COOSA TRANSOM ON BERTRAM MOPPIE 25 GOING IN! (Minor Epoxy Hiccup)

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There's a reason I like using a slow hardener with my epoxies; long working times which I definitely needed this round to get everything situated. Editing doesn't really convey this but the Coosa core shifted around on me for almost an hour while I was trying to get it braced in position. Without the added working time this would have been a disaster!
The tradeoff with slow hardener is that it can take longer than anticipated to setup in cooler temps :-/ Luckily it all worked out but there were Pucker Moments lol ;-)
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Опубликовано:

12 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 96

@dondonaldson1684 2 года назад

I always have the same problem with glue-ups in that they want to creep. Epoxying in a couple of locating pins before the Coosa went in would probably have helped. Consider this before putting on the next layer of Coosa. Good job Andy. It is good that the hardener finally did its job!

@RechargeableLithium 2 года назад

Glad to see progress on the transom, Andy! Heat is your friend when working with epoxy, especially when one can use low temps for working time! I did a bit of foam/fiberglass aircraft construction years ago in Illinois. The cool garage helped with pot life, a bit of heat from a blow dryer was sometimes useful for wetting out thicker glass, and the heater and plastic tent kept the cure happy overnight. When I worked in a shop that made aircraft parts, we would use epoxy filler for finishing, as well as epoxy cut 40% with acetone for sealing cut edges and curing the micro-delamination from cutting and sanding edges. The parts spent 20 minutes in the paint shop's heated 'curing room' and they were ready to sand. I look forward to seeing the Bertram in my favorite lake! (Ok...back to twiddling my thumbs...I have a companionway hatch board in the oven curing after the second coat of epoxy LOL)

@gdk414 2 года назад

You are very brave adding the epoxy over the deck like that! Love what you do! Been watching for years

@WreckDiver99 2 года назад

When I saw that bend, the first thing I thought was "Not cured, you keep the shop cold in the winter". Glad that it did work out for you!!

@charlesjones257 2 года назад

didnt read all the comments but, you could use a small "milk house heater " placed in the bilge with a tarp over the back of the boat. can hardly wait to see it in the water. great content, keep up the good work.

@todddunn945 2 года назад

Time is your friend when it comes to curing epoxy. Although I would consider 65F warm. I do most of the work on my boats at the ends of the season here in Maine and often do epoxy bonding when it is at or below freezing at night. My boats are in an unheated shed. For example, last December I was bonding down a new cabin sole in the forward cabin of my sailboat and generally had to wait at least two days and sometimes three before I could remove clamping pressure (lead weights). I had a few nights in the 20s, but the job came out fine despite the cool weather. I have never had an epoxy failure with bonds done in the low 40s and 30s, but I have only been doing this sort of work for 30 years, so there is still room for a first time. I use West System epoxy since that is what is available here.

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

Hey Todd! Guessing here, but were you using a fast hardener (205)? If I had used the TB fast hardener I suspect everything would have been cured (or at least set up) within a few hours, but It also may have gotten me in trouble with how much time it took me to get the panel in place and braced :-/

@todddunn945 2 года назад

@@boatworkstoday Yes Andy, I almost always use fast hardener due to the temperatures I am working at. That said, I have used fast hardener in a warm shop (60-65F) with no issues when bonding large (4'x4') plywood panels to a substrate. I almost always use West 403 microfibers for thickening and seldom use silica. That said, I am generally bonding wood to wood. It may be subjective, but I find that thickened epoxy has a longer working time than unthickened. I seldom leave my epoxy in the pot long and often mix in a cooled metal pan when it is hot (>60F). I also use smaller batches than you were using.

@lifeofdave1237 2 года назад

A great job well done Andy 👌 had no doubts about your work and the mixing being correct. A little temp soon sorted it out 👍 and an extra bit of filling around the bottom won't hurt.

@riverflyswatter 2 года назад

Great work. Never let perfect get in the way of good. Little thickened epoxy for that bottom gap is just a little extra work

@ValiantSlantSix64 2 года назад

Consider using heat lamps on the Outside of the transom. Heat will go through it quickly.

@tstuart7333 2 года назад

Super video Andy. I could watch and listen to you all day. I admire and respect the man who is not afraid to admit so fault or wrong doings. I'm learning a lot from you with regards to fiberglass and technics. Thanks for sharing looking forward to the next video.

@berg8970 2 года назад

I guess this is your retirement boat, it's taken you long enough... Just kidding looking forward to more videos.

@atruefreethinker1944 2 года назад

glad you are back on the Bertram. happy your goop set!

@jamesallbright3170 11 месяцев назад

We use heat lamps in the winter on F/A-18s in the military repairs when the shop gets really cold. Chears

@gilcri1949 2 года назад

As a pattern maker, I work with epoxy and polyurethane products of all kinds once it's dry completed it takes another 7 days to completed cure to be brittle or snap off you can accelerate the curing time by 24 hours by heating your product for around 140 to 160 degrees by using haet lamp or if the part is small enough you can use an oven.

@beefcakes27 2 года назад

Nice work... I can see it's going to be Christmas all year in your shop.

@charlesjones257 2 года назад

at some angles, it even looks like they are on:)

@olafschermann1592 2 года назад

You should mix thickener only in the mixed epoxy/hardener. Because some thickener absorb the epoxy and then the epoxy-hardener relationship isn’t correct.

@Bakanelli 11 месяцев назад

Like Talc right? But he isn’t cheap and there’s no way he would use EXPENSIVE Coosa + EXPENSIVE Epoxy + CHEAPASS Talc but rather the EXPENSIVE Fumed Silica (hydrophobic). That being said, haven’t seen him use Talc EVER.

@capitanschetttino8745 2 года назад

Your cardboard tool worked like a charm! That was so cool and it was another win!!

@stevegem4155 2 года назад

If I have a localized glue up in cold conditions, I will put an electric, oil space heater near the glue up and then just throw up plastic blue tarp over the top of it to make a tent . that'll keep that area warm without having to heat the whole shop. works every time!

@ocean_capable_small_sailboat 2 года назад

Great tips, thank you. I'm building a sailboat on my channel and always find your videos helpful.

@breikowski 2 года назад

Mark your edges with sharpie, then hot glue on some blocking to hold placement? Just spitballing simple solutions.

@lorenclifton110 2 года назад

Really enjoying the progress on this transom. Thanks Andy for the great videos.

@chrish2996 2 года назад

Hi Andy. Have a bit of faith. It turned out good in the end. Win win. 🏆

@jeffwigzell730 2 года назад

Im not reading previous comments, sorry. If you drill some 1/8" holes in the coosa, once you put it in compression, it will mitigate voids. The (thinset) epoxy needs a place to go once it cant go to the edges.

@erikbatsford3294 2 года назад

Here in NE Florida it's usually around 60 during the day this time of year. I had issues with resin and paint being thick (Alexseal is some thick shit when it's cold!!!) so I needed a solution and found it in a box of car parts. I put a warming blanket for Nitrous Oxide bottles around the can or bottle and hook it up to a small 12 battery. Brings the temp up in seconds and is safe. Also use infrared heaters like they use to cure paint in body shops. Get a 220v and it's super cheap to run compared to heating your whole building.

@luxorbill269 2 года назад

I'm surprised that you were concerned about the curing. If there is one thing I've learned from your channel about epoxy is it needs temp. Without that, you need time. I've used the TB 5:1 with fast hardener in my cool garage. Mixing very small amounts by eye, always sets up and preforms. May have to bring the part in the house to finish but always sets. TB epoxy seems very forgiving. Thanks for the lessons.

@nfk6869 2 года назад

I wonder if mixing the resin and hardener first before adding fillers would have helped. I always thought that was the way it was recommended to be done. I see there are advantages

@jdlane5136 2 года назад

Having your epoxied panel "creep" before the epoxy sets up there is a fix for that. Take some 1/8" flat stock aluminum bend it in a 90 degree angle so one end is has a t least 4 square inches and the other end just large enough to hold the panel being epoxied. Take a large hot glue gun and glue down the bracket to stop the panel from moving. Like on the project you were doing 8 brackets would keep the panel from "creeping". Remove the brackets and glue is easy with a heat gun and acetone. It cleans up nicely.

@seatowsouthshore 2 года назад

You pointed out a warp in the transom gunwale cap. Was that due to the braces pushing out the transom? Did the warp return to normal afterwards? Also, If you're trying make a bulletproof transom, couldn't you have added a layer of biax to either the whole transom before your coosa, or at least laminated the back of the coosa before installing? Alternating layers of glass and coring would make for a very strong buildup.

@woodenhead8887 2 года назад

I’ve noticed the same with epoxy cure time in my shop. It’s a small shop so I typically keep it at 65F which helps working time, then crank it to 75F when I’m done. If I cleanup my mess the next morning it’s always plasticy, by the next day it’s brittle.

@brianmacadam4793 2 года назад

I'm impressed with your work, looking at it though I wonder if standing the whole boat up 45 degrees on its stern (locked on its trailer) would have allowed you to lay consecutive layers of glass and an easier buildup

@AncientScotty Год назад

Waiting to see you epoxy the fiberglass on the vertical surfaces. I have trouble with that part.

@stevengunter8845 Год назад

Andy, thanks for the videos, educational & inspirational. I'm in the process of refitting a "87 Catalina 25ft. swing keel.... Seeing this video and your use of "Coosa Board" for a transom, what would be your thoughts on using coosa board for bulkheads? I love the idea of great rot resistance in an area that is notorious for leaks on a sailboat. Additionally, my plan would be to overlay the board with 1/4 to 1/2 inch worth of fiberglass with vertical "grooves" (sorry don't know the correct term) to give the appearance of individual boards. Again, thanks for the videos.

@skrapenpennies9947 2 года назад

Man you have way more patience than me

@Starboatbuilder 2 года назад

Hi Good Vlog - great explanation - Just a thought ; you need to "add" a couple of gussets to connect (stress concerns) sides & bottom to the transom.

@Abraren0815 2 года назад

Get some cheap heating blankets and apply them over the glue. Much cheaper than heating the whole building. Works fine for me .

@secondarycontainment4727 2 года назад

Andy's back!

@robgun1895 2 года назад

Thank you for the knowledge 😃 I learn something with every one of your videos thanks 👍

@danielfreixo179 2 года назад

Always a super pro job. Congrats.

@tonnierooker5374 2 года назад

Finally working again nice to after so many months 😂😂👍👍

@buckpowers4837 2 года назад

good job and a lesson learned that you shouldn't rush it.

@dalespringerwilson4233 2 года назад

Great video as always !

@tartansailor 2 года назад

For the next phases and as winter shall last another few months, why don't you use a tarp to cover the boat and a small electric heater to warm up the inside of the boat? Cheers, Richard

@leesmith5419 2 года назад

Glad it worked out for you and by the way I love the videos

@thepigwillfly5869 2 года назад

Great video as always. I have a question about working with epoxy. I used epoxy with slow hardener to coat some 1/2" plywood I used as a floor/wall for my port-side locker. The first coat went on nicely; however, the second coat fish-eyed. I watch some of your old videos and read stuff in West Systems manuals....I suspect he issue was that I didn't get all the amine blush off before I applied the second coat. I am planning to use a scrubby and water water to wash the plywood down again and then sand it smooth with 100 grit before applying a third layer. I know it is just boards for a locker and I am the only one who will even see it but I want it to look nice (read: no fish eyes). Any suggestions on steps to take to get a nice final coat of epoxy?

@markgallagher1376 2 года назад

I had the same thing happen. I checked the puck of left over resin at the bottom of the mixing cup the next day and it was like rubber. 2 days later it was hard as a rock.

@Cavalier-lp8tr 2 года назад

Instead of turning up the heat throughout the building could you not rig up some heat lamps to cure things?

@michaelspooren9213 2 года назад

Fimgers crossed helpd ;-)

@blueyhis.zarsoff1147 Год назад

Did you let the mix sit in the pot and get warm before you spread it on the coosa? I have found that when you thicken it, leave it on the pot till it starts to go, it will be fine once you spread it out I do that and its in 77f here.

@RA-gk5zg 2 года назад

Love your channel. I have an odd question. How stiff is Coosa board? Is it stiffer than plywood? Could you do simple bends like plywood or would it crack?

@pmnfernando 2 года назад

if the resin and hardener are not tampered in any way and given the fact that you didnt F'ed the mix, there should be no reason why it wouldnt cure at those temperatures. ive been epoxying at or just below 60F and the damn thing cures. takes longer yes, but it cures. not a good temperature too laminate cloth as everything is even more viscous and really hard to work the resin into it, but it is what it is. come next morning its good enough for the peel ply to come out!

@B._Smith 2 года назад

Nice

@kokodin5895 2 года назад

thinking outside the box how much effort would it be to stand the boat on it's back end and laminate everything as flat horisontal surface ?

@burrodemadera9750 2 года назад

I have a question , i just painted a sliver metal flake and gel coat clear on top of it, the next day it looked milky cloudy any idea why this happens

@ronaldbitter5783 2 года назад

Very helpful, as always...

@ianluscombe7429 2 года назад

Is this the latest video of the transom modification please

@rogerheuckeroth7456 2 года назад

We use heat laps in the shop when its cold.

@jimmrazek4533 2 года назад

How do I get ahold of you on a custom repair. I'm doing it in Southern California.

@chrome-andy 2 года назад

Have you tried using bonding compounds or adhesives rather than thickened epoxy resin?

@user-jq4gs1nl4s 11 месяцев назад

What would the best way to thin out thick poly reisn

@kevinpuertovlogz 2 года назад

Alright watching master, Nice dating continue to upload master I'll continue to support also 🙏⛵🐟⚓👍

@mrgoldfpv7331 2 года назад

How do you repair CM Tech hull?

@WaterfrontJustin 2 года назад

After all this it begs the question.. why didn't you just revert back to factory twin inboards and save a ton of time and effort and have it run and float the way bertram intended?

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

So far really no added work. Transom was wet so needed to be re-done anyway. Cost of 2 inboards way more than what I was able to get 2 nice Honda's and getting rid of the in-boards opens up a ton more room on the aft area of the deck ;-)

@lostin.psychosis7080 2 года назад

i have a 87 grady white overnighter 20 that needs a transom. i will be doing it my qwestion is can i do it from the outside as there is a whole bunch of stuff on the inside i would rather not cut out i want to cut the outside skin and install coosa will this be strong enough ? running a honda 130 4stroke on the back

@roryconiglione9486 2 года назад

What would you have done if you heard a hollow sound with the hammer.

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

Burned the boat lol :-) Probably drilled out a hole where it was hollow and pump the void full with thickened epoxy

@quickrelease100 2 года назад

You can’t add fillers before hardener, period. Ill keep short.

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

Curious, why? If the goal is to have everything well incorporated, as long as it happens does the order matter? Personally I'd rather have the time to mix and apply rather than have the material kick off in the cup as I'm still trying to mix :-)

@charlesjones257 2 года назад

@@boatworkstoday andy, looks like a test project is in order

@xephael3485 2 года назад

What's the material you're epoxying to the transom? Sorry if I missed that in video.. cussa panel?

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

It's called Coosa. Basically a fiberglass reinforced foam panel that can't ever rot ;-)

@xephael3485 2 года назад

@@boatworkstoday I have a sailboat transom I need to work on and want to stiffen it up... Marine grade plywood perhaps better for this application? Sounds like you're going over the fiber-renforced coosa with more fiberglass for strength?

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

Either material would work well. Regardless of what you go with you'll still need to fiberglass overtop :-)

@robertschulke1596 2 года назад

When clamping an area that large, why not vacuum bag it?

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

The time for setup and chance of air leaks on the bag is more work and risk than needed for something like this IMO :-)

@TheDoug9901 2 года назад

patch looks across I go tip to tip clear across the back

@artongashi6206 2 года назад

How harmful is it to human health Wax, PVA, Gelcoat and polyester resin, and is there any problem in working without protective mask ever?...

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

When working with any kind of resin or filler material you should always be wearing a mask with filters that can scrub organic vapors. www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT2SWTE?ref=exp_boatworkstoday_dp_vv_d

@malekodesouza7255 2 года назад

Respirator and nitrile gloves. Always.

@scottgorman7166 Год назад

@@boatworkstoday and safety glasses when mixing. I had a peroxide container just burst in my face and peroxide in my rt eye. All is good but it was scary for a while. Great videos by the way.

@jdlane5136 2 года назад

What is the clamp you used on the top? It looks like a magnetic clamp of some kind?

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

Just a regular F-style wood clamp :-)

@jdlane5136 2 года назад

@@boatworkstoday Is there a magnet part to it? How did it stick on the wall of the boat?

@doomguy584 2 года назад

@@jdlane5136 you put another magnet on the other side

@mmanut 2 года назад

That entire transom should have one large sheet of cousa board covering it. Don't like the way you cut it up.

@grumpyjohntxredneckrc6346 2 года назад

Well Alrighty Then, Butt A Lil 1500w Space Heater + Some Cut Up Garbage Bags Pointing The Heat At The Stern From Inside The Boat Mighta Been A Lil Cheaper & More Practical Than Heatin Up The Whole Giant Building!? Plus A Few Screws In Corners To Keep It From Sliding Around!? Just Sayin... 🤣

@grahamwheelock7497 2 года назад

Don't put your filler with resin always resin and harder and then filler did you not read the good book of west

@boatworkstoday 2 года назад

Watch my previous 2 weeks of video's ;-)

@yzmoto80 2 года назад

I love your videos and you’re a fantastic artist. Just a little constructive criticism, in regards to your chemical mixing, you don’t need to video tape, nor share your pondering with weights and measures. It is down right confusing, annoying, and completely useless, especially when you change your weights and measures, out of pondering, just as fast as you are videotaping. INSTEAD…just make your videos, give us a quick run down of what chemicals you’re using, and when you’re done with your glue up, or lay up, tell us what your finished outcome was, and the final weights and measures of your chemicals. And…I think it will be less frustrating for you, when trying to explain your processes, products, weights and measures. Keep up the great work sir ! And please breathe safe around all those chemicals, AND DUST !

@HOSER227 2 года назад

Place a plastic bag over your Christmas trees, so they don't collect any dust! If you allow dust to be collected your wife will make you buy new ones next year!

@SteinVarjord 2 года назад

Most epoxies need like a week to fully cure in normal room temperature. (They get “hard” much earlier.) Much faster in higher temps. Interestingly, if the temp is 50 degrees C or more, the epoxy gets much stronger. Harder and at the same time more flex tolerant. I’ve tested it with several epoxies some years ago. Really big differences.