No...Thank You!! This is BY FAR the most informative, knowledgeable, patiently and clearly explained video on fruit tree insect control I've seen! I appreciate your understanding of presenting the organic approach as well as the other routes of control especially cultural control. I've learned so much and will definitely take these steps. Awesome video!
I have to say that this video is the best video when it comes to taking care of your fruit trees. I'm new to this and I planted 10 fruit trees on my property last year. When I was researching how to take care of them all I found was a 3 minute video that didn't explain much and didn't make a lot of sense. Until I found your video. Thank for taking the time to explain everything I need to know, what and why I need to do what I have to do to keep my trees healthy and happy to produce the most and best fruit possible. Thanks again. Jim from charlton ma.
I bought a house with fruit trees that were not taken care of by previous owner. I was so excited to see apples only to find that pretty much all of them have spots (or scab). Should I cut the fruit off the trees and throw them?
In Western Washington we get rain ALL THE TIME! Constantly and Consistently. How do we know when to spray and is there even a protection that works when we have so few breaks in the weather?
Awesome video, hope you continue to put out content. Would love to see a more in-depth discussion on organic controls. Lime, sulfur, lime-sulfur, copper.
Can dormant oil be used all through the spring until it gets too hot. Also have had lots of trouble with stink bugs on fruit. Please give recommendation.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL THE INFORMATION IN THIS VIDEO. NOTES HAVE BEEN TAKEN FOR NEXT YEAR. THIS VIDEO HAS GIVEN ME ALL THE HELP AND ADVICE I NEED TO TAKE CARE OF THIS PROBLEM.
We moved into an older property with gorgeous apple and cherry trees. The cherries are spectacular and we haven't had to do much but ask the crows to share! But, the apples are riddled with scab. Listening to getting ahead next spring sounds like the only solution now. In the meantime, I have questions for anyone who can help: 1) I'm in the PNW, and the rain season is Oct-June, so when do I spray? Apples are still on the tree in Sept and our silver tip season occurs at the same time of our constant rain season. 2) There is a lot of lichen on our tree trunks and boughs. Should I be concerned about this? Many thanks from this newbie!
Thank you so much for your very informative video! We bought a house with 2 apple trees that were already heavily infected with scab. Now we know what to do to get a better harvest and healthier trees next year. :)
Thanks for your video, it was very helpful in understanding Scap disease. Last year I started a backyard fruit orchard and my apple trees was infected with scab. I also had two eight-year-old bradford pear tree that was also infected and I cut down. Thanks agian.
What do you do when live on Vancouver Island and it basically rains all winter and spring? I got scab for the first time last year on my Granny Smith, my pink lady had lots of blossoms then started getting black spots and fruit developed tiny little swells then fell off my tree, my honey crisp was beautiful they are in a row about 15-20 ft apart plus I’m an organic gardener. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. I have bark mulch under my trees so very hard to keep leaf’s away
Hello I didn’t hear you using dormant oil spray. I might have missed it if you did. I live in southwest Michigan and last year had scab on the fruit. Nice information you presented. Thanks Tom
Dormant oil is an insecticide but has shown some efficacy against powdery mildew. I will use it if I’ve had issues with certain insects like spider mites, scale or aphids. Glad the video was helpful
Hello I have 3 apple trees, I want to spray them with bonide mancozeb how much do I mix in a gallon of water? The label sucks! Thanks great video I’ve watched it 3or4 times.
Yea, those labels can be tricky, assuming that your product calls for 4.8 quarts per acre that would be the equivalent of 3/4 of an oz. Per gallon of water.
This is such good and common sense stuff here that I can not add anything other than my own failures. Witch are taking notes cause I forget and being consistant. Also get your self a really decent sprayer so you can get really good coverage. Hit and miss areas just doesnt work very well. I got lazy and did not prune my apple tree last fall. It was just to congested and turned into a massive infestation of several things. Best advise I could give is find a grower like you and beg for a job even if you worked for free.
Not usually, without rain you really shouldn’t get much fungal movement. If we went a long period of time without rain I might spray if we are dealing with very high humidity.
They are comparable in the way that they work and that they are both pretty broad spectrum fungicides that work as protective fungicides, not curative. In a perfect world they should be applied before a rain event occurs to protect your trees from infection. Make sure to read and follow the label directions and follow the days to harvest interval.
I thought I had apple scab last year for the first time on an espalier multi-grafted apple tree, but I just learned about bitter spot, and now I am not sure which I had. There was one variety that didn't have the spots at all. Would bitter spot affect all the fruit? You have explained the fungicide application better than any video I have seen!
@@VeronicaSilva-ek5hl if scab is the problem then your tree should recover next spring. Scab doesn’t typically kill trees but it sure can make them look like they’re dying. Maybe a bit of fertilizer this fall and a spray program starting in the spring. Cultural controls are very important, clean up all the leaves and old fruit before the tree leaves out next spring.
This is my first year at growing apple trees and this tutorial was very helpful. Right now all 3 of my apple trees have cedar rust, I think. I'm having a hard time identifying the type of disease they have. I just hope they make it until next spring when I have the knowledge to care for them. I appreciate your sharing of knowledge, but I did find your video a bit hard to watch. I'm 67, and still at my old slow age. I found your explaining too slow. I sped it up to 150% and then its perfect.
Very helpful and informative, we really appreciated this video! We just planted our first 30 apple trees and needed this help in deciding how to manage our orchard! Best, David and Rachel from CFS!!
My apples are the size of cherries. I just saw this. I just sprayed. I thought my wife sprayed a week ago but apparently read the jacks organic fruit spray instructions wrong and sprayed the soil only cause it said "or soil". Is it too late to save them?
Best video I’ve seen on this subject, and I’ve seen a lot! My mistake has been waiting until petal fall to start my spray program. Thanks for great information.
I don’t think mancozeb is labeled for stone fruits (peaches, plums, nectarines, cherries). But check the label. If it’s not labeled for stone fruits look into products containing chlorothalonil. I believe they are commonly labeled for such. This would include trade names like “daconil” or “fungonil” as a replacement for mancozeb on stone fruits
Great video! I’m curious what your results were with the Thyme-Guard product? I’m preparing to start an organic spray protocol this year and want fungicide that follows suit.
Sure, it’s called an Apple scab mills table which basically tells you how many hours of moisture are necessary under different temps for the scab to spread newa.cornell.edu/index.php?page=revised-mills-table
@@healthyhorticulture So I live near Chicago and we are supposed to get some rain this weekend. Theres still snow on the ground and temps are slowly creeping up but still below freezing at night. Should I be putting on the mancozeb now or wait until the trees start waking up?
Wait until the trees wake up, once the buds start to swell, then start looking at the weather and thinking about spraying. Here in CT it’s usually around mid April.
Thank you so much for the info. brother. I had this problem with my apple trees for a few years. I can't wait for the spring to come so I can take care of my apple trees.
You can use mancozeb after bloom but be aware of the pre harvest interval. On the commercial stuff it’s 77 days between spraying and harvesting. I will sometimes use mancozeb at my petal fall app just after bloom but then I switch over to captan which has a much shorter harvest interval. Spraying copper after bloom can create a russeted fruit. I usually don’t use copper after tight cluster or maybe early pink. Captan or mancozeb, mixed with immunox, will give you much better scab control than copper.
What is the mixing rate of Mancozeb per gallon for apple scab? The product label says 3.5 fl oz / 1000 sq ft. Some people say 1000 sq ft = 1 gallon, is it correct?
I hate when labels are listed that way. It can make things quite confusing. What brand of mancozeb are you using? I can look it up and try to figure it out for you.
I have a bad scab problem as I fallow your advice I would like to start my application early on silver tip, on my fruit trees, my question is do I have to wait for a certain temperature?
I live in what used to be the apple orchard capitol of Connecticut and unfortunately have an old abandoned orchard behind my property, there are still trees producing fruit and I wonder if I'm fighting a war that can't be won with all the spores. I do get some decent fruit but it's an endless battle. Great videos though, easy to follow vs the university pages and many others
That sounds like a fun project, there’s something special about restoring an old orchard. Shoot me an email…healthyhorticulture@gmail.com. Maybe I can swing over and take a look. This orchard was abandoned for several years before I stepped in. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kfShcPc4yng.html
I'm in Michigan and listened to your video's and have a quick question. If last year we had problems with scabs and did the cultural preventative maintenance so far for this year (it's February), do we also spray the fungicide on the ground below the tree, when spraying in the spring?
NO!! Sulphur based fungicides can NOT be mixed with oil based products. It can damage your plants. Wait at least two weeks between any sulphur application and any oil based product.
So, should someone spray a fungicide like the one you have here once every 14 days for apples? I sprayed mine once at Silver Tip and another at green tip. Now they're at tight clusters. No pink seen yet. Should I spray them again? like now. should I spray up until flowers start opening. Then restart once the flower petals fall?
Yes, tight cluster and pink are typically when they are most prone to infection. Once most of the flower petals fall off you probably want to use an insecticide as well as a fungicide. Right at petal fall is when the curculio insect starts to attack the actual fruit. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tNsY807nRyY.html
@@healthyhorticulture awesome. Thank you so much. It's nice getting a little advance from people who have done it a while and know. Thanks. I sprayed again today.
Lime sulphur can be used for scab. It’s not as effective as mancozeb but if you have your cultural controls in place you may find that it offers sufficient control and it’s a nice organic alternative.
There should be other captan products available, I’m quite certain that Bonide brand makes Captan as well, shake it well before you use it, it tends to settle at the bottom.
I do, BT is most useful against catapillars and a few other chewing insects so I will use it for tent catapillars or fall webworm on fruit trees and I also use it on brassicas in my garden like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.
Pine trees are not an issue at all, cedar trees can be an issue depending on exactly what type of “cedar” they are. It can be a bit confusing, and thanks to your comment I’m currently putting together an in depth video regarding cedar apple rust. Hopefully I’ll have it out this weekend, I link it below once it’s up.
Yea that’s a tough one, use strong cultural controls cleaning up fallen Leaves and fruit to help reduce disease pressure and be persistent in protecting your fruiting trees
I'm wondering if planting thyme around apple trees would help. It is naturally low-growing, and if its essential oils are used in a spray, it would seem that the plant itself might be beneficial. Thank you for your clear explanation and images for timing. I have an ancient apple tree in the back yard. I've always just mowed in the leaves and drops. This probably isn't the best idea, huh?
I’ve contemplated this myself. I believe that thyme and oregano as well, have a particular terpine called carvacoal which is known to be antibiotic, anti microbial etc. there are a few thyme based products out there but I have not yet used them. Not sure if planting them under your trees would have any real benefit in that regard but it certainly wouldn’t hurt to try.
1. Do you think mulch hold funges should I avoid mulch? 2. Can I combine different spray like agrocultural oil spray? 3. Can I continue funges spray as continued fruit tree spray after petar fall
1. yes, mulch can and will hold fungus. 99% of fungus is beneficial to your soil and your plants. 2. there are several pesticides that can and are often combined but Captan should NEVER be combined with any oil based products. 3. yes you can and probably should as long as you follow the "days to harvest interval" which should be stated on the label.
