I bought one of these units brand new decades ago (1990 or so) I've used it to run power tools, sand cars, paint cars, painted a couple of houses (with a pressure pot attached) and despite it's age, it's still going strong. It has earned it's keep many times over.
You should be able to run it on a 25-50’ ext. cord that is 12 Ga. They are good for 13-15 amps and I believe your comp is 13 amps. I used to be able to run mine like yours on a 14 Ga. cord when it was new and efficient but as it got old it was working a little harder and I switched to a 12 Ga. cord. Mine is around 18 yrs old and still pumping!
Frankie, please check your exhaust sponge foam muffler. Yours is missing, mine blew out, or burnt out the center of mine. Easy fix, make your own. My complaint if any is that it is loud. Sure you get used to it, but others don’t. Like you, great machine, and no other problems.
Great video thanks brother. I like the compressor. I really need to get a bigger one. I want a two stage but the price is not in my ball park. That's a great compressor glad you didn't burn it up you just got the cord. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
Have the 25 gallon, One problem I had is it completely ate the air filter, still runs fine bit your little filter there doesn't look great, so I figured I would mention it.
I'm running one like that but it's sandborn also have it ran to my 80 gallon tank for more air vol. poor little compressor lol use the crap out of it .
My Dad gave me one of these. Got it when they first came out so paint is all faded, but it still runs perfect. Have you used a HVLP gun on yours? I plan on getting into learning how to paint cars and was wondering if i'd need to get another compressor. Or if this will work fine for now. Thanks!
I have this same compressor and I've painted two cars with it. You will definitely want an in-line water trap and a pressure regulator at the gun. As long as you keep the pressure low (with an HVLP gun, you want to) you'll have no problems painting with it.
I've had the 26 gallon version of this compressor for many years, and it's used regularly, but not heavily. It currently takes about 04:40 to fully pressurized from empty and sounds very hot when it finishes charging. Can anyone else who owns this compressor comment on how long it takes theirs to pressurize to help me judge if mine is worn out? (Don't forget to say how many gallons your unit is). Thanks!
There are two capacitors on the opposite the piston side of the motor behind a plastic casing. One is a start capacitor one is a run capacitor. Sounds like the start capacitor has gone bad. I would assume GE made the motor on your compressor just like mine. You can find out by the sticker label on the motor. When Sears made these compressors the motors were all made proprietary to these units. And since Sears is pretty much out of business you could no longer buy parts for these directly from Sears. you need to find out what the start capacitor is and cross reference it with another one and replace it. I can't help you with the start capacitor, as I just replaced my run capacitor. If it turns out to be the run capacitor, you need to make sure it is a 45f rating and the only one I found that fits it, and I did a lot of research, is the JARD 12723. I ordered it from supplyhouse.com
@@tonykilgore8030 Hi TONY I have the same problem with the compressor but my Capacitor has three wires coming out of it and the capacitor that I got from Granger has four plugs is there anyway you could assist on how the wiring goes
@@geraldocuervo6640 I'm not sure of the capacitor you got from Grainger, but the capacitor that I purchased and referenced, basically has only two posts, with each post having 4 connections in a square arrangement. The old capacitor, like I said, were made proprietary for the compressor. The old capacitor only had three single connections on it ( 2 on one side and 1 on the other side). I cut the old capacitor to look at a cross section. The two connections that were on the old capacitor needs to be on the same side of the new capacitor, even if it's on the same post that's connected to two of the four connections on the square arrangement of that post; the one wire connection needs to go on the other side of the capacitor.
mine did that too. I found the run and start capacitors were leaking . sears parts direct online didnt have them. They maybe discontinued so i called grainger for the replacement capacitors
Daniel you would need to look at the I.D. plate and you can get all the information you need if you have the exact one then I’ll post the information for you later
Christopher Miller these compressors are pretty much maintenance free all you have to do is drain it from the bottom drain plug to get all that water out of it I don’t keep mine charged I usually drain it after each use 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼✌🏼
You got one from a pawn shop too, eh? That's the best way to buy one if you don't want to spend a lot or won't be using it much. I just brought a horizontal version of this one. I immediately had to replace the drain valve and hose coupler. Gave it a quick wipe down and it works great now. Only other maintenance you really have with these oilless models is check the air filter once in a while. Maybe check the tank for rust.
Check on Craftsman’s website I actually replaced the power cord on mine I went to the Sears repair center and I had them order it for me they might be able to help you out with that 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼✌🏼
@@AmirAbdullah ah man that sucks if I have to fix or replace any parts on mine and I can’t find parts for it anymore then I would have to buy a new one and throw the old one away
