Pull the clip and pin on the end of the hydraulic cylinder and can be lifted up to make ease to clean debri from under. Takes 30 seconds. I purchased 3 racks as my 25 ton came with no rack. I recommend having two racks put together, holds more wood and more importantly will prevent big wood chunk from falling on top of motor and doing damage to it. I put another rack over the filter and have had big chunk fall and without rack it would have sheared off hydraulic filter and maybe even ruin the tank. Can use the fender mounting holes to add support to the rack. I also got the 4 way wedge and extended the side wedges from 2" to 5"
Put a 3/4” high pressure line between the pump and the directional control valve. You’ll find it runs better and splits faster. The pump will stay in the low pressure side of the pump before it goes into the high pressure side. An additional benefit is, my hydraulic fluid is now 140*. I did this with my 25-ton country pro which is the same as the county line 25-t. As you commented. They are all YTL international splitters.
A tip for making it easier to go to the vertical mode easier is to fully extend the cylinder ram. There is a lot of weight on the slide the wedge and the ram that moves over the pivot making the I beam much better balanced on the pivot.
The weld on engine mount won't crack the tank will, ask me how I know. The reason the engine ''jiggles'' is the tank is ''oil canning'', eventually you will notice an oil leak, where the tank cracked. If I had it to do over again I would stop and weld on the necessary re -enforcing. It would have saved me welding up the crack and pressure testing the tank. The tank is made of maybe 14ga sheet metal. So you have structural steel welded to sheet metal. The one I had the motor mount terminated in the middle of the bottom of the tank, the weakest part which is where it cracked. The fix was to weld 1/4 plate on three sides spreading out the stress and tying together all four corners of the tank. No more ''jiggles''. The bummer is the tank has to be drained and removed.
They sell oil pan bolts that have like a on and off switch. Or open and close. Get one of them and attach a hose to it before you open it. No fuse no muse
We have the 40t and made our own modifications, the 4 way wedge recomended is junk. The side ears are short and on medium to large stuff doesn't split. The wedge is short about 3/4" from plate that when doing stringy wood such as ash it doesn't separate. We welded a long ears on the wedge, had to reinforce the frame with 1/2" plate steel with gussets as welds broke . Now it is a spitting monster especially when doing 30+ diameter ash.
Nice video! I have had the same model for seven years now and I agree with all of your observations. I drag mine around with a sub-compact tractor using the three-point hitch to avoid having to lift the machine onto a ball, but that is a rather expensive accessory😉. Also, I STRONGLY recommend using a pickaroon to help position the log when splitting vertically; it will keep you off your knees trying to push 30” logs under that little wedge.
25 ton is a 4gal reservoir and the cylinder holds another gallon or so. The 30 ton is pushing past the point of safe operating temps on the hydraulic fluid based on the capacity of fluid and PSI it runs.. I dont know why these manufacturers started going to smaller reservoirs, with higher GPM pumps they should have either increased the hydraulic fluid amount or added a radiator to cool it. Higher temps equals shorter life of the hydraulics and more rebuilds, they are however wonderful splitters but they need a guard for the hydraulic lines on the operator side to protect from falling wood
Nice review, I added a trailer jack and also use a trailer dolly to move this beast of a machine, way to heavy to pickup and move around with the tounge.
@@deesandman9477 That’s the tank vent. If you are overfilled fluid could come out, or if you are not on level ground. Make sure that end of the tank isn’t downhill! I made that mistake once. Doesn’t take much slope for fluid to come out the vent when running if it’s on the downhill side.
Great review!! Well done with professional editing and commentary. I too was thinking a simple block of wood or a metal fab stopper to shorten the return stroke would greatly speed up cycle time. The only issue i see that would be hard to resolve is the slotted I beam design that creates debris to get stuck / jammed in under the cylinder. That would be an issue for sure. And i really liked how you explained how you could purchase the cradle as an accessory to add on if you went with the smaller models. i was wondering about that. Thanks again for the great info! It helped me alot!
Sept24th. 2023. Thanks for video. Do they have the log trays for both sides of 30 ton log splitter? Does it protect pump and lines from falling debris? Also is there something I can do to keep hydraulic fluid cool ? Thanks
Only one side for the tray. It would be in the operator position if on both sides. The pump is under the beam. The weak spot is where the hydraulic filter and connections are mounted. It's out toward the wheel on the side of the tank, without any protection. The engine is slightly vulnerable, but the log tray is on that side, and the engine is mounted forward of the splitting area. If you want to get fancy with hydraulic plumbing you could put something together to help it stay cooler. Overall, I think the 5 gallon reservoir and its surface area is enough cooling. Just know that everything (lines, cylinder) are going to be quite hot to the touch after working for a while.
Who owns CountyLine? These look identical to the Oregon Power Pro splitters. The log catchers, engine, cycle time...the only difference I can see is the paint job.
These engines have a ACR (automatic compression relief) for easy pulling. Try changing oil and pull engine up to top dead center. The OHV are not releasing the oil and will be rock hard. Let it sit for 10 minutes and try again. Can't run much past 8 hours of run time with out changing oil to prevent the valve issue.
Hello there. I have the same 30 ton with a 9.5 Kohler on it. I run 15w40 oil or straight 30 in it and have had an overheating problem twice now. The engine begins to miss erratically like it is running out of fuel, smells hot, and then shuts down. The fuel is not empty. This is in summer weather with temps running 80 degrees or so. The first time I think it was because I had the air intake housing turned to the "winter" position. turned it round and it started and ran fine the rest of the summer. Today at 80 degrees it done the same thing again with air intake in proper "summer" position. Thought it was out of fuel. Filled the tank with fresh gas. Rope pulls easy for about 10 inches and then locks up. Hope the piston and rings are ok & not seized or a valve burned and maybe stuck or bent. Did you ever find the cause of your problem? sound like same problem I am having? Any tips?
Also I only run at about 3/4 throttle especially on big wood like 30" Maple because these things seem to need better cooling for both the engine and the hydraulic fluid. The ram and fluid reservoir gets very hot,...spooky thing if a hose ever busts, you're toast. LOL.
I had mine and i haven't had any problem 's.Most just use them and don't take care of them or grease them running metal-to-metal doesn't last very long. And why would you want to pick up the wood when you can do it vertical, lot easier and less stress on the cylinder. And if you don't know how to keep your hands out of the way. Maybe you shouldn't use one.!!
Premium gas in 95% of stations is still 10% ethanol, that's the problem.. what you want is to find ethanol free gas, any octane will do, the lower the better. Then if you want to add stabilizer it'll last 3yrs or so vs the 6 months that stabilizer-added 10%E fuel will
Well it's apparent you have not run much equipment. Access to the engine oil drain plug couldn't be any easier. Please do not post if you're a newb. Ruins it for those looking to learn.
I got my 30 from TSC at $600 off because it would not start, was leaking hydraulic fluid, and the wheel bearings as usual HAD NO GREASE IN THEM AT ALL. Please don't bore us with any more videos. We can read the owners manual just fine. The Kohler 9.5 tends to overheat and so does the hydraulics when you really romp this rig. Keep the valves adjusted for easy starting.
