!!! UPDATE !!! !!! WARNING !!! The C-clip holding the field coil on came loose and caused serious damage to the compressor. Watch the followup video before you try this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q5nu26eOmO4.html
Same here, I couldn't agree more. As a father of two daughters and finding myself looking for garage solutions to everyday problems in our vehicles, this young man gives me hope in our country's future. Thanks for the video, hope and pray there are many more like you out there. America's next gen needs you. God bless
Link in the description, but check out my followup video. After having this one not work out very well I would look elsewhere or at the very least use the original C-clip not the new one that comes with it
Great work here. Awesome presentation. I can see the bike battery is very dear. They are def handy for a lot. Ive done this job before and its not fun when the clutches need special tools to take them off due to threaded on clutch. But thanks to your write up here that isnt really a difficulty here. Just need c clip tool. The tip to test the field coil connector and nevermind the relay gets another thumb up. U rock bruh.
I think going to check the easier steps, relay/ fuse/ and connectors, hopping these take care my problem, any way your video I believe it's very good but if the problem is the compressor I won't be able to do it looks for me a little complicated. Thanks for the video
Excellent video. Here's a hint to make the clutch friction plate last much longer: Engage the A/C when the engine revs are low. In my manual shift cars I would push down the clutch pedal so that the engine would drop to idle or in an automatic, engage the A/C when at a stop sign. This way the RPM mismatch would be low between the A/C clutch plate surfaces.
Bro your videos are holy grail material, thank you for the information and all the detail you put into your videos to explain things. Keep up the amazing work 👍👍
Just did the compressor clutch job yesterday and the exact same thing happened on my test ride today. Tomorrow, I’ll be climbing back under the car and having a look to see if the body of the compressor is all reamed out like yours. Ugh. I live in upstate NY and everything is rusty and a challenge. That clip holding in the field coil was rusted in, making its removal quite challenging. Took me hrs to get everything apart. Tofay, I heard a rattling sound and opened the hood and alas, the field coil was spinning, wires clanking around. Bummer. Thanks for sharing all of this content!
I’ve never seen it happen, but I guess everything wears out eventually. Hopefully you can get it replaced cheap, or just a block of wood screwed on could work.
Great video, I still collating with my 2004 Corolla, actually was going to evacuate the freon yesterday only to discover I need a coupler adaptor for the recovery machine which was insanely expensive and it is beyond me why they do not included one there, after not finding it at home depot and harbor freight, ordered amazon and comes Monday, so in my case AC was running hot, system seems to have charge, OEM compressor tested good with battery and so the relay as well, I have all parts related to the AC so since car has near 140000 miles with 2 engine jobs prior I think maintenance replacement would extend parts life, so recovering and adding new freon later on, engine is still out of the bay in my garage almost ready to go in but now beside this I saw a video about timing chain on this engine which convinced me I did my timing wrong as I have a hair off the marks and left it like that advised by a dealer mechanic, I have been all these years wondering if I should re do it again before dropping the engine and this video is pulling me in that direction, in my case it should be a couple hours correction job but better sage than sorry, when I did my timing there were no videos how to do it properly only one from Peter Fin the self proclaimed car doctor but I have my reserves on his ways, so here we are still struggling with that corolla, my daughter got her DL 3 days ago and car still not ready, it has been out only 3+ years!😂
Hello again and thank you for the comment! It would be interesting if you could measure the recovered refrigerant to see how it compares to the correct fill amount, like you said in another comment. Then you would know for sure if there is a leak or not, although since you have some pressure still in the system after many years, if there is a leak it is very slow. I do not have a set of AC gauges myself, or a recovery vacuum machine. I usually only buy tools as I need them, and I have not needed to work on refrigerant yet, but it is interesting to hear about your experiences. Did you do the first timing job while the engine has been out the last few years, or when you were still driving it? I’d think you would notice immediately if the timing was off even one tooth, and the computer might throw a code. When I did the head gasket on my Prius the timing chain had sets of orange links that would line up with the marks on the three gears (crank & cams). This made it very easy to get the timing right, but I did have to rotate the engine many times before taking the chain off to get it to the correct position where they all aligned. Then I just put it back the same way and it worked.
@@BrenoAutoGarage It is possible to measure exact freon recovered as I also have the scale, tank is zeroed as it weight 16.2 pounds empty. As soon as I het the couplers I am missing for hose adapters this will be done. Timing was done with engine out, I just did it again correcting my first try, got the marks align now trying not to lose alignment once torquing the pulley, took pics and went to dealer to confirm I am right this time, I thought better safe than sorry and took on taking it apart. Feel little more confident now, lets see if the timing holds; the manual is horribly confusing as far as directions goes and there is a lot missing
@@BrenoAutoGarage It went well, did it yesterday having the tank zeroed on the scale I recovered only 8 ounces, system suppose to have 1.2 pounds; disconnected the lines checked the seals they seem fine they will get replaced. I am finishing taking apart the dashboard bars so I can get the evaporator out, since I have a replacement I will do that, instead of flushing the system; so evaporator, condenser, compressor, seals will be new and system will be charged new freon; the one in the tank will take for recycling. The taking of the part where the heather core and the evaporator is it is a real PITA but I am already almost there so why not?
