Hello Fabricators, Well it's after the shakedown run now. And there are a few things that I need to fix or address on Wratchet before his next run. In this video I give them some attention.
I have 930 cv’s and the clicking I was getting was actually the axle shafts bottoming out on the inside of the wheel stub axles. If you pull the axle shaft out, you’ll see the end of your shaft all rounded over. I fixed it by just centering the shaft between the two boots and tightening up the inside cv boot clamps to hold the shaft in that center spot. Worked so far. Might be something to check out on yours.
G'day, Another awesome video. I'm doing the same thing with my 63 bug. It's two steps forward and one back. Unless I get sidetracked, then it's four steps back. 😵💫 So thanks for sharing I'm looking forward to when your out on the tracks again and seeing the camera set on the suspension. ✌️ Peace.
I've always set up customers trucks to never bump lower than 5" of ground clearance. That usually gives you a good cushion for tire squish (1 1/2 is a decent guesstimation of how much they squish) and uneven surface! Also, may be worth a future upgrade to change the aluminum out for UHMW? Seems to be the go-to these days for skid plates since they will skid very easily but also retain its shape
5", wow, good to know. It's possible I was trying to push it to far by letting the chassis get so close to the ground. Thanks for the real world data. 👍
The clicking is a strange one, I know you will finger it out , I’m trying to remember the noise you had a couple years ago, I do know you figured it out, do you remember that one, catch you soon Mike😀😀
Hey Mike, I believe the noise you're remembering was the shocks on Mauler. On that I learned that if I charge them with nitrogen they get a lot quieter.
Not to be one of those guys but if you put a block on top of your control arm instead of pushing your stops down so far you should be better off. Plus you can make an angled block pretty easily if you’re still at a bad contact angle. I’m guessing she’s probably got a new pit of shoes by now but something to think of
The cv joints need to be clocked properly. I guess you have double-checked that Doug? My baja bug will do that clicking at max travel as well. Too much angle on the joints. I don't recall if you off road /race prepped yours, but if you haven't, then it would be a good idea. Finally, after having covered the aforementioned things, the only thing left to do is limit droop.I would recommend that you contact any of the numerous off-road shops out in the California area, too. Those guys out there on the west coast have dealt with this issue many times, so it is well understood by them. They can help, and would probably jump at the chance to help you out, especially if you would mention their shop on your channel. Lol.
I think the click is the sound of the torsion load basically bouncing back and forth. Similar to having too little preload in a differential. I think that’s why you hear it with the tire on, acting like a flywheel. I don’t think it’s hurting anything, just audible when it’s off the ground. I bet if you could drive it at full droop, there would be no clicking.
Hey Mike , how’s it going buddy, so if I’m getting this right will the suspension bottle out on the stop so the chassis won’t hit, what if the springs were strong enough to keep either from bottling out, don’t know if I told you I came out of retirement and went fishing again so I don’t get a lot of internet, hope everything has been good with you, you look like it has, catch you soon my friend 😀😀
Hey Mike, glad your having fun fishing. Yes the suspension bottoms on the bump stops. The springs aren't any where near strong enough to stop an impact like this. This needs to be slowed down by the shock oil, then stopped by the bump stop if it makes it that far.
Greetings Mike, Just wondering if that 2 1/2 difference between the tire at full compression and the chassis is enough because sometimes the dirt road is higher in the middle than the tire track. Also adjusting the coil over compression helps slow down the downward velocity before it hits the ground and probably helps your chassis from damage. I wish there are whoops at the track to see how Wratchet suspension handles compression and rebound at higher speed.
I envoy the channel and look fed to each. As far as the bump stop adjustment I think your doing what I would do but consider that when your out on the dirt track your not landing on flat floor but dirt that many others have landed on. So if there is any crown it will throw all the “ measurements “ from your nice flat floor out. But agree you need to start from a known standard. Good stuff keep it going. Enjoy your channel.
