Convert Your Harley Davidson Motorcycle To Points! 

Tip from a kick only pro of 52. Always follow thru with the kick even when it fires. There’s a kicker disengagement at the bottom of the kick to prevent kick back and injuries. Please don’t do the bounce kick. On your rapid return, your kick gear is engaged. Subject to engine kicking back on you if it misfires.

Don’t forget to gap spark plugs to .028” when running points. Only electronic ignitions run .040” Also I have a maintenance video of the flyweight assembly on my RU-vid channel if anyone needs it!

I've been waiting on a video like this for a couple years now. I want a kicker backup for my Evo and simplicity as far as wiring and ignition. I bought all the points components to have on me in case my current electronic ignition crapped out 300 miles from the house on a late Sunday night and I needed a quick and cheap roadside fix to get me home.

Been around bikes since the early 70s, good video, I was told by a automotive engineer years ago that if you understand tuning points, you can make more power with em,, they had to show the e p a , that they were working on smog

Watched this vid & figured I’d give points a shot. Slapped the points ignition & a new coil on today & my big twin evo fired right up. Thanks man!

I'm mainly considering points because a new single fire coil cost like $180 plus I think I need to replace the dyna 2ki ignition anyways, once the bike gets hot it acts funky. Points either work or don't lol. Thanks for being able to explain things so thoroughly and make sense to my pea brain

So glad i found this channel. Its nice having a reference when you feel stuck. I tend to overthink everything so these videos help a lot. Thanks bro

THIS is a good video on how to time a cone shovelhead or evo.... every video i see fails to mention that you have to advance the mechanism if you're going to time it to the advance mark on the flywheel. good job.

Ive been wanting to do this for my 95 Sportster. I like the simplicity and reliability of it

I am a total noob and this breakdown of what it is, how it works, then how to put it on is exactly what I need. Love the podcast and stoked to follow the channel.

Smart play is to carry your points setup as a backup on trips if you convert to electronic ignition.

The electronic modoule on my 1984 Softail died without warning in 1992. At the time, in order to repair it, I had to "upgrade" to the then current electronic ignition. $500 in 1992 might as well have been $500,000 for me (college student). A Blue Streak points conversion kit was $50. I made the decision to "go retro" and I ran those points for 11 years WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS! When my 1999 Softail had an electronic module failure, I already had a new conversion kit on the shelf waiting for just such an opportunity. My 1999 now sports points ignition and I am very happy. My 1984 Softail is currently being rebuilt and it will also sport Blue Streak points again. ETA: My 84 Softail has a 4 speed with kicker and I never had any problems using the kicker with the electronic ignition. I love the music made by a Big Twin running drag pipes and points ignition.

I’ve run points for 50 years. I’ve tried several electronic ignition that claimed to be great for kick. They never worked. However, I tried a “Rawhide Electronic Ignition” system for Shovelheads. I’ve got to say, it really woke my bike up. I still carry my point plate with me though.

I had a 12 year delay on doing this, exactly what I needed. Well done.

Good vid man! Liking the format!

I seem to remember putting some grease on the cam where the plastic points heel rides. Also the points contacts used to pit/corrode. Attractive option to consider

What kills most people trying to run electronic ignitions is the dead revs. They all come programmed with 3 dead revs. Which means the plugs wont fire for 3 revolutions of the motor. So when people prime, then key on and kick three times they are likely flooded before the plugs fire. You have to get/make the programming cable and set the dead revs to zero. This allows the plugs to fire immediately. I do this for all my kick bikes and they are all one kick bikes. Points for back up is a great idea though.

We didn't get into this because it was easy, we got into it because we thought it was easy. And now we are addicted 🥴🤣😭

A couple thoughts if you don't mind. Electronic ignitions turn a transistor off and on to mimic the action of the points. A popular misconception is that electronic produces a "hotter" spark. Bullshit. The advantage of electronic is there is no maintenance. Once set, the timing is always spot on. Points have a rubbing block that wears. If you keep up with maintenance that is not a problem. You are correct about carrying parts for roadside repairs. Points rarely fail, but electronic failures can be the module or the sensor or both. Several hundred dollars bouncing around in your bags is inferior to emergency point reparigging"ir parts. Hell, years ago my moving contact arm broke. Stranded across the street from a junkyard I stole points out of an old car and after some "rigging" I was on my way. Cool video , grease.

Thanks for that video man. Doing the conversion from electronic to points on my sporty, and I see where I went wrong..awesome vid

Dynatec in my 1978 flh (I say flh loosely), kick only, open primary, Accel coil, and wires. It's fully programmable and fires on the second or third kick every time. It's been on my bike for about 8 or 9 years now if I remember correctly. The engine is mostly stock, added a S&S CV carb, Santee upsweep exhaust (straight pipe) wide glide forks, 21" front wheel, barebones seat, 6" risers and drag bars. FXR rear fender, tombstone taillight, no signal lights, adjustable swing arm. I'm trying to find a way to take it with me when I die, hahaha. I also have a 91 softtail springer stage 3 screaming eagle set up. And just recently I bought a 1992 Electra Glide Ultra Classic, I've never been into baggers as is, but at 60 years old now I have a new appreciation for them.

just did this to my evo sportster. thanks for the help.

Love the Harbor Freight multi meter, they used to give them free with any purchase, with a coupon. I have several, and they work perfectly well. My ironhead sportster uses the same points as a Chevy straight six cylinder, such as a 194, or 230. The points in your kit appear to be identical. I recommend Blue Streak points, they are high quality, longer lasting, worth the money.

I changed my 84 Iron Head Sportster to point ignition when the electronic module failed. On the Sportster I had to change the coil because the points ignition uses a different coil. And I also changed the plugs as points ignition use different plugs with a different gap. If you go back to a shovel head that used points ignition you will find the right coil. It will make your kicker work much better. Great self explanatory video on how to change it over. My Sportster ran much better with points ignition although my gas mileage went down as the electronic ignition does advance the timing farther when cruising on the highway. I have a 99 Softail Custom now and may change it over to points as you can fix it. Simplicity of the Kettering system works. One other thing. And I noticed it right away on yours. Points ignition are retarded at idle which makes the EVO sound the same as a Shovel Head. I added a switch to the vacuum switch on mine so I can retard the timing. Drives the Twin cam guys crazy.

With the Hi-4n ignition you have a spark on the first kick. I never had any problems and maintenance-free. Easy kick start with correct advance and air/fuel mix. But it's much more expensive !!! next time I'll try the points :)

Great video. Another reason to go points: When I teach people how to wrench on stuff, electrical is always the most intimidating, and points with a minimal chopper wiring harness is like the training wheels. You can go all fancy electronics later, but you are building the foundation of basic electrical theory, so you have a chance of figuring out the more complex stuff, hah. Also, the central bolt that comes in those kits is garbage, they snap right where the threads part meets the unthreaded part. And they are a weird thread too, so they are hard to find at the hardware or auto parts store. I think it's 10-32 thread, but doesn't matter, you CAN get a very nice socket head cap screw, that is just the right size, from any Husqvarna dealer, it's the carb hold down bolt for a Husqvarna 181 and 288 family of saws. It's an older saw but they are a popular saw to hotrod so you can get the parts easy. The backing plate and points are the same as a Chevy 250 straight six truck engine, from 60's to 70's, so if you can find a mechanical advance used cheap, you can convert for under $20, I can't remember which mechanical advance works, maybe an iron head sportster, but check the forums, I'm not 100% on that. I have MS, so my memory is getting dodgy even though I'm only 40, hah.

I agree, ive heard of the guy that carries an extra electronic ignition, never meet him either. I kind of trust points over the electronic. Points might be aggravating to change on the side the road at night, can be done.

These are the best videos Cannot wait to see what else This channel brings. Proud to be a lowlife!!

Really good video! I understand it now. I couldn't understand static timing until watching bv your video soo good job. I have an 01 Fatboy and they sell a cam cover that allows you to convert from the stock softail ignition, to the early evo style ignition. Soo i guessbif i got it i could convert to points, or jus get a Morris Magneto setup huh?

THANK YOU FOR THIS! What kind of coil did you pair with your points ignition on your evo? Single or dual fire, and does it matter which? Also what ohm? Sorry for the questions lol I'm trying to do the same thing on my 97 xlc.

Thanks mate i really injoy watch your channel keep it up 😊

I'm that guy....my 82 shovel's converted to points for 37 years for the same reason you're converting, but my 86 evo fl is ultima electronic. I carry both a dyna pickup & mechanical weights set up, and an extra ultima. But I also carry 50 lbs of tools and spare parts. Enough to do a top end or final drive belt. Nothing wrong with points. Never had an issue (with some regular maintenance) other than some failed condenser's. Cheap china or mexico made condenser's are the biggest problem today....good luck and keep on wrenching!

Wow did'nt know so many were converting my electronic ignition went out so bought another it failed so l am converting to points also on my Evo.

Your video and the comment's are great. If I may add a bit, and some will be redundant. I do not know what all Saddle Tramp did with his points conversion with which he was not satisfied and went back to electronic ignition. Keeping in mind it is not points alone, but the coil, spark plug gap, plug wires and even the plugs themselves that are all parts making up the ignition system. Hooking up the primary side of the coil wrong (reversed), for example, will cause problems. Who is to say the total advance from the mechanical advance unit will be exactly the same as the total advance from the electronic system? My Evo has 35 degrees total advance with the original electronic system. Suppose the mechanical advance only has, for example, say, 30 degrees total advance. This is why we need to time the engine at total advance for points to compensate for the lack of 5 degrees advance and not at TDC for idle. Also, there is, or was, a spec for the tolerance or difference in the point gap at the highest part of the narrow cam lobe and highest part of the wide cam lobe. That was 0.002" or 2 thousandths. Check the gap at highest place on both lobes. They are to be within 0.002". If not, loosen the advance retaining bolt a little so it can move but not so loose as to move on its own. Now, gently tap the cam towards the lobe where the gap is too much. Like, you have 20 thousandths on the high point of the narrow cam but have, say, 24 thousandths at the high point of the wide cam lobe. Gently tap the advance unit with a soft mallet towards the wide cam. If you get, say, 22 thousandths then on the wide lobe, then the narrow lobe should have increased from 20 thousandths to 22. Readjust the gap then to 20 on the narrow lobe and you should have it within 2 thousandths on the wide lobe. This is an important tolerance. Other than that Standard Motor Products, used to be Standard Ignition I think, and they made Blue Streak points, condensers, etc., makes "Lubricam" which is silicone enhanced cam lobe lubricant. The idea is to minimize wear on the rubbing block of the points but not have it sling off. Used sparingly, a 7/8 ounce tube will last many lifetimes. If the auto parts store doesn't stock it you can have it ordered. Before plastic rubbing blocks they were a kind of hard fiberboard type of material and the would wear "fuzzy" from friction and lack of lubrication. Back in the day all good automotive tune up kits had a little capsule of cam lube included. Sorry to be so darn wordy. Thanks again!

I will probably do this to my 1986 Softail Custom when my crane HI4 ignition that I installed in 1996 goes out. Because I do not think I could get anything that has lasted as long as the crane ignition ever again.

Helllll yeah! Keep it up! Those little kick backs when kicking it over gave me fucking anxiety hahaha

That was a fantastic video! I just acquired an old 1988 Sportster 883 out of a friend's barn. It hasn't run for about 10 years, No Spark! The electronic pickup is kinda gooey, almosted melted looking. I was considering going with a points conversion before watching your video, but now I am 100% convinced this is for me. I am from the generation where everything had points and we made it work. The link you provided is for the year range before mine. Do you have a suggestion for a 'kit' for the 88? Thanks again for a great channel. Wish me luck!

One thing you did that will help people but didn't mention. Removing the plugs makes the engine far easier to turn over and get it exactly where you need it.

Great video thanks I will probably be doing this.

I an ditching all the electronics on my 06 sporty and instaling points with a simplified homemade electric main loom.

Iam always looking for fifth on my ole shovel 😅😅 points elec ign its your choice...hell why not a Morris magneto?

I ran Points in my Shovel for 17 years and I have been running Points in my Evo since 1995 and that was 280,000 kl ago , Points give a Bigger Fatter Spark and no limiter , I have been at this for 53 years and I set my points at 0.018" and with a 3 degree Advance ,

I used to buy a clear nylon plug ( see through )for the case to see the timing mark. They were only a buck and a piece of Teflon tape. I put them in and leave it.

Grease! Are the steps exactly the same for a 75 shovelhead??? I have seen other videos, and nobody talks about physically moving the cam lobe to advance position inside the cone @17:00 in your video.

what coil did you use? i have a single fire (3 wire)_ currently, but i have a dual fire coil (2 wire) as back up via electronic ignition on my 82' shovel fxrs. i'm contemplating going to points on it. i have a kicker on it as well.

Cool video....My issue is I have Shovelhead with STD duel plugs and a Dyna 2000i electronic ignition. How do you set up duel points?

Did you also change your coil to a 5 ohm coil? It is my understanding that Harleys with points run a 5 ohm coil and tighter plug gaps.

Great info! Do you know if the points kit will work on my 1992 heritage softail flstc?

Hey man, awesome channel. Question if you don't mind. I have a 2017 Heritage FlSTC . 28k milage adult riden. Maintenance 4k. Do I need to remove timing cover and inspect plastic shoes??

The way I find TDC is I'll rotate the motor until I start to feel compression with my finger over the sparkplug hole on the front cylinder. Then I look for my timing mark. When it's found after rotating the rear wheel in 5th or 4th gear, I'll drop a small screwdriver down the sparkplug hole and watch to see when the piston reaches it's peak. And boom, there it is.

Im having a problem getting the small lobe to come in contact with the points. Followed all these steps. Timing mark is set & turned my points plate all the way counterclockwise & the small lobe doesn’t touch when its fully advanced. Any advice?

Will this work on a 1996 Harley Evolution 80"? Tired of ignition modules wearing out. Thank you for the video!

Hello great video 👍, my 97 fat boy has electronic ignition, until now no problem. What are the differences whit mechanical ignition driving the bike? Like in an up hill the electronic ignition retards the sparks (right?), whit the mechanical what you have to do? Thanks

Will that transmission you have fit early 90s evo’s is there any adapter plates needed?

Which marks do you use on a sportster couldn't find it no were and does have to be in a certain gear to set the points also I have one red wire coming from my rectifier and no back one is this the one I hook up to the positive side of battery

Hey grease. Putting points conversion kit on my 80 model BT kick only .yes my electronic ignition did work from time to time as you mentioned in your video. Questions I have for you . Saddle tramp on here states in his video that evo's and late model shovelheads were never meant to take points as the notch on the end the cam is in a different position to early models and he could never get to points to work on his bike . Someone says in his comments to elongate the slot on the points backing plate to get more adjustments. Yet your video shows you can. I have bought the same kit as you used and it clearly says can work on later models after 78 with a points coil. I enjoy your videos and love your chop.

Good tutorial. Do these components needs any lubrication?

You have an open primary why not use a wrench or socket on your front pulley nut to turn your motor? It's easier and more precise to find your timing mark....also another plus for points is if your out and they do mess up you can get replacements at most auto part stores ( Harleys from 1970 up to 1978 use the same points and condenser as a 1970 Chevrolet 250 six cylinder)....ride safe and keep the videos coming...

I could have sworn you mentioned something about having to use a burr to grind out those rotation slots on the points plate a little. Is that not in this video?

How about setting the gap on the small lobe, getting the plate in a general position where the bike starts, then advance unit until you hear ping then slowly back off until ping is gone. lock down get down the road.

I actually want to even further back than points on my 91 fxsts too a Magneto. Even if you lose the charging system it will still run, you won't have lights but you won't be stranded on the side of the road either, especially if you added a kick start to the transmission. I have a 78 shovelhead flh bobber with a magneto, and it got me home when my alternator quit.

Damn link says product out of stock. Any other recommendations for the assembly. 1996 dyna with stock ignition and would like to switch over to points system

I switched over to points on my 1980 XLH 1000 Ironhead chopper that I built in my garage. I’m having some issues and I have a couple questions. The bike does not enjoy higher RPM/ freeway speed which is a problem because I’d like to get back to commuting. As of now 4th gear sputters unless I shift from 3rd to 4th at high RPM and it does not enjoy staying at higher RPM. Any suggestions? My next question is about spark plugs. I’ve read that resistor plugs aren’t good and that I should drop the gap from 40 to 30 with non resistor plugs. I’m currently running NGK 7022’s and I don’t know what non resistor plug will replace that correctly. Again, any suggestions appreciated. The last question would be regarding timing. I hear static timing a lot but I haven’t adjusted points on a Harley aside from these and I followed along in the Shovel head video you did about points conversions so I’m not sure if the hesitation is a sign to advance/ retard the timing or maybe start over and reset the points completely. Let me know what you think. I love the Ironhead and I really wanna get it back on the road.

Dynatek ignitions in my opinion are the best you can buy. I have one on my 1967 FLH Shovelhead. The engine was rebuilt in 1995. It was bored and stroked to 88". The heads were dual plugged so I have two Dyna coils that I run with their ignition. Since 1995 the only thing I have had to do was replace a coil a couple years ago. I have an electric start and a kicker. It may have been the first year for an electric start. There have been many times I've had to kick start it because of my battery getting weak. I can usually get it to start on the first or second time. With the older bikes there is a particular sequence you need to follow for an easier start. I will admit that I'm only 180lbs and there are many times that the bike will stop me dead in my tracks kicking it. Compression is a bitch sometimes. It's funny you're running a 4 speed and I'm looking to put a 5 in a 4 into this.

If you have an electric start how do you convert to a kick start? Is that a video you can do??

Hear ya. Riding basically the exact same _sketchy_ bike. Been running a Comp-Fire kick-only electronic ignition since around 2008. Works, but not ideal. There's a lot of heat in the cone; might not be the best place for electronics. My earlier bikes were all kick-only with points. They work. They are simple to diagnose. Gets rid of the VOES. And if there's juice it's going to start.

Hello! How do you connect the ignition wire to the coil?

I’m having grounding issues with my points. Any idea why this may be?

If you’re wanting to learn something, the best one to get is it’s just digital. I get it. It’s for cars, two bikes and everything. It’s a digital ignition system for single fire and dual fire. It’s for both. You can flip a switch and it’ll go right around Excel selling, but this one has been the best one I put in everyone of my bikes if you go on a long haul on your bike with point systems for several hundred miles, the next day when you stop for the night and you go to start that bike back up your points are gonna be needing filed off because they’re gonna be stuck together and it won’t start. It’ll just backfire. It’s not hard to get a book for Harley Davidson I’m my granddad. I’m old-school my granddaddy taught me everything that I needed to know about bikes and I still work on bikes and I just build them, I build them from the ground up and I’m not gonna lead you to nothing but if you would stop and look and learn and listen, shouldn’t be burning you cross something over that’s not working too good for you and I’m not just trying to tell you that just to scare you I’m just saying if you’re gonna run point systems you’re taking a chance of melting a piston or something if you get too hot But it’s smart to carry a lot or some stuff with you or an extra set of points and stuff like that with tools. Everything you need to get yourself fixed on a roadside breakdown and there ain’t gonna be nobody to help you unless it’s another biker so you’re gonna have to think this all by yourself so you’re have to learn how to mechanic it or you just pretty much to have a little bit of money and get towed every time you break down if you’re not gonna learn how to learn your bike I’m not making fun of you but learn your bike. It’ll be a lot cheaper And stop and learn before you do it. Yes the thing learn your bike. Learn what you know what you learn. How do you learn by reading the book that just I had to learn a lot of stuff before I could get on a bike for my dad, my granddaddy, my mom dad would let me get a bike. I had to learn a lot about a bike. I’m glad you did it that way cause I don’t need not one person not one or dealership to do my oil change my oil. I don’t need somebody to work on my bike. I don’t need somebody to Rebuild my engine on my bike. I know every nut bolt screw pin. I’ve got an 883 and it’s a stroker all roll three-quarter can and she’s just no school stoplight to stop like drag bike street bike. Yeah run down the strip strip Huntsville, Alabama, but if you want a little help on some stuff, if you want something different but don’t go to that mod box and every year or every two years or every email or every other year you have to change that thing out every time I mean, everybody’s like you said everybody’s got their good beliefs and their lights and you’ve had some bad luck so I mean, I just do that for you but you have to get off this. Let’s just say let’s go to something cheap and let’s go something. You might know just one wire no write it down it buddy, you’ll get onto it. I’m not saying nothing bad we all had to learn somewhere so hard but don’t go out but don’t ride as fast as your angels can fly buddy never do that. You have a good night man.

I bought that points kit for my 2003 sportster i was told it doesn't work with a 2003 i know it won't with an 04 sportster. Getting ready to buy a dyna s ignition and trying to find out if my bike will run properly with point's

Ye, the only little advantage electronic has is a little higher output and less maintenance. But… I always ditch electronic ignitions I just like points, easy and simple and great for kickers.

So does this eliminate the need to have a CDI ignition module?

What kit did ya go with?

CHEVY points.

Hi May I know what points are you using? Please share

I'm still waiting to meet that guy too 😂

What kind of open primary do you have

🤘🏻🤘🏻

What coil do we need for this application?

That an EFI sporty motor by chance??

What part of the coil do I attach the points cable to?

Trying to find out what open primary cost

I run Chevy sixcylinder 250ci runs like it should and with a bigger cam .I'm just throwing that out there,13buks

Why is it different inkick start from starter motor on points

What did it cost for dry belt for your evo

Another channel, "saddle tramp" just posted a video. He was taking points out of a evo he recently put in. He said it was impossible to time it properly. He believes the detent on the shaft is different because of the stock ignition. Making it impossible to time the engine. Have you ran into this ? How do you know what set of points to buy ?

Ha well I am that person you have to meet. I just today this morning had to install my new spare ultimate icm bought it a few months back and well i had it with me and sadly today i had to use it yes this is all fact bummer tho i still have no spark i lost spark last nite while riding so now I'm hunting 2 single fire coils. Any suggestions to help get fire back I would appreciate. But I am the guy you spoke of. Lol

Is it bucking you back when you’re kicking it? Maybe want to retard the timing a bit more? I’m thinking about switching to static points, seems simple and like you said cheap and available. I’ve got an evo with a 4 speed kick and it’s been giving me trouble when it gets hot.

Yeah, I still set my points with a book of matches.

I cut my teeth on a '73 Sportster many years ago. I had to screw w/ my points so much I just left the cover off. I know how those babies work inside and out. My present ride is a '99 Evo Softail. I might just convert to points before something happens to the Module/ VOES/ sensor, etc, etc... and leaves me stranded.

My 1995 Dyna super glide, 80 cubes( The only thing done to bike was carbon fibre carby kit, Vance and Hinze pipes and headers, 32 rear drive cog and 75 tooth rea tyre cog.), Overtook a factory honda on a corner 2 up, sports bike are go fast bikes LMFAO. It is the rider not the bike.

The coil has to be changed from 3 ohm to 5 ohm when using points. Try not to leave the ignition on for too long when the motor is not running, this will burn the coil out over time...

Well I'm the guy that has a dyna 2000 carries a spare with him 🤠.. but I better set of points and I may someday put them in my bike I've got a 98 Softail...

Why can't my hair be this cool

Follow through with your kicker. Your looking for a hurt ankle kicking like that.

dyna 2000i

I run points on my Ironhead and my Evo big twin. All mechanical advances are not created equal. The cheap chinese ones can be sloppy made and can cause erratic timing events. It pays to have a higher quality mech. advance.

I went back to points when my electronic ignition died . Will never go back to electronic ignition

To much timing when it Kicks back like that

Heres a surprising fact about points vs electronic. Most electronic ignitions arent advanced at all and are no better than 1949 technology. Reason being is because most electronic bikes of today put out a yellow or red spark for your plugs, when your goal is to produce a BLUE spark at your plugs. So if my points ignition puts out a good blue spark, then how is your late technology ignition better when it only produces a red spark?