@@RotarySMP Bambu Lab P1p Had a Qidi Tech first (Clough42 gave a possitive review) but I had to send it back, because it didn't work. Wouldn't even load a software update. The Bambu Lab is great. I van recommend it.
On some inexpensive vises (cheap) the frame of the vise is not the best cast iron. So when you tighten them it flexes the whole body of the vise. That is what’s causing you problem with the vise. You can test this by putting you indicator on the moving jaw side of your part or on the vise itself. With the part just snug but not tight in the vise. Then tighten the vise. You will see the movement. If you must use the vise whet you can do is tighten it to make your roughing cuts. Then losen and just tighten it lightly just enough to hold the part for the finish cuts. You may need to program with this in mind separating your finish cuts. Another thing that can help is to put more clamps on the base of the vise trying to use the table to increase the vises strength.
Just a heads up: FreeCAD's 'Path' workbench has been renamed to 'CAM' in dev (and therefore the next release). I think it has also gotten a bit of love.
It’s not magic, it’s just common sense and practical machining techniques that achieve the desired results. Always enjoy your content my friend. Very well executed. Loved it !
Good stuff, that was great fun. This is like Bear Grils, but in a home machine shop. So many adventures in one video! Next week, see Mark drink his own coolant to survive.
Never machined a thing in my life, dont expect to. Love the channel, love the honesty and the perfectly imperfect nature of it all. Keep it up big fella.
Nice progress. 👍 measuring between pins like that is one of the many uses for gage blocks .tedious yes, but don't forget that a caliper is =/- .025mm at best.
@@RotarySMP besides it's always good to check calipers, micrometers, etc against the gauge blocks once and a while. Side storey.. a few year ago we sent out a brand new starrett caliper and a cheap house brand Canadian Tire caliper for calibration the cheap one passed and the starrett failed.
@@steveggca I notice that the twenty year old chinese one uses less battery, and is about as accurate as the Mitutoyo, but is slightly less rigid, so you see more spring in the frame and need more consistant feel.
I was sitting like “I’m sure I have seen him using gauge blocks on this channel in the past.” 🤔 Great results and an extra thank you for everything Maho related. (Still haven’t managed to get my hydraulics to latch on…and no faults found in any E-stop chain. Builds pressure though. That goes away almost in an instant. No fluid mess to indicate a leak. New check valve at the solenoid/valve block. 🤷♂️)
@@andli461 On my conversion, I don't have it wired to hold hyd Px. I just have it run the pump and build up Px when I push the tool change button. Since I dont have an ATC, I dont see much point having it run the pump regularly.
The solution to overspray is stop spraying and use a roller! I stopped spraying machine tools years ago as it's such a pita and the finish with a foam roller is almost as good. Actually, the finish is more approapriate in many ways - slight orange peel much like the original finish. It's all down to the preparation of course. I also use a synthetic white spirit based enamel which is extremely hard wearing and only requires one coat. With a high zinc content the paint can also go over bare metal which means if you rub through the primer on your prep the paint is going to adhere nicely. Still spraying motorcycle parts with 2K though - rollers' just not good enough for automotive.
Interesting - what is white spirit based enamel? I only knew about alkyd base enamels. I too am a big proponent of either brushing or rolling paint on Machine Tools - can't see the advantage in spraying 2K paints on stuff that will only work indoors.. Thanks!
I don't use 2K paints, as I don't want that stuff in my lungs, if I dont get a perfect seal on my cartridge mask. I have never had any success rolling on a compound curved surface like that vise.
@@mauromalvezzi534 I'm in the UK and use Johnstone's Smooth Metal Paint - it's a synthetic enamel with a high zinc content. If you take a look at my video series on adjusting Schaublin 102 bearings you'll see the finished machine in the last video.
@@RotarySMP It's really very easy to paint surfaces that are just about any profile. You do need to start with a brush to get into the crevices, but use a sponge roller with a feather edge (concave end) and you won't have any problems. Take a look at the lathe shown in my series on Schaublin 70 and 102 bearing adjustment - the finish is extremely good but dependent on careful preparation of course. A 2K primer-filler can be heavily brush applied before sanding. I agree about 2K being nasty, but applying by brush and wet sanding avoids most of the risk - always wear a good mask of course.
The width measurement wasn't dependent on the depth, you could have just skimmed the top. The depth should either be a hair under or a hair over the depth of the dovetails on the toolpost, depending on the which is the intended clamping face. Most setups use the face of the dovetail so the toolholders would be a hair shallower.
I'm sure you've done the same searches, and discovered the same thing as me. Anyway; EVERY commercial dovetail cutter uses the diamond shaped inserts. EVERY DIY dovetail cutter on youtube uses the triangular inserts
@@RotarySMP The only two commercial DT cutters I found: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XpUDM0NCOlI.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oN6VkzKwMUc.html
When using a triangular shaped insert to cut a 60 degree dovetail, doesn't the bottom of the insert rub on the "floor" of the cut? Perhaps that is not a problem?
I have a couple of videos on that... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YUraT1x4AtE.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-81YGImT-mkI.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H8j0oT50DyE.html I dont cast very often, just when I get the urge. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ba8T-AgilCM.html
Yes Brendan. Not often, but I have a foundry set up in the garden shed. I have a playlist on casting... ru-vid.com/group/PLHRtJd1bD3ITm_OPiV2CvW46Hf6luHMJ1
You'll notice some places where you don't realize how religious about the mathematics some guys are. That dovetail insert, I assume is one of them. They guy who wrote the book copied the book tat the guy who made the carbide and then the guy who made the tool post simply assumed the only way to do it was to copy the book. And there you are trying to figure out how to get your part to fit the machinist religion. You'll notice the same thing in electronics...only booby trapped sometimes. If you see a transistor that has a little spot of paint on it, look out, because that is what all of the technical jargon leads up to. Transistors have surprisingly few variations within a manufacturers batch but for all practical purposes the could just have a different part number for every batch. The only odd exception is when you stick to the book that doesn't allow your having any say in the adjustment. For instance if you were to design something with a volume control and then decide that it is cheaper to just replace the volume control with two resistors. Take potentiometer out, measure where you like the setting, select those to resistors and solder it in. What you did was you just resigned the device so that it is no longer field repairable. The only way anyone can replace any part in it is with the parts that come from your part bin. Taking that "religion" into account, yours being an aircraft mechanic, let's do a bit of underwriting for a moment. HOW MANY UNDERWRITERS DOES IT TAKE TO SCREW IN A LIGHT BULB IN A 480V MACHINE? Ok now, take your ohm meter and a bit of that coolant from your machine's sump and lets measure exactly how many underwriters it would take.
The Livestream is watchable, they are just not stored in the Video tab but under "Live" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yoel95vq1TU.html
I got caught out by the too-deep thing with the first quick-change tool holders I made, and I won't make that mistake again when cutting dovetails. Doesn't that cutter look special when it's spinning fast in your fast-forwarded sections. 👍
I have no experience with that CNC but with the 24 volt down it was swinging back and forth chasing a M19. Probably has a switch in the spindle somewhere for the index of the spindle. No 24 volt no switch signal. Surprising there was no alarm for it.
The gearbox shifting software was written by a friend of mine, based on a spec from me github.com/jin-eld/mh400e-linuxcnc/wiki I didn't spec this case.
@@RotarySMP Oh I wasn't aware it had a custom control. I thought the Knock out cycle might have been one used for a machine with an optional tool change. Pretty easy fix if you wanted to just add a 24 volt relay into the feed hold circuit. 99% of cnc's will turn the 24volt on the moment the E stop is released. So it would power up the same. Just go into feed hold if you lost the 24 volts.
@@dazaspc The Maho is a mix of original wiring and my conversion to LinuxCNC. I have never had that CB trip before, and will just keep an eye on it for now. There are three 24V rails. One is always on, and two drop with E-Stop. I much have the twitching relays on one, and the gearbox shifters on another.
For every other machine I’d be with you but the Deckel/Maho machines are so monolithic and stiff that it doesnt really make a difference because of the gigantic foot. You can probably hang one of these machines on a bar from a crane and still get accurate results.
@@Narwaro I am still planning to put it onto a raised weldment base, so I can always get the pallet jack under it, but have it sit on vib damping feet. I really like them.
Another great video. You showed brake disks that you use for casting. Do you need to add ferrosilicon to reduce problems with chill and hard spots in your castings?
I haven't dont that much, but with thick sections, it works fine as long as the casting cools slowly in the mold. I have not been able to source ferrosilicon (at least less than a ton at a time :)
@@RotarySMP That is good to hear. I cannot find it in small quantities either. I saw that luckygen1001 (was he one of your recommendations?) seemed to use it a lot.
I did get shown the livestream, but didn't bother watching, i'll bet that your average viewer won't watch livestreams even if they're presented with it.
Hello Mark, I’m still impressed with the shop made dovetail cutter. Maybe more so, now with the upgrades! 👍 Respect for Mrs. Rotary’s tulip rule. I have a similar policy surrounding the daffodils.
