CORROSEAL Rust Converter - Does it Hold Up On Its Own? Tests and Results! 4 year review! Stop Rust? 

The rust converter is not intended to be a top coating it's intended to be a primer. You need to topcoat it with paint to seal it.

From my understanding you are NOT supposed to remove the rust on the metal being the Corroseal reacts with the rust and creates the barrier with the rust acting as the catylist to some degree. Sanding things down to bare metal defeated your purpose. Protecting bare metal is not what Corroseal was made to do.

Did you try applying a top coat like the instructions say? It's my understanding that rust converters, convert rust but do not stop new rust from forming thus the need for a top coat.

This kind of review is extremely helpful for us DIYers who want to know what products actually work. Thank you so much for posting this!

I had a hideous rusty truck bed tool box. I wire brushed the rust. I sanded the good paint. I applied 2 coats of corroseal to the rust. I spray painted entire tool box with 2 wet coats the next day. The adhesion on the corroseal was excellent. The tool box looks excellent 3 years later.

I disagree, I've used corroseal for years on different applications. Used it on my truck and jeep frame. Used as per instruction, remove all flakey rust, degrease the rusty object. Use multiple coats if necessary, acts as a primer. And I usually paint over with some industrial paint, preferably glossy. Havent had an issue. Also dont put un used corroseal back in bottle it contaminates the product. And this is from Canada with our winters and salt...

Brother I think your issues here, as I witnessed when you did the extensive testing on the flat bar, is that you likely spray on top of the corroseal before it is completely dry. When you did the rust over clean and rust over corroseal tests, it's evident that there were areas of the corroseal coating that were still globbed up and wet. Wait for the stuff to fully dry out, and absolutely use a top coat.

Well numer one your rust is coming from behind the body panel well not the rust but the moisture that is causing the rust it’s not really made for body work it’s for frames even under your car it’s still body work you do not have a frame you have a unibody the converter needs to go all the way around the metal even your teat strip was flawed or set up to fail you only put one coat of converter on it needs to encapsulate the piece you are converting On the hood the moisture is coming from inside the seam from behind of course it’s going to rust you should prolly do some research into a product I have many a piece of equipment and trucks that the frames have been treated with rust converter then painted with a oil based paint there not a product made that will stop rust the way you asked it to perform but what do I know right I’m just a dumb farmer with rust free tractor and truck frames

Hello! In this video, the intention of the test was to show how Corroseal holds up on its own. I have received several comments, and am well aware, that Corroseal is a primer, and should have a top coat of paint. I am currently running a test over the winter. I have applied Corroseal to half of a rusty bar, and Corroseal plus a topcoat of paint to the other half of a rusty bar. The bar is zip-tied under my car for the winter. I will post the results video in the spring! UPDATE: New 7 Month Vehicle Frame Test Video: Clear Paint, to see if Corroseal is holding up under the paint! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pHeHN5h4l6I.html

I have also tried several tests with products on my vehicles. The rust converter I've used is from Loctite. I have had admiral results with it over many years. I own a 1978 F 250 4x4, which I purchased new. I've used this process on the front fenders in the wear areas from long ago fender flare wear lines. To this day I have no rust on these fenders where I used this process. But I did coat with paint after the Loctite rust converter was applied. My truck is used in the winter with salt on the roads and has never been in a garage. It's 43 yrs old now and I'm happy it still is in nice condition. However ! , I am currently on my 3 truck bed. Each lasted about 20 years. Good luck and thanks for your info.

Hey I think it should only be used on tight surface rust if your not going to take down to fresh clean metal. You usually clean and prime metal with a etching agent prior to priming or painting.

So the moral of the story is that rust always wins.

5 days ago, I finished applying 2-3 coats of Corroseal to my frame. I had previously knocked off as much rust as possible, and sanded the frame. Some spots were shiny metal, but most still had rust. The Corroseal turned black, just like the instructions said it would. 2 days after, I sprayed painted the entire frame with POR-15 Top Coat. It's been raining here for about 4 days straight, and I brought the truck in to work on another part. I was shocked to see that the entire frame has what looks like brown dots of rust. I was able to wipe it away, as it was still wet. Wet, mostly from condensation. The rain is not directly coming down on the frame. It only took 5 days for the rust start showing up. I don't think this stuff works at all.

I used coreseal and capped it with boiled linseed oil I'll see how it holds up

Bummer. I just bought a gallon of Corroseal to use as a rust converter, prep for a big project below...now I'm having second thoughts. Have you tried POR-15? I have a steel geothermal soaking tub with a concrete floor. I used it as a rust stabilizer/primer about 8 years ago before shooting the interior with UPOL Raptor urethane bed liner. I just stripped everything down to bare metal and concrete, and while there is a fair bit of rust, it did last for several years. Keep in mind these surfaces have been submerged the entire time in water ranging from 100 to 120 degrees (only when I accidentally leave the valve open too far and forget to reduce the flow). I'm coating everything with 10-15 mils of Pond Armor, a 2-part epoxy liner. POR-15 is intense and has some health and environmental hazards. Since I'm covering a large area, I thought I'd give Corroseal a try. We'll see. As an aside, I used a liberal coating (@2gal) of Citristrip and covered the wet surfaces with plastic sheeting for 24 hours. While it took some time, I was able to remove 90% of the bed liner and POR-15 from the steel using a scraper, and finishing up with 60 grit and a steel cup brush on my angle grinder.

I also have had the same experience as you ,rust comes right back no matter how many coats or how much prep! I am in Western Pa where road salt and brine are put down so heavy you can hear your frame rusting on a good night! I have had just as good of luck with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer as anything I ve ever used.If you put it on heavy and brush it in it does help slow rust down . I now use a product from Berkebile Oil Company in Somerset,Pa.It is called PFC ,(Protection First Class),it is a blend of Lanolin Based ,Rock Wool type product .Their salesman showed me tests of their frames on the sales fleets vehicles and I was impressed . I think you would like it.I spray my pinch welds and rockers and my frame . It creeps nicely and seems to stay on better than fluid films. I saw tests on the WD 40 product you are going to try also . You can get a gallon of PFC and a spray gun package for around 100 bucks.I am going to go that route.I have used over a dozen cans and love it .The small cans cost adds up quickly .

Use Hammerite paint on top of the CORROSEAL treated surfaces, it works for me.

Wear protective equipment. Respirator, gloves and cover your skin. Especially a respirator, dust from rust removal is bad news. Also if you're spraying Corroseal instead of using a brush it can discolor your skin. It takes weeks to for the discoloration to fade. So cover up. This information is brought to you by the school of life. If you're spraying, avoid getting Corroseal on sensors, wiring, rubber bushing and plastics. Just wrap with newspaper. If it gets on there it's not the end of the world, just not a good idea long term to keep exposing it. 1. Remove loose rust flakes with a wire brush. Wire wheel on a drill or hand brush, whatever you have. 2. Wash all contaminants off the frame (Or body). Oil, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, even wax and soap residue etc. 2a. Blow off excess beaded water with air gun. Let it completely dry for a couple hours with a fan. Allowing all those nooks and seams to dry is important. 3. Apply Corroseal in a thick coat with a brush or spray it on. (I use a $20 pneumatic spray gun from Harbor Freight to spray it on. Much faster than brushing it.) 4. Here is a hint using Corroseal. Multiple coats. The process of converting rust takes longer than the drying time. So using a spray gun to apply another layer before it's completely dry is going to allow it to soak in and get all that hard to reach rust. The more rust you convert the longer it takes for it to return. So put on a few coats, even if you're using a brush. Once you coat the whole job go back and coat it again. Even a third time if you want. 5. Now apply whatever sealer you use. Whether it's paint, bar and chain oil, or another thin film product. The name Corro"seal" denotes that it is a sealer, but they should have named it Corro"converter". It's a great rust converter, not so much a long lasting sealer. It WILL rust again and you have to do it again and again. But if used in conjunction with paint or undercoating it works great. What Corroseal does is take a majority of the elbow grease out of restoring the metal, instead of hours of sanding and grinding. You don't need to grind the frame down to bare metal and get all the pitted rust off. Just spray on Corroseal then let it sit and do it's job. Corrseal works great as a base for other sealers. It leaves a rough texture on the metal like etching. Wipe off excess dust with a dry towel and it takes paint great. EDIT. The best case scenario is to use Corroseal to convert the rust, then paint it with glossy paint, then use a thin seal product or oil coat. I use bar and chain oil. On vehicles used in the Northeast over 15 years I've only needed to Corroseal them twice. Then I spray every other year with bar and chain oil. The undercarriages look great. Warning though, bar and chain oil smells like bar and chain oil. So it smells and drips a little for a few days. So if you don't like stains in the driveway, use one of those thin coat sprays. But I have lots of bar and chain oil so that's what I use. It's cheap. Don't get any of the above chemicals on the exhaust. At best it'll smoke at worst you'll have a fire.

Rust ocnverters dont penetatre the rust deep enough, almost as bad as painting a rusty metal, you will get bubble rust in no time. I prefer just stripped as many rust as possible (combionation of rust remover and wheel wire brush) and used rust converter to finished them off.

doesn't it say on the label that corroseal isn't intended for clean metal and is only a converter of rust....there must be rust for a conversion to take place....lot of good examples of longer term samples.....yes i used to swear by it but it isn't as permanent as they want us to believe, for sure....whats the better suggestion out there?

Low aptitude, change it as well the process of applying this product. This prodict works. I attest to it.

I have used Corroseal for so many projects... everything from rusty door hinges, wheelbarrows, outdoor furniture, fencing, and of course automotive applications. It is the MOST AMAZING PRODUCT I have ever used. I spent $16 on a 32oz bottle about 10 years ago & I still have about 12oz left!!!! IMPORTANT TIP: DO NOT STORE anywhere that will get HOT, like a GARAGE or SHED. The material at the bottom of the bottle will rubberize & you will lose product.

Aw man. You dragged the rust over to the clean side. Should’ve painted the clean metal first.

So are you just corrosealing ....or are you putting the required paint coat on top of it?....I did mine and painted it as required and still solid no rust comes back

Thanks for your review. You just saved me some $.

I have watched many videos on this product. I think your issue is that you are supposed to coat with this product 3X.

who pours vinegar on their vehicle after putting rush corrosion on it? THIS IS NOT A REAL WORLD REVIEW, your opinion is crap. the "test" on your vehicle did not show your process or give any idea as to if you may have screwed up or skewed the results in any way.. thumbs down.... no sub.

If it doesn't work use a rust converter not a primer then seal with a polyurethane not a latex Then wool wax

use as primer only. paint over as directions say.

Thanks for sharing the results.

I've used Corroseal& follow directions,it works fine.Northeast salt belt.

The speed of rust showing up was kinda scarey. I think the instructions talk of 2 coats, and letting it cure for 48 hours. I put a single super thick coating on my vw bug inside floor pan that had years of heavy rusting, with 1/3 of it rusted away to nothing on the passenger side.

I work on a tugboat and this stuff is a waist of time. I’ve been doing RU-vid research and found a video where the guy test corroseal, ospho, rust kutter and several other products. Corroseal wasn’t even in the top 5. Rust kutter won and ospho was 3rd. I’m trying to get my company to switch to rust kutter.

Use blaster.They make a rust pervasive (Blaster) spray can at Harbourfrightfor about $10.00 A can. Spry on man?

Countless of people try to winn over the rust,but none of them sucsess.

Your test is inconclusive since it's a primer Your supposed to paint it after priming

Mistake u did is u should have allowed cure time of 48 hrs. Then its set

Who you trying to fool? You can tell on the vehicles. There was no Corroseal put on them. Your just trying to make click bait videos!

You did not address whether corroseal protected from rust better than nothing. Of course it's still going to rust. But perhaps it lasts longer with corroseal? Now get back out there and make a true comparison.

I would believe once you use corroseal and it’s dry a topcoat of paint would protect the area better.

Totally incorrect use and expectation. Corroseal is a rust converter. Not a rust preventer. Not a bare metal primer. Should also be topcoated.

To use correctly, those latex/phosporic acid rust converters are only used to wirebrushed or sandblasted, clean-looking metal to prevent small pits of rust starting to grow. Even then, the metal must not be rusted through at all, or else the rust gets oxygen that way. For example, a lightly rusted car surface should be cleaned to look rust free, then the converter applied and allowed to dry completely, cleaned again to bare metal, primered with rust preventing primer, and painted. On the inside/other side, rust preventing spray applied to prevent possible rust pores that go through the sheetmetal to allow oxygen go through. Any rust that has formed layers is not treatable with converters, only way to slow that rust down is to thin atf with solvent, soak the area inside and out, and after few days, use rustproofing spray to form an oily/wax-like surface to prevent the atf from being washed away. And that only slows the rusting process down for some time. "Rust never sleeps..."

How about rust bullet? Any thoughts? I have a 2015 and looking for good protection.

maybe the brake didnt resist the heat?? some heat resistant paint maybe?

There's also a better one called RUST SERGANT R.C.M.P. Kinda pricey but works

How did the WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor work?

Thank you so much for the content. I'm sure many of us appreciate when someone does the testing and review the product for us so we can see how it works. That's actually why I clicked on it, right? So please don't take my next part of the comment as me boo booing your video. However, I have purchased CORROSEAL before and let it sit for a very long time without using it or maybe dipped my brush into it and contaminated it and it turned into a more liquid and not as white substance. I noticed immediately in your video that the product you were applying looked a lot like mine once it was no longer good. Just wanted to point that out for the sake of the experiment because when CORROSEAL is in good condition, the consistency is almost like Elmer's Glue, and with that being said, it may be that the product was not able to perform as intended in this testing.

Dude the narration is hilarious. He sounds sad the whole time because he has been using the same product that doesn’t work after years. 😂

Well. Scratch another "wonder" product for my old truck frame. Thanks for the review.

I’ve used Corroseal on several truck frames over the years. It must be coated. Enamel paint is lousy. I use 3M undercoating. Lats great.

you need epoxy over new metal not this phosphate rust repair

Very helpful. Your stated intent was to show how this stuff holds up on its own- and that’s exactly what you did as far as I can see. The manufacturer says in it’s advertising that “ Corroseal Rust Converter converts rust (iron oxide) into a stable substance, magnetite. It also primes the surface with a high quality latex metal primer at the same time. Corroseal truly provides one step corrosion control” . I for one have been curious just how that claim held up and you answered that. Certainly additional coatings, preservers, or different methods might improve finish longevity but that wasn’t what you were testing. Keep the realistic and honest testing coming, I certainly appreciate it

Thanks for your thorough video. I agree with your own assessment of Corroseal, after using it and having it fail spectacularly. About 3 years ago I started making original light fixtures as a side gig / hobby, many out of rusted scrap steel. Any parts requiring new steel were rusted intentionally by using a vinegar / peroxide mix, so that they matched the others. I was looking for a rustic black finish, like old wrought iron. I therefore removed all loose rust, and after much research, decided on Corroseal as a rust converter/primer, topped with 4 coats of Rust-Oleum 2x matte black paint. All were applied according to manufacturer recommendations with regard to time, temperature, etc. I did notice early on that the Corroseal seemed to chip fairly easily, as I had to recoat a couple of tiny spots where I accidentally tapped it with a tool etc while working on the fixtures. I should have thought more about that when it happened, but the product had such a good reputation etc that I figured I would be okay. Around the same time I made a fixture using similar techniques, but wanted the final finish to be rusty. I therefore removed all the loose surface rust and simply used 4 coats of the Rust-Oleum 2x matte clear coat. In other words, the same paint as the black, except in clear. Life has been kind of tough over the last two years, so I didn't really push to sell those completed fixtures. It turns out that was fortunate. About a month ago I sold my house and moved. When I did, I took a moment to admire my fixtures, which had been carefully sitting in boxes, in a fully air conditioned occupied house. To my dismay, EVERY single surface on which Corroseal had been used was covered in tiny dots of powdery rust breaking through the finish. They were not related to any previous chips or other damage, but were everywhere. I then looked at a test sample of steel which I had used for activating rust. After determining the best method for making them rust, I had prepped them and coated them in the exact same manner as the black fixtures. All pieces of the sample steel were rusted just as the fixtures were. After that I examined the intentionally rust-finish fixture, the one which only had 4 coats of Rust-Oleum clear coat on it. No breakthrough rust was visible, but since the underlying surface itself was rust, I wanted to make sure. I rubbed it all over with a piece of white paper towel, then examined the towel for any trace of color. There was absolutely none. In spite of being covered in rust to start with, the Rust-Oleum clear coat alone had done its job, and the fixture looked exactly as it did when I finished it. To put it mildly, I am extremely disappointed in Corroseal. I now face the tedious task of disassembling every fixture I made using this crap, stripping them down to bare metal, and completely refinishing them. For me, Corroseal utterly failed in every way, and I will never use it again.

They the same test after you paint it...

The directions say to stir . Do not shake

Maybe putting on 3 heavy coats on it would solve your problems...

Same, Corroseal only surface converts rust so it is useless under frame since it doesn't penetrate.

I'm not one for these rust converters, but this stuff needs to be topcoated with paint. The converted finish is not waterproof, it's absorbent; which it has to be for good adhesion to paint. Try primer and paint after using this product and then conduct these same tests; would be very interesting seeing the results.

Bueler? Bueler?

If you top-coated that with a quality paint underneath and some fluid film on top it would look like new.

Dude sounds like Joe Pera lol

Yes in SALTVILLE USA

Dude there’s a spooky skull face in the corroseal on clean portion.

Works the product good when the are to steel plates together too, fore exsample doorpanels

I feel an issue you may be having is you are grinding down the rust on your hood and frame. How can a rust converter convert rust that’s not there? From what I’ve gathered this works the best being applied to actual rust not a non rusted surface. I feel if you’re going to remove the rust there probably is another product better suited for non rusted surfaces and rust prevention. I feel rust prevention and rust conversion are 2 diff topics. I did enjoy your video tho. It was informative

You just depressed the shit out of me. I have corraseal and was about to do my whole truck with it and then paint it with oil based tractor supply paint. Looks like that won't do either. Thanks for the vid man.

Good video. I also tried this stuff. Bottom line is it doesn't work very good! A good rust primer then good thick top coat of paint is way better. Don't waste your time with this latex stuff.

ITS MORE OF A PRIMER.. RUST SHOULD BE REMOVED, PRIMED/CONVERTED THEN PAINTED AND THEN UNDERCOATED... YOU CAN SPRAY THE UNDERCOATED 1 OR TWO YEARS

Actually using peroxide and vinegar isn't a very good comparison to real world conditions. Just because this didn't hold up is meaningless. Not saying the product is good or not but not a fair test.

Hmm- I wonder if after adding the corroseal, if adding a rubber spray coat of the corrosral would protect more?

Good test review. I believe Corroseal will work well in Southern states that don't use salt or chemicals on the roads on an annual basis.

I've used this, its ok ish. It claims to be able to be left uncovered and will last up to a year before breakthrough but testing it I'm getting breakthrough in a couple of weeks even after 4 coats.

Thanks for letting see the results. Did you try anything that worked, por 15 maybe? What would stop control arm rust on an Impala people? Ah the north... Nice summers to (try to)fix the winters rust.

Corroseal is used on semi truck frames and trailers, if it is good enough for an industry that operates in all weather conditions, it's more than good for DIYers

Try final coating with spray cosmoline

I did notice your tested metal was contaminated when you brushed it on left to right. You actually brushed the rust back on it.

This product is junk, two months and my truck frame was bleeding rust. Applied exactly as directed.

Thanks for your review… you just save me from lots of hours of elbow grease.

In other words, rust is here to stay and - aside from living in the desert - there is nothing we can do to stop it.

Your should try Fluid Film or PB Blaster Surface Shield. I have seen reviews on them. People have added pretty good results. Check them out.

Do you think that is you haven't done the coating that maybe the rust would have been worse? Just wondering.

Have you found a better solution? I just used Ospho to remove and convert my rust after using a grinding wheel. I'm considering covering it with Cosmoline RP-342 Black Rust Preventive Spray (Military-Grade).

I’m interested in the video thanks for making it I was actually going to try this it was between this and the Skyzone osphos or something like that the green bottle I’m gonna try that and I’ll let you know

After you use the course seal, did you spray your frame down with the oil or any sort of undercoat?

CRC

Thanks for posting, I really appreciate the level of detail you went into here

If it’s brown doesn’t that mean that the substance has been contaminated with chemicals?

Not very scientific and not put on according to manufacturer's instructions.

Top coat with RP342

This stuff just looks like a rust converter rather than a sealer, after using it try using a wax oil or some other sealer on top of it and see how it gets on.

THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP!!! Almost bought a gallon😮 I’m trying to compare this with POR 15, I’ve used previously on a wheel well. I’ll stick with that

When you weld metal, you have to sand it or send blast it and then etch it using acid etch primer or just acid treatment.

After using the corroseal let dry and coat it with epoxy primer (primer with harder added). I’ve had good luck with that. If it’s a frame op coat with por 15 or equal.

What type of brush do you use to brush of the rust? Is it stainless steal or does it contain other metals. Some metals contaminate steal, like Nickel. Which is prone to rust.

Just paint a good paint over it. Use ship paint.

Montreal Canada - I agree with the review - I had the same POOR results on my 2005 Xterra - Lots of rust and the Tremclad High gloss Rust paint came off - what a waste of effort.. Looked great the 2 months. A year later flakes, rust everywhere, repeat the same results. I even used Rust - Check oil to refresh and stop the rust -only this process slowed things down. After 4 years of effort and time, my Xterra looks like this video rust everywhere and 3 holes. Never use a POR or any Rust paint after any rust converter - It works very silently eating away the metal as you think all is OK. Using the hammer vibration test then you see the damage..Conclusion: CORROSEAL Rust Converter does NOT WORK !! Painting over CORROSEAL does even more damage. So again 2 days ( I hate you CORROSEAL; why I'm I doing this again!!) of removing all the surface flakes and rust with a scrapper, power wire brush, hammer, and then sprayed 6 cans of WD-40 ..After a few applications, it's penetrating into the metal.. I think this is a much much better strategy than CORROSEAL- The next step is to use a heavy-duty lubricant, dripless formula to protect the penetrating WD-40 .. I'm leaning towards RP-342 ..

Used the stuff myself, it really isn't worth the price

Use por 15

You put on your frame then didn't topcoat? Do you know how hot a brake drum gets 😆

Doesn’t this product oxidize rust. You need rust for it to work...