i.e. you can work on a lower RPE - say 6/10 rather than 9 or 10/10. Does that make sense?

@homemsapo 3 месяца назад

If you had a Members area with detailed training protocolls I Would love to support

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Appreciate it. It is certainly something on our radar. Our immediate goal is to consistently put out one video a week as well as share an educational reel on instagram every 2 or 3 days. We also have a very exciting product in development, which will help us achieve this member feature with more success. So, watch this space and we appreciate your support!

@VertPerformance 3 месяца назад

👀

@p3scful 3 месяца назад

Where can i buy the shirt super nice photo i really want it. !!

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Email clothing@roapcoaching.com - it is a ltd edition run of 200 and I believe there are 18 left.

@BroaderGoat 3 месяца назад

Wonderful information and explanations as always! But can we take notice of that sick AP tee Robin is wearing and where can I please buy one ROAP???

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Thank you! Hahaha - email clothing@roapcoacing.com 12 left of a 200 ltd edition run

@BroaderGoat 3 месяца назад

@@roapcoaching917 Sweet!

@BroaderGoat 3 месяца назад

@@roapcoaching917 Sweet!

@briseboy 3 месяца назад

We see the immediate contact strength variation easily, when watching Janja Garnbret and a very few others who have developed this ATTENTIONAL brain skill!

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Absolutely - it is a very trained aspect that firstly builds strength, then contact strength, then accuracy and first time touch! Impressive seeing her do this on World Cup routes! Thanks for sharing and watching!

@lukesutherland6285 3 месяца назад

Love these videos but you don't have to keep saying "no one else is talking about this," or "something I haven't heard much." I find these videos really helpful though

@urabagofcells2228 3 месяца назад

I agree! and what could be interesting is a dedicated video to hear from alex's point of view (and other pro women climbers?) the gap between convos that happen between professional climbers and what convos are happening on youtube! Especially from her unique place as representing both.

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Thanks for the feedback. We only said it as it was true and an important point to make is CS up the chain.

@roapcoaching917 3 месяца назад

Thank for this - this is Alex responding to you. I'd love for you to explain that in a little more detail if that's OK - so I understand it fully. i.e. what professional female athletes discuss in private about training? Thanks for the feedback.

@tommeyer3871 3 месяца назад

I know what you mean, but as long as its honestly true I feel like prefacing a statement with these words holds some values. As in „here comes an interesting NEW bit of information that might take your brain more time to process“