I particularly enjoyed the edge covering you showed when covering the vertical stabilizer. It seems so obvious but I had not been using that technique! Thank You!
Dope is a sealer that you can use to glue down the tissue with and it's also used to seal the tissue. I don't like the smell of it so I use glue sticks to glue down the tissue and then clear Krylon to seal it.
Wow, my spell checker stabbed me in the back a year ago, here is the corrected version. Two types of dope, nitrate and butyrate. Nitrate shrinks less and will not distort a fragile frame. this stuff is probably as old as flying aircraft. Very volatile and some say toxic, I was always was happy covering model aircraft (because of the volatile odor). Use outdoors if you want to stayed married and healthier. I like to use a lit of thinner to make lighter models. I get small spray cans of Krylon from art supply stores for less than $3, hardware stores sell twice the size at more than twice the price. Just heard that Aqua Net hair spray works well. I build mostly Guillows kits for 40 years now. usually 12 to 36 inches, also Easy Built models of the same size.
Thanks for this. The materials and process used for tissue and willow construction is so lame. My spouse suggested that I watch this for ideas on how to do things quicker, better, faster. WIN.
The smell of airplane dope brings back great childhood memories for me too! Unfortunately the smell of airplane dope took away some of my brain cells and some of my childhood memories!
Great video, never thought of covering the edge on the stab like that. Unless its really difficult to get to I normally use an Ez-Cutter on the first surface, makes a neat cut with just about the right amount of tissue left to cover the edge, cheap as chips too :) Love the checkerboard tissue, Esaki (sp) right?
I have always hated working with model airplane dope; it stinks! I'm going to take your advice and try this out on one of my models soon. Thanks for sharing your idea.
Two types of Dove, nitrate and butyrate. Nitrate shrinks less and will not distort a fragile frame. this stuff is probably as old as flying aircraft. Very volatile and some say toxic, I was always was happy covering model aircraft. Use outdoors if you want to stayed married and healthier. I like to use a lit of thinner to make lighter models. I get small spray cans of Krypton from art supply stores for less than $3, hardware stores sell twice the size at more than twice the price.
Hi....Please tell me,where did you buy it,that glue stick pink cap!?...I only found uhu stick glue ,only for paper,fotos and foam!?!!!Yours is also for paper,foto and foam,or is different???? Have a good day,sir!
I guess my response is a bit late, but it might help out some other people here. The tissue people usually use for small models like this is called Esaki tissue, and you can buy it from Sig, Peck Polymers, and many other free flight/modelling supply companies. You can also use ordinary craft store "domestic" tissue, but this stuff is usually heavier, takes more dope to seal (making it heavier), and has very little wet strength
@crazyrcflyer I sell them in my online store. Visit the link at the bottom of the video. The scalpels are listed under tools. Glad you liked the video.
The type made by UHU is best, because it is alcohol based, and won't loosen when you wet the tissue to tighten it. Any other glue stick can be used, (except "repositionable" types, which don't harden) but you have to be careful to let it dry COMPLETELY and lightly mist with water.
Funny how ever video shows how to glue paper on balsa (an obvious step) but none shows the correct process of taking the wrinkles out. Having a hard time with this step. After gluing the paper, looks like everyone is applying water to shrink the paper. Not happening to me. Upon drying, the paper shows more wrinkled then before.
Mark did you ever work out the wrinkles ?I seam to be at the same place after applying water and letting dry still have wrinkles what's the trick you use
