Copper Electroplating In 3 Minutes! - How To Make Copper Plating Solution 

learn to spell and check your spelling when finished. Shinny isn't the right word unless you are travelling up or down a pole or rope. what is debar? deburr? "a automatic?" should be "AN"! people do read this stuff sometimes, so if you want to sound smart, literacy helps!

Thanks

If you have the opportunity, get yourself a premade copper electrolyte with sulfuric acid. Way easier to handle and you’ll get better results. Stainless steel requires nickel-strike first before copper plating.

Yeah. Acid is also nice. It produces more toxic fumes, though they can be managed with a good respirator. The results would be almost the same.

In order to plate aluminum you need to treat the aluminum in a zincate solution.

Too much amps on your power supply? Gotta do it on low amp and low voltage otherwise your copper anodes (copper wire) turns brown (oxedize). You can use 2 table spoon of toilet cleaner liquid too but careful with fumes

@@Simple.Crafts I am using 12 volts

@@Simple.Crafts I also have a 5 volt supply will try it thank you

12v is way too high for this. Yeah 5v should be ok. Glad to help

@@Simple.Crafts yup it started turning blue Thank you so much

glad you liked it. you can clean those copper wires with sand paper or steel wool and use it again and again.

Thanks. Hope you enjoyed

Hi. I'm glad you enjoyed. About 220 cc of water for 1 TSP of baking soda ( and a bit less of salt )

Most likely not as brass is an alloy of copper and tin (don’t fact check me on that) and you’d have a better chance of using a blowtorch to heat up a brass brush and brush it over the part (which is what I do)

Palladium bad no play with

Just like when you dissolve sugar in water, at some point the water can't take any more sugar, so it becomes concentrated. same concept here. After a while, the solution gets a deep blue color, and the process slows down by itself. You could tell by the amount of bubbles that are being produced; they become less and less visible. Basicaly, when it's blue enough, it's ready.

@@Simple.Crafts Thanks for the info, I'm going to try this soon for the first time so I'll look out for that. I'll try with salt water but I've seen others recommended an alkaline solution followed by an acetic acid solution for the best results

Anytime. Yes, you get more shine and a more durable finish with acid-based solutions, but they're more advanced and require more work. It's so much fun!

​@@Simple.CraftsAny compromise to avoid acid and still create durable more shiny finish? Maybe use 5% vinegar or a battery electrolyte?

As far as i know, Can not copper plate aluminium directly like shown in the video due to its lack of electrical conductivity. For it to work though, It has to be treated with other methodes prior to copper, zinc for example.

@@Simple.Crafts Thank you, will research more :D

Anytime

Yes Permanently. until you sand the copper layer off

@@Simple.Crafts have you tried electroplating a carbon rod from a battery ? Like a good layer of copper? I been messing around with carbon arc welding and been trying to make my own rods out of charcoal and graphite ect. Just experimenting with it rn . I got the carbon rods in decent shape but just missing the copper plate . I tried but its more like a slimy moss that comes off . Not alot online on the secrets of the plating procedure. Idk if my problem is the solution or the power supply. I only tried it couple times with voltage 1.5-5v 0.5a-3a Any suggestions?

Not done it myself. I would definitely look into it in near future. But as far as I know: 1. your copper sulfate must be well concentrated. Like deep blue color almost. Meaning there are enough copper ions in it. 2. Your graphite rods must be dense enough and not powdery on the surface. Otherwise, it's like painting on a dusty surface. 3. Maybe try using different graphite source. Or maybe yours isn't dry enough? 4. Your power supply setting looks good and is not the issue. Keep me updated plz

@@Simple.Crafts thanks . You’re right it probably is the powder/flakes on the outside of the rod and possibly even the type of carbon and the continuity through out the rod. I plan on using carbon rods from zinc and graphite from different types of pencils crushed into powder , and making a conducive ink .. I will then carefully char in enclosed cans differnt types of woods like hard woods and soft woods ect. ,then check the resistance of samples from each can till i find plenty good charcoal to make a rod out of each type of char-wood . The char will be compressed into a pipe in my preferred size and the pipe will also be in 2 halfs held together by metal clamps . I will probably hammer down into the pipes to really compress the char. I forgot I will also need a binder for the char to stick together which i might use the conductive ink or use water glass , i used water glass previously without adding a layer of ink but will probably olay around and test differnt tyoes Of binders.. Also might heat dry or let natural dry the rod before i char it up again in the compressed pipe. I will probably test alot of different samples

Great strategy .Looking forward to the result

Thx

Yes, you can if you make a much higher volume solution than mine (maybe 4 times bigger). Then you will need bigger anodes (copper wires) and less salt to reduce the current. But for the plating phase, I wouldn't go with 12 volts, unless your plating object is massive.

@Simple Crafts plan to copper coat tools from an old mechanics toolbox instead of zinc coating them.

I think it could be done. If you already made the copper solution, then Just plate bunch of them at once in a large container ( tie them in series with copper wire).

Actually won't work on galvanized part. Because as you already know the galvanization will remove iron from metal surface in order to rust proof it, so copper does not stick to the part. Thats why i sanded that washer to bare metal becuase it had coating on it.

@@Simple.Crafts The only good way to copper plate iron, zinc, etc. is to plate first a alcaline copper not acidic one because it won't stick, then you can use acidic copper bath. Or as said on a nickel layer then copper

@@chlore2amine so if i start with copper sulfate crystals dissolved in distilled water, can i add baking soda to alkalize it? will it work?

opps i saw other video, it will not work because it will take out the copper ions as copper carbonate precipitations

@@HereNow2226 unfortunately alkaline formulae are complex (some use cyanide) . It"s not only a pH problem. If you want a copper finish with a steel part first nickel plate then copper plate (both are acidic and simple and you don't need a thick layer of nickel). Or buy a alkaline copper just to plate a fine layer of copper on steel then a more thiker layer with an acidic copper bath. In industries they get rid of a copper (acidic and alkaline) then a nickel layer and a chrome (because of environnemental problem with the alkaline bath) : they use a double or a triple nickel and then finish with a chrome plating

Oh , the good thing is we can always DIY it👌

@@Simple.Crafts DIY forever. Nice videos btw!!!

Move to the USA where EVERYTHING is legal!!!!

CuSO4 is not illegal

@@rickrolls4928 moving to USA is illegal! 🤣🤣🤣

it's all about amperage. high current would kill your solution. use 1 or 2 tsps of toilet cleaner in your mix for better result but use it in a well ventilated room. and also reduce the amount of salt you use. keep me updated pls.