Converting the 6 volt system to a 12 volt | 1948 Ford Concept Car Hauler 🚚 

You godda remember Chad's skills are fabrication, hence the reason he got Wally in to sort out the mechanics/electrics!

I'm only half-way through and have no idea the thought-process Wally was using here. I've built, by scratch, about 50 custom wiring harnesses for all the cars I've built and have never used a ballast resistor on the distributor side of the coil. Never. It's the coil, seeing 12v, even on a 12v system, that would want to see the ballast resistor. They can't handle 12v, or higher, for more than a couple minutes without getting very hot. I'll append this if by the end I see otherwise, but from other comments - I don't think that will happen. Converting 6v to 12v requires : - 12v starter (often a custom build if there isn't already something on the market fitting old motors). - 12v Generator or Alternator (gens are easy to find and adapt, since they were all nearly the same shape). - 12v voltage regulator - 12v bulbs everywhere - Ballast resistor on battery-side of coil (or a 12v coil stating No Ballast Resistor Required. They exist) - 12 to 6v voltage reducer for gauges, or having these upgraded to 12v as well. A ballast resistor is not the same thing, though it lowers output voltage. Voltage reducers allow for staying cool while being a large heater coil sucking up half the voltage. So, we'll see how this pans out. I don't see in this video anything being converted to 12 volts correctly. Sorry Wally, but I suspect to see some smoke in Chad and Jolene's future, which is my only reason for posting this. Putting 12 volts into all these 6 volt parts is an accident waiting to happen.

I had to get a 5.5 ohm coil for my 1961 Harley to run a 12 volt battery as when the points are closed it creates a dead short back to the negative side of battery. This puts too much current through a 1.5 ohm coil which causes coil to head and eventually to burn up. The resister should be put in the 12 volt wire that feeds the coil to reduce voltage to coil. The ignition switch can be used to supply full 12 volts to coil for better spark to plugs when starting,then when ignition switch is in the run position the resistor is brought in to reduce voltage to coil.

Did they put in a 12 volt generator,looks like the original 6 volt.

What about the gauges? The fuel sending unit is the hard part to make the fuel gauge read right. The temp sensor and the amp meter.

And 6v voltage regulator. And fuel level sender and guage. Dash light bulbs.

That’s what I’m saying you gotta do it all

All lamps, including headlights. If not they won’t last long.

Other then he doesnt know about 6 volt or even 12 volt positive ground systems

Resistor goes on positive side of coil not negative side .

runtz? is that the ballast resistor or is that different? I've never worked with 6 volt.

you're correct, those old motors have heavier windings than the newer 12v motors.

I was thinking the same thing. On the old Dodges it was that way. But the key switch that this truck has is only on/ off. I believe it does not have start on key switch. With the dodge it ran through the resistor in on, but by passed it in start position. Also the wire that goes to the points was a resistor it self. I tried to use a plain wire once and it keep burning the points.

that is also what I was thinking but hey i dont know shit well enough to tell someone else how to do it

Yep, no way to have a resistor bypass for starting, which they used on the 6v system as well, this will only work in ideal conditions. Seems to be a theme here, make it work but not right...