Did something similar in the past for old bicycle lamps. But in some cases I reglued the old glas domeoverthe the LED so you would see the glas dome. A few times I used the glass bulb of an other lamp. An other "trick. I had a smaller Led inside the metal base and glued a plastic bead over it.
Glad you liked it :) It's still running fine whenever I press the button. Keeping it on a low voltage, I think, is key. It puts out a bit less than 1/2 brightness, compared with a 1W LED working through a driver etc., but 50ish Lumens is still very useful and it doesn't heat up. Cheers
This same type of trench torch was used by the 2 British actors in the first continuously unbroken 9 minute shot of the movie 1917 leaving the British trenches and crossing the enemy line and going down into the deserted German trenches and going down into a tunnel, but for the movie they removed top covers I think.
Yes, I spotted them in the movie trailers :) It looked like they weren't in their covers, which was a shame. Some versions had the front of the leather lid detachable from one side, and it would then swing out of the way, so you could get full light without having to undo the whole lid. I haven't seen the film yet, but hope to at some stage. It's a beautiful torch, In a user's manual I found online, it described the lid's covering style as being used for map reading. The Morse code key had rather a lot of travel, so I bent a thin strip of brass around the stem of the button to restrict the movement to around 1mm, giving it a much more positive feel, and crisper dots and dashes. You can see it at the beginning of the video. Thanks for commenting, and stay safe. Cheers Duncan
@@duncanmcharg I also heard that the entire leather lid's covering was also used in WWI as a form of hiding mechanism to be able to obscure most of the lens when doing Morse Code to someone, allowing just the tiniest little bit of light to escape, and ensuring that the enemy could probably not readily see the message if they were not in direct line-sight of that mostly partially obstructed beam. (it is also probably to protect the lens itself though, too). Additionally, the lens itself was specifically designed to be extremely unidirectional, such as almost like today's laser lights, so as to almost entirely prevent anyone from any of the side positions from being able to see the beam, and mostly the majority of the focus of the beam could only be harnessed into a very specific linear direction and therefore only realistically those in direct aim of the beam could really truly see it.
G'day Gregory, No modifications to the torch. I used 2 Alkaline 'C' sized batteries, one Positive up, the other Negative up. Sponge was used to hold them in position under the two contacts up inside the top of the torch: one long block in between the batteries, with a strip of brass sheet pushed through the bottom of the block to make a connecting bridge between them. Make sure the brass won't touch the body of the torch (short circuits aren't good :) ). Then another block of foam between the bottom of the batteries and the battery case hatch to keep them pressed up to the contacts. This doesn't work really well, and I am planning on making a wooden insert, as I did for another antique torch. I think I'll have to make a film about that when I do it :) I'll let you know when I get around to it. All the Best. Cheers
:p :D I collect various antique torches that I use when I need a torch. Much more fun than a modern generic. I have a basic knowledge of Morse Code (thanks DahDit app); just wish there was a local Morse code club I could polish up my skills with. I get lost listening to CW users (Morse is known as Constant Wave among practitioners) as they go so fast; it's not unknown for people to signal above 50words per minute! Hope to catch up with you sometime soon. Cheers
